Die backing out of press

[CShooter92]

I'm sure this is a simple question but I've never had this issue before in 5 years of reloading.

Last night I went to resize some 6.5 Creedmoor brass for the first time using my Redding Type S die. I set it up just like the instructions said to. Lowered it down to the press, screwed the lock ring down and tightened the set screw. I then ran a couple cases through without any issue. On the 4th or 5th one, I noticed the die was a little loose in the press and I gave it about 1/8 to 1/4 turn back into the press. the lock ring was still snug on the die itself.

Any reason this would be happening? I don't really want to have to screw the die down to the lock ring for every single round.

 

[spife7980]

Its loosening because its not tight. Torque it a bit tighter and it wont loosen. Obvious answer is obvious

 

[natdscott]

Yep!

 

[Sheldon N]

Buy yourself some of those hornady split lock rings. They are $3 each and clamp onto the die rather than using a set screw. Clamp them on the die first, then spin the die on until it bottoms out on the lock ring at the right height. If you tighten them when they are on the press and fully screwed down they won't unscrew by hand unless you release the clamp. Make adjustments by backing the die loose, release the clamp, move the clamp using a reference point on the die, then lock it down and spin it tight again.

Side note... buy yourself a set of hornady headspace gauges so you know how much you are bumping the shoulder on your brass.

 

[supercorndogs]

I have them on all my die sets. ^^^^^^^^ Most are not Hornady dies.

 

[Xander3Zero]

^^^ Forster also makes split-lock rings for dies.

 

[lash]

Yup, yup, yup. Split lock rings. Then tighten the lock ring itself down to the plate of the press. It's that friction that keeps it from backing off. Once it is set to give you the proper head-space, all that you have to do is use a wrench to remove the die by backing it off the tight seat and spinning the die out by hand. Next time that you want to size brass, as long as its the same brass and the same rifle, you just spin the die on by hand and tighten it down using the same wrench. Viola! you are ready to go and should not have to adjust the die to get the same head-spacing as before.

 

[CShooter92]

I think I figured out my issue. Split lock rings would have solved the problem too.

I found that the little lead bead under the set screw in my redding die was deformed and therefore not actually turning out and tightening against the die threads when the set screw was turned. Pulled the lead out, and just lightly tightened the set screw and everything worked great.

Not even sure why they put the lead in there, none of my other die sets have it and have worked fine for years.

 

[lash]

The lead bead is actually there in order to deform as you tighten it properly and lock the ring on the thread without damaging the die threads. If it gets turned a bit after being used once or twice it just needs to be tightened with enough force to re-deform the lead to the new position on the threads. When this becomes an issue and you start tightening the steel set screw directly onto the die threads, you risk deforming the die threads. That's why we use split lock rings.

 

[flyer]

It's not the set screw, the lock ring has to be tight against the press or press bushing to keep the die from backing out.

That can be from installing the die and then tightening the lock ring against the press or clamping the lock ring on the die and then installing it in the press and tightening against the press.

I'm set up with Hornady Lock-n-load bushings and use plain Lee lock rings. It's a little more expensive than just lock rings but the 1/4 turn install and locked in settings are nice.

 

[Fig]

What lash said. It's a bad design, and if you got rid of the lead nose you're probably messing the threads up now.
Not worth it for a $3 split ring that doesn't mess up the threads and holds it where you want it.

 

[Fig]

COAX they slide in...

 

[flyer]

If you tighten a split ring, it's going to get a bit helical. I wonder if that tweaks things in a Co-ax?

 

[natdscott]

COAX they slide in...

I even took out the ball bearing and spring. It's not particularly important that it is there, and I like knowing that it is not influencing my die position at all.

 

[natdscott]

If you tighten a split ring, it's going to get a bit helical. I wonder if that tweaks things in a Co-ax?

Sure don't. At least not by my tooling.

I DO always index mine the same way in the press...

 

[Fig]

Sure don't. At least not by my tooling.

I DO always index mine the same way in the press...

I do too, but only when I'm adjusting. Otherwise I don't think it matters either. It is "floating"...so it tends to float.