• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Differences in semi auto and bolt rifle loading

SleepDoc

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 14, 2017
89
5
Indianapolis, IN
I have never loaded for semiauto before but just got a 220 thunderbolt barrel from keystone accuracy and whenever I get around to putting it all together I will need to load some ammo for it. My bolt gun process has been anneal, full length size with honed die 2 thousandths, use turning mandrel to set neck tension, trim/chamfer/debur with Giraud, prime, charge, seat bullet. My question is more to do with sizing and mandrel choice. Do semiauto require more neck tension or will the turning mandrel be sufficient? I think K&M will make a custom mandrel that I could go smaller with to get more tension. Anything else I need to consider that is different for semiauto loading? As a side note, if anybody shoots the thunderbolt, what size bushing are you using for the redding dies from keystone?
 
More shoulder bump (2-3 thou), more neck tension (3 thou), and make sure it fits in the mag. Crimping is something you may want to consider.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gtscotty
The normal process you described that you allready do should suffice and as Brandon allready stated you may have to run a bit more neck tension to avoid the bullets sliding forward when charged or being cycled.

It might be worth a test before you buy a new mandrel to set up an inert test round, measure the COAL or BTO on it and chamber it from mag several times. As in lock the bolt/carrier back insert magazine with test round and release the bolt to chamber, do that a couple of times and then compare your COAL to before checking for variation.

An adjustable gas system is nice to have also as it gives you more flexibility, the only other major concern between an AR and bolt rifles in regards to reloading is the pressure levels you load your ammo to. An AR just doesn't tolerate as well some of the higher end loads that a bolt action will so you may end up seeing pressure signs at lower charge weights just pay attention to those and adjust accordingly.
 
The normal process you described that you allready do should suffice and as Brandon allready stated you may have to run a bit more neck tension to avoid the bullets sliding forward when charged or being cycled.

It might be worth a test before you buy a new mandrel to set up an inert test round, measure the COAL or BTO on it and chamber it from mag several times. As in lock the bolt/carrier back insert magazine with test round and release the bolt to chamber, do that a couple of times and then compare your COAL to before checking for variation.

An adjustable gas system is nice to have also as it gives you more flexibility, the only other major concern between an AR and bolt rifles in regards to reloading is the pressure levels you load your ammo to. An AR just doesn't tolerate as well some of the higher end loads that a bolt action will so you may end up seeing pressure signs at lower charge weights just pay attention to those and adjust accordingly.

That seems like a good idea to test what I already have first before spending more money on a mandrel may not need.
 
Beyond case sizing and pressure as mentioned above, the burn rate of the powder you use can affect reliability. This is more of a concern in large frame gas operated rifles.

"Slow for caliber" powders may give you fits unless you can tune the gas system way down. I am not sue if it is the generally heavier charge weights or the timing, or how much barrel they need to burn, or all of the above.

This may be why the 6.5 caliber gas rifles mostly have longer gas systems; the charge weights aren't heavy but the powders used are pretty slow-burning.