Dillon 550 only- Tips, Tricks, Process Q&A thread .

[BuildingConceptsllc]

This thread is all about setting up your 550, bench for 550, or loading room for 550, and any tricks or tips you've learned along the way. I know there's a lot of 550 guys on here, and I would appreciate any info you guys can bestow upon me.

So here's my first Q:

How would you guys set it up if you were doing a new reloading room with about 13 of 14 ( L shaped) , linear feet available for bench, and the following presses to put there.

7 - turret press (2 turrets total = 14 die locations)
Mec- single
Dillon 550c

And what operations would you do on which? I'm kind of struggling to figure out how best to set it up and I've never run a progressive press before.

Also, any aftermarket items or whatnot that are helpful are welcome suggestions as well.

 

[kriller134]

I deprime/size on a single stage. Prime with a cps and do the loading on the 550. Stage 1 mandrel, stage 2 powder drop , stage 3 seat, stage 4 is empty.


Turbo bearing for for sure, UFO light, and A419 funnel are a must. I’m using both Whidden and armonov floating tools heads. Whidden is more convenient for taking on and off, but I’m too lazy to measure if either one makes a difference.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I moved to a flush mount quick change plate from inline fab on this last house move. I like it so far.

It would be nice to keep a single stage set up for decapping, if just to keep some of the crap off the 550, and the 550 spent primer catcher box thingee can be sticky/finnicky.

I like the UFO light ring more than the singles that you have to pop in the toolhead. Better light, less faff. I've moved on from the clamp in toolheads. I have a couple whidden floating ones, but I honestly dont see a difference from the non-floated. YMMV.

 

[kriller134]

Also all inline fab gear is a must IMO. Quick change mount, roller handle, and bin system are super nice. I also got a bullet try on eBay for 20 bucks, but if you have a 3D printer I’m sure you can make one.

 

[6.5SH]

Another vote for the UFO light from me. Spare toolheads, even plain Dillon ones are always handy.
The inline fabrication mounts are great. One tip for the finished round chute is put a wide rubber band across the front over the indent for the handle. Keeps top heavy stubby rounds like 6.5 Grendel or other BR/PPC from falling out of the chute onto the ground.

The primer catch cup can stand to be a bit taller, I taped a cut up primer box sleeve around it to reduce spillage when I still used it.
I've since replaced it with a plastic funnel type with vinyl hose to a plastic bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183324011181
I've also seen 3d printed ones that are similar.
The primer catch chute has a small cotter pin that is easily deformed and can make the chute hang up. I cut a section of paper clip and bent the ends once assembled to make that more reliable.

The JW Systems primer track bearing and Hit Factor shell plate bearing kit are also nice to have.

The Uniquetek primer track bearing is fine, but I like the extra guidance from the roller bearing on the JW.

Swapping the primer system sizes out is an annoyance and why many people end up with two presses. It isn't difficult but does require a feel for it and lining up multiple things so it doesn't bind or hang up. The biggest piece of advice is don't use gorilla strength when tightening the two bottom bolts or you will cause binding.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Lots of good info. I am not really sure how I will set up but I I think the dillon will mainly be for 223. I am going to try and case feed it at some point and use TAC amd throw with the press powder bar but I was hoping to find a good accurate way to do that. I may end up having to throw off press though. Probably will deprime on the mech by itself and then keep my sizing set up on the turret but that whole thing is what I'm struggled with.

Doesn't seem like trying to load 6cm and 6.5cm on the dillon is worthwhile but I thought I might set up tool heads for each to feed cases and size it the dillon, then load as usual with my IP trickler and AT for precision 6cm and 6.5cm.

I will probably end up with a CPS to prime on but I have 3 FA hand primers so I don't have to switch anything around and I get pretty consistent results setting those and leaving them set. I also like that I can watch kids or TV and prime with them but the CPS looks pretty great.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

So definitely

-UFO light
-Turbo bearing kit
-Definitely quick change plate for all presses and will probably get a few more for a vise and something else
-JW Roller bearing for primer

After marker Powder bar ???

I saw some primer catcher set ups and this different shell catcher thing too that looked nice and would so what you guys have done to yours already and keep the top heavy rounds from falling over or out

 

[6.5SH]

Lots of good info. I am not really sure how I will set up but I I think the dillon will mainly be for 223. I am going to try and case feed it at some point and use TAC amd throw with the press powder bar but I was hoping to find a good accurate way to do that. I may end up having to throw off press though. Probably will deprime on the mech by itself and then keep my sizing set up on the turret but that whole thing is what I'm struggled with.

Doesn't seem like trying to load 6cm and 6.5cm on the dillon is worthwhile but I thought I might set up tool heads for each to feed cases and size it the dillon, then load as usual with my IP trickler and AT for precision 6cm and 6.5cm.

I will probably end up with a CPS to prime on but I have 3 FA hand primers so I don't have to switch anything around and I get pretty consistent results setting those and leaving them set. I also like that I can watch kids or TV and prime with them but the CPS looks pretty great.

For .223 and the Dillon powder measure this is a worthwhile upgrade:

DAA .223 Fast-Flow Powder Funnel

The DAA .223 Fast-Flow Funnel is designed to improve powder-flow consistency and greatly reduce bridging of stick or flake powders often used in these calibers. Designed in collaboration with Aerospace Systems Engineer Andrew Murrell, CSEP, this funnel will not fail to enhance yo...

www.doublealpha.biz

 

[TylerN]

I only have 6' linear space to work with and here's how I setup my 550. Armanov heads; I haven't measured if they make better ammo but the concept is sound. Inline Fab stuff; mid-height quick change mount, roller handle, bin mount & chute, bin barriers, locating pin tabs.

I don't try to change the primer system between small and large primers, I keep it setup only with SRP's. Trying to change between primers for different cartridges is too impractical with the Dillon primer system.

Other than that for setup my Autotrickler is off to the left so I can take a charge out, drop it in the 550, place a bullet and replace the cup in the trickler.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Also: what kind of tool head stand do you guys use? There's a few types out there

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Also: what kind of tool head stand do you guys use? There's a few types out there

Kinetic arc 5 place on a shelf for the ones I use the most. Dillon or the 3d printed ones are fine too. All depends on how your storage is set up.

Anything I’m not using now now is wrapped in tech paper and kept in a box to save shelf space.

 

[6.5SH]

As @TheOfficeT-Rex mentioned I also don't see the need on the clamping toolheads. Some play is by design, same as the various "floating" methods for the dies.
I do think it feels a bit excessive though. My "fix" that I've used for over 30 years is to put some pin striping tape on the underside of the toolhead to raise the top surface closer to the top of the slot in the press.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I only have 6' linear space to work with and here's how I setup my 550. Armanov heads; I haven't measured if they make better ammo but the concept is sound. Inline Fab stuff; mid-height quick change mount, roller handle, bin mount & chute, bin barriers, locating pin tabs.

I don't try to change the primer system between small and large primers, I keep it setup only with SRP's. Trying to change between primers for different cartridges is too impractical with the Dillon primer system.

Other than that for setup my Autotrickler is off to the left so I can take a charge out, drop it in the 550, place a bullet and replace the cup in the trickler.

View attachment 8219696

That's how I may end up doing it. Guess I will have to try out the powder bar and see if it's consistent enough but I'm assuming it isn't so I will likely need some set up that allows me to do the same to throw the charge off press with my AT/IP. I think I will end up with each caliber set up for sizing on a took head then tool heads to load each one and just prime off press accept for 223, though 6cm is also srp for me so maybe that's a possibility to feed those cases and size em then swap heads and load em?

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

The powder bar is decent, powder dependent. Pretty good with ball or flake powders, just add a return spring or rubber band. Polishing helps but I didnt go crazy. I have an extra baffle, but didn’t seem to make much difference.

For rifle, I do a sizing pass with sizer(1) and mandrel(3). Then throw powder with the IP and funnel off press, and slip it into a seater on station 3. I’ve tried the powder thru die and dumping charges in station 2 before seating in 3, but I dumped a couple with the case down and made a mess so entirely off press minimizes the f ups.

I meant to get one of those primer slide plates a while ago, but honestly I’ve never had an issue and primer changeover isn’t that bad. Mine runs smoothly with a just a little dry lube. Loading the primer tubes sucks but I got a DAA vibrating filler for that.

I did skim level my shell plates - couple quick passes with medium grit sandpaper until they sit flat on a granite plate. Tuning the center bolt tension is critical to get good priming and also have the plate turn smoothly. It’s a little easier if you flatten the shell plates and have the roller bearing. If you’re not priming you can just run it loosy goosy.

 

[kriller134]

Lots of good info. I am not really sure how I will set up but I I think the dillon will mainly be for 223. I am going to try and case feed it at some point and use TAC amd throw with the press powder bar but I was hoping to find a good accurate way to do that. I may end up having to throw off press though. Probably will deprime on the mech by itself and then keep my sizing set up on the turret but that whole thing is what I'm struggled with.

Doesn't seem like trying to load 6cm and 6.5cm on the dillon is worthwhile but I thought I might set up tool heads for each to feed cases and size it the dillon, then load as usual with my IP trickler and AT for precision 6cm and 6.5cm.

I will probably end up with a CPS to prime on but I have 3 FA hand primers so I don't have to switch anything around and I get pretty consistent results setting those and leaving them set. I also like that I can watch kids or TV and prime with them but the CPS looks pretty great.

Not sure how accurate you’re trying to get, but I’m making really good ammo for 6 BRA and 6.5 creed.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

The powder bar is decent, powder dependent. Pretty good with ball or flake powders, just add a return spring or rubber band. Polishing helps but I didnt go crazy. I have an extra baffle, but didn’t seem to make much difference.

For rifle, I do a sizing pass with sizer(1) and mandrel(3). Then throw powder with the IP and funnel off press, and slip it into a seater on station 3. I’ve tried the powder thru die and dumping charges in station 2 before seating in 3, but I dumped a couple with the case down and made a mess so entirely off press minimizes the f ups.

I meant to get one of those primer slide plates a while ago, but honestly I’ve never had an issue and primer changeover isn’t that bad. Mine runs smoothly with a just a little dry lube. Loading the primer tubes sucks but I got a DAA vibrating filler for that.

I did skim level my shell plates - couple quick passes with medium grit sandpaper until they sit flat on a granite plate. Tuning the center bolt tension is critical to get good priming and also have the plate turn smoothly. It’s a little easier if you flatten the shell plates and have the roller bearing. If you’re not priming you can just run it loosy goosy.

So you are actually filling the case off press then slipping it into 3 spot to seat then. I will probably try to drop powder into a powder die from my AT/IP but if it's too much trouble I will just do it my normal single stage way and seat on a single. If the priming works out and the powder bar is consistent enough with TAC I can hopefully load 223 all on the dillon with a bushing die and no mandrel. Just clean and aneal with the primer in and see if I can get it to rock and roll with a case feeder. If not then I guess I will just divide the process up.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Not sure how accurate you’re trying to get, but I’m making really good ammo for 6 BRA and 6.5 creed.

If I can throw powder off press and use a powder die I think I could make good ammo in 6cm and 6.5cm on it too.

How are you doing it with those rounds?

 

[rmfield]

I have been reloading precision rifle ammo on my 550s for years with Armanov toolheads and get great results (currently .5.56/.223, 6GT and .260 Rem). I prep brass on a single stage and I weight every charge with a V4 Autotrickler. I use the 1st station with a decapper to make sure the primer hole is clear of tumbling media and then to seat primers. The 4th stage doesn't see much use except with certain pistol ammo.

The single best accessory I've found for a 550 is a second 550 so I don't have to change primer sizes.

I was unaware of the UFO lights, so thanks to those above that mentioned them. I just ordered 2 sets.

 

[kriller134]

If I can throw powder off press and use a powder die I think I could make good ammo in 6cm and 6.5cm on it too.

How are you doing it with those rounds?

I’m throwing the powder off press with a ATIP setup. Using the A419 funnel. Look at my picture above. That’s setup for 6.5 creed. You’ll need the dillon powder through die and the dillon powder funnel that’s specific for the caliber you’re loading.

 

[kriller134]

Here’s a good video explaining how to load. I did a couple things differently, but the gist is there.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I’m throwing the powder off press with a ATIP setup. Using the A419 funnel. Look at my picture above. That’s setup for 6.5 creed. You’ll need the dillon powder through die and the dillon powder funnel that’s specific for the caliber you’re loading.

Oh ok. So, what kind of seating die is that? I watched that video earlier today but will watch it again. The dies and the order of them is my main struggle with what to do where and in what order. Is that a powder check die you have in your picture ?

 

[kriller134]

Oh ok. So, what kind of seating die is that? I watched that video earlier today but will watch it again. The dies and the order of them is my main struggle with what to do where and in what order. Is that a powder check die you have in your picture ?

That seating die is a forester micrometer. I also have a couple of tool heads with Whidden seating does. I don’t have a powder check die. Station 1- mandrel, station 2- powder through die/charge, station 3- seating, station 4- empty.

 

[Hoser]

I have tried a couple different light setups for my 550s. The Double Alpha is the best. It doesent block your view into the case like the Starlight does.

I use the DA in addition to the UFO lights.

DAA Toolhead LED Lighting PCB - Dillon 550

Enjoy a perfectly lit shell-plate as you reload on your Dillon RL550 with our DAA Toolhead LED Lights. Make your reloading easier and less strenuous on the eyes, while avoiding mistakes in your reloading process.The DAA ToolHead LED lighting PCB is made of a high quality Aluminum PCB boar...

www.doublealpha.biz

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I haven't seen anyone mention the "Delux quick change assembly " so you can change calibers and just change it all out and it's supposed to make it easier. Any thoughts on this?

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I have tried a couple different light setups for my 550s. The Double Alpha is the best. It doesent block your view into the case like the Starlight does.

I use the DA in addition to the UFO lights.

DAA Toolhead LED Lighting PCB - Dillon 550

Enjoy a perfectly lit shell-plate as you reload on your Dillon RL550 with our DAA Toolhead LED Lights. Make your reloading easier and less strenuous on the eyes, while avoiding mistakes in your reloading process.The DAA ToolHead LED lighting PCB is made of a high quality Aluminum PCB boar...

www.doublealpha.biz

Does this go on the tool head itself? Do you need one for each tool head ?

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I haven't seen anyone mention the "Delux quick change assembly " so you can change calibers and just change it all out and it's supposed to make it easier. Any thoughts on this?

I’m not seeing any deluxe kits - do you mean the kit from Dillon with an extra powder throw?

Does this go on the tool head itself? Do you need one for each tool head ?

The DAA one needs one light per tool head. The UFO mounts to the press body so you need one light per press. I’ve never turned on the UFO and thought that I needed more light.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I’m not seeing any deluxe kits - do you mean the kit from Dillon with an extra powder throw?



The DAA one needs one light per tool head. The UFO mounts to the press body so you need one light per press. I’ve never turned on the UFO and thought that I needed more light.

Yeah, it has the extra powder hopper and bar ect... this is it

Dillon RL550C Deluxe Quick Change Assembly

With a quick change assembly and a caliber conversion kit (sold separately), you can convert in less than a minute. Complete with: Toolhead, Powder Measure, Powder Die, Toolhead Stand.

www.doublealpha.biz

 

[6.5SH]

I haven't seen anyone mention the "Delux quick change assembly " so you can change calibers and just change it all out and it's supposed to make it easier. Any thoughts on this?

If you are going to use the Dillon powder measures on multiple cartridges it can save a few dollars. I have three Dillon measures with small, large and magnum powder bars installed.

People with more money than I will dedicate one per cartridge so they don't have to readjust the measure. So there can be a time saving factor involved as well.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Yeah, it has the extra powder hopper and bar ect... this is it

Dillon RL550C Deluxe Quick Change Assembly

With a quick change assembly and a caliber conversion kit (sold separately), you can convert in less than a minute. Complete with: Toolhead, Powder Measure, Powder Die, Toolhead Stand.

www.doublealpha.biz

Gotchya. Dillon just calls those 'quick change' kits.

You'd still need a shellholder and buttons of a caliber conversion kit. So if you want to use the dillon throwers and leave them set for one caliber, like for pistol, it's got most of what you need.

It's all about your workflow - If you're rocking a set charge on the powder throw, it saves time. The second you need to adjust charge weight, or if you're dropping from an AT/chargemaster/etc you really don't need the second thrower. I do have a quick disconnect from entirely crimson on my thrower, but otherwise it's two screws so it's not that big a deal.

A caliber change is still pull the old toolhead, swap the shellholder and buttons, swap primer feed as required, new toolhead, install failsafe rod, and go. I keep the allen keys on a magnet bar and in the order I need them so to swap everything takes all of 5 minutes. It takes double that to fiddle with the powder measure to get the throw you want if it's not already set up - it's not hard it's just some trial and error.

 

[B y r o n]

One of the things I did on my last iteration of a reloading bench was to set it up so presses could be loaded in any position or left off with flat space. For my 550 I decided the strong mount was the way to go, to bring things closer to eye level. The 550 will load ammo good enough for the US Palma Team so it will handle your 223 loading needs and much more. Single stage presses be it RCBS or Forester/Bonanza have their uses and can load about anything just slower than a progressive. Part of it boils down to how much case prep you want to do or do you just want to take fired cases and reload them. This is more likely with pistol than rifle cases. That is not to say it can't be done with rifle cases, it just depends on the level of reload you are looking for.

The thing about reloading is it gives you freedom/options that buying factory ammo just doesn't offer. Do your research and simply decide what option or possible upgrade suits you best. Realize that sometimes we make mistakes but that is how we learn and grow.

Good luck on building your next setupI!

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Gotchya. Dillon just calls those 'quick change' kits.

You'd still need a shellholder and buttons of a caliber conversion kit. So if you want to use the dillon throwers and leave them set for one caliber, like for pistol, it's got most of what you need.

It's all about your workflow - If you're rocking a set charge on the powder throw, it saves time. The second you need to adjust charge weight, or if you're dropping from an AT/chargemaster/etc you really don't need the second thrower. I do have a quick disconnect from entirely crimson on my thrower, but otherwise it's two screws so it's not that big a deal.

A caliber change is still pull the old toolhead, swap the shellholder and buttons, swap primer feed as required, new toolhead, install failsafe rod, and go. I keep the allen keys on a magnet bar and in the order I need them so to swap everything takes all of 5 minutes. It takes double that to fiddle with the powder measure to get the throw you want if it's not already set up - it's not hard it's just some trial and error.

Ok, thank you for that info. That's more along the lines of what I'm unsure about so that's helpful. I will very likely only use the powder bar for 223 and leave that set up then just be changing tool heads for bigger rifle caliber stuff. I will probably also just have 2 tool heads per caliber for the bigger rifle stuff. One for sizing and one for loading. That would speed up my loading A TON but still allow me to throw powder with my AT/IP set up as I have been doing. Then I can likely load 223 all dillon and crank out some rounds using the powder bar and TAC.

I think I have a good list of stuff to get to set it all up the way I want to at this point. If I end up liking the bigger rifle stuff on the dillon I will probably just get another one so I can leave one set up for 223 but that's down the road.

The only thing left now is what dies to use on thr dillon. I have mostly redding dies on my other presses but I know there's some dies that cause some issues on the dillon with clearance but so long as I can use my redding dies on the dillon, I could then use any other dies on my regular presses if they didn't work for whatever reason on the dillon, though it looks like most of them will he fine.

I appreciate all the input from everyone. I am trying to set up my new space and not wish I'd done this or that different (like I did a few times on my old bench), and not having used the dillon yet I'm just a little unsure about it. All quick change mounts should help with that considerably .

 

[kriller134]

One thing to note, if you’re only using one powder drop from dillon for multiple cartridges, check out the uniquetek micrometer powder bar upgrade. It’s fast and accurate if you take the time to make use of their excel spreadsheet.

 

[SJ77]

Great thread.

I have very limited space (a bench on a tool chest in the study of an apartment) and only use the 550 for PRS and hunting ammo. My process is:

Anneal straight off the range. If the brass is mangy, I'll tumble it with the primers in. I used to de-prime first, but found no difference in accuracy or consistency (single digit ES's on 10 shot groups).

Cases then go on the 550. Station 1 De-prime. Station 2 Wilson full length die with bushing. Station 3 Expander Mandrel to set neck tension.

Rounds come off the press. Henderson to trim, chamfer de-burr. Auto-trickler to fill with powder.

Back on the press. Forster micrometer seating die.

I use the Armanov heads and have a 550 for LR and SR primers.

I also use inline dies and an arbor press for seating depth during load development.

Runout with this setup is as low as I get using inline dies. Neck tension is also as consistent as I was getting when I spent hours messing around with necks.

I load this way for .223, .223AI, 6.5 CM, 30-06 and 300 PRC. Occasionally I'll skip seating on the 550 and just use the Arbor press. Brass is ADI for .223, Alpha or Lapua.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Great thread.

I have very limited space (a bench on a tool chest in the study of an apartment) and only use the 550 for PRS and hunting ammo. My process is:

Anneal straight off the range. If the brass is mangy, I'll tumble it with the primers in. I used to de-prime first, but found no difference in accuracy or consistency (single digit ES's on 10 shot groups).

Cases then go on the 550. Station 1 De-prime. Station 2 Wilson full length die with bushing. Station 3 Expander Mandrel to set neck tension.

Rounds come off the press. Henderson to trim, chamfer de-burr. Auto-trickler to fill with powder.

Back on the press. Forster micrometer seating die.

I use the Armanov heads and have a 550 for LR and SR primers.

I also use inline dies and an arbor press for seating depth during load development.

Runout with this setup is as low as I get using inline dies. Neck tension is also as consistent as I was getting when I spent hours messing around with necks.

I load this way for .223, .223AI, 6.5 CM, 30-06 and 300 PRC. Occasionally I'll skip seating on the 550 and just use the Arbor press. Brass is ADI for .223, Alpha or Lapua.

This is mainly what I was originally asking and what varies so much in how and what guys do with the dillon 550.

I will likely do something similar and probably just seat on my turret press for the bigger caliber rifle until I get the hang of the dillon.


What powder dies to you guys use for the 308 base cases that work with the 419 funnel???

 

[kriller134]

Dillon powder die

Dillon powder funnel choose associated caliber

A419 funnel head pick dillon head

A419 tube

A419 funnel

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Dillon powder die

Dillon powder funnel choose associated caliber

A419 funnel head pick dillon head

A419 tube

A419 funnel

Awesome. I honestly just couldn't figure out if that was a different tip for my 419 funnel or what. Thank you

 

[kriller134]

Awesome. I honestly just couldn't figure out if that was a different tip for my 419 funnel or what. Thank you

No worries. You’ll be on your way making great ammo on the 550 in no time. Lots of good info in this thread.

 

[oldnewguy]

I've been curious about the floating toolhead/die, but I've only loaded pistol on my 550. I'm going to order a couple of the Armanov toolheads and try some rifle rounds.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I've been curious about the floating toolhead/die, but I've only loaded pistol on my 550. I'm going to order a couple of the Armanov toolheads and try some rifle rounds.

Yeah that's what I'm going to try first I think. The video above shows that but not really in detail. It doesn't seem like it would be any different than setting a sizing die any other time size it's not able to turn but I haven't done that yet and won't for a while so let us know how that goes for you if you would

 

[parshal]

I have a 550 that I use for all my match ammo in 6.5 Creed and Dasher. I 3d printed a funnel that sits on top of the powder die and drop powder by hand off the FX120. My first die sizes/deprimes, second is mandrel, third is powder and fourth is seating.

Sometimes I'll decap on the Zero and prime with the CPS. I'll then remove the decap pin on the Dillon and load. I've seen zero difference on target between CPS primed cases and the Dillon. The only issue I've seen on the Dillon is I'll have a flipped primer in a loaded case.

I have four flush mount Inline Fab plates on my bench. One has the Dillon and another the Zero. The other two will have the CPS or Henderson or nothing.

I also have the Dillon toolhead holders since I have many, many feet of their rail system on the wall.

I modified the Dillon toolheads with a kit to hold them tight in the Dillon and then I drilled holes in the toolhead/die ring and use pins like the Whidden toolheads. I can't say that did anything for improving my loads over just the straight Dillon floating toolhead. I simply spent a lot of time doing it and probably wouldn't do it again. I'd just run the Dillon stock in regard to toolheads.

I have had the bolt holding the turret come loose a couple times. Last time I blue loctited it.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I have a 550 that I use for all my match ammo in 6.5 Creed and Dasher. I 3d printed a funnel that sits on top of the powder die and drop powder by hand off the FX120. My first die sizes/deprimes, second is mandrel, third is powder and fourth is seating.

Sometimes I'll decap on the Zero and prime with the CPS. I'll then remove the decap pin on the Dillon and load. I've seen zero difference on target between CPS primed cases and the Dillon. The only issue I've seen on the Dillon is I'll have a flipped primer in a loaded case.

I have four flush mount Inline Fab plates on my bench. One has the Dillon and another the Zero. The other two will have the CPS or Henderson or nothing.

I also have the Dillon toolhead holders since I have many, many feet of their rail system on the wall.

I modified the Dillon toolheads with a kit to hold them tight in the Dillon and then I drilled holes in the toolhead/die ring and use pins like the Whidden toolheads. I can't say that did anything for improving my loads over just the straight Dillon floating toolhead. I simply spent a lot of time doing it and probably wouldn't do it again. I'd just run the Dillon stock in regard to toolheads.

I have had the bolt holding the turret come loose a couple times. Last time I blue loctited it.

That's solid info. What do you use to fill your primer tubes?

 

[parshal]

I bought the Dillon primer tube filler. Very expensive but works well.

 

[cheng1962]

Ok, thank you for that info. That's more along the lines of what I'm unsure about so that's helpful. I will very likely only use the powder bar for 223 and leave that set up then just be changing tool heads for bigger rifle caliber stuff. I will probably also just have 2 tool heads per caliber for the bigger rifle stuff. One for sizing and one for loading. That would speed up my loading A TON but still allow me to throw powder with my AT/IP set up as I have been doing. Then I can likely load 223 all dillon and crank out some rounds using the powder bar and TAC.

I think I have a good list of stuff to get to set it all up the way I want to at this point. If I end up liking the bigger rifle stuff on the dillon I will probably just get another one so I can leave one set up for 223 but that's down the road.

The only thing left now is what dies to use on thr dillon. I have mostly redding dies on my other presses but I know there's some dies that cause some issues on the dillon with clearance but so long as I can use my redding dies on the dillon, I could then use any other dies on my regular presses if they didn't work for whatever reason on the dillon, though it looks like most of them will he fine.

I appreciate all the input from everyone. I am trying to set up my new space and not wish I'd done this or that different (like I did a few times on my old bench), and not having used the dillon yet I'm just a little unsure about it. All quick change mounts should help with that considerably .

Hello, I load all my ammo on 550s.
I have 2, one for large/small rifle primers.
I have one toolhead solely for decapping using the Lee decapper.
For rifle ammo I have the Forster sizing die with the Forster micrometer seating die.
I have used Lee and Redding dies. They all work, but that depends on you.
I have the JW Systems primer feed bar on both presses. I agree with the comments about the primer drop chute, I cut a paper clip sized to replace the original wire.
For the spent primers, I cut a square plastic reagent bottle(I am a lab tech) and fitted it to the spent primer holder. I cut the plastic bottle so it was a bit closer to the spent prime chute. No more primers on the floor.
Based on the comments, I will order the kms2 light system.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Hello, I load all my ammo on 550s.
I have 2, one for large/small rifle primers.
I have one toolhead solely for decapping using the Lee decapper.
For rifle ammo I have the Forster sizing die with the Forster micrometer seating die.
I have used Lee and Redding dies. They all work, but that depends on you.
I have the JW Systems primer feed bar on both presses. I agree with the comments about the primer drop chute, I cut a paper clip sized to replace the original wire.
For the spent primers, I cut a square plastic reagent bottle(I am a lab tech) and fitted it to the spent primer holder. I cut the plastic bottle so it was a bit closer to the spent prime chute. No more primers on the floor.
Based on the comments, I will order the kms2 light system.

The Forrester seems to be a very common die used on the dillon. I know they are popular in general and I think there was some test done by someone who found the Forrester die to have the least run out but m not sure what that consisted of or anything. I have mostly redding but I'm going to look at the Forrester based on the number of guys who use it ITT.

 

[03machstock]

Good thread, here’s my set up for precision .223. I also load for 4 pistol cartridges that I quick change to with a powder funnel throw bar set up.

1. I anneal on an annealeeze.
2. I dry tumble in either walnut or corn cob.
3. I lube the brass with the lanolin/alcohol spray.
4. Full length resize/ deprime on first stage in Redding full length sizing die with neck bushings. However, I just keep feeding them in and spinning the turret to let them land in the loaded cartridge tray so I’m not putting in and taking out every piece, just putting them in.
5. I trim/chamfer/deburr on a giraud case trimmer.
6. I put the cases in my ultrasonic cleaner out in the shop to take the lube off them. Still haven’t found the recipe for solution I like, might try boretech next, but I only really care about getting the lube off.
7. I blow the cases out with compressed air, and I’ll throw them in the oven at 150 for a few minutes if I want to load right away, but just let them dry normally if not.
8. I prime on station 1.
9. spin to station 2 and load charges via RCBS chargemaster through area 419 funnel.
10. spin to station 3 to seat on Redding micrometer seating die.
I just keep the turret full when loading known charges, and just keep advancing. Just have to be mindful to not size brass which is easy as long as you get used to it.

Added the primer bearing plate thing to mine and haven’t had issues with the priming arm jamming up since. I’ll have to grab the ufo light and turbo bearing as mentioned in this thread!
Excuse the mess on the bench.
The bench was my great grandfathers that he build after came over from Germany. My grand pop told me that he (his dad) always wanted a work bench, so when they finally got to America, he built this.

 

[Gustav7]

The Forrester seems to be a very common die used on the dillon. I know they are popular in general and I think there was some test done by someone who found the Forrester die to have the least run out but m not sure what that consisted of or anything. I have mostly redding but I'm going to look at the Forrester based on the number of guys who use it ITT.

FYI it’s FORSTER.

I would not assume Forster is inherently better than any other good dies but I’ve loved mine. I doubt you’ll go wrong with any good brand.
I went with a FL honed Forster die for my 6.5cm, so the neck of my brass is only worked about 3-4 thou total.

I used Starline SRP brass as well so I don’t have to change over primer systems as well.

I’ve reloaded precision in 1 pass and I’m not really a fan, so I adopted the 2 tool head process for everything outside of pistol. With 1 pass, I ended up having to go slower, more powder stuck to the mouth, and then you have to wipe every round to get the lube off.

With 2 pass, I deprime, size, and mandrel. Then dry tumble/polish and switch to the 2nd tool head. On the 2nd tool head I’ll prime, mandrel again sometimes (especially with semi autos), powder drop via funnel/tube and dual chargemasters, and seat bullets. A super light crimp if I’m using it in the autos.

Having a casefeeder is real nice and speeds it up a lot if you’re running a 650/750, but I’m not sure it’s worth it on the 550. You’re not trying to go super fast on a 550 for precision and it’s good to get a “feel” on every case. I’m running bulk range 223 brass on my 750, but that’s a whole other game. That’s deprime, primer Pocket swage, size, trim, mandrel all in one pass at about 1 case every 2 sec coming off the machine.

Like someone else said, sanding the shellplate flat helps and learning to tune the shellplate screw just right is key for precision. Other than that, it’s learning the “feel” of the press just like anything else.

IMO, the roller handle is a MUST. Makes life easier and less annoying after thousands of rounds.

The “quick change” kits are only worth it if you’re using everything in the kit. If not, just buy the CNC Whidden tool heads or a standard Dillon tool head. If you’re doing precision, you will most likely drop powder using the funnel so Dillon powder drop isn’t needed for any precision caliber.

As far as space, I would prioritize your Dillon for space and give an extra 6-12” more than you think on each side. In-line Fabrication is the jam for anything mount, lighting, or storage related.

Oh ya… oil the main shaft well and it’ll glide like a glass ball bearing. My first 550 I bought for $100 and it was covered in surface rust. Cleaned it up and Lubed it and it’s got probably 15k+rds on it now

 

[parshal]

Gustav has some great tips above.

I used the roller handle for a while a went back to the stock handle. No matter how tight I got the roller it would twist a little to become annoying. If you’re priming separately that’ll probably never happen.

After a couple sessions of cleaning the lube by hand I now just tumble the loaded rounds for 8 minutes in untreated corn cob. I use RCBS lube mixed at the same ratio folks are using with lanolin. It comes off the cases much easier than the lanolin.

 

[Gustav7]

Gustav has some great tips above.

I used the roller handle for a while a went back to the stock handle. No matter how tight I got the roller it would twist a little to become annoying. If you’re priming separately that’ll probably never happen.

A big goop of blue loctite and a lock washer. I also angled mine slightly in towards me and that seemed to help reduce the leverage to make it turn. Mine has been good for about 6-7k on my 750 so far

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

FYI it’s FORSTER.

I would not assume Forster is inherently better than any other good dies but I’ve loved mine. I doubt you’ll go wrong with any good brand.
I went with a FL honed Forster die for my 6.5cm, so the neck of my brass is only worked about 3-4 thou total.

I used Starline SRP brass as well so I don’t have to change over primer systems as well.

I’ve reloaded precision in 1 pass and I’m not really a fan, so I adopted the 2 tool head process for everything outside of pistol. With 1 pass, I ended up having to go slower, more powder stuck to the mouth, and then you have to wipe every round to get the lube off.

With 2 pass, I deprime, size, and mandrel. Then dry tumble/polish and switch to the 2nd tool head. On the 2nd tool head I’ll prime, mandrel again sometimes (especially with semi autos), powder drop via funnel/tube and dual chargemasters, and seat bullets. A super light crimp if I’m using it in the autos.

Having a casefeeder is real nice and speeds it up a lot if you’re running a 650/750, but I’m not sure it’s worth it on the 550. You’re not trying to go super fast on a 550 for precision and it’s good to get a “feel” on every case. I’m running bulk range 223 brass on my 750, but that’s a whole other game. That’s deprime, primer Pocket swage, size, trim, mandrel all in one pass at about 1 case every 2 sec coming off the machine.

Like someone else said, sanding the shellplate flat helps and learning to tune the shellplate screw just right is key for precision. Other than that, it’s learning the “feel” of the press just like anything else.

IMO, the roller handle is a MUST. Makes life easier and less annoying after thousands of rounds.

The “quick change” kits are only worth it if you’re using everything in the kit. If not, just buy the CNC Whidden tool heads or a standard Dillon tool head. If you’re doing precision, you will most likely drop powder using the funnel so Dillon powder drop isn’t needed for any precision caliber.

As far as space, I would prioritize your Dillon for space and give an extra 6-12” more than you think on each side. In-line Fabrication is the jam for anything mount, lighting, or storage related.

Oh ya… oil the main shaft well and it’ll glide like a glass ball bearing. My first 550 I bought for $100 and it was covered in surface rust. Cleaned it up and Lubed it and it’s got probably 15k+rds on it now

Ok cool, that's some good info. It seems my phone doesn't want me to write Forster.... hopefully I've fixed that now. I've had very good luck with my Redding dies over the years in terms of what they produce and their quality, it just seems like Forster is more popular, especially the seating die. Honestly, I'd rather try out some new dies for my single presses and use the existing ones on the dillon for a few reasons, so I may do it that way for most of them but will probably get a Forster seating die also to try out too. Thank you for the information!

So a little off topic but since we've worked out a way to allow me to use the whole room now for my new loading room, I will probably be getting another Dillon or maybe 2 more to complete my room set up. I will always have a 550 and my turret single stage press , but would you rather a 750 or 1050 to do all the stuff that you would want to feed bullets and cases ect and crank out ammo?

 

[Bigfatcock]

1050 for mass production.