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Dillon BL550 seating consistency

Cold_Bore_88

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 13, 2013
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The Woodlands, TX
Does anyone have any feedback on the seating depth consistency when using a Dillon BL550 progressive press? I am in the market for a progressive press. I want to limit my effort. šŸ˜‚

I have been using a forester coax for years but because itā€™s single stage, I tend to just skip the mandrel die because it is extra work.

BL550 consistent enough for LR reloading?
 
@Hoser

I have loaded sub half MOA 223 ammo on my 550B using 77 SMKs. Station 2 has a powder funnel so I can measure externally on a Chargemaster.
 
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If you go 550 either modify dillon tool heads or get a floater tool head from whidden, etc. I picked up a few non floaters and added the float function(cheap).

All my sizing and seating has been very consistent. The ammo has been very concentric so far with no visual runout.
 
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If you go 550 either modify dillon tool heads or get a floater tool head from whidden, etc. I picked up a few non floaters and added the float function(cheap).

All my sizing and seating has been very consistent. The ammo has been very concentric so far with no visual runout.
Thanks for the response and feedback. As most of us are, I am too anal about consistency.
 
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My only advice is make sure the seating station doesnā€™t come loose. I learned the hard way after loading 100 or so .45 ACP and then finding out at the range. Not that big of a deal but just passing the education along.
 
I disagree on need for "floating tool heads" on Dillon x550 presses. My CBTO and concentricity measurements are consistently +/- 0.0015 of target using my '90s-vintage RL-550B and standard tool heads.

I do put a rubber o-ring between die lock ring and tool head on every caliber's dies except 6BR's size die (RCBS MatchMaster) - that tiny round requires this particular die to be screwed in so far that an o-ring uses too much space.
 
I disagree on need for "floating tool heads" on Dillon x550 presses. My CBTO and concentricity measurements are consistently +/- 0.0015 of target using my '90s-vintage RL-550B and standard tool heads.

I do put a rubber o-ring between die lock ring and tool head on every caliber's dies except 6BR's size die (RCBS MatchMaster) - that tiny round requires this particular die to be screwed in so far that an o-ring uses too much space.
This mirrors my experience with a 550 from the same era.
 
I also see no difference in the floating tool heads - I have a mix of both styles from whidden and the regular ones from dillon. No difference I can measure. I also tried the O-rings. No difference for me there either, except its easier to make a couple thou sizing turn on the die.
 
Wanted to add these images. I just got the roll pins and floater lock rings. I think I paid $100 or so for 3 whidden heads. The 4-40 Allen head cap screw locks out upward movement between the body and the tool head, and I think that keeps the adjustment in the seater / sizer die.

20231002_194306.jpg
20231002_194326.jpg


Also the shellplate bearing upgrade.

 
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IMO almost any press will be better than a Co-Ax when it comes to seating consistencyā€¦ probably because they put a handle on it that doesnā€™t really work well with humans.

550s are solid, and I also agree that free-floating tool heads are a waste of time and money .
 
What improved my results the most was to resize on another press, tumble off the lube, then run through the 550 as usual with a resize die in hole 1 adjusted so there's no resize but the primer pin insures the flash hole is clear. Smooths out the strokes and overall operation. You won't believe it's the same machine.

Thank you,
MrSmith
 
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IMO almost any press will be better than a Co-Ax when it comes to seating consistencyā€¦ probably because they put a handle on it that doesnā€™t really work well with humans.

550s are solid, and I also agree that free-floating tool heads are a waste of time and money .

Can you explain a little more why they are a waste of time and money?
 
Can you explain a little more why they are a waste of time and money?

No notable increase in sizing or seating consistency, or improvement on target = not worth the money.

Having to screw the armanov heads in with their high TPI little screws every time you change a toolhead = waste of time, even with a ratchet.

YMMV, these were my n=1 study results. Also, if you're going to do stubby little calibers, be careful with die selection. Some 223 and 6BRA sizing dies would bottom out before I got enough sizing action depending on which floating toolhead/rings I used.
 
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Can you explain a little more why they are a waste of time and money?

Because they donā€™t do anything, at least not in a measurable way.

It has about the same effect as painting your press a different color.

Honestly, Iā€™d say 99% of the Dillon ā€œupgradesā€ out there donā€™t really do a damn thingā€¦ but once guys have looked into them, paid for them, and then installed them, they like to believe they do.
 
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Honestly, Iā€™d say 99% of the Dillon ā€œupgradesā€ out there donā€™t really do a damn thingā€¦ but once guys have looked into them, paid for them, and then installed them, they like to believe they do.

No way. The low mass detent ball is a must have. Changed my press forever. You can totally tell the difference. </sarcasm>
 
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No way. The low mass detent ball is a must have. Changed my press forever. You can totally tell the difference. </sarcasm>

The thing is, I actually think some of the stupid stuff like spent primer tubes/chutes and some of the simple plastic thingys that are out there like pin tabs or whatever are greatā€¦

But when guys start tearing down a whole press and replacing stuff before they even have it actually dialed in or know what theyā€™re really doingā€¦ šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

A stock Dillon, just setup and dialed in real well, makes great ammo as-is without the extra ā€œupgradesā€, many guys usually start changing shit before theyā€™ve even got there though because itā€™s fun to buy dumb shit šŸ˜

IMO the best upgrade is an Inline Fab mount, and they become less impactful from thereā€¦
 
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This is actually helpful as opposed to screwing and unscrewing every time you change hopper. Also having multiple hoppers on separate tool heads.
IMG_0052.jpeg
 
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IDK if the Dillon upgrades are "worth it" but the ammo I can produce improved with these changes using unturned necks.

hone the shell plates flat - part 1 of minimal plate wobble
buy a shell plate bearing upgrade and take your time to set it correctly - part 2 of minimal plate wobble
be sure to keep the bevel both into and out of the ball detents after honing, keeps powder from bouncing out
check you primer cup and be sure it is short enough to seat primers correctly below the case base, consistent primer anvil load
use top quality dies, make sure they produce concentric cases, if not return them until you find a good one
floating tool heads make for case consistency
floating dies make better concentricity - O-rings or pinned locks both allow the dies to float
throw powder and trickle to weight off the press if using extruded powder - ball seems to meter okay
keep it clean and lubed
 
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No way. The low mass detent ball is a must have. Changed my press forever. You can totally tell the difference. </sarcasm>

After I honed the shell plat flat I used a Dremel to lightly ramp the ball path into and out of the detent holes. Make it very smooth when advancing the shell plate - no more powder loss.
 
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The only press I have ever owned is an RL550b, bought used in the late 1980's. At one point, it was making ammo for an MCL Pistol Team.

No mods; the press has made ammo for me that shot consecutive "X"'s at 1000 yd in F Open. I have removed the Dillon Powder measure, and measure all my charges on all my ammo with a Chargemaster Lite; very convenient. All my dies are basic RCBS, except for my 260 Rem; a friend gave me a Hornady New Dimension 2-Die set for Christmas back in 2000.

I find my consistency by practicing consistency in the manipulation of my equipment. A few years back, I got off the competition train, and stopped playing backyard benchrest. I stopped measuring groups and concentrated instead on "Defeating The Target"; some targets require more accuracy than others.

Greg
 
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Does anyone have any feedback on the seating depth consistency when using a Dillon BL550 progressive press? I am in the market for a progressive press. I want to limit my effort. šŸ˜‚

I have been using a forester coax for years but because itā€™s single stage, I tend to just skip the mandrel die because it is extra work.

BL550 consistent enough for LR reloading?

I don't have a BL550 but the RL550B is identical with some hardware to allow processing as a full progressive press.

Can't speak to the Coax but that looks like too much work.

To answer your question re the BL550 consistent enough for LR loading, IME with the RL550B yes it absolutely is capable.
 
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The thing is, I actually think some of the stupid stuff like spent primer tubes/chutes and some of the simple plastic thingys that are out there like pin tabs or whatever are greatā€¦

But when guys start tearing down a whole press and replacing stuff before they even have it actually dialed in or know what theyā€™re really doingā€¦ šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

A stock Dillon, just setup and dialed in real well, makes great ammo as-is without the extra ā€œupgradesā€, many guys usually start changing shit before theyā€™ve even got there though because itā€™s fun to buy dumb shit šŸ˜

IMO the best upgrade is an Inline Fab mount, and they become less impactful from thereā€¦

I think from time to time there are inconsistencies introduced by several factors, some human some mechanical. The floating dies allow for more optimal chance for the brass being centered, especially if the press is not perfect.

I never took my press apart, I just installed the roller bearing and slid the tool heads in. I also did the inline fabrication mount.

I agree the press can make great ammo, but I think it makes even better ammo with a few very simple upgrades.
 
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No notable increase in sizing or seating consistency, or improvement on target = not worth the money.

Having to screw the armanov heads in with their high TPI little screws every time you change a toolhead = waste of time, even with a ratchet.

YMMV, these were my n=1 study results. Also, if you're going to do stubby little calibers, be careful with die selection. Some 223 and 6BRA sizing dies would bottom out before I got enough sizing action depending on which floating toolhead/rings I used.

Once I started using the floating dies my fliers decreased.

Installing those screws never bothered me at all. Interesting.

So watch out for die travel shortages if you are running 223 length cases, got it. I hit the bottom of one die lock ring on some paper to thin it and give me more clearance.
 
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After I honed the shell plat flat I used a Dremel to lightly ramp the ball path into and out of the detent holes. Make it very smooth when advancing the shell plate - no more powder loss.
I'm all for smoothness, but powder loss from slinging while advancing the shell plate on a 550 can be prevented for free.

After I push the handle up I LOOK in the case at the powder level while seating the primer.
If all good, I place my left index finger on the case mouth and left thumb on the index sprocket and advance the shell plate.
Left hand places a bullet on the case in station 3, right hand slides a piece of brass into station 1.
Cycle the press handle, repeat the steps above.
 
 
The thing is, I actually think some of the stupid stuff like spent primer tubes/chutes and some of the simple plastic thingys that are out there like pin tabs or whatever are greatā€¦

But when guys start tearing down a whole press and replacing stuff before they even have it actually dialed in or know what theyā€™re really doingā€¦ šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

A stock Dillon, just setup and dialed in real well, makes great ammo as-is without the extra ā€œupgradesā€, many guys usually start changing shit before theyā€™ve even got there though because itā€™s fun to buy dumb shit šŸ˜

IMO the best upgrade is an Inline Fab mount, and they become less impactful from thereā€¦

How does an Inline fab mount improve concentricity. case sizing, setback or bullet seating?
 
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How does an Inline fab mount improve concentricity. case sizing, setback or bullet seating?

By putting the press at a more optimal ergonomic height so one can pull the handle the same way each time, while simultaneously saving one from wrecking one's shoulder.
 
Does anyone have any feedback on the seating depth consistency when using a Dillon BL550 progressive press? I am in the market for a progressive press. I want to limit my effort. šŸ˜‚

I have been using a forester coax for years but because itā€™s single stage, I tend to just skip the mandrel die because it is extra work.

BL550 consistent enough for LR reloading?
Yes
 
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Agree, but because I prefer stick powders I found that throwing and trickling power charges off the press and dropping them by hand made a huge difference. The standard Dillon powder measure was not even close no matter what I did, stick powder was being crushed and/or cut and made a mess on top of it. I tried using the original 1980's powder measure I got with the RL550 and a more recent Dillon powder measure which was part of a caliber kit but the results were just as poor.
 
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Agree, but because I prefer stick powders I found that throwing and trickling power charges off the press and dropping them by hand made a huge difference. The standard Dillon powder measure was not even close no matter what I did, stick powder was being crushed and/or cut and made a mess on top of it. I tried using the original 1980's powder measure I got with the RL550 and a more recent Dillon powder measure which was part of a caliber kit but the results were just as poor.
yep, basically ball only.