Gunsmithing DIY Muzzle Device Installation on Precision Bolt Action?

[HumbleEinstein]

I have a Remington 700 SPS AAC-SD in an XLR chassis. I want to put a PWS PRC muzzle device on it. I understand that it comes with a shim set to get it timed properly.

Is this something I can do myself without the use of a vise or clamp clamping device? Does the rifle have to be removed from the chassis? Can I just screw it on the rifle with some shims as is until I get it timed properly? Can you hand tighten it or does it need to be torqued? Can you torque is while in the chassis?

Let me know if I'm in over my head and need to go to gunsmith. I would prefer not to.

Sorry about the noob questions. I can't seem to find clear directions on this anywhere. I would appreciate step by step directions.

I appreciate any help. Thank you.

 

[Early Cuyler]

As long as the factory threads are concentric to the bore you'll be fine. No need to clamp the barrel, remove the action from the chassis, etc. Just screw the brake on with shims to align it. This is what I did with my DTA and their brake. Hand tight worked fine for hundreds of rounds before I got it rethreaded.

The main thing is the assumption that the threads from Remington are concentric to the bore. If they are off by too much, you risk the bullet striking your new muzzle brake. I had a similar situation arise when my .223 and .30 cal suppressors cleared the ATF. My DTA was rethreaded perfectly by Joe Collier (Welcome To CollierRifles.com). For my AR15 though I ran a dowel down my barrel with the suppressor, measured the OD of the bore to the OD of the threads in multiple places, and did a visual inspection from the chamber. No issues when shooting.

There are multiple ways to check for concentricity ranging from my cheap AR15 way to having a reputable smith dial everything in. You'll have to decide what level of confidence you want and then act accordingly.

 

[HumbleEinstein]

Bump for more advice. I would really appreciate a professional opinion.

 

[Adam B]

Next to installing a barreled action in a chassis (which I think you have accomplished since your gun is in an XLR) this is about the easiest DIY thing you can add to a gun with a threaded muzzle. Put the barrel in a bench vise, make sure to have wood blocks on each side of it (so you don't mar the finish) and thread the brake on, use the shims to line it up properly. Torque it so that it is tight but not too tight in case you ever want to remove it. You may want to consider changing your username if you are having issues doing this.

 

[Djstorm100]

I'm bump this older thread..curious is there a set tq range like with a AR. Reason being I need to install my Brakeout 51t so I can shoot it suppress.

 

[jdonovan]

The brakeout installation sheet has the torque spec on it. 20-55 ft-lbs

 

[UCChris]

I put a muzzle brake on my Ruger American Predator after my local gunsmith wanted $75 to time it. Everything looks okay, but I'm somewhat hesitant to put a round through it; in case the threads aren't perfectly concentric...

 

[Ledzep]

I'm afraid to walk out my front door; in case a softball size hail falls and kills me.

Simple solution. Look down the bore and see if the brake is blocking view through the spirally hole. Just like you look out side to see if it's hailing before you walk out.

 

[UCChris]

I set myself up for that one...

I have looked and everything seems okay. I also pushed a .243 cal cleaning attachment through to see if it was centered. Everything looks good.

 

[prairieshooter]

I think we're over thinking this one, if you can tighten a nut on a bolt so it won't come off you can screw a muzzle brake on, shim it until it's right, if it's threading on crooked you should be able to see/feel it. A 30 cal muzzle brake isn't .308 inside diameter, they are oversized a bit. You can do it.

 

[kyle528]

^^^^^^^^^ yeah most .30 cal brakes are bored out to .340 or sometimes more. You should be good

 

[Garyc]

I think we're over thinking this one, if you can tighten a nut on a bolt so it won't come off you can screw a muzzle brake on.

I'd have to agree. We're making this harder than it needs to be. No need to take the rifle out of the stock or put it in a vise, just screw it on and go shoot.