so... i got time. oh just because i do this, dont think its all as it should be. i read a bunch of stuff and this is what i came up with. dont just do this and not research on your own. im pretty sure this is how its done, but if not, someone will say something. there are things im fuzzy about, so...
first i need a 5/32" ball bearing. ever notice in hogans heros they always wanted to bomb the ball bearing plant? any way, that and a spent 38 shell casing. knock out the primer, clean out the pocket and i red loctited the ball bearing in place...
next you gotta cut it. i dont have a lathe, but i have a big honking drill. chuck up the case and then look for that hobby saw that i have had for 15 years and NEVER used, lol
there it is
press saw to case and spin drill...
and then its cut. i got lucky and just laid the saw on the case. i was really close to the thick base of the case. no wait, i meant to do that. im just that good, lol, no really it was blind luck. flip it over and run it on a file and its ready to go
now remember this measurement, the thickness is 0.173"ish
now i just backed out my bolt assembly screw
thats where it goes. look at the BAS on the outer edges you see where its sorta polished. im pretty sure thats where the cocking sleeve rode on the BAS during the cocking cycle. now contact is reduced to the bearing touching the center of the BAS. drop of oil or light grease.
sorry the pictures suck. i make retake them, they arent as sharp as i like. ok drop it in and decock the action, start the bolt assembly screw (BAS) a few turns, and recock. i used a wood dowel. then tighten the BAS and you are done. now you are supposed to trim the BAS or the cocking piece sleeve the thickness of the dealy you just made. i think... but im not sure if its the total thickness, or the thickness of the rim and the little bit of ball bearing that protrudes out of the primer pocket. when i find out for sure i will do it. but as it sits, its back together, it cycles fine. it functions fine. i understand that the extra what ever is extra spring compression and thats more tension and that may negate some of the benefit of doing this, but its nothing i cant do later when i get a definate answer on the amount to remove... but there you go...
now in my mind, i would not try to shorten the bottom of the BAS unless i had a mill or someone to do it on a mill or lathe as it need to be square and smooth since the bearing pivots on it. id trim the cocking sleeve but id still want a lathe or mill for a square cut. but thats just me, i am not a machinist, just a tinkerer. have fun. this cost me ... a quarter. my buddy bought me the bearing while he was out looking for a pin vise. i think he overcharged me. oh, one guy said he drilled out the primer pocket, tapped it and then used an allen set screw. rounded the tip and used that instead of the ball bearing.
first i need a 5/32" ball bearing. ever notice in hogans heros they always wanted to bomb the ball bearing plant? any way, that and a spent 38 shell casing. knock out the primer, clean out the pocket and i red loctited the ball bearing in place...

next you gotta cut it. i dont have a lathe, but i have a big honking drill. chuck up the case and then look for that hobby saw that i have had for 15 years and NEVER used, lol

there it is

press saw to case and spin drill...

and then its cut. i got lucky and just laid the saw on the case. i was really close to the thick base of the case. no wait, i meant to do that. im just that good, lol, no really it was blind luck. flip it over and run it on a file and its ready to go

now remember this measurement, the thickness is 0.173"ish

now i just backed out my bolt assembly screw

thats where it goes. look at the BAS on the outer edges you see where its sorta polished. im pretty sure thats where the cocking sleeve rode on the BAS during the cocking cycle. now contact is reduced to the bearing touching the center of the BAS. drop of oil or light grease.


sorry the pictures suck. i make retake them, they arent as sharp as i like. ok drop it in and decock the action, start the bolt assembly screw (BAS) a few turns, and recock. i used a wood dowel. then tighten the BAS and you are done. now you are supposed to trim the BAS or the cocking piece sleeve the thickness of the dealy you just made. i think... but im not sure if its the total thickness, or the thickness of the rim and the little bit of ball bearing that protrudes out of the primer pocket. when i find out for sure i will do it. but as it sits, its back together, it cycles fine. it functions fine. i understand that the extra what ever is extra spring compression and thats more tension and that may negate some of the benefit of doing this, but its nothing i cant do later when i get a definate answer on the amount to remove... but there you go...
now in my mind, i would not try to shorten the bottom of the BAS unless i had a mill or someone to do it on a mill or lathe as it need to be square and smooth since the bearing pivots on it. id trim the cocking sleeve but id still want a lathe or mill for a square cut. but thats just me, i am not a machinist, just a tinkerer. have fun. this cost me ... a quarter. my buddy bought me the bearing while he was out looking for a pin vise. i think he overcharged me. oh, one guy said he drilled out the primer pocket, tapped it and then used an allen set screw. rounded the tip and used that instead of the ball bearing.