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DIY steel targets . . . continued

glock24

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 14, 2006
    2,085
    82
    West Michigan
    For some reason the below SH thread on homemade steel targets has been lost in cyberspace. It doesn't show up in the active forums anymore.

    http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=996503&nt=3&page=1

    I learned a lot from it and have since completed my first steel target. I'd like to keep this information alive in hopes of more.

    I took <span style="color: #3366FF">johngfoster</span>'s design and made my own version of his target stand from 3/4" steel pipe. The legs of my design unscrew using the original NPT threads on the pipe and fittings. I also drilled holes through the top bar for eye-bolts.

    Each leg is 5 foot long, and the crossbar is 4 feet.

    I bought my 12" O.D. x 3/8" AR500 plate from Nevco Targets . Their shipping costs are actual, and they let you design your own shape and attachment points for no extra charge.

    Picture070.jpg

     
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    Let us know how well it works. I am always worried about the legs and chain taking rounds.
     
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    The chain can be replaced with conveyor belt.
    This works really well since the conveyor belt almost self heals after the bullet passes through.
    I have about 20 pieces of steal done this way, the bolts that hold the belt on can usually take a couple of direct hits and even if one side lets go the other still holds it up till the range session is done.

    FWIW,
    Stu
     
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    hmm it says that they are offering deep discounts for small pistol primers, I wonder if they would swap 2k of federals for one of there portatpoppers. But then I have to find a way to ship it to virginia.
     
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    Nice job on the target stand. How much did the plate cost?
     
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    very nice job
    mine is similar but I soldered in some of those brass quick disconnect garden hose fittings to attach the legs to the cross bar.

    the legs disconnect like removing a pneumatic tool from an air line

    come to think of it you could use air line fittings too thay may be cheaper

    i also used 2 inch wide nylon web towing straps to hang the plate they can take lots of hits before they break
     
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    sweet target. looks like you put some work into it. i think i will try to make one of these. what did it cost you
     
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    Get a used firehose from local FD,put it in the place of the chains,will last longer. Got idea from Hide's forum on steel target stands sometime back. Hose will take lots strays before replacement is needed.
     
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    I tried to get some fire hose, but the local FD said the city won't let them give it away any more.
    (I guess someone was selling it or something.)

    So... I happen to have a supply of some old nylon webbing at work that is the wrong color.
    smirk.gif

    Wouldn't you know it, that stuff works exreemly well.
    Been shooting 5 steel targets hanging from them a few times a week for the last 6 months and they are still good to go.

    Thought that I would throw out an alternative material for folks to try.
     
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    Thanks fellas, but the real credit goes to SH member <span style="color: #3333FF">johngfoster</span> who's original design is on page 4 of the above thread link.

    Materials for the frame itself ran me about $60. This includes all the hardware except the chain. I bought 20ft of 1/4" Proof Coil chain for $25 at Wal-Mart so I'd have extra in case I broke some, but the length required for this stand is only two sections about 16" long each.

    The 12" steel plate was another $60 from Nevco. I actually bought a pair of them so I could make two targets.

    The plumbing and hardware list is as follows;

    4 - 5 foot lengths of 3/4" black pipe, threaded one end only
    1 - 4 foot length of 3/4" black pipe, threaded both ends
    2 - 3/4" Tee fittings
    2 - 3/4" Elbow fittings
    2 - 3/4" Closed nipples
    2 - 3/8" S-hooks
    2 - locking carabiners (screw type)
    2 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" eye-bolts
    2 - 16" long (12 links) steel chain

    The locking carabiners attach the chain to the eye-bolts in the top rail, and the S-hooks attach the plate to the chain. This makes it easy to remove the plate for traveling.

    I took it to the range on Monday and shot it about a dozen times @ 500 meters with my 7mmRM. The plate still looks perfect, less some chipped paint.

    The top rail of the frame and the S-hooks had lead splatter on them, but no loss of function.

    The plate dances and rings loudly when hit, but stops swinging completely in about 60 seconds. I wasn't able to knock it off the S-hooks either, something I was worried about.

    If had to do again, I'd figure out a better way to attach the legs. Using the original NPT pipe threads is slow and painful to properly align, especially if you don't have help holding up the stand. Also if you bugger a thread, the leg won't screw in properly. I like the quick-disconnect air fitting idea listed previously.





     
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    here's a few that i made for our club a while back (and a prototype weeble-wobble target stand). these allow us to hang any of the club's steel targets from them.

    targets5.jpg



    targets2.jpg

     
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    300sniper I made mine the exact same way. The legs can be swiveled for uneven ground and they can easily transported and setup. Looks like somebody is going to be buying a lot of AR plate.

    David
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: glock24</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks fellas, but the real credit goes to SH member <span style="color: #3333FF">johngfoster</span> who's original design is on page 4 of the above thread link.

    Materials for the frame itself ran me about $60. This includes all the hardware except the chain. I bought 20ft of 1/4" Proof Coil chain for $25 at Wal-Mart so I'd have extra in case I broke some, but the length required for this stand is only two sections about 16" long each.

    The 12" steel plate was another $60 from Nevco. I actually bought a pair of them so I could make two targets.

    The plumbing and hardware list is as follows;

    4 - 5 foot lengths of 3/4" black pipe, threaded one end only
    1 - 4 foot length of 3/4" black pipe, threaded both ends
    2 - 3/4" Tee fittings
    2 - 3/4" Elbow fittings
    2 - 3/4" Closed nipples
    2 - 3/8" S-hooks
    2 - locking carabiners (screw type)
    2 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" eye-bolts
    2 - 16" long (12 links) steel chain

    The locking carabiners attach the chain to the eye-bolts in the top rail, and the S-hooks attach the plate to the chain. This makes it easy to remove the plate for traveling.

    I took it to the range on Monday and shot it about a dozen times @ 500 meters with my 7mmRM. The plate still looks perfect, less some chipped paint.

    The top rail of the frame and the S-hooks had lead splatter on them, but no loss of function.

    The plate dances and rings loudly when hit, but stops swinging completely in about 60 seconds. I wasn't able to knock it off the S-hooks either, something I was worried about.

    If had to do again, I'd figure out a better way to attach the legs. Using the original NPT pipe threads is slow and painful to properly align, especially if you don't have help holding up the stand. Also if you bugger a thread, the leg won't screw in properly. I like the quick-disconnect air fitting idea listed previously.
    </div></div>

    Cool!!! I thought that stand looked familiar. Glad you were able to use the idea. I hadn't thought of the conveyer belt idea, but it sounds like it would work real well for a more permanent stand. The beauty of this design is that you can take it all down and it packs up into basically 5 compact lengths of steel pipe. I keep mine in the trunk of my car. It is very portable and goes up/comes down really quickly too. I too like the quick-disconnect for the legs better than having to thread them in each time. Not quite as sturdy, but it works just fine.
     
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    the quick disconnects are great, the whole set-up and take-down can be done in much less than a minute working by yourself.

    instability isn't an issue with the garden hose fittings that I used but may be slightly more with air line fittings.
     
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    wonder if you could try some old disc brakes. can often find them cheap/free from places like midas or mienke
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: upjeeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wonder if you could try some old disc brakes. can often find them cheap/free from places like midas or mienke</div></div>

    I personally would not attempt that. So many of them are cast iron, and there are also some which are cast steel.

    Neither of which are conducive to a reliable/reusable/consistent gong style target.

    YMMV.
     
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    I've heard the steel "pads" off the trackes of D10 style earth movers /excavators are supposed to be hardened steel and hold up pretty well to rifle fire, I don't know if anybody can confirm this???
     
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    If you are looking for small pieces or a strip of metal 6 inch by 6 feet or so, an old road grader blade works well. They wear out pretty often from road work so just put the word in at the county office.
     
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    The steel road grader blades work ok. I have used these and they seem to hold up pretty decent and as Pygmycoho1 said they can usually picked up for nothin at the county shed. One downfall is that some already have holes in them to hook up to the grader. Grab a torch and cut to fit your design. Can be a lot of work.
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete E</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've heard the steel "pads" off the trackes of D10 style earth movers /excavators are supposed to be hardened steel and hold up pretty well to rifle fire, I don't know if anybody can confirm this??? </div></div>

    Duno about D10's personaly but have handled my share of D8 pads. They are hard but I have never seen one fail. I'm sure someone somewhere has but not me. Point is by the time you could get one for free it would probably be worthless. You could get belting from a asphalt plant if there is one in your area. Every plant I have been around has a scrap pile somewhere and they would glady let you discard of some shreds for them.
     
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    I agree with the convyor belt scraps for hanging. The belting will take lots of hits without failing. We used them for the TPRC09 match and the results were excellent.
     
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    It is not ar500 but I went to the local recycler intending to buy some steel told him I was leo and what I was doing, he told me I could get as much as I want when I want no charge....
    They had tons of plate in varying thickness 1/16" to 2", shapes and sizes from 2" up to 16" circles,triangles, squares you name it.
    If you have manufacturing in your area you might want to check and see if you have a metal recycler, all the drops have to go somewhere.
    I guess right place right time and not being afraid to ask helps.
     
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    I've heard...hehe that manhole covers work very well, and most metropolitan areas just leave them laying around on public streets.....so I've heard hahah


    P.S. I've also "heard" that a 200lb rated retrieval magnet works well for picking them up off of those public streets
     
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    man hole lids work great I had one in place on some public land for about two years and it took everything people were sending at it until some ass holes started sending 50 AP at it then in turned to shit real quick. I got another one but now bring it home when I am done.

    of course it helps to have a buddy that works for Verizon and can keep leftovers and removals.

    stainless steel preform splice cans work great to NOTHING can kill them NOTHING
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I agree with the convyor belt scraps for hanging. The belting will take lots of hits without failing. We used them for the TPRC09 match and the results were excellent. </div></div>


    I've been trying to find some since I saw them using them at the PRTC match a few years ago. I have no idea where to look for it.
     
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    you can buy 2 inch wide nylon tow straps at walmart that will last practically forever, 20 ft for like $17,

    I use 18 inches on each side, and haven't replaced them in almost 4 years

    20 ft will last a long time
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 65mm06</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've heard...hehe that manhole covers work very well, and most metropolitan areas just leave them laying around on public streets.....so I've heard hahah


    P.S. I've also "heard" that a 200lb rated retrieval magnet works well for picking them up off of those public streets </div></div>

    I'm hoping you're joking, but please don't take manhole covers off the street.
     
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    Good job on the targets. I went to a local metal supply shop and got my own ar500 steel too.

    Alternative Metal Supply in valencia, CA makes steel targets for some local ranges in my area such as Oak Tree Gun Club. You can save tons of money by buying direct from these guys.
     
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    To make it more portable you can place 3/4 pipe unions at certain points as well. just bring a set of channel locks to the range with ya.
     
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    Yeah, we offer that, the problem we ran into was the on occasion, people put more emphasys on rounds down range rather than accuracy, the pipes got shot through a lot faster than a solid rod. But I can make 'em however you want them.

    The target paddles can be core welded (the square tube welded solid) to extend its service life. The paddles made for .22's can be changed out by means of a set-screw in the back of the paddle assembly. As long as you don't have any idiot friends who shoot the .22 targets with a .357 mag, they have a long service life.
     
    Re: DIY steel targets . . . continued

    I made a takedown version of the tripod style stands my home IDPA/IPSC club uses. Rather than just weld all the rebar together like the club does to make these stands, I welded together a tubular "hub" and then cut straight pieces of rebar to fit into the hub so that the whole stand could be disassembled and was very easy to transport.

    Here's the hub:
    photojpg.jpg


    The target just hooks onto the hanger piece. My fiance thought it would be funny to shoot a happy face into the target.
    DSCF8949.jpg


    A wider view. The broad base makes these really stable, and since they come apart it doesn't negatively effect storing or transport.
    DSCF8976.jpg
     
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    I just ordered the new welder last week and it should hit the shop by late next week. I have a few in mind and this thread gave me some additional ideas..
     
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    Helluva idea!!! I like the design, simple, fast, and with all the rebar, fairly cheap.

    I love looking at these threads, I get some great ideas. We have no shortage of stuff to shoot at at our range, and the local cops love being invited out to test new prototypes, and the cookout afterwards is always a hit too.
     
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    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ghost3x7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Helluva idea!!! <span style="font-weight: bold">I like the design, simple, fast, and with all the rebar, fairly cheap. </span>

    I love looking at these threads, I get some great ideas. We have no shortage of stuff to shoot at at our range, and the local cops love being invited out to test new prototypes, and the cookout afterwards is always a hit too. </div></div>

    20' of rebar cost me $6 and gave me enough for the pieces you see in the pics, plus an extra leg and an extra target hanger piece. The rebar stands up pretty well to pistol bullet impacts, the hanger piece took a few hits and all it has to show for it is a very slight bend. A single blow with a hammer would straighten it back out, but since it was so minor we just kept shooting.
     
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    Loader bucket base edge made of DH2 steel and plow bolts welded into the through holes...just prop it up with 2) 18" pieces of 3/4" pipe....presto a slam bang easy break down target that are easy to load and set up when you set 10 or so up....

    100_3478.jpg


    100_3479.jpg
     
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    here is what I put together for an easy quick set up.

    two-1inch nuts four-1inchx3inch bolts
    four-1 inchx 5ft steel pipe
    one- 2ft piece of rebar
    some chain,hooks, and a plate of ar500.
    HPIM1734.jpg
    .
    HPIM1736.jpg
    .
    HPIM1737.jpg
    .
    I haven't used it yet, just put it all together today.
    Had a little change of design.
    tridapter.jpg
    .
    tridapter3.jpg
    .
    tridapter2.jpg
    .
     
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    Time to resurrect this old post! I just got some steel from big dog for the holidays and I need to build some stands anyone have and new/different ideas with pictures???