So I just bought the Nightforce SHV 3-10X40 and one of the reasons I bought it is because I'm one of the poors who couldn't quite make the scratch for the NXS 2.5-10X42. Not a huge deal as most of the features of the scope are right in line with what I really need anyway. I did however, really want some sort of zero stop. After receiving the scope, I saw that this would not be hard to accomplish.
The turret on the SHV has an outer cap to cover the turret and an inner cap that raises up and down as you dial the elevation. If one could limit the downward travel of the inner cap, you'd have an effective zero stop.
I headed down to Lowe's to see if I could find something that could fill that gap. It turns out that 3/4" electrical conduit is a perfect fit. I needed less than 1/4" of it but they only sell it in 10' lengths. I had a conduit cutter, a belt sander and a Dremel tool. That's all that is needed.
Cut the conduit as short as the cutter allows. Then, start sanding down to the rough size you actually need. Once you get close, things get tedious. You'll need the Dremel to smooth out the inside edges and you'll do it often. Fit it on and attach the inner cap. See if you can turn it down. You might be resting on the new stop so run the elevation up and recheck the tightness of the attachment screw and run it back down. I'd suggest leaving yourself a few extra clicks past absolute zero so you have some flexibility if you change loads.
Next, use the Dremel to dish out a viewing port at the center. Without this, you can't see if you've set your cap correctly.
The end result doesn't permanently alter your scope. It does prevent the turret from over-running your 100 yard zero when dialing back down. I might still need to refine this a bit as I'm not totally happy with the view of the revolution counter and the sleeve I made does rotate around the turret so I might need to think about how to prevent that without any permanent alterations.
Hope this helps.
The turret on the SHV has an outer cap to cover the turret and an inner cap that raises up and down as you dial the elevation. If one could limit the downward travel of the inner cap, you'd have an effective zero stop.
I headed down to Lowe's to see if I could find something that could fill that gap. It turns out that 3/4" electrical conduit is a perfect fit. I needed less than 1/4" of it but they only sell it in 10' lengths. I had a conduit cutter, a belt sander and a Dremel tool. That's all that is needed.
Cut the conduit as short as the cutter allows. Then, start sanding down to the rough size you actually need. Once you get close, things get tedious. You'll need the Dremel to smooth out the inside edges and you'll do it often. Fit it on and attach the inner cap. See if you can turn it down. You might be resting on the new stop so run the elevation up and recheck the tightness of the attachment screw and run it back down. I'd suggest leaving yourself a few extra clicks past absolute zero so you have some flexibility if you change loads.
Next, use the Dremel to dish out a viewing port at the center. Without this, you can't see if you've set your cap correctly.
The end result doesn't permanently alter your scope. It does prevent the turret from over-running your 100 yard zero when dialing back down. I might still need to refine this a bit as I'm not totally happy with the view of the revolution counter and the sleeve I made does rotate around the turret so I might need to think about how to prevent that without any permanent alterations.
Hope this helps.
