• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Do I need to re “0” everything?

blacklab1

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 23, 2018
164
107
I had a bad weekend with my B14r. I had it in a MPA chassis and had all kinds of feeding issues so after finishing 2nd last in a match I swapped the chassis to a MTD. I shot it yesterday afternoon and now it feeds great, but……..I had a Vortex AMG on it and it shit the bed. I put a Vortex Razor on it this afternoon and sighted in at my 50 yard 0. My question is since the stock and glass was changed and the weight of everything is different will that totally change the harmonics of the rifle? Do I need to recheck everything from 25-300 yards or will it be close? I’m hopping to shoot this weekend again and don’t have enough time to check it all.
 
I had a bad weekend with my B14r. I had it in a MPA chassis and had all kinds of feeding issues so after finishing 2nd last in a match I swapped the chassis to a MTD. I shot it yesterday afternoon and now it feeds great, but……..I had a Vortex AMG on it and it shit the bed. I put a Vortex Razor on it this afternoon and sighted in at my 50 yard 0. My question is since the stock and glass was changed and the weight of everything is different will that totally change the harmonics of the rifle? Do I need to recheck everything from 25-300 yards or will it be close? I’m hopping to shoot this weekend again and don’t have enough time to check it all.
Yes, it does. The only way to tell how much of a difference is to test it and make the necessary adjustments.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blacklab1
Respectfully, I disagree. Your MV hasn’t changed, nor has your bore or BC. If your zero is good, then your dope should be good. The only big change I might foresee is if your scope height has significantly changed, and even that would be a minor impact on dope.
 
It will be fine. Shoot it. Pending your relationship between your action/stock/chassis is good your rifle will shoot the same.

Oh and Vortex sucks….
 
Check it. You have changed scope and stock. check it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Turbo2
The math that is most important to get is the 50/55 yard zero. However, as a practical matter, its a good idea to check out 100yds. From there, you should be able to synch up with previously good dope.
 
50 yard zero, Confirm drop at 100, 150, 200, 250 & 300. If its not matching Pryor data update kestrel DSF from Close to Far and shoot the hell out of it. Should be able to do it with 30-50 rounds quickly if steel is already on the range.

I use an Atlas sight in target with water line painted on it and just paint and move it every 50 yards. I typically have our RimFire range to my self anyways.
 
If the data was correct before it will remain accurate. Long range 22RF is always going to require verifying data due to conditions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MarshallDodge
Odd man out, I say check at the club, and bring your torque tool as different stock assemblies will effect group size according to torque. Test and use what works best, then test your numbers at the farthest distance you have access to.
 
Just a follow up if anyone was wondering. After changing the chassis and glass and RE zeroing @ 50 yards I shot a F class match at 200 yards and the dope was spot on. After that I shot a MARS match and dope held true from 25 to 200 yards.
 
  • Like
Reactions: STex and RTH1800