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Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Hummer

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Jun 20, 2009
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I keep seeing references to small base dies on other forums with claims that they size .001" to .003" smaller on the base than FL dies. Well lets see if that is true by using the following.
We will address 308 and 30.06 for this discussion but similar can be used for 223.

This is a psychological test for shooters. Remember when we were kids you had blocks and board that taught us how to put round pegs in round holes and square pegs in square holes and hexs in hex holes? Same principle here.

OK we have a new toy and obviously we like to reload to save the big bucks for more toys and buying toys that we are told are better didn't necessarily work out at least for me and small base dies are in this catagory.

First fire the rifle.
Second take the case and reorient in several positions and see if it will go back in the chamber and bolt close. If it does you don't have a egg shaped chamber which is the good news.
Third using a good micrometer measure the case .200" up from the rim. This is the standard base reference point in the ammo industry for base dimensions for ammo, chambers,reamers etc.
SAAMI Chambers for 308/30.06 will generally measure .471 to .473 and I have seen chambers that deliver .475" fired cases or FB (use your imagination on that acronym haha).
OK say you have fired cases that give worst case .473" or FB and now you are ready to size them. Screw your FL die all the way down until it <span style="text-decoration: underline">contacts the shell</span> holder and using a good case lube run the case in and then remove it.
Re mic your case at the .200" up from base point and see what you have. On 308 cases I suspect you will now have .468"-.469" New 308 cases come two ways I have seen. .465" for commercial and .468" for LC. All 30.06 new unfired I have ever miced be they commercial or LC/FA match are .465". The gov't chambers being FB were designed for bigger bases with more exposed unsupported areas in the rear (M14) thus the gov't brass is heavier, thicker as well.
OK we have a .473" fired case and a .469" sized case thusly you have a air fit condition for the base of the case and if it won't now chamber when it previously did tells us the die is the culprit because we know .469" is alot smaller than .473" right? Or in other words your sized case is now .004 smaller than the chamber which begs the question how is a "SMALL BASE" sizing the base even smaller going to help it go in?
This would suggest the FL die caused the problem but the industry tells us we need a even smaller base so they make up dies called SMALL BASE but are they really SB?

If the FL die made the case smaller at the base than the recently fired case and the bolt is hard to close shows us we now have a problem but where is it? All have read that cases get longer when they are sized and we need to trim them and we are instructed to measure the OAL of the case to determine how much they need to be trimmed. <span style="text-decoration: underline">What they always fail to mention is not only is the OAL length of the case longer, the distance from the case head to the shoulder has also become longer.</span>
Obviously thinking on it, if you trim the case length and the shoulder is not moved back to original position for semi autos or bumped .001" TO .002" for bolt guns begs the question of what have you done to achieve your goal? Nothing really. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Logically if the base to shoulder length is longer than the bolt face to shoulder length it is just not going to shut.</span>
They guy that trained me at the Army Small Cal Lab figured it out in the early 50s when he worked at Springfield Armory and had ALL THE DRAWINGS and doing a tolerance study he concluded the chamber in many of the DIES are cut too deep. What does this do? OK if the die is cut too deep it therefore follows <span style="text-decoration: underline">the die is not going to contact the shoulder of the fired case to set it back to factory length because the base of the die hit the shell holder and ramming a steel shell holder in the bottom of a steel die to size a brass case further is not going to accomplish anything if the chamber of the die is cut too deep </span>Logically we have a die fabrication problem (to deep) and not a radial dimension problem in the base requiring a SB die right? How prevalent is this (to deep) problem? Pretty bad actually. I have dies for about 52 calibers now and I have had adjust the dies so they would size correctly on over one fourth of them. I did this by chucking the dies in the lathe and cutting .010" on most and up to .025" off the bases of at least two thus making the die chamber shorter as measured from the rim to the case shoulder.

There is another tool that is very handy to have and this is a case gage. There are several but my Dad used L. E. Wilson so I got left his reloading stuff and when I needed more I ordered them made by same company. Wilson Case Gages measure several things to make sure you have a case that has been restored to factory (SAAMI) dimensions. They measure the max case diameters from neck / shoulder / body and base. Obviously if your die doesn't size enough in any of these areas the case will not go in. Assuming you have a commercial rifle made to SAAMI recommendations you can be assured if the case won't go in a L.E. Wilson case gage it is not going to go in all rifles. They may go in some rifles with headspace cut long but if you have a new barrel installed and you request min headspace (for longer case life) you are going to have problems.

The Wilson measures the distance from the head of the case to the headspace point on the shoulder. If the shoulder location has not been restored to factory length the case will sit "high" on the gage base. There are two surfaces on the base of the case gage, the lower one tells the max amount of shoulder set back you can have and be safe and the upper tells the min amount the shoulder needs to be set back in order for the bolt to close on a "0" headspace chamber. If you place a GO headspace gage in the Wilson gage it will be even with the upper surface.
Next the same gage measures the min and max OAL of the case to make sure your case neck is not jammed in end of chamber.
I have never seen a rifle that failed to chamber a case after being certified good in a Wilson Case Gage unless the OAL of the loaded is too long and the bullet is jammed in the lands. This is where good calipers come in and a Sinclair gage that looks like a big hex nut. The BIG NUT Sinclair gage allows a reloaded to set the full diameter of the bullet regardless of make to the same point in relation to the throat. You cannot rely on OAL to determine feed reliably as ogives are different for each bullet design.

OK you have a FL die that gives smaller base than fired case but won't chamber, what do you do? This is where friends come in that have a lathe. You simply remove the collar and the decap rod, chuck the die in the lathe and cut off the bottom of the die a bit. Normally I take off .010" to start with and this generally does it. I run the same case in the FL die that has been adjusted to leave a small space between die above shell holder and if I have cut enough off-- the shoulder will set back-- and the bolt closes easily (or check in Wilson Gage). I double check against the Wilson case gage and if the head of the case is even with the high shelf or between the high and low shelf I know I am good to go.

One die last year was chambered way too deep and I wound up taking off .025" inch before the case would qualify in the gage! ! ! !

Next we have those that say "if you have a tight chamber you need a SB die" because someone used a worn reamer. I run tight chambers and love them. My 30.06 reamers cut .467" and .4685" base dims. My 308 tight reamers cut .468/.4685"/469" chambers. I headspace on ZERO to boot. My chambers are so tight fired cases will go in a Wilson Case gage and spec new as I don't want anything moving over .001 to .002" on firing. This makes for long case life and with the prices of todays ammo it makes sense at least to me to do everything I can to increase case life. My chambers on my match guns can be just touched with a neck size die and go in factory chamber.

I segregate cases for all my rifles and same cases are fired in same rifle with a min of sizing. I have four sets of 30.06 dies and they size .465, .466, .468 and .470". The .470 was polished out to this dimension to size FB fired cases just enough to go back in .471-.473 chambers. My 308 dies size .467 and .469 I think it is. I do not size LC cases in the .467 die as the brass is manufactured at .468.
I do not own and never have owned a SB die. The rifles I find with FB chambers are moved on or set back and rechambered. To keep a rifle with a FB chamber just speeds up the case destruction and I moved all these out long ago.

The only time I use the .465" 30.06 die is when I have pick up brass and want to run it in a Garand. Note: The Garand clip does not like cases sized larger than .466. Anything larger makes for interesting time getting in the 8th round and thusly is so sized. So it is the clip that is the problem and not the chamber requiring sizing back to new condition.

This deep chamber problem is not restricted to one brand by any means. I have dies from I guess six or more manufacturers and as indicated about 1/4th of them had to be trimmed off the length.

I suspect the industry did not want to admit they had a production problem and thusly they came up with the SB die when in reality it is probably a die they have gaged to be "in spec" and marked as SB blaming the rifle as the problem when all along it is the die having been cut too deep.
For those of you that have never dealt with the gun industry the gun boys tend to blame all problems on the ammo boys and I have backed a couple factory reps into a corner and shut down their BS.

I have personally acceptance test fired better than a thousand rifles and I have yet to find one with a "tight chamber" as they are big and FB.

Thusly you really don't need to invest in SB dies first. You need good micrometer, caliper, case gages and be looking for a friend with a lathe. Oh yeah when you trim off bottom of die re polish the little radius on the bottom like it came from factory so the big case swells won't show a rolled up shoulder of metal from the sharp die base opening.

The moral of this little ditty, "Try before you buy". You need a good 0-1" mic, a good caliper and good case gages and whatever you do don't ever think what a factory rep says is right. I have shut down a couple factory reps when I took down their statements and called their chief engineer and told them what was said. Generally the people on the phone you talk to have orders not to give out any tech info and they know very little to start with.

For information purposes would those that already have SB marked dies please size some cases and measure them and tell us what their SMALL BASE dies resizes the base dimension to?

Also on 308/30.06 cases please measure those cases fired in a FACTORY RIFLE (not a custom rebuild) but a factory rifle and tell us the size of their fired cases.

Bottom line is do you homework before you waste money buying dies that say they are small base.


 
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Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I would think that before someone comes on SH and rips an entire industry, that he/she would learn how to set his/her dies and press up as well as basic reloading principles.

There are a number of errors in the opening post, a few of which I will address:

"Screw your FL die all the way down until it contacts the shell holder and using a good case lube run the case in and then remove it."

Proper set-up of a die/press combination is to screw the die down until it contacts the shellholder, lower the ram, and then screw the die in further. This is done to allow the press to cam over. If you don't think this is necessary, run the ram up with a case in the shellholder and look between the die and the shellholder. There will be a gap there.

The common direction is an 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn past contact with the shellholder. Given that dies are 7/8-14 thread, each full revolution is 0.0714. Thus screwing the die in another 1/8 revolution will result in the moving the die down 0.0089, 1/4 revolution 0.0179.

"What they always fail to mention is not only is the OAL length of the case longer, the distance from the case head to the shoulder has also become longer."

This is completely wrong. I suggest you buy a set of case mics (I prefer Mo's, but RCBS will work) or a Stoney Point case headspace attachment for you calipers. These tools measure how much the distance between the case base and the case shoulder has been made shorter(often referred to as set back).

You also base your findings and recommendations on a couple of assumptions:
1. That there is a problem with the dies that makes cutting them shorter necessary. Have you ever measured a number of different shellholders. The critical dimension to look at is the depth from the top of the shellholder to the flat on which the base of the case sits. You will find a large variance between manufactures. This variance can be enough to prevent a case shoulder from being sized enough.

2. That everyone has the ability to segregate cases to a given rifle and therefore can resize a minimum amount (as this will increase case life, which is correct). While this would be great in an ideal world, it is not always practical.

I load for a number of rifles and am willing to sacrifice case life for feeding reliability. Therefore, I resize cases which may be used in different rifles to SAAMI minimum headspace with smallbase dies.

3. That all rifles are the same as yours.


I am curious about a couple of statements you made:

"I have dies from I guess six or more manufacturers and as indicated about 1/4th of them had to be trimmed off the length."

How many of these dies were just fine, but you didn't know how to adjust them properly?

"I have personally acceptance test fired better than a thousand rifles and I have yet to find one with a "tight chamber" as they are big and FB."

Were these rifles at the "Army Small Cal Lab"? If so, the reason the chambers a "big and FB" is to provide for maximum reliability, not case life.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

What is stopping you from further adjusting the die?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is stopping you from further adjusting the die? </div></div>

Because that doesn't make rounds smaller, it makes them shorter.

Yes there is a use for small base dies. They are for semi-auto rifles. They are necessary.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I keep seeing references to small base dies on other forums with claims that they size .001" to .003" smaller on the base than FL dies. Well lets see if that is true by using the following.</div></div>

I'm sure they size smaller, but in more than 30 years loading for autos, including match chambers, I've never used a SB die.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Guys, this has been a really valuable thread - thanks! In particular, I've not been lowering the die by 1/8 to 1/4 turn after I "zero" it against the shell holder. I think this will help bump case necks when I need it.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Yes there is a use for small base dies. They are for semi-auto rifles. They are necessary. </div></div>

Bull SHIT.

I load and shoot in excess of 5k rounds a year out of match and standard chambered semi-autos - 223, 308, and 30-06 - and have never owned or loaded with a small base die.

I have however had .005" removed from the bottom of both of my Forster sizers (223 and 308) so that I can size fired brass down to work in match chambers cut between .000" and .0015" of minimum headspace.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dan46n2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is stopping you from further adjusting the die? </div></div>

Because that doesn't make rounds smaller, it makes them shorter.

Yes there is a use for small base dies. They are for semi-auto rifles. They are necessary. </div></div>

Right, but the OP is cutting his dies shorter, that would make the round shorter also, not smaller.... see my point?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I think the point of the small base dies is to be able to use brass fired in loose semi-auto chambers in tighter bolt action rifles.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have however had .005" removed from the bottom of both of my Forster sizers (223 and 308) so that I can size fired brass down to work in match chambers cut between .000" and .0015" of minimum headspace.</div></div>

Once had to trim an RCBS 0.010' to get the correct setback.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: packratt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the point of the small base dies is to be able to use brass fired in loose semi-auto chambers in tighter bolt action rifles. </div></div>

Exactly, what does that have to do with cutting the die shorter.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I'm with Hummer on this one. I just sized several thousand 7.62 x 51 LC 91 fired in machineguns using a standard die adjusted to the correct length and they chamber easily in my tight chambered bolt rifle. Some dies ARE too deep and need to be shortened. On the other hand I had a dillon trim die in 223 that was too SHORT and when screwed down to the shell holder it sized the shoulder back over .020" too much causing case head seperations before I figured it out. I still use the die but adjust it according to the GAUGE!!
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Because of the case body taper, making a die shorter *will* make it produce ever-so-slightly narrower ammo at the BASE if it is used to make shorter ammo.

More so for .30-06 or especially 7.62x39 than for .308.

I've never owned a bolt-action .308 or .5.56x45, and have never needed a small base die. Like Vic, though, I've had way short brass life from doing the "instructional" cam-over method of adjusting the sizing die. All of my bottleneck case FL sizing dies now have indexing marks to show where the bumpback is proper for my rifles.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Like Vic, though, I've had way short brass life from doing the "instructional" cam-over method of adjusting the sizing die.</div></div>

The best advice I ever received was to throw away the instructions that come with a die set.
 
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Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

For those that drink the press cam-over cool-aid Redding is happy to sell you a set of shell holders of varying height so that you can still have cam-over while not sizing the case to the minimum headspace it is capable of in its factory press/die/shellholder configuration.

Regarding the comments above re: bolt guns versus gas guns and the need for small base dies, I can take M249 or M4 fired surplus LC brass, size it one time in my Forster sizer, and it will feed just fine in both my semi-auto and bolt 223 rifles cut with a Wylde reamer, both again cut between .000'.0015" of minimum headspace.

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that Forster offers the .005" mod from the factory in their "National Match" version of their sizer.

It would be an interesting comparison to take a Tee Gauge and start taking some internal dimensions off of the different dies discussed here, RCBS small base dies included, to see what kind of dimensions we come up with.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

9H:

I agree with your point that small base sizing is not always needed, particularly when dealing with one rifle and known brass. I also don't "drink the cam over kool-aid." I size cases to a given headspace regardless of cam over.

I load brass which I don't know the history of. While I fully inspect brass for signs of incipient separations, split necks, etc, I don't always know whether my jrs are picking up just their brass or others. I had some brass one of my jrs picked up at a match from a service team member that I threw away after I ripped the rims off of 2 pieces because they were so oversized at the base.

My main points are that there is a place for small base dies and that the OP bases many conclusions on a faulty set-up.

I would like to know a couple of things: Are you using your modified sizing dies on a Dillon or single stage press? Why did you modify the die and not the shellholder?

I ask becasue I had problems with a Forster seater on a Dillon until I cut the floating column shorter.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

DMS - I use a Forster Coax press so modifying the shell holder versus the die is not an option. While yes a die is more $$ than a shell holder (assuming a conventional press that uses a shell holder - C, O, or turret), it was not an option for me and I have total confidence in my gunsmith (or any real machinist) making the mod.

One reason I often consider the small base die a solution looking for a problem has to do with the very basis for how our consumer available dies, shell holders, and presses are set up. One has to look no further than the Glock for an example of this. The Glock chamber, even with standard pressure loads, allows the case to expand in a way that a standard die/shell holder/press combo cannot correctly size to fit in a supported match chamber M1911. Conventional press/SH/die combos just do not size the whole case, regardless of the internal dimensions at the base of the die, cam-over, etc.

As you pointed out, brass selection is for sure an element in all of this. I can create the situation you speak of very easily by firing my ammo in my NTIT rifle RRA factory chamber (.007" over minimum headspace), sizing down to mimimum to work in my smith-cut chambers, then firing again in the RRA.

The converse of this is to instead NOT size to minimum, rather set back the shoulder .002" back from the fired dimension in the long factory chamber in order to get some brass life, but then this ammo will not feed in a chamber cut anywhere near SAAMI minimum headspace.

When discussing this situation, we also should keep a few other points in mind:

- the .mil does not design their weapons nor ammo with reloading of the brass in mind; the brass becomes dunnage and from there is sold as scrap metal when used in training and left behind when used in battle. The specs for the brass and ammo are around reliability and weather tightness, not reloading. The .mil also does not plan for any reloaded ammo to be run through their weapons.

- every piece of new brass I've ever measured, be it in loaded ammo or just brass, has the headspace approx .002" short of SAAMI minimum.

- I challenge any of you to present to us a rifle with a factory chamber that is less than .003" over minimum SAAMI headsapace (Savage rifles excluded for obvious reasons).

All of these factors combine in my reloading in the following way:

- start with new brass or 1x fired brass from a known source. I use John Johnson of Brassmanbrass and get Remington so that I have one less step to do (pocket decrimping)
- have your chambers cut with one reamer; buy the reamer if you have to. They are cheap.
- have the headspace set the same on all chambers you want to interchange ammo with.
- keep track of the number of firings of your brass.
- run moderate pressure loads.
- range brass that cannot be confirmed as 1X should be inspected then either go in the recycle bin or the "blaster" bin - ammo you intend to leave lie after firing one time. The latter needs a good inspection. The depth of the head stamp gives a good indication of how many times brass has been fired.

As DMS you inspired my manifesto on the subject, I have one more point about this to bring up. That is the "Roll Sizer". A company in Salida CO, Scharch, used to make and sell a sizing machine that rolled the base of the case between two metal plates. It is/was the only way I know of for us consumers to address the shortcoming of our consumer-available sizing dies/shell holders/presses. My understanding is they are no longer available for sale, though I suspect he still uses his invention in the processing of the brass he sells. Such a device is the only thing I know of that can address the root issue with the Glock/M1911 chambering problems. Luckily I have access to one when processing my pistol brass.

Did I miss anything?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

9H, I am a winner of your challenge. I got a new Remington 700 308 a couple years ago and initial inspection I checked firing pin energy. When I opened the bolt the copper holder did not extract. I next tried a NO-GO gage and the bolt easily closed on it and this was 0 rounds. I sent it back to Remington and they replaced the entire barreled action and it took two trips back but they finally got it right. It also did not have enough striker energy.
I thoroughly agree with buying your own reamer, same headspace, not overworking brass etc.
I have heard there is a place in Georgia that is making a rig to restore the head size on 223 cases to retighten the primer pockets. Are you familiar with this? I would like to get one but can't find out who is making it.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hummer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">9H, I am a winner of your challenge. I got a new Remington 700 308 a couple years ago and initial inspection I checked firing pin energy. When I opened the bolt the copper holder did not extract. I next tried a NO-GO gage and the bolt easily closed on it and this was 0 rounds. I sent it back to Remington and they replaced the entire barreled action and it took two trips back but they finally got it right. It also did not have enough striker energy.
I thoroughly agree with buying your own reamer, same headspace, not overworking brass etc.
I have heard there is a place in Georgia that is making a rig to restore the head size on 223 cases to retighten the primer pockets. Are you familiar with this? I would like to get one but can't find out who is making it.
</div></div>

Hummer:
9H challenge was to find a factory rifle which was LESS THAN .003 OVER MINIMUM HEADSPACE. If your rifle will chamber a No-Go gauge it does meet the challenge.

Hart makes a tool for tightening primer pockets. Never used one. If I have a primer that seats easily, I'll set the case aside for practice ammo and mark it with red dykem so I know to scrap it after firing. If the primer seats too soft, I'll remove the primer and scrap the case before firing it again.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Yes Hummer, DMS is right and your post further illustrates how little is understood about this issue by so many. The fact that your rifle closed on the no-go, assuming a civie gauge of a common chambering (223, 308,30-06), the no-go is 6 thou over minimum; a field 8 thou. If yours closed on a no-go easily then your headspace was in excess of 6 thou over minimum.

If you want to plead that you had your gauge names backwards, well guess what - said chamber would STILL close easily on a GO.

Oh and Hummer, I am not trying to pick on you. I would be in the same place had I not a patient machinist/gunsmith/friend that has been patient and showed me how all this works together.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I don't even think about Field Service. If it closes on a NO-GO it comes off for a setback if it is a bolt gun. No - Go deadlines them for me. Clymer used to advertise Field Service as .010" over a GO. Are you sure about the .008" figure?
I try to fit mine to snug on a GO gage so the shoulder only moves up and stops at the GO range.
My fired cases drop in a L.E. Wilson Case Gage they gage the same as new unprimed brass. On a Mo Gage they show up around <.001". Yes I do own Mo Gages and recommend them regularly. I have known Mo since 1973, been to his home, bought lots of good stuff from him. I also own about six LE Wilson Case Gages and recommend them regularly. I also make my own gages to measure shoulder set back which are cut with the same reamer used to cut specific chambers. This is the ultimate gage as the shoulders are the exact same in the gage and in the chamber.
Yeah I have seen the punches for tightening primer pockets but as I understand it this one works in a arbor press and the brass is forced in from the sides 180 from the way it expanded.

We still need those that have a SMALL BASE die to measure the bases of cases resized in them and report that to the Hide.

What would really be nice is for those that have Full Length and Smallbase is next time they shoot measure say ten cases .200" up from the base and record those dimensions in a column. (see below) You can take a Sharpie fine point and write case numbers on these cases to keep track of them.

Run say FIVE of them in the FULL LENGTH die and measure the same place, wipe the case off and replace the number. Record these dimensions in a column. (see below)

Next run FIVE them in SMALL BASE die,measure the same place and give us those dimensions under each of the below headings.

FIRED (ALL CASES)
AFTER FULL LENGTH (cases 1-5)
AFTER SMALL BASE (cases 6-10)
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Small base dies are necessary for chambers that are "smallish" at the base. Gas guns don't like reloads with EDIT improperly sized EDIT brass that wedges into the chamber. Any full length die will cause case headspace length to increase if the shoulder is not set back in the resizing process.

EDITED to add- when you have cases that have been fired in fat chambers, SAWS, M-60, etc. there can be problems when shooting these cases in tighter chambers if the die does not resize the dia. enough.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Do you have this rifle with too tight a chamber? Please measure fired cases and tell us what you find.
Is it a factory rifle or????
What factory?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gas guns don't like reloads with undersized brass that wedges into the chamber.</div></div>

I've fired a LOT of gas guns that never had any problem with undersized brass wedging into the chamber.

But some of them broke those undersized cases.on the third firing.



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Now, if you mean the OPPOSITE of what you wrote, then all I can say is that I have NEVER found a gas gun that would not chamber ammo sized with a regular FL sizing die--except for ONE particular die that was too large diameter just behind the shoulder, NOT at the base. It's like the corner of the chamber there wasn't quite cut all the way sharp, or the die was worn there a bit too much. The die *had* been "un-scratched" with 600 grit twice by the time that new barrel came into the mix, and the ammo bump-back of the shoulder was *also* not right for that chamber.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Redding Comp Shellholders. Although expensive and unfortunately I only needed one worked fantastically well for headspace and bumping the shoulders. No need to cut my dies or lap my shellholders down for sizing purposes.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I can tell you far a fact that the brass I had been shooting in my CMP Garand would NOT extract from the chamber after it was rebarreled. Small base sizing the brass solved that problem. Diameter and NOT headspace was definitely the problem. I can also tell you that 223 brass fired in my Wylde chamber would not cycle properly in my smaller Compass Lake chamber. Once again small base sizing solved that problem and once again it was NOT headspace causing the problem.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hummer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you have this rifle with too tight a chamber? Please measure fired cases and tell us what you find.
Is it a factory rifle or????
What factory? </div></div>
No, I don't own the rifle. Not a factory chamber. It is a Rem. 700 rifle in .308. The gunsmith told the owner the chamber was cut with a reamer designed for the AMU's M-14s. Maybe the reamer had been re-ground or simply too small to begin with.
There should certainly be some clearance at the base to allow some case web expansion over the factory dims. How much? I don't know. I remember reading on the old Florida Shooting Forum about a recommended minimum clearance in this area for proper extraction.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Grump</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gas guns don't like reloads with undersized brass that wedges into the chamber.</div></div>

I've fired a LOT of gas guns that never had any problem with undersized brass wedging into the chamber.

But some of them broke those undersized cases.on the third firing.



***


***


***


Now, if you mean the OPPOSITE of what you wrote, then all I can say is that I have NEVER found a gas gun that would not chamber ammo sized with a regular FL sizing die--except for ONE particular die that was too large diameter just behind the shoulder, NOT at the base. It's like the corner of the chamber there wasn't quite cut all the way sharp, or the die was worn there a bit too much. The die *had* been "un-scratched" with 600 grit twice by the time that new barrel came into the mix, and the ammo bump-back of the shoulder was *also* not right for that chamber. </div></div>

I re-read my post. I used the word "undersized" to describe the act of improperly sizing as in not enough. "undersize" would definately mean too small. Poor choice of words on my part. Thanks
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Small base dies are for sizing brass that has been fired in a full auto gun such as the SAW...so I have read. The chambers in many full auto guns such as the 1919A4 are looser than say the AR15 of M1 Garand...something about the bottom rear of the chamber being more open which aids in extraction.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

MJC, I had a friend with the same die problem. He had a M1A and his reloads would not allow chambering. I ran his dies in my tool and still it would not. I ran my loads in his chamber and it worked like a champ. I had him load brass sized in my dies and they worked like a champ. I told him to send them back to RCBS and he got a new set of dies out of it. No problems since.
A friend sent me two Hornady FL dies he said were no good. One really sizes the front end way down and there is a marked difference in the amount of force required to fire cases in the same chamber. The other would not size correctly until I trimmed off the bottom and I use it all the time now.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Shackles, do you remember where you read this?
Does anyone have a case drawing for M240 or M249 that is larger that NATO case drawing?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Hummer: from what I understand you are saying you basically are turning your dies into small base dies. Small base dies are specifically set up to size further down the case than standard dies. I does NOT mean that they size smaller than SAAMI. If you grind a portion off the bottom of the die it will size further down the base than a standard die. That is what a small base die IS. I know I have had an occasional die/shell holder combination that would not let me headspace my brass enough but that is not what small base dies are designed to prevent. It is to allow sizing further down the case base so that you get the brass base diameter sized closer to SAAMI minimum. Most of the time this really isn't necessary. However, there are cases where it is like I mentioned where you have two rifle with significantly different chamber base diameters. Yes, you could just keep all your brass segregated by rifle but that is not always desirable or convenient. There are times I would much rather use a small base die instead. Brass is relatively cheap so I don't care if this losses me a couple reloads if it saves time and fuss. This discussion has been very useful though as it makes you think about what is going on when you size your brass.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

From the RCBS website:
"The Small Base Sizer Die sizes the case from the shoulder to the head of the case a couple of thousandths smaller than a Full Length Sizer Die. In certain calibers it also sets the shoulder of the case back a thousandth or two more than the Full Length Sizer Die. The Full Length Die Set or Neck Die Set is not normally recommended for ammo to be used in auto, semi-auto, or lever action rifles. The Full Length Die set is recommended for ammunition used in bolt action rifles, particularly for ammunition to be used for hunting."

It goes on to say:
"If the cases don't chamber, please return the sizer die along with the five fired cases. The fired cases will give us your chamber dimensions and if the chamber is in standard factory tolerance, we'll make the necessary adjustment in the die for you without cost. If, upon our inspection the chamber is out of standard specification, we will notify you of the cost of producing a die to those specifications."

My read of this is they will cut off the die to obtain headspace from rim to shoulder if they have to on standard chamber which is the same thing I do.



On 7.62 LC ammo new cases run .468 and my FL size die runs sizes down to .469 and factory chambers run .471 to .473 or larger. The .469 die sizes cases that drop freely into L.E. Wilson case gage and locate even with the top shelf on back of gage for correct shoulder location or between the locator surfaces and have chambered just fine in M1As, M14, M1, 760 and 742. Commercial cases new run .465".
Trying to size milspec brass smaller than new is going to run into problems quick.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

There are two main things that determine whether the sized case fits into the chamber or gauge - headspace and case diameter. The majority of the time it is insufficient headspace that prevents case chambering. But, sometimes it is lack of sizing the case base enough. This can be seen when the case sticks in the chamber or gauge before it hits the datum line on the shoulder. Since the dies are tapered trimming the bottom of the die will decrease the base diameter of the die where it sizes the case. It will also size the case further down toward the rim. Most dies do NOT size the case all the way down to the rim. Trimming the die can be necessary and useful for either cause of insufficient case resizing. as long as too much is not removed. Removing that much should not be necessary unless the rifle chamber is out of spec. That is why RCBS states it will tell you iff your five fired cases are too big. All the die makers offer this service. Many competitive and most benchrest shooters use this service or have custom made dies to best match case diameter AND headspace to there competition guns. Harrells will make a "custom" die for most chambers if you send them 3 twice fired cases.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I have a friend who is retired from Remington and can't shoot heavy recoil due to a shoulder injury so he is taking up black gun.
He cruised over to Redding (where alot of retired Remington folks go for second career) and he knows the owner. He told him he needed a set of small base dies for 223 and was handed a standard set of 223 FL dies. He asked if he needed the SB dies and the response was to the effect that if he ran a case all the way in them that would not chamber and close it wasn't the fault of the dies. Come to find out Redding dies are chambered .008" short to <span style="text-decoration: underline">make sure the die contacts the shoulder and bumps it.</span> Thusly Redding is doing what I have been doing which is in effect chambering them "short" to make sure they could be adjusted enough to allow closure on tight headspaced rifles which we know we don't see on black guns.
This explains why I have had no die problems from Redding dies as they are already cut like the dies I have adjusted by removing base material allowing the case to go in and contact the shoulder for set back within new case range.
On a 7615 I have the first barrel was cut with a old reamer and the base on fired cases showed very little expansion. It was the nicest chamber I ever saw on a Remington. Sizing them in my FL dies allowed them to chamber and close easily. I had to send the rifle back due to a crooked bore and when it came back the fired cases show a marked swell which measures to the high side on the SAAMI chamber drawing.
The absolute finest chamber/factory ammo combo I ever saw is on a M1905 Mannlicher/Shoenauer Carbine in 9MM M/S. There is no visible case swell on bottom of case at all. The RCBS dies I got for it are great and a perfect match. If 358 Winchester wasn't easier (cheaper) I would have had a reamer made based on a fired case from that rifle but not being a standard caliber, the reamer cost would have been up there plus I have a pile of 308 brass and very little 8MM brass to fireform up to 9MM.

AMU chambers on M14s ran the range years ago. Once every M14 they were shooting left a ring mid point on the case body due to a dent in the reamer. You could tell their cases at five feet from others. All is completely changed now and they have a CNC set up and they change out every 700 rounds on 5.56. It is all so close they can change barrels over night and shooter will still be in 10 ring at 200 next morning requiring min sight change.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

That certainly makes sense and I'm sure saves Redding a lot of trouble. In the end the best case is where the headspace setting and taper of the dies most closely matches the chamber of the rifle they are actually being used for. Custom dies match both very well. The dies design will determine what this relationship will be if you trim them. The Redding set up is why they also tell you to ideally start with your die NOT touching the shell holder then slowly turn it in while checking for sized brass fit in YOUR chamber. This is the way I set my dies (which are mostly Redding). So far I have only found one set of dies RCBS 223 that would not headspace enough fer me for my very tight Compass Lake chamber. So I've personally ended up needing small base dies on 2 occasions and a trimmed die only once.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

JCumming, do you have a MO Gage? I am just wondering how tight Frank is cutting his headspace? This is good to know and puts his gas gun tube on my "I need one" list.

If you have a MO gage please measure your shoulder movement and let me know.
Also what are your base dimensions on fired cases?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Hummer:
I have wilson gauges, RCBS micro gauges, & stoney point gauges but no Mo's.
I also did not shoot any centerfire this past year due to 2 neck fusion surgeries. As a result all my brass has been processed and therefore not useful for measuring until I get to shoot again this Spring. I can look up in my records what the headspace measure with the RCBS gauge. I'm at work now so It'll have to wait until I get home. I can tell you that even mild loads from the Sierra manual routinely blew primers in my CLE upper until I learned how much I had to back off. I'll get back to you.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Hummer:
My records show that once fired brass from my CLE upper registered -0.001 on the RCBS Precision Mic. This was consistent for 20 pieces of brass. This was also 0.001 smaller than the same brass before it was fired. So the once fired brass was 0.001 BELOW SAAMI minimum headspace. I remember being surprised that I could NOT push the headspace back at all with my RCBS die until I honed down the shellholder. (that is another option by the way but make sure you keep that shellholder separate!) That solved the problem and allowed me to size back .002. It was 3 years later that I got another upper with a Wylde chamber. That was when I found that even if I set the headspace for the CLE upper brass still would not cycle properly after being fired in the Wylde chamber. The small base die solved that problem. I wish I could give you the headspace for the Wylde chamber but I apparently never wrote down. Anyway sizing the Brass from the Wylde chamber in the dies I had set up for my CLE upper would not result in them cycling properly. When I set up a small base die to size back to the CLE headspace the problem resolved. With all the 223 brass I have and the amount I normally shoot (around 6000 per year) it was much easier to go this route and know that the brass will work well even if it doesn't last. Beside, in all honesty with the loads I use it is not working the brass in the die that wears it out;). I hope this helps. I want to point out to every one that I am in no way complaining about Frank's work or chambers. I have 2 CLE uppers and am extremely happy with them. The are very accurate and dependable. It is just that it was a bit hard for me to get loads set up at first with no one else in my area using the CLE chamber and the fact that even starting with middle loads from the Sierra manual I was blowing primers alot at first. I think the key for others shooting service rifle is I would strongly recommend that you stick with one chamber so you don't have to set up different dies and keep separated loads and separate brassfor each upper. As it is I can't use the loads for my Wylde chambered upper in my CLE upper. I also can not use military ammo as it usually is too hot and blows primers. This is really a hassel when the primer drops down into the trigger during a match rendering the gun useless. Also, I know that it is quite possible if not likely that I just got one of Frank's tightest chambers.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

This is why you need a case gage.

A guy walks into a bar with his pet monkey. He orders a drink and while he's drinking, the monkey jumps all around the place. The monkey grabs some olives off the bar and eats them. Then he grabs some sliced limes and eats them. He then jumps onto the pool table and grabs one of the billiard balls. To everyone's amazement, he sticks it in his mouth, and somehow swallows it whole.
The bartender screams at the guy, 'Did you see what your monkey just did?'
'No, what?'
'He just ate the cue ball off my pool table... whole!'
'Yeah, that doesn't surprise me,' replied the guy, 'he eats everything in sight. Sorry! I'll pay for the cue ball and stuff.'
The guy finishes his drink, pays his bill, pays for the stuff the monkey ate and leaves.
Two weeks later the guy is in the bar again, and has his monkey with him. He orders a drink and the monkey starts running around the bar again.
While the man is finishing his drink, the monkey finds a maraschino cherry on the bar... He grabs it, sticks it up his butt, pulls it out, and eats it.
Then the monkey finds a peanut, and again sticks it up his butt, pulls it out, and eats it. The bartender is disgusted. 'Did you see what your monkey did now?'
'No, what?' replied the man.
'Well, he stuck a maraschino cherry and a peanut up his butt, pulled them out, and ate them!' said the bartender.
'Yeah, that doesn't surprise me,' replied the guy.
'He still eats everything in sight, but ever since he had to pass that cue ball, he measures everything first.'
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

I use a small base die so I can get one reload out of my rounds shot from my HK91 (you should see what it does to brass) other wise it stays in the box.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Okay, Mark! I'm sending you a bill for computer repair. I laughed so hard I dropped my laptop.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Interesting stuff.

In my factory bbl'd Savage .308 chamber, new brass measures 1.618 and fired comes out at 1.622. This is on a Stoney Point Headspace gauge. Those number's are vastly diff from what I see here on the prints from SAAMI, why is that?

http://www.saami.org/Publications/206.pdf

With a Redding press/shellholder/S-Type die, I HAVE to cam over to get it to bump my shoulders back .002 which is all I do when I size my brass.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

Mechanic, oh yeah I am very familiar with H&K chambers and what it does to brass.
Eddie, I was wondering why you had not commented on the above but then again with the guys you run with down there, you have probably seen it live ! ! haha.
JLM, I don't use Stoney Point Gages thusly cannot comment on them. I only know one guy around here who got any of their stuff and he got the one for measuring OAL.

1.634"-.007 for new ammo is what why my drawing calls for and 1.630 min headspace well.
By "comes out" is that from fired chamber or coming out of FL die?

Sending you a PM.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hummer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mechanic, oh yeah I am very familiar with H&K chambers and what it does to brass.
Eddie, I was wondering why you had not commented on the above but then again with the guys you run with down there, you have probably seen it live ! ! haha.
JLM, I don't use Stoney Point Gages thusly cannot comment on them. I only know one guy around here who got any of their stuff and he got the one for measuring OAL.

1.634"-.007 for new ammo is what why my drawing calls for and 1.630 min headspace well.
By "comes out" is that from fired chamber or coming out of FL die?

Sending you a PM.

</div></div>

Out of the chamber.
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JLM ®</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
In my factory bbl'd Savage .308 chamber, new brass measures 1.618 and fired comes out at 1.622. This is on a Stoney Point Headspace gauge. Those number's are vastly diff from what I see here on the prints from SAAMI, why is that?</div></div>

Because the Stoney Point comparator (or that devil-spawn RCBS Precision Mic) is really only useful for taking a *relative* measurement - i.e. how much did the headspace dimension change from virgin brass to fired, or from fired to sized. If you look closely at the hole on a Stoney Point insert, it has a teeny bit of chamfer/radius on it - which means it won't measure at *exactly* the point of the datum line on the shoulder in most scenarios. Even if it had a razor sharp edge there, with the material used it would probably deform fairly quickly. So they use a radiused edge, which relegates it to a relative reading.

If you take a set of headspace gauges such as those put out by Forster or others, you'll note they are marked 1.630" for the 'GO' gauge, and 1.634" for the NO-GO (for Forster, others use 1.636"). If you measure them with a set of SP comparators you'll get something less than 1.630"... in my case, 1.623" for the GO and 1.627" for the NO-GO. Given the amount of time and money and the material used to manufacture each... I tend to believe the headspace gauge as its marked
wink.gif


So take the measurements on the print as good-to-know information, but all that really matters for us (as far as headspace) is what your fired dimension is vs. what your sized dimension is. Did the die bump the shoulder back the intended amount or not?
 
Re: Do you really need SMALL BASE DIES?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memilanuk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JLM ®</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
In my factory bbl'd Savage .308 chamber, new brass measures 1.618 and fired comes out at 1.622. This is on a Stoney Point Headspace gauge. Those number's are vastly diff from what I see here on the prints from SAAMI, why is that?</div></div>

Because the Stoney Point comparator (or that devil-spawn RCBS Precision Mic) is really only useful for taking a *relative* measurement - i.e. how much did the headspace dimension change from virgin brass to fired, or from fired to sized. If you look closely at the hole on a Stoney Point insert, it has a teeny bit of chamfer/radius on it - which means it won't measure at *exactly* the point of the datum line on the shoulder in most scenarios. Even if it had a razor sharp edge there, with the material used it would probably deform fairly quickly. So they use a radiused edge, which relegates it to a relative reading.

If you take a set of headspace gauges such as those put out by Forster or others, you'll note they are marked 1.630" for the 'GO' gauge, and 1.634" for the NO-GO (for Forster, others use 1.636"). If you measure them with a set of SP comparators you'll get something less than 1.630"... in my case, 1.623" for the GO and 1.627" for the NO-GO. Given the amount of time and money and the material used to manufacture each... I tend to believe the headspace gauge as its marked
wink.gif


So take the measurements on the print as good-to-know information, but all that really matters for us (as far as headspace) is what your fired dimension is vs. what your sized dimension is. Did the die bump the shoulder back the intended amount or not? </div></div>

M, thanks for the GO gauge numbers on the Stoney Point.

Last night I measured cases on the (as you say) dreaded Precision Mic. According to the destructions the 0 on the mic should be 0 on a GO Gauge, ie 1.630.

Unfired rounds gauged 1.627
Fired LC cases measured: 1.629-5

Sooooo, my chamber is slightly BELOW min. Probably explains why I gotta cam over with my Redding goodies to knock my shoulders back .002.

But I still don't need Small Bases dies
smile.gif
Even for 1x fired LC brass that came out of big honkin chambers. I suspect the stuff I have came out of M14's probably. It was pretty long to the datum line on the Stoney Point.

Interesting discussion gents.