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Education needed - AR 10 problem (Gas system)

jbrywill

Private
Minuteman
Aug 29, 2019
7
0
I having started diving deeper into gas guns a bit more than "oh that's cool". I have a Savage MSR 10 Long Range in 6.5 Creedmoor with a Magpul UBR stock It has a 22" barrel with rifle+ length gas port and an adjustable gas block. My issue is that I'm having consistent 2 o'clock ejections and its beating the mess out of my brass when I adjust the gas block just one notch I start having feeding issues. I have spoken to a few different spring and buffer companies and have gotten mixed answers. One said go heavy on the spring with a light buffer, one said the exact opposite, one told me to go as heavy as I can on both and lastly one said to turn the gas block down as much as I can and go with a light spring and buffer. I'm not worried about recoil, I want the best performance and reliability out of my rifle. Does anyone have any recommendations or actual evidence for any of the combos?

Lastly does any of the have any effect on the projectile's performance?

Thanks.
 
I can get a picture but it's hitting the brass deflector and going forward so hard it's taking paint off the upper. It leaves a small indention on the cases.
 
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There are the pics. Small indent on the case and paint chipped on the upper. I think the bolt is coming back too fast and slamming the case into the upper not the deflector.
 
Haha, I am still learning. If this is normal, cool, I'll be about my day.
 
Man, I'm the last guy to give advice on a gas issue as I'm currently having an issue with my .308...and I'll be drilling out my gas port as soon as the bits arrive.

That being said, even a small dent in the middle of a case is frustrating, but there are a ton of guys out there wrecking brass wayyyy worse than that particular photo shows.

The ejection pattern is perhaps more problematic, and if you can't tune it with an adjustable gas block then maybe you'll either have to try several buffers and springs, or get something like an adjustable JP silent capture. Someone with a lot more experience than me will hopefully chime in.

As long as your rifle runs reliably now with everything you feed it, you've got a leg up on some of us.
 
That's why I asked because that is not a 2 o'clock ejection. I would take your ejector out and look and see if it has a little rubber o ring, if it does remove it and test. Another solution is to take your ejector spring and clip a 1/16th off the spring, this will tame down the pressure and force of the ejection of the brass... And, that is not that bad for a gasser on brass.
 
I appreciate the responses guys, I'll look in to what eklarsen recommended. The rifle does have dual ejectors. Man I'll have to look up some really wrecked brass, haha. Thanks guys
 
How does the rifle shoot? Is your concern about the brass damage? Put a small piece of adhesive backed fuzzy Velcro strip on the deflector (the mark on it will tell you where). This will cushion the impact just enough. Being black, it will be almost invisible on the upper. Or, get a brass catcher.
 
I think the rifle shoots well with my limited training, I've shot it out to 200yrds and stayed moa with factory ammo(mostly Federal AE 120gr, the gun isn't a huge fan of the 140s). I've hunted since I young and you don't need a submoa rifle to kill a whitetail so I never practiced target shooting. Once I had my rifle set and I wasn't missing deer I never went back to the range. My concern was that I was reading so much on the 4o'clock ejection, and mine was not, is there something wrong. My rifle came with a PRS gen 3 and I took it off for my UBR gen 2, and I never shot it with the PRS to see it's factory ejection pattern.