Gunsmithing Epoxy or steel bedding compound or what?

[thefiremeister]

I have a wood Varmint stock for a Savage. I sent it of to a gunsmith ( one that gets high praise around here) and had in inletted for bottom metal. The stock came back with the bottom metal set back so far the gun won't pull a round out of the magazine.

I'd like to try and move the bottom metal forward a bit but if I do that I'd like to use something to fill in the space behind the mag well that wont crack or come apart. I'm thinking I'll have to fill in about a 1/16th gap.

Any suggestions?

 

[ugsly]

If you only need 1/16" you can probably get away with removing some material away from the bolt stop not messing with the floor plate.

Kc

 

[Pinecone]

Maybe contact the gunsmith?

I would expect that a good gunsmith would pay to have it sent back, fix it, and send it back to you QUICKLY.

Otherwise, name names.

 

[thefiremeister]

The gun smith did attempt to make good on the stock. He replaced the wood one with a Chote Tactical which I sold and re bought an another wood varmint. The old varmint was total done and set up for me and the was the last thing I wanted done to it. Id like to attempt to save it. what ever I do to it now won't hurt it because its basically fire wood now.

I have the rifle in a HS precision at the moment. I like that one alot.

 

[wnroscoe]

I have a wood Varmint stock for a Savage. I sent it of to a gunsmith ( one that gets high praise around here) and had in inletted for bottom metal. The stock came back with the bottom metal set back so far the gun won't pull a round out of the magazine.

I'd like to try and move the bottom metal forward a bit but if I do that I'd like to use something to fill in the space behind the mag well that wont crack or come apart. I'm thinking I'll have to fill in about a 1/16th gap.

Any suggestions?

When you say "Too far back to pick up a round" do you mean the bottom metal itself or the magazine? Is this a DBM or BDL style. Either way it should be an easy fix and the stock should be able to be saved. I'm thinking a refit/bed of the bottom metal. Pictures??

 

[thefiremeister]

I'll get some pics but the bottom metal installed to far back. The bold does not go past the round in the magazine when its pulled to the rear.

CDI bottom metal with AI mags.

 

[wnroscoe]

I'll get some pics but the bottom metal installed to far back. The bold does not go past the round in the magazine when its pulled to the rear.

CDI bottom metal with AI mags.

Get two headless screws that will thread into the receiver, 3" should work. These are also known as stock maker screws. You might be able to find them at an auto parts store as long bolts, just cut the heads off. Take the DBM and barreled receiver out of the stock, install the long screws in the receiver and place it back in the stock. Now, install the DBM but don't force it into the inlet. This will show you exactly how much forward the DBM needs to go. From what you say the bottom line is this, the DBM needs to move forward slightly. This means possibly milling out any DBM bedding that may be present or extending the front tab on the DBM forward. Brownell's sells bedding epoxy than can be tinted brown to match wood stocks. The product your looking for is called Acraglas Gel, ACRAGLAS GEL® | Brownells

Use this to bed the front and rear tabs of the DBM in place after you fix the dry fit. Bedding that takes place inside of the stock around the DBM is secondary in the way of accuracy to bedding the tabs of the DBM. Take your time and it'll work out OK. Sounds like the dry fit was never checked and function suffered. Good luck.

 

[thefiremeister]

Ok Thanks for the link. I'll get out my grinder, dremel, and chisels and have at it.

 

[thefiremeister]

Get two headless screws that will thread into the receiver, 3" should work. These are also known as stock maker screws. You might be able to find them at an auto parts store as long bolts, just cut the heads off. Take the DBM and barreled receiver out of the stock, install the long screws in the receiver and place it back in the stock. Now, install the DBM but don't force it into the inlet. This will show you exactly how much forward the DBM needs to go. From what you say the bottom line is this, the DBM needs to move forward slightly. This means possibly milling out any DBM bedding that may be present or extending the front tab on the DBM forward. Brownell's sells bedding epoxy than can be tinted brown to match wood stocks. The product your looking for is called Acraglas Gel, ACRAGLAS GEL® | Brownells

Use this to bed the front and rear tabs of the DBM in place after you fix the dry fit. Bedding that takes place inside of the stock around the DBM is secondary in the way of accuracy to bedding the tabs of the DBM. Take your time and it'll work out OK. Sounds like the dry fit was never checked and function suffered. Good luck.

I've got all the tools to do this with including the stock maker screws. I think I'm going to just rebed the whole stock.

I was worried about having a thin layer of bedding in the back of the bottom metal/mag well area getting beat up ( thats why I was asking whats better ) but if I refit the bottom metal, rough up the stock where I know bedding material is going to be and make sure the stock and recoil lug area is properly bedded that should do it.

The stock is junk now anyway so I can't really hurt it any more.

Thanks for the input.