equipment checklist help + ?s

[cegha]

<span style="font-style: italic">Let me start by saying this is going to be a very long read in regards to my (planned) reloading setup. I’m looking for opinions on if everything is looking like quality stuff & any opinions or recommendations on stuff I may be missing. You don’t have to answer all my questions, but helping with one or 2 at least would be appreciated.</span>

This is also posted on m4carbine.net, just seeing if I can get some more opinions from this forum too. The more the better.

Hello guys I’m getting into reloading. I’m just starting to piece together everything that I will need to get stuff done. I’m wanting opinions on how this setup looks & if there is anything that I should change. I will mostly be loading plinking/range quality ammo, not match grade (at least not for another 6 months). I plan to in the future add more stuff to make match grade ammo like a meplat trimmer, & other fancy equipment. For right now though on the stuff I do have to have to get started I’m going to opt for match grade components on stuff I do need right now.

I already purchased a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP. I got this press from a fellow forum member for an excellent price along with +/- 500 once fired 223 rem brass thrown in the deal for free. At this time I’m going to be loading for 4 different calibers. 380, 9x18mak, 9mm luger, & 223 rem.

Let’s start with my die setups. Most of them I’m going with high quality redding dies.
Redding Pro Series Die Set 380 ACP – item #89170
Redding Competition Pro Series 9mm – item #58172
Redding .223 Type-S Match Bushing Full Die Set – item #36111

Now my 9x18mak is where questionability comes in. Redding apparently makes really crappy 9x18mak dies. They’re steel & not even carbide, so I would have to lube pistol cases, which I’m not looking to have to lube more cases than necessary. With that in mind I’ve got a set of Hornady 9x18mak dies on my list. However I understand it’s preferred to seat & crimp in 2 separate stations, rather than the same die. The Hornady set is carbide which is the plus to them, but they seat/crimp on the same die. Does any company make good 9x18mak dies that are carbide & seat/crimp on separate dies? I don’t really need an expanding die as I plan to order an expander from powerfunnels.com which expands at the powder station freeing up another station to allow me to have separate seat/crimp dies.

Like I just mentioned I plan on getting a expander from powerfunnels.com so I can combine a station into the powder charge to free up another station to run a RCBS lockout die. On there website they say “Flares all calibers from 30 to 50”. I’m not 100% sure what that means. All I need to know is will this work for 380, 9x18mak, 9mm, & 223 rem? Yes or no. If no which ones will it not work with. How long does it take to adjust the expander when switching calibers? Are we talking 30 seconds or 10 minutes? If it’s too much of a pain in the ass, I will just buy 4, one for each caliber & label them so I can just swap them out when changing calibers.

Next die question is in regards to the RCBS lockout die. I will be running one (for one since I’m new to reloading) & even if I was a vet I would still do it for safety purposes. Can I get away with just one or should I buy 4 & set one for each caliber I’m loading? If I was to only buy one, how long (approx.) would it take to adjust it when switching calibers? Are we talking 30 seconds or 10 minutes? I notice the RCBS lockout die says it only works with 9mm & larger calibers. Does this mean I can’t use it for the 380 & 9x18mak. I would think not for the 380 but the 9x18mak is SOO close to 9mm luger could it be used at least with that caliber? If it can’t be used with the 380 (I want to have some form of checker), would the hornady powder cop at least work with 380?

Next I’m going to grab a tumbler as well. I’ve researched around for a while on this too. I’ve come to conclusion of the complete package at stainlesstumblingmedia.com. A rotary tumbler with 5lbs of stainless media. These things seem to be the best out there & also quiet from the reviews I’ve read. Buy media once & reuse forever is nice too. How does that look for a tumbling/brass cleaning setup? I like that it also cleans inside & outside of the cases. If I deprime them before tumbling them the primer pockets should get cleaned to, which would eliminate doing that step by hand, correct?

I plan to order a micrometer insert for the hornady powder station. Write down where each caliber needs to be & then just adjust each time. Sound good?

For my trimming setup I’m planning on the L.E. Wilson hand trimmer with micrometer on it. That way again I can just write it down & instantly adjust between calibers. This will only be necessary for the .223 & I’m planning on just picking up a ton of once fired 9mm brass & trimming it down to 9x18 specs. I see once fired brass all over gunbroker, but not really any 9x18. Most 9x18 is berdan primed wolf/bear that people shoot. I plan to mark the trimmed 9mm with sharpie so I know not to load it to 9mm specs or use it in my 9mm’s. I’m already aware that the sharpie will come off when tumbled, but only batches of trimmed 9mm will go in at a time so there will be no confusion & they will be remarked after tumbling.

For my Wilson trimmer, would yall recommend a carbide cutter blade to start with or just wait a while for the stock one to dull up? I know carbide cutting blades are preferred, I just don’t know if there is a noticeable difference over the stock Wilson trimmer blade.

I was also planning on doing the chamfering/deburring on the Wilson as well with there “Inside / Outside Deburring Tool”. I don’t quite understand how it attaches to the Wilson though if anyone cares to explain. Any other recommendations or alternative case prep ways? Yes I have looked into the Giraud I just think it’s outside my budget & I don’t care to wait like 5 years (exaggerating) for one. I mean a Wilson with power attachment should be “pretty” close to a Giraud.

Is the neck reamer tool from Wilson needed for 223 rem?

I’m planning on buying once fired 223 brass off gunbroker. Once fired brass is sure of a lot cheaper than brand new brass & it’s “almost” as good. It will be fine for range time/plinking, which is what I’m aiming for right now anyways. So I know that a lot of this once fired brass is mixed headstamp & probably most is mil. So I know there is that annoying crimp problem. I was just planning on getting the Dillon Swager, since this is the best, quickest, & easiest tool for that job. Good choice there?

These are all my questions for right now, I may edit or just add a new post when new ones come up.

 

[jet_lagged]

Re: equipment checklist help + ?s

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=727371

Lee dies are relatively inexpensive, but they work fine. So I would give them a try for the Mak. If you want to seat and crimp in separate stations just pick up whichever of the 2 is cheaper used someplace, like eBay. Or use the 9mm crimp die and swap it back and forth as needed. For pistol shooting, I don't really know if "pro" or "competition" dies will make any difference. But you do want carbide. Or can use use a regular 9mm Luger die for the 9mm Mak, is that is the brass you are going to be using???

I have never had a lock-out die on the press. If you double charge almost any powder, it will spill out over the case rim, or be very noticable when you put the bullet on the case mouth to seat it. So not really need as far as I can tell. Not putting powder in the case and creating a squib round is a different story. But hopefully, you are paying some attention to what you are doing.

Are you going to be reloading .223 for a bolt gun or a semi-auto/AR?

If bolt, do you really want to full length size each time? Probably not. So then you instead want a neck only bushing die for most of the time, and a full length die for occasionally bumping the shoulder back.

If semi-auto, do you really want/need the neck bushing style of die?

For semi-auto, I would just use a full length sizer with a carbide expander ball. Very light taper crimp may or may not be desired, depending on your application. I use the Dillon .223 die set for the AR. It comes with the carbide ball, so you don't have to buy it extra, and also the crimp die. And it has a really strong decapping pin, which also works as a stuck case remover for the die. So a good package to look at when you put everything together.

Dillon swager works well.

Neck reamer should not be needed for .223

A Wilson or Dillon case length gage for the .223 will be useful for setting the die up for correct headspace. Or you can do trial and error and size a few pieces and see if they fit your chamber.