I have a 16 inch mid length upper that currently has a 9 inch Daniel Defense Omega rail on it. I would like to put a 13-15 inch hand guard on that doesn't require the removal of the barrel nut. I am looking at the Troy Alpha Rail. Does the Troy work like it should? Are there others I should be looking at?
- Thread starter Nosler243Shooter
- Start date
Do your self a favor and at least look at the KMR. I assume your reason for keeping the stock nut is due to a lack of tools and/or experience. I reality changing out a handguard including R&R the MD (if not pinned), GB and nut shouldn't take an experienced gun plumber 30-45 minutes to do. Don't select one based on the use of the GI nut.
I agree with GH41 but if you are dead set on getting a rail that accepts the GI barrel nut also take a look at the Centurion C4 rail. The BCM KMR is hella easy to install though without the need for many tools, in fact it comes with most of the ones you'll need. To install mine I used a hex wrench for the gas block screws, a t-15 wrench for the cross bolts, a $17 torque wrench from Pep Boys, the supplied barrel nut tool, an AR Armorer's tool, Shooter's Choice grease, CLP, and blow dryer. It took all of about 30 minutes like GH41 said.
Thanks for the replies. I'm not really comfortable with swapping the barrel nut off myself. Can you run into a head space problem if you put the nut on incorrectly? What are the advantages of using a rail that supplies its on barrel nut? The KMR is really nice but I would like to know the advantages of the aftermarket barrel nut.
Centurion c4
Midwest gen 2
Midwest gen 2
The Midwest Gen II uses a proprietary barrel nut, it looks similar to a GI nut but it's longer and knurled to provide more surface area for the inside of the rail to grab when the screws are torqued down.
Swapping barrel nuts is a breeze. Headspace is set when the barrel extension is installed on the barrel. All a barrel nut does is hold the barrel to the receiver and gives the hand guard something to mount too. There are a handful of different barrel nut styles and the difference is mostly to accommodate the style of hand guard you're running and no one style is really better than the other. Find the hand guard you like and swap the barrel nut if you need to. It's righty tighty, lefty loosey like most other stuff.
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The KMR barrel nut is also sized so that you do not have to index it to the gas tube port on the receiver. You simply screw it on and torque down to about 45 ft/lbs, that in my opinion is a huge plus. It's also crazy light and strong.
Look at the MI Gen 2, no barrel nut removal... Takes about 15-20 minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV6KexkDk-0#action=share
After doing more research on the KMR, I have decided to go with it. After the head space issue was cleared up I now believe I can do this. I will have to get a few tools first but I am going to go with a 15 inch KMR.
You made the right choice going with a KMR! I would still suggest having a professional install it. Here is a list of what you will need to do it yourself. A sturdy vise, soft jaws to R&R the muzzle devise, quality punch to R&R the gas block if pinned, A reaction rod to R&R the barrel nut, moly grease, torque wrench and a heat gun. This doesn't include the torx, hex or allen wrenches for the small hardware on both rails or wrench to get the DD rail off. Not trying to scare you because it is really an easy job if you have the tools.
I went with a Fortis REV rail, right in the length you're looking for.
