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Rifle Scopes F3R MACHINE

ACK

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 20, 2004
396
213
So. Ca
Found into this website and I noticed the sale on scope mounts. I am tempted to purchase a non-cantilever version.

Anyone using them? They appear to be quite robust although the clamping space on the cantilever mount is quite short.

F3R machine

Thanks
 
I just bought one.. Should be here this week! Ill update when I mount my ATACR on it.
 
Hmm. They look fine, probably Chinese as there is no made in information.
 
Just got mine today. Super solid! I think it’s USA made too!
 

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They do say made in the USA. Went reading looking for glaring grammatical errors or odd phrased English like you get with some Chinese websites ment for an American audience.

I almost get this dude in a garage type of vibe though lol. Like somebody who works and programs CNC and has his own machine or has access to one at work.
 
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I have two of them here,

Very nice no-nonsense mounts,

I think they are a good option for people, they have a bigger local company making them I had a sticker or paper from the machine shop in my box, they are local, at least it reads that way to me
 
I almost get this dude in a garage type of vibe though lol. Like somebody who works and programs CNC and has his own machine or has access to one at work.

I feel like a lot of the common names we know now started off this way.
 
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I have two of them here,

Very nice no-nonsense mounts,

I think they are a good option for people, they have a bigger local company making them I had a sticker or paper from the machine shop in my box, they are local, at least it reads that way to me
They def seem local to me too.
 
Those of you who have one, how are you liking it? Can you post some pictures and what height mount you went with?
 
Funny this poped up. I was looking for this thread yesterday and couldn't remember the name or find the thread.

I hope they make a lower 34mm mount
 
Man why can't these guys put a bubble level inside mount right above the rear pic rail interface? No integrated level, just like the mpa mount. Did spuhr/tier-one somehow patent it?
What is the benefit to the bubble level inside the mount? Is it just to be certain the mount is in fact level? I would think the scope bubble level would be more important. This is coming from someone completely new to this so genuine question. Thanks.
 
It's a waste of time to put a level in a mount, sure there is an argument for using it during mounting of the scope, but just like a level on the rifle, there is a right way and wrong way.

The mounts inside are a placebo
 
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Rail levels never work ...

The action, the rail, the scope are all different, you have to work on two of the three physically to align them and no out of the box rifle is square that way

The reticle only cares about gravity, nothing else, so in order to match that reticle to gravity, you need to time the level.

The action and rail dont' matter in this equation
 
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Frank,

Do you have a preferred method for the timing of the scope tube levels?

I remeber your podcast with regina and her inner ear problem. Was solved with getting checkout by the doctor.

I am avid spuhr mount user. But i do know that nothing is ever square even on my AIAT and my spuhr mount. However i rarely ever use the level in the spuhr mpunt. I have always understood from my palma background when i was started shoot at 18, that your brain has its own way to lining things up.


I am also an avid listener to the everyday sniper.
 
I have 4 of these mounts, excellent mounts for a great price. I'll likely buy more of them in the future as I need them, as well as accessories that will become available.
 
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Frank,

Do you have a preferred method for the timing of the scope tube levels?

I remeber your podcast with regina and her inner ear problem. Was solved with getting checkout by the doctor.

I am avid spuhr mount user. But i do know that nothing is ever square even on my AIAT and my spuhr mount. However i rarely ever use the level in the spuhr mpunt. I have always understood from my palma background when i was started shoot at 18, that your brain has its own way to lining things up.


I am also an avid listener to the everyday sniper.

I don't mount levels if I can help it, but when I do or instruct others, I use a 4ft level

I like putting a level out, aligning the reticle to the level and then matching the level to it.

I tend to go with a natural hold, it sort of depends on the adjustability of the stock, whether the rifle is straight or has my slight personal cant to it, but if I am going level rifle with level scopes, I am matching the flat of the scope to the flat of the rail, then with the reticle aligned to the 4ft level I set the bubble,

IMG_2120.JPG

3m8s9uqmkvu37cw2fvdqzcsfgradazzhpb5qb25n9ug64jc5wqaxa.jpg
 
thanks frank, i think i am gonna follow your lead and not worry about the level on the scope then. But rather train my head/eyes with a level down range to set a good baseline of what is level.
 
@lowlight

I was advised a few years ago that hanging a string or something with a weight works as well (gravity should keep it straight). Thoughts?

i know it may not be as scientific as your way, but within my ability and range it’s been good for me.
 
Rail levels never work ...

Can you elaborate on this?

How would "timing" your scope to a rail or chassis mounted level NOT work?

Meaning: have the bubble level "level" and then slightly rotate the scope in the rings to get the reticle to match a plumb or a level.

I don't think people put them on and expect them to be instantly square with the reticle.

The scope tube mounted level would definitely be easier to set up, but I'm curious to why you say rail levels never work.

Edited: Genuine question, not trying to be smart ass.
 
Unless you have a gunsmith square the action to the rail, a rail mounted level will not work, and after doing all that work why both with a level.

You have a scope, Rings, Rail, and Action, you think putting a level on one is gonna be right with the rest?

Vs

Putting the level on the thing you are leveling.

Exhibit A
IMG_0002.JPG
 
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Unless you have a gunsmith square the action to the rail, a rail mounted level will not work, and after doing all that work why both with a level.

You have a scope, Rings, Rail, and Action, you think putting a level on one is gonna be right with the rest?

Vs

Putting the level on the thing you are leveling.

Exhibit A
View attachment 7286105

I think I may have failed at explaining myself, I don't actually use a level either but I thought I understood the principal behind non scope tube mounted levels.

I understand the action, rail, rings, whatever not being square with each other.

Here's another example: using a chassis like a McRee/MPA/XLR Envy/ect... With a built in bubble level.

1) Get the chassis/rail mounted bubble level centered or leveled.

2) Without moving the rest of the rifle, rotate the scope in the scope rings so that the reticle matches a plumb line.

So when the chassis or rail mounted level is level the reticle will be too. Doesn't matter about the rail or any other physical relationship on the system.
 
Bubbles built into the stock are a complete waste of time and there have been articles and posts showing them not lining up with the reticle

Install Bubble on Barrel LOL really the barrel is round, and what says it's cut right

Total waste of time above, all those bubbles are not doing you anything

you guys are being lied too and sold useless products, and when we explain this you want to buy even more bubbles, LOL

Anytime you want to see you are wasting time and money let me know
 
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Bubbles built into the stock are a complete waste of time and there have been articles and posts showing them not lining up with the reticle

...that's why you physically rotate the scope to get the reticle to match a plumb line while the chassis level is GTG. This has been my point this entire time.

What's the difference between rotating a tube-mounted level about the scope VS rotating the scope to match another level.
THAT is the question at hand.

Mechanical levels of all the other components have no effect on this.

I can't comment on the other guys post as I found it confusing as well, but I personally do not use levels and have nothing vested other than wanting to know why.
 
You point is wrong,

They are not always machined correctly and it only takes a tiny bit to throw them off *see my picture*

I am done debating it, do what you want, if you want to waste your money and time that is on you.

The stocks are LEVEL and the bubbles are off, every one of the most recent MPA stocks I have seen with newer bubble has been off level when the shooter is behind it. If the bubbles are off your level is off.

The stock and scopes will not match just like the picture i posted if the housing is off
IMG_0002.JPG

This is WHY
 
Here is the deal, I see 100s if not close to a 1000 different shooters a year with this stuff,

Canting, leveling, rifle set up we deal with on a daily basis, we do a majority of basic classes to new shooters where this is an issue and it's always guys who are anal-retentive trying to suppress their ADD how are the problems,

You can go over the top and try to level every aspect of the rifle, to an unlevel shooter, or you can level the reticle to gravity and set up the rifle to the shooter. I guarantee my rifle being set up with a scope that is matched to the rail via a set of business cards is every bit as level as mounting 4 levels on a rifle.

You cannot level the rifle to the world and then attach a person to it and think it will work the same every time. We are all different, some people will take the time to bend themselves to the rifle, or smart people will set the rifle up to the shooter so they are not fighting.

Guys act like Canting a rifle is a mechanical thing, it might physically cant, but it's your brain on subconscious level doing it or at least making it happen. Tightening your bipod correctly is a 10x better option for fixing level than investing in a $6 level in a $100 wrapper.

The stocks are not right, we have plenty of evidence to this fact
 
Just sitting here wondering how in the holy hell anyone could take exception to "Exhibit A" ?????

Anyhow, thanks for the lead on a solid, simple uniblock scope mount. They look really bombproof. I wish I had known about these products a few weeks ago.

Because it has nothing to do with the argument!

A bubble/spirit establishes a horizontal line/reference point. The intended relationship is to have the reticle in the scope at that same moment be aligned with a plumb line.

You can achieve this by using a scope tube mounted bubble, where the level its self rotates about the scope. (Everything else being fixed but the level)

OR

Rotate the scope/reticle to match a fixed bubble level (wherever it may be, but everything else being fixed but the scope)

They're all physically attached to the same system so the relationship will remain/be repeatable. Meaning when the bubble level is LEVEL the reticle will be in alignment with a plumb line.

Both ways are doing the same thing! If you believe in one, the other most work as well. It's REALLY simple.

Apologies to the OP for derailing the thread, maybe a separate thread/or visual graphic is needed.
 
On the topic from the OP, it’s a fanatic mount made my a great guy. I talked to the owner of the company, he machines them in Wisconsin. They are designed off features he wanted to see in a mount at a price he wanted. I have one and it’s definitely my beefiest Mount, but I have zero worries about it ever shifting or moving. I’ve never had the blessed chance of using sphur mounts but I am very satisfied with this so I don’t feel the need to move up to one.