Gunsmithing FAL Headspace question

[BWYoda]

I recently had an inch pattern L1A1 assembled by a gunsmith from a British parts kit on an Imbel inch-pattern receiver. I took it to the range for the first time today and was experiencing failures to feed and eject with the correct inch-pattern mags. Exchanging the mags and adjusting the gas pressure made no difference. I'm using NATO stamped 7.62 ammo, but the nose of the round seems to be binding against each feed ramp, and I've had to pound the charging handle to eject the spent brass after about .5 inch of travel on the bolt carrier. I'm wondering what could be causing this. I also noted that the barrel washer he installed while it seems to time the barrel correctly is too large in diameter and does not allow the handguards to sit flush. I'm an M4 armorer but have little experience with gunsmithing a FAL so my question is two-fold to all you FAL buffs out there - firstly, what could be causing these failures and secondly are there different diameter barrel washers available for these weapons? Thanks in advance guys - any input much appreciated!

 

[nicholst55]

Re: FAL Headspace question

First off, I have zero experience with inch-pattern FALs. From your description, you could be experiencing any number of problems, so I'm going to suggest that you post this at the FAL Files forum and let the more knowledgeable folks there help out.

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/index.php

 

[AlterEgo]

Re: FAL Headspace question

Firstoff, if the case doesn't eject, the pogo is the typical method du jour to eject. Basically hold rifle by the charging handle and bash the butt against the bench or whatever. Muzzle discipline is obviously important.

Does the rifle shoot to point of aim? Where is the rear sight windage wise? (this is seeing if the barrel is timed correctly)

Handguard washer should not affect the handguards at all, should sit flush.

Problems you describe are indicative of too little gas or recoil system binding. You could start with the recoil spring in the buttstock, remove it and clean thoroughly. LIGHT lube. Also check that gas piston and bolt/carrier slide freely.

Was rifle newly parked?

Also, does rifle have 2 separate feed ramps (like an M4) or one?

 

[AIAWinAU]

Re: FAL Headspace question

Built a couple of L1A1's in my time - but fired many thousands of rounds through them, while we still had them here in Australia that is.

My experience is limited to Australian pattern L1A1's - which for all intents & purposes are identical to the British L1A1's anyway except for the furniture.

A couple of things to look at :

1. With the bolt removed form the carrier, & the rifle cracked open does the carrier slide freely back & forth in the upper ? Does the cocking handle engage only on the rearward stroke ? With the rifle closed, & the dust cover removed so you can see inside the action, does the carrier travel smoothly to the rear of the action against the recoil spring ? You may feel some slight binding as the carrier depresses the hammer.

If any of these actions seem rough let me know.

2. Repeat the above test with the bolt inserted in the carrier, what we are looking for now is possibly the bolt binding in the camways inside the carrier, or on the shoulder locking ( locking shoulder ) as the bolt moves into the locked position.

3. Gas system - remove the gas piston spring, will the gas piston move freely inside the gas tube ? If you elevate the rifle can you see the gas piston freely move back against the carrier ?

4. Gas plug - make sure that it is in the right way. If you dont know how to tell just ask.

The breeching washers did come in a range of thickness choices, but only one overall diameter. Maybe a FAL type one is fitted ?

Ok - thats a few for a start - let me know the answers - I am sure we can work this one out.

The L1A1 is a great rifle, highly dependable & very accurate when you learn how to shoot them properly.

I miss mine terribly at times.

 

[AlterEgo]

Re: FAL Headspace question

On tikkat3's post, for some reason #3 resonates most with me. You'll need the buttstock tool though, or they'll be FAL parts entering a low orbit from your neighborhood!

Does it feed ok when releasing bolt from bolt hold open?

tikkat3, are there any special techniques one should bear in mind to minimize the effects of the two-legged accuracy ruiner attached to the stock of my FALs?

 

[427Cobra]

Re: FAL Headspace question

You don't need a butt stock tool to check the gas piston, but under no circumstance remove the buffer springs without the correct tool.

 

[Pat M]

Re: FAL Headspace question

Get a long philips screwdriver that fits the rear buttstock and use your hand to unscrew it (it's not that bad). And check to see it the gas hole through barrel is clogged (turn gas adjust so you can push a allen wrench through and through.

 

[AIAWinAU]

Re: FAL Headspace question

Umm - Alter Ego - no special tools are needed to remove the gas piston spring. You just remove the gas plug & remove the piston, then seperate the spring from the piston which is just a friction fit at best anyways. You dont need a buttstock tool as you should be working at the other end of the rifle !

The purpose of point 3 was to try to establish if the barrel is indeed vertical & therefore enabling unrestricted for & aft movement of the gas piston which drives the bolt carrier rearward. If things aint vertical they bind up.

As far as accuracy ruiniers go - focus on the foresight, and drive the trigger correctly ! Seriously it depends how you are shooting the rifle. We used them for many years in competitions all over the Commonwealth and found them to be a very accurate rifle. No they are not a 1000 yard M14 but then again they are not as fragile as a match gun either. My old SLR would happily do a 5 round 1 MOA group from prone with a sling all day long will ball ammo. Thats iron sights, no optics.

 

[AlterEgo]

Re: FAL Headspace question

Gents sorry for the ramble, the special tool is for the buffer spring in the buttstock.