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Feeling the need for a 6.5 Creed...moor. Recommendations please.

Well the barrel was crap. There were air pockets in the lands. Also, the lands were rough. Looked like little metal shards ever where.

This just increased the cost. A BN Krieger bbl is on the way. Add $360 to the build and the cost of install. Also, since it’s getting a new bbl the action will be trued too. I imagine the cost just jumped up another $800.00 overall.

So this, plus my own experience with my 300WM, has got me seriously thinking about learning some gunsmithing. Today I watched about four hours of how to videos on blueprinting receivers and measuring/cutting/fitting new barrels. I've done a lot of less critical machine work on my guns in the past so, this is probably a logical next step for me.

Good luck with your project. Sounds like it will be quite nice!

Bob
 
So this, plus my own experience with my 300WM, has got me seriously thinking about learning some gunsmithing. Today I watched about four hours of how to videos on blueprinting receivers and measuring/cutting/fitting new barrels. I've done a lot of less critical machine work on my guns in the past so, this is probably a logical next step for me.

Good luck with your project. Sounds like it will be quite nice!

Bob

In the meantime you can do a remage type barrel with a barrel nut to stop wasting time, energy and money on a barrel that isn’t meeting your needs or expectations.
 
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Another update: Since I am already in for a new bbl I decided to change the trigger out. This rifle is now getting a Trigger Tech trigger. Brownells had a 10% off coupon so I got the basic trigger tech for $135.00 delivered. This budget rifle if you compare it to a Tac Ops rifle ;)
This is why so many members, including myself, now recommend starting with a Tikka CTR or going straight to a Tac A1. Sure there are others, but the day that the Tikka T3X action becomes what the R700 is now/was to most people will be a better day for everyone. The Tikka action is stronger, smoother, lighter, and built many times better, ditto for the barrels stuck on the end of 'em. Sure, the starting price might be higher by a few bucks, but you're much further ahead and save time, money and headaches.
 
In the meantime you can do a remage type barrel with a barrel nut to stop wasting time, energy and money on a barrel that isn’t meeting your needs or expectations.

Do you think swapping to a remage barrel without truing the mating surface of the receiver and the bolt lugs/face, will still result in a significant improvement in performance? I've seen some videos about remage barrel swaps and the receivers/bolts usually look factory original.

Bob
 
This is why so many members, including myself, now recommend starting with a Tikka CTR or going straight to a Tac A1. Sure there are others, but the day that the Tikka T3X action becomes what the R700 is now/was to most people will be a better day for everyone. The Tikka action is stronger, smoother, lighter, and built many times better, ditto for the barrels stuck on the end of 'em. Sure, the starting price might be higher by a few bucks, but you're much further ahead and save time, money and headaches.

I hear you on that. Years ago I had a XCR Tactical and the barrel on that was great, however, the cost on it was 3x the amount as this rifle. That being said the idea the OP had was to build an economical rifle that could shoot and I thought why not try it. Obviously it didn't work out for me and now I am on the road to a custom rifle. I guess I could have just replaced the barrel and not trued that action to keep cost down, but that didn't make sense a the time.

So, the break down:

Rifle: $490.96
KGR Bravo: $383.00
New BBL: $360.00
Barrel work: $125.00
Action work: $350.00
Ceracote Soccom blue: $150
Trigger tech: $135.00

Cost of the only rifle: $1993.96

So, not bad for a custom rifle, but no where near the budget build idea I thought it was going to be. I should have never bore scoped the damn thing, lol.

Edit: Just found a Tikka T3 T3x Tac A1 Bolt 6.5 Creedmoor 24" for $1798.00. All though more expensive than the budget build I was looking at doing, it's less than the full custom I am getting now. BTW it looks badass!

7525-814328.jpg
 
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You can find Tikka Tac A1's for $1650-$1800 all day. You're getting a rifle that already shoots .5 MOA, many shoot even better with the right guy behind the trigger/good glass/reloads or quality factory loads. Shoot out the barrel and screw in a Bartlein and it will be even more accurate. Trigger on both are great, but can be improved with a $10 spring. There's a lot to be said for just being "done". That's what the Tikkas give you. Gunsmiths will outright tell you it's a waste of time and money for them to do any action work on a Tikka. So for, call it, $1800 out the door for either a CTR + Chassis or Tac A1, you're done spending money. You'll be further ahead of most R700 builds that aren't fully custom too.

The only reason to NOT go for a Tac A1 or CTR + Chassis is...Not many really. I guess if you just "want" to have the highest end of the highest end in the form of action/barrel/chassis/workmanship, then you can go custom and spend $4,000+ with ease.
 
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Do you think swapping to a remage barrel without truing the mating surface of the receiver and the bolt lugs/face, will still result in a significant improvement in performance? I've seen some videos about remage barrel swaps and the receivers/bolts usually look factory original.

Bob

The determining factor will be how close is the OEM Remmy action to 100% true, - perpendicular, parallel, concentric etc.
A good barrel can make up for a multitude of minor sins.
The joy of a Remage type setup is you can do it yourself with a few tools, as soon as UPS drops the stuff off.
You'll pretty much know if the gun's a shooter during the first or second range session.
If the rifle shoots to your satisfaction you're golden with a low cost involved.
If the rifle won't shoot, box it up and send it off to your favorite smith for a true up job.
Your're out some time and ammo to literally "Give it a shot" if you're not happy with the way it shoots.
 
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Drove down to pick up my new Tikka today from Grab-A-Gun (hour drive in pouring rain). Ended up coming home empty handed. I haven't updated the address on my carry license and came back as a hold. WTF? Not like I've been out committing crimes since my last purchase! Okay, I'm not going to get upset about this. I'm just going to let it go. Should be on the range with my new rifle next week...

Nope, not working...I'm pissed!

Bob
 
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I was going to wait until I took this thing to the range before I started kitting it out. Since the weather today sucked and there wasn't much to do indoors, I found myself online with my credit card in hand. Ordered a Sterk swept back bolt handle and knob, a bolt decocking tool, a Bell & Carlson Tactical Medalist #6 stock, a Mountain Tactical 20moa rail and their replacement 3rd gen bolt shroud.

Bob
 
I was going to wait until I took this thing to the range before I started kitting it out. Since the weather today sucked and there wasn't much to do indoors, I found myself online with my credit card in hand. Ordered a Sterk swept back bolt handle and knob, a bolt decocking tool, a Bell & Carlson Tactical Medalist #6 stock, a Mountain Tactical 20moa rail and their replacement 3rd gen bolt shroud.

Bob
I would have gotten the KRG Bravo chassis. I have one for my 6.5CM build and it’s pretty awesome. Also, you’ll probably have to bed you B&C stock, so a little more work.
 
I would have gotten the KRG Bravo chassis. I have one for my 6.5CM build and it’s pretty awesome. Also, you’ll probably have to bed you B&C stock, so a little more work.

I went back and forth between the two. I think I will be happier with the B&C. After my XLR, I decided I'm not a chassis guy. I appreciate the utility and modularity but, I like the feel and density of a real stock. I have a B&C on my .308 and I've been pretty happy with it. They have a billet aluminum bedding block so usually no bedding required. If anything, it would just be skim bedded. It also takes the CTR bottom metal and mags which is a big plus in my opinion.

Bob
 
I an totally in love with my new 6.5 cm mdt with a 26'' bartlein barrel its a incredible gun to shoot in the same breath I still love my rpr at a far far less cost in 308 factory 20'' barrel and factory adjustable trigger , while I can say the tt diamond flat trigger is far nicer than the rpr trigger , I still like the rpr trigger grouping is easier with the mdt and 6.5 feels like its got less kick than my 22lr has me wondering what the rpr would feel like with a longer barrel and 30lb of weight besides a cinder block , I was thinking it would shoot almost as nice maybe .
 
RangerBob, the B&C Medalist is a nice stock. As you mentioned, it does have an aluminum bedding structure. I had one on a Rem 700 a few years ago and it was totally satisfactory. Horses for courses... Enjoy!
 
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You can get the current gen. RPR 6.5 creed for $1,105 ...... well worth it, sub MOA all day right out of the box, don't need to change a thing. Throw on a bipod and a decent scope, and you're set. I've shot a .46 MOA 5-shot group with very little precision shooting experience, and factory ammo.

Another RPR 6.5CM owner and fan here. Sub-MOA all day - from the factory.

If I settle down, I can get 1/2-MOA and even the occasional 1/3-MOA group.... all with factory match grade ammo. Vortex Viper HST scope and Harris bipod.

I'm getting to the end of the original barrel (>3000 rds), so I'm looking at a Krieger. It should shoot even better once I do that. But, the RPR was a great (and relatively economical) way to get into precision shooting at longer distances.

I have done a few mods over the nearly 2 years I've had it, including a Timney Trigger.

A couple months ago at 300 yards... Factory Hornady ELD-M 140-gr

Target-3-Group-4.jpg


And, a couple of weeks ago at 200 yards.... an honest 0.385-MOA!

Great-group-1.jpg


Same target, different bullseye @ 200 yards...
Great-group-2.jpg
 
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Okay, I have to thank those who steered me toward the Tikka. Got the CTR out to the range today and am very pleased with the first outing. I did not do anything to the trigger yet and I found it to be a little bit difficult to pull without inducing some variance. I will be adjusting it down and/or installing a replacement spring. The group shown was my last 5-round group out of the first box of Hornady 140gr ELD-M. Honestly, anything under 1/2 moa is completely satisfactory to me. Where I would like to tighten things up is at the 200 yard line. My best 5-round group today was 1.430" and I think dialing in the trigger would help me get that down.

2019-11-17_03-30-49 by Bob, on Flickr