lookin at getting a new scope for my .308. my question is, with this caliber, at what range do you have to start compensating for bullet drop? reason i ask is if i can get away with not having to compensate inside 250 yds or so, then i dont think theres any need for a ffp in my instance. i use this gun for hunting mainly, but i want a scope that will let me get out there when i want to. when i want to really punch paper or something at a long range, it seems that naturally youd want to turn the scope up to its highest power anyways. does what im saying make sense?
Rifle Scopes ffp- worth the money?
- Thread starter jackh
- Start date
Re: ffp- worth the money?
ffp is good for ranging with reticle and using holdoffs at any power. if you dont shoot matches or are a "operator" odds are you don't need ffp. when you get serious about shooting you will start dialing everything from 25yds to 1200yds.
sounds like ffp would be a waste of money in your instance.
ffp is good for ranging with reticle and using holdoffs at any power. if you dont shoot matches or are a "operator" odds are you don't need ffp. when you get serious about shooting you will start dialing everything from 25yds to 1200yds.
sounds like ffp would be a waste of money in your instance.
Re: ffp- worth the money?
For hunting you can make the case that you would want to turn down the power. FFP allows you to dial down to where you want and still use the exact same holds you would at the full power.
Would you use a 5-25 S&B on a hunting rifle in SFP? No, but in First you turn down and you have the same dials.
Lets give a scene and we'll go from there.
Nice buck steps out at about 150 yards in a field. You have the scope on low power so you can scan said field. You know your come ups at 150. Turn and shoot. No need to adjust more than that.
Really it is very nice. I wish I could have it on all my rifles.
Chad
For hunting you can make the case that you would want to turn down the power. FFP allows you to dial down to where you want and still use the exact same holds you would at the full power.
Would you use a 5-25 S&B on a hunting rifle in SFP? No, but in First you turn down and you have the same dials.
Lets give a scene and we'll go from there.
Nice buck steps out at about 150 yards in a field. You have the scope on low power so you can scan said field. You know your come ups at 150. Turn and shoot. No need to adjust more than that.
Really it is very nice. I wish I could have it on all my rifles.
Chad
Re: ffp- worth the money?
diggler- what do you mean "operator"
i know it would certainly be nice to have but i dont have a ton of money and saving $200 on the scope to spend on ammo sounds pretty intriguing.
just thinking that if that buck steps out so far that i feel i need to dial my scope to make the shot, i will have my scope turned up, making the ffp feature pointless. maybe im thinking about it wrong and more ppl can give opinions?
diggler- what do you mean "operator"
i know it would certainly be nice to have but i dont have a ton of money and saving $200 on the scope to spend on ammo sounds pretty intriguing.
just thinking that if that buck steps out so far that i feel i need to dial my scope to make the shot, i will have my scope turned up, making the ffp feature pointless. maybe im thinking about it wrong and more ppl can give opinions?
Re: ffp- worth the money?
Its no thinking.
Mine:
Read: Up .3
Shoot
No swapping powers, etc.
Dial and go
Seems pretty good for me. On paper: you can adjust based on the first shot and get exact hits from there.
All this can be used in a field out to what ever you can see.
Just think it would be worth it.
Chad
Its no thinking.
Mine:
Read: Up .3
Shoot
No swapping powers, etc.
Dial and go
Seems pretty good for me. On paper: you can adjust based on the first shot and get exact hits from there.
All this can be used in a field out to what ever you can see.
Just think it would be worth it.
Chad
Re: ffp- worth the money?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jackh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">diggler- what do you mean "operator"
i know it would certainly be nice to have but i dont have a ton of money and saving $200 on the scope to spend on ammo sounds pretty intriguing.
just thinking that if that buck steps out so far that i feel i need to dial my scope to make the shot, i will have my scope turned up, making the ffp feature pointless. maybe im thinking about it wrong and more ppl can give opinions?</div></div>
operator as in somebody le/military that needs the features for their work.
for what you are using it for you would be better off with a burris with ballistic plex or leupold with boone and crockett. if you want to punch paper at long range also get the leupold and have target knobs put on. otherwise just field verify the holdovers and use those for close shots. just make sure you actually verify the holdovers don't ever just trust a book.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jackh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">diggler- what do you mean "operator"
i know it would certainly be nice to have but i dont have a ton of money and saving $200 on the scope to spend on ammo sounds pretty intriguing.
just thinking that if that buck steps out so far that i feel i need to dial my scope to make the shot, i will have my scope turned up, making the ffp feature pointless. maybe im thinking about it wrong and more ppl can give opinions?</div></div>
operator as in somebody le/military that needs the features for their work.
for what you are using it for you would be better off with a burris with ballistic plex or leupold with boone and crockett. if you want to punch paper at long range also get the leupold and have target knobs put on. otherwise just field verify the holdovers and use those for close shots. just make sure you actually verify the holdovers don't ever just trust a book.
Re: ffp- worth the money?
You do not "need" a ffp scope.
They didn't use them in sniping in the Civil war, WW 1, WW 2, Korea, Vietnam, Grenada or Gulf War 1.
I "want" a FFP scope, therefore I have one and am getting another. They make a tremendous amount of sense for a "working" rifle as in le/military sniping and they have many benefits.
Nightforce sells far more SFP scopes than they do FFP scopes.
If you are primarily hunting with your rifle and your target is going to be whitetail deer, find out what your maximum point blank range is for the load you are using. Zero at the range indicated to achieve maximum point blank range then hold dead on and shoot. I am not going to go into the whole deal, but your target area on a whitetail deer is approximately 9 inches, depending on your load, if you zero at 200 yards, you can probably safely shoot out to 400 yards or so and fall within that 9 inch circle.
As far as adjusting your scope in the field, it matters not if it is FFP or SFP and it does not matter what power you are on. If your comeups are 4 clicks to make the shot at a given range, they are 4 clicks.
Now, one of the advantages of the FFP mil/mil scope is this example:
With my rifle and a 100 yard zero and the 168 grain OTM AE load , my come ups at 200 yards is 4 clicks or .4 mil. I have the Falcon EMD reticle, I can either dial in 4 clicks (since my adjustments are .1 mil) or I can use the first hash mark, which is actually .5 mil, (close enough) and hold over on ANY power.
You can use holdovers on your SFP scope, but you either have to map it at different powers or use the power that the mil is correct.
You do not "need" a ffp scope.
They didn't use them in sniping in the Civil war, WW 1, WW 2, Korea, Vietnam, Grenada or Gulf War 1.
I "want" a FFP scope, therefore I have one and am getting another. They make a tremendous amount of sense for a "working" rifle as in le/military sniping and they have many benefits.
Nightforce sells far more SFP scopes than they do FFP scopes.
If you are primarily hunting with your rifle and your target is going to be whitetail deer, find out what your maximum point blank range is for the load you are using. Zero at the range indicated to achieve maximum point blank range then hold dead on and shoot. I am not going to go into the whole deal, but your target area on a whitetail deer is approximately 9 inches, depending on your load, if you zero at 200 yards, you can probably safely shoot out to 400 yards or so and fall within that 9 inch circle.
As far as adjusting your scope in the field, it matters not if it is FFP or SFP and it does not matter what power you are on. If your comeups are 4 clicks to make the shot at a given range, they are 4 clicks.
Now, one of the advantages of the FFP mil/mil scope is this example:
With my rifle and a 100 yard zero and the 168 grain OTM AE load , my come ups at 200 yards is 4 clicks or .4 mil. I have the Falcon EMD reticle, I can either dial in 4 clicks (since my adjustments are .1 mil) or I can use the first hash mark, which is actually .5 mil, (close enough) and hold over on ANY power.
You can use holdovers on your SFP scope, but you either have to map it at different powers or use the power that the mil is correct.
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