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Sidearms & Scatterguns Fireclean or Froglube?

WxWatcher

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Minuteman
Mar 14, 2012
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Norman, OK
To help make ends meet, I now work part-time at a local gun shop/range. Some co-workers have recently (as within the past week or so) had their carry guns treated with Froglube. Makes the action feel really smooth and nice, but not sure of it long term. Does it eventually gum-up/get sticky. Do you have to THOROUGHLY clean the old application off your gun before you re-apply. I'm just not familiar with it.

The other I've heard a lot about, with was what I was going to get before the co-workers started showing off their Froglubed guns, was Fireclean. I've heard lots of good stuff about it, and since it's just an oil and not a paste like FL, seems like it'd be a little easier to apply and re-apply.

I don't have any real first-hand experience with either one, so any feed back about your use of both/either is appreciated in advance.
 
Frog lube will not gum up. It actually turns into a very slippery oil when it get warm, like after the first shot and is a great lubricant. Ive been using it on my TRP .45 and my Kac mod 1 and its been perfect. Also cleaning after shooting is a breeze, the carbon just wipes right off. I clean the whole gun with it, once clean just reapply a light coating to all the areas you would usually put oil on. Works great and smells nice too. Never heard of fire clean before.
 
I too use frog lube and it's basically a CLP ( cleaner, lubricant, protector).just a really good one! They have two versions. A very thick paste, and a more oil like version. If applying the paste they say to do it with the gun warm. And it smells like mint!

I tend to have very dry skin, to the point of my hands cracking and bleeding. I little dab of froglube and the next day no more cracks!

Very cool stuff!

I've never tried the other.
 
I find fireclean to be better than froglube for cleaning, but I'm actually using something called Rand CLP right now which so far has been incredible and seems a lot better at preventing rust.
 
I have over 2000 rounds through a pistol after a frog lube treatment. Gun is dirty as hell, but it still shoots great.
 
I have used both but now only use FireClean. FL is a pain in the ass with all the initial cleaning and heating/baking of the firearm that they have you do in the instructions. Fireclean is a Cleaner,lubricant,protectant. The only thing they recommend is removing/cleaning whatever oil you had on the weapon prior to applying Fireclean. After that it as simple as applying more FC to the weapon during/after cleaning. FC also goes a very long way, meaning you don't need to drown the weapon in it like some do with CLP and other products, a few drops go a long way, hence the small bottle. FL is a good product but FireClean blows it away IMO, there just isn't a comparison. FC works really well on suppressed weapons/cans and machine guns,etc , so temp isn't an issue, it also handles extreme cold too. It doesn't gum up after being used at all. It's actually kind of like teflon as carbon does just wipe off with a paper towel and it does build a protective layer on the metal parts which gives it a very smooth surface which also acts as a lubricant. I always feel like a snake oil salesman when telling people about FC as it sounds too good to be true but after they have used it, they all agree, it is really amazing stuff compared to other products. It's bio friendly as well and safe/green.

The only thing I tell people is that after using FC on your weapon don't apply any other lubricants/oils to your weapon while on the range,etc as FC will begin to break it down like carbon and you can/may experience the offending oil beginning to gum up. Other than that, it's really that easy to use and clean your weapon afterwards.
 
I tested Frog Lube on a GSG 1911 i had. During the colder months (if you can really calll it that) down in south texas i noticed the lube could congeal and leave a residue in my leather holster. The gun operated fine and the oil would liquify and run when i shot it. Where it wouldn't do this was in the beavertail saftey. when it congealed it had the feel of syrup that had gotten in there. The only malfuntion I've had with froglube was because the damn beavertail wouldnt go in.
Now in light of this, i thought, well i'll just use FL on the rest of the gun and then Rem-oil the beavertail....oh wait... FL doesnt mix with petroleum based lubes.
Thats about the point where i stripped the FL off and went back to my regular lube and mobil 1.
I am still testing it in a Silencerco Sparrow on the clamshells. we'll see if it has a better use for me.
 
I've been reading a lot about Fireclean and it seems to get raves from a lot of people.... I can't remember their name but someone from Kac gave it a really good review.... I bought some but I have a bunch of tw25b to use.... Anyone have any more experience with it? Most reviews I've read say it's like frog lube but better
 
I like Frog lube use it exclusively now. I think it's super easy to use. I live in Arizona so don't know about it congealing in the cold. I think you may have put it on a bit heavy. A real thin coat is all it takes. My guns wipe clean and it smells great. Easiest I've ever used.
 
+ one more for frog lube. IF you're worried about it congealing, just use the liquid version on those parts. Really It is sweet because the bolt on an AR isn't dripping if you use the paste, but it will heat up and keep it lubed when you shoot it. Magic!
 
I am using FC on to suppressed ARs and my Les Baer. Cleanup is a breeze. I have not used FL but was using Slip EWL. The FC is superior to Slip in the lubrication, slides and bolts nice and slick and it stays put. As others have said, a little goes a looonnnggggg way. Th only lube I will be using from now on.
 
I have also heard great things about FireClean and I want to try it out. But also good news from my local dealer on a product called KG. Anyone heard or use KG and would recommend it? TIA
 
FrogLube looks good, but a few reports of it spoiling and turning rancid, even with some mold, have turned me off to even trying it.
 
That RAND CLP sounds pretty interesting. Froglube might work well, but the hype and marketing sounds like bunk to me.
 
I have not had the chance to use fire clean but I use frog lube exclusively on my firearms right now. I have use a lot of different lubricants from slip, miltec, 5w30. I arrived at froglube while given a sample at vets pistol a couple years back at gun site. I used it on my sig p229 and shot to course with it without taking my pistol apart again. The course of fire ended up being just over 1400 rounds for the week. Since then I have used it on my ar15 and it was the only stuff that stayed put longer than mobile 1while shoot suppressed from my limited testing. I have not have any problems but I do not live in a cold as so I can speak of problems with the cold that others have mentioned.

As are as stripping other lubricants before using, I never really bothered. I just put a liberal amount of paste on the firearms parts and left their the sun for a while and called it good. Never had any problems. Nor have I seen any froglube spoil.

As a plus everything smells minty.
 
I've used FL and it seemed to work well, but I don't really care for the mint smell. Especially when it heats up. I guess I'm in the minority on that.
 
I like Frog lube use it exclusively now. I think it's super easy to use. I live in Arizona so don't know about it congealing in the cold. I think you may have put it on a bit heavy. A real thin coat is all it takes. My guns wipe clean and it smells great. Easiest I've ever used.

I started using FL a little over 3 years ago, and for a long while I used to much. I've tried degreasing with alcohol, coating all parts, then putting them in an oven to penetrate; applying cold with prep; brushing the bore, not brushing the bore; clean after every range trip, wait xxxx rounds between cleaning; essentially every process you could think to do with it. What I found was that the difference in clean up from one to the other was minimal, as long as the gun was clean the last time FL was applied. Applying it on top of carbon did help dissolve some, but it allowed more to stick in the barrel. I've also had problems with a bolt gun that copper fouls heavily. On my semis (long and handguns) I've found that solvents remove small amounts of carbon that the FL didn't remove, but that in my bolt gun the solvent is needed. Now I periodically run boretech eliminator and/or copper solvent to see if FL is leaving anything behind. So far FL is working great in everything but that one bolt gun, where I just use it as a lube. You'd be surprised by how little you need to properly lubricate. For pistols I've applied FL to the slide rails, heated them up, let them cool, then wiped them dry. Took them to the range fired a few rounds and removed the slide to see how well lubed they were. Sure enough there was a slick coating of FL that had permeated out. I ran 500 rounds of 9mm through that handgun that day and noticed no wear at all.
 
Ok - so I went out and bought a set of each of Frog Lube CLP and the paste as well as the Fire Clean system. With both of these products, do they recommend that you completely degrease the weapons prior to Application of the new Lube fire clean/frog lube?

If so, what's the best way to degrease a 1911, sig p226 and an M4. Thanks gents!
 
Ok - so I went out and bought a set of each of Frog Lube CLP and the paste as well as the Fire Clean system. With both of these products, do they recommend that you completely degrease the weapons prior to Application of the new Lube fire clean/frog lube?

If so, what's the best way to degrease a 1911, sig p226 and an M4. Thanks gents!

It goes without saying, don't use both of these products on the same weapon.

Frog Lube has specific instructions that should have come with your order about cleaning and heating the weapon up in an oven, etc, follow them for it's application.

For FireClean all you really need to do is wipe your weapon down really well until you have removed as much of the existing oil as you can. Use a few drops of FireClean and I do mean drops as it is a very viscous liquid and a little goes a long way. Spread it over the weapon until everything is coated and has a light sheen(not dripping or pooling) and you are done. Do not be alarmed if you go back in a day or two and your weapon is dirty, the FireClean will constantly remove any and all carbon until it is gone. Wipe the weapon down after you use it to remove carbon and to clean it and reapply the FireClean, it's that easy. DO NOT use any other type of oil or cleaning solution once you have FireClean on your weapon as the Fireclean will break it down like carbon and other contaminates and the offending oil may gum up, this is especially true while at the range and you've been shooting. If your weapon for some reason needs more lubrication only use FireClean, it is an amazing lubricant and protectant as well.
 
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I am going to pick up a bottle of the FireClean tomorrow. Looks to be MUCH quicker to apply than FL. I have been using MPro7 lately, and the carbon really sticks. Hopefully the FC works!
 
To help make ends meet, I now work part-time at a local gun shop/range. Some co-workers have recently (as within the past week or so) had their carry guns treated with Froglube. Makes the action feel really smooth and nice, but not sure of it long term. Does it eventually gum-up/get sticky. Do you have to THOROUGHLY clean the old application off your gun before you re-apply. I'm just not familiar with it.

The other I've heard a lot about, with was what I was going to get before the co-workers started showing off their Froglubed guns, was Fireclean. I've heard lots of good stuff about it, and since it's just an oil and not a paste like FL, seems like it'd be a little easier to apply and re-apply.

I don't have any real first-hand experience with either one, so any feed back about your use of both/either is appreciated in advance.

First thing to remember is that everyone is "correct", because it works for THEM, but that don't mean it is "correct" for you: Almost no person will freely accept that their way is not "right", since it does work for them. So, with that out of the way, pardon me while I climb upon my soap box...

I have been shooting- and cleaning- firearms for the better part of 50 years, and the absolute most important thing to maintaining accuracy is getting rid of lead and/or copper fouling, and unless you use a Copper Solvent, and Bristle Brush, in the bore, it ain't going away. I almost never hear people mention that when the subject of cleaning is brought up.

Unfortunately, too many "cleaners" don't realy clean a firearm. Take the vast amount of "cleaners" on the market simply copied Break Free with the "CLP" moniker. They are almost always either OIL or GREASE, and they do not remove bore fouling. CLP means Clean Lube Protect, but it only cleans as well as any OIL cleans something, so it will remove powder residue, finger prints, other oils and salts, but honestly, that is just not "cleaning" your firearm now, is it?

I keep hearing people talk about removing "carbon fouling" from their firearms, and that truly is powder residue, and unless it has remained uncleaned for a VERY long time [maybe 20+ years???], pretty much any oil you can put on a rag, including used motor oil, will wipe off powder fouling.

Unfortunately, some years back, the US Military "dumbed down" cleaning by getting rid of bore solvent and switching to Break Free CLP [some salesman saw THEM coming!], but if you look at the vast majority of those rifles, accuracy really sucks because they have NOT been properly cleaned in nearly 25 years now.

Go talk to any number of Hi-Power Rifle or Handgun Silhouette competition shooters and they will tell you that you must clean the copper/lead fouling from the bore, just not quite all of it, since a slightly fouled bore shoots better than an absolutly clean bore. Go look at any number of cleaning kits on the market, and they do not contain solvent. Are the cleaning kit guys working with the gun making guys to facilitate your firearm wearing out faster, or what? Go figure.

I started out using WWII solvent and gun grease, and probably would still be using that if it were still available in quantity, and at afordable prices. It WORKED. Look at how many WWI~WWII 1911/1911A1 & M1 Garand are still out there and going strong, without the use of the newest Hi-Tech grease/oil. Simply clean the bore properly with a solvent, then lube the firearm with the minimum lube you need.

Yes, I said MIMIMUM. More lube means more stuff that can be fouled with dirt, dust, sand, and yes, powder fouling.

So, which lube, since I canot easily get the old Mil grease, is "best"? I have used nearly everything that has come out over the past 45 years, since EVERYONE says their lube will out perform EVERY other lube out there, and most of them did not live up to the hype; just better advertising, maybe. I gave up something else for RIG a long while back, and I gave that up for Frog Lube about two years ago, I beleive.

I have never had Frog Lube go rancid, or freeze and crumble [claims that one of the newer competitors are making]. Any lube will thicken up if it gets cold enough, and any lube will melt and flow if it gets hot enough, but under those temperature extremes, are YOU still functioning at 100%??? Any lube, if left open for long enough will tend to loose moisture and cake up, too. Frog Lube has not failed me, and I have also used it to "lubricate" my knuckles, elbows, and knees, when the air was dry and hot, and my skin was cracking and bleeding.

I also think that the need to heat up a firearm before putting lube on it so it flows into the pores [??] of the steel is a whole bunch of bunk. They never did that with 1911s', Garands, and various belt fed machine guns, so how do you explain the longevity of all those weapons?

Right now I have a GLock which was bought in the winter of 1989/1990 that has not been properly clreaned since 1993, with well over 35,000 rounds of everything except Wincester ammo through it, and with only the minimum anount of lube on the slide rails, bottom of the slide, and barrel, and a minimum amount of oil on the pivot pins, every 500 rounds. Accuracy has diminished due to not using bore solvent [and you can still put every round into the kill zone of a man size chest target at 25 yards], but no other deterioration of function has been observed. No failures to feed/eject, no mag release problems, no malfunctions of any type, (except for Winchester ammo, which I will never shoot in any handgun I own, unless it is life or death and I don't have a convenient club or big rock handy.).

I got some of the Rand CLP [there it is again... what, they couldn't come up with an original name for their lube???], Fireclean, and Frog Lube, and passed them out to 15 active, experienced, shooters to evaluate against whtever they are using now. The un-scientific results are: (14) didn't like it at all; (1) switched to Rand; (12) switched to Frog Lube; (2) switched to Fireclean

Now, I suspect there are quite a few of you that are going to disagree with me, and quite a few who will say I am crazy, or just plain don't know what I am talking about, but I am simply satating my personal experience of 50-odd years of hunting, competitive shooting, and defensive/ofensive shooting, with rifles and handguns. So, take it for what it is worth to you, and please make certain that you keep your bore clean...
 
I have been using Frog Lube for over a year with no problems, its amazing how well it works. I initially clean my firearms with Simple Green it takes everything off. I live in ohio and carry in humid summers and freezing winters and the frog lube works better than other lubes i have used. putting it on for the first time is a pain but its worth it. its really good for long term storage too.
 
I've been reading a lot about Fireclean and it seems to get raves from a lot of people.... I can't remember their name but someone from Kac gave it a really good review.... I bought some but I have a bunch of tw25b to use.... Anyone have any more experience with it? Most reviews I've read say it's like frog lube but better

I believe you're talking about Kevin Borland @ KAC, if I recall correctly. He seems to really like FC.

I have been using FL on my handguns and it seem to work pretty good. I'm going to be trying FC on my AR to see how it works out. I've read somewhere that someone recommended FL on handguns and FC on rifles.
 
I bought both the liquid and paste a while back gave both a whirl. Works well, but the paste proved too thick for tightly fitted 1911s. Although I never had a malfunction, I had to wait for the slide to return to battery between shots. Works fine on the Kimbers and Colts I have, but I'll stick with liquid on the rest.
 
I haven't tried any fireclean, so my comments will be related only to Froglube as I have experience with it. Yes, the initial cleaning takes a while, but isn't much different than cleaning my firearms with anything else until I get to application of froglube.

I got a sample of the product at one of our local practical rifle matches, so I thought I would give it a try.

To make the application easy, I stuck all the parts in a small bucket, put the hairdryer nozzle in the top, and covered the bucket with a towell. I let it run for a minute or two until the parts were warm to warm-hot, but I was still able to hold them in my hands. Then I slathered the froglube on. I waited until the parts cooled, as per instructions and wiped off the excess. The firearms felt slicker, sort of the way a Beretta 92 always feels when I rack the slide. ALL my firearms so treated felt noticeably different.

What really impressed me was the last practical rifle match. I was shooting a 6.5 Grendel. The low temperature on my way to the range was 12 degrees farenheit. During the rest of the match, the temperature ranged from 18 to 22 F, with the high of the day being 25 F after we had finished. Most lubes will cause malfunctions in that cold of weather, but my rifle operated flawlessly..me not so much. In any case, I didn't have a single malfunction due to oil or grease thickening and slowing down the action, so I was pretty impressed.

After I got home, I gave the rifle 24 hours to warm up, and re-checked it. I found it still had that extra slick feeling, sort of like it was on ball bearings.

I have no financial connection with froglube, I'm just a guy who got a sample of the product, and I'm pretty impressed so far.
 
You'd be surprised by how little you need to properly lubricate. For pistols I've applied FL to the slide rails, heated them up, let them cool, then wiped them dry. Took them to the range fired a few rounds and removed the slide to see how well lubed they were. Sure enough there was a slick coating of FL that had permeated out. I ran 500 rounds of 9mm through that handgun that day and noticed no wear at all.

This is how I apply it and am pretty sure how it was originally meant to be done. That's why they talked about wiping off all excess and it soaking out of the metal pores.
I think most leave to much on (not even just with Froglube really) and if you have to much excess the fouling can build up in it and make an abrasive compound which will actually cause more wear then properly/lightly lubing. I have been thinking about trying Fireclean but I really do like the fact that you can run your guns pretty much dry with froglube to stop buildup/congealing and am not sure if FC would work as well in that way.
 
what's the best way to degrease a 1911, sig p226 and an M4. Thanks gents!
Froglube sells a product for degreasing but I just use good old 91% Isopropal Alcohol because I have it on hand and it works great/evaporates fast.

I initially clean my firearms with Simple Green it takes everything off.
From my understanding Simple Green can be mildly corrosive and is not good for use on guns as well as a lot of other things.
 
I use Frog Lube on all my handguns and my AR. I live in Ohio its been below zero the past few days and I've left a handgun in my truck for a lengthy time and no issues, i even shot in the freezing temps and no issues and in the summer it great too. it the only lube i will use for my carry guns.
 


Yeah, I'm throwing the bullshit flag on that. Not only have I recently used several weapons with Fireclean on them all day outside in 20 degree and lower conditions for the past few days during the "polar vortex" with no issues, here is a video for all you nay sayers. You will be hard pressed to find anything that does all 3 things as well as FireClean currently on the market. You can believe it or not, until you use it for yourself, you simply don't know what you don't know.

 
Toss all the flags you like, there seems to be a sample size of several that independently say if you put too much on and it gets cold the guns don't work so good. :)
 
Toss all the flags you like, there seems to be a sample size of several that independently say if you put too much on and it gets cold the guns don't work so good. :)

Have you actually USED FireClean and used it in extreme cold? I ask, because once you use it and actually apply it, it becomes apparent quickly that a little goes a long way, its not like over applying typical gun oil. I've used FireClean for well over a year from desert climates overseas to the current negative cold numbers we're experiencing, it doesn't react that way. What I DO KNOW is that FrogLube will cake up when exposed to the cold. Is there a chance you've confused the two products?
 

Toss all the flags you like, there seems to be a sample size of several that independently say if you put too much on and it gets cold the guns don't work so good. :)

I have ready just as many, maybe more, accounts of Fireclean working well in extreme cold. The posts in those threads smack of B.S. There are no photos or testing to support any of the claims, just a bunch of 'a guy who knows a guy' type claims. If they want to post an actual test, then I would be more inclined to believe whatever conclusion they come to. Random posts about guns running like they have "syrup," in them is pure crap. There is so little Fireclean in a properly lubed AR that there isn't enough to gum it up that bad. In the same thread there seems to be a lot of people who dislike the price of Fireclean and prefer Mobil1. That's fine for them if that is how they feel, but for me I find that lubricant is not one of the larger expenses of shooting (even if using Fireclean).

There are complaints about Fireclean, but usually it's people who haven't tried it, or claim they can't afford a $15 bottle of lube. The other group are those who can't follow the application directions (which are pretty simple).
 
Mobil 1* & CLP works for me.

*It worked well in my engine last night at -4 degrees.
 
About half of the guys in those threads are personal friends of mine that I've known and been shooting competitively (USPSA and 3 gun) with for the last 5 years. Combined we're putting somewhere between 50,000 and 100,000 rounds down range per year. I don't really care if they had an objective videoed witnessed signed in triplicate test done and the wrote a report to publish in the American Journal of Oiling Guns. Their word is good enough for me. If it works for you guys, awesome, just wanted to get the info out not to slather it on or the results may not be what you're looking for.

No, I haven't used it, I'm still on my $5 quart of Mobil 1. :)
 
About half of the guys in those threads are personal friends of mine that I've known and been shooting competitively (USPSA and 3 gun) with for the last 5 years. Combined we're putting somewhere between 50,000 and 100,000 rounds down range per year. I don't really care if they had an objective videoed witnessed signed in triplicate test done and the wrote a report to publish in the American Journal of Oiling Guns. Their word is good enough for me. If it works for you guys, awesome, just wanted to get the info out not to slather it on or the results may not be what you're looking for.

No, I haven't used it, I'm still on my $5 quart of Mobil 1. :)

Thanks for the heads up on the phantom problem with which you have no first, and maybe not even second, hand experience. That's some good looking out.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the phantom problem with which you have no first, and maybe not even second, hand experience. That's some good looking out.

My apologies. I forgot for a few seconds that snipershide.com was the only reliable source of information on the internet. I'll try to do better in the future instead of listening to things like the experience of one of the top 2011 and shotgun gunsmiths in the county.
 
About half of the guys in those threads are personal friends of mine that I've known and been shooting competitively (USPSA and 3 gun) with for the last 5 years. Combined we're putting somewhere between 50,000 and 100,000 rounds down range per year. I don't really care if they had an objective videoed witnessed signed in triplicate test done and the wrote a report to publish in the American Journal of Oiling Guns. Their word is good enough for me. If it works for you guys, awesome, just wanted to get the info out not to slather it on or the results may not be what you're looking for.

No, I haven't used it, I'm still on my $5 quart of Mobil 1. :)


Hey thats great they shoot an ass load of rounds and they are jedi level shooters. Have they shot that many rounds with FireClean on their weapons in extremely high heat and dusty environments as well as sub zero environments? I can look you in your eye and say that I have used it in both extremes and if they tell you it becomes syrup in cold weather they are full of shit. For the record, there is no way in hell they have been using it for 5 years, that is an utter falsehood, it hasn't been commercially available that long. Email the manufacturer and ask them if you doubt anything I have said here.
 
My apologies. I forgot for a few seconds that snipershide.com was the only reliable source of information on the internet. I'll try to do better in the future instead of listening to things like the experience of one of the top 2011 and shotgun gunsmiths in the county.

There you go putting words in other peoples mouths again. I never claimed the Hide was the only source of good information. There are many other sources of positive reviews for this product aside from this forum, so I'm not sure what your point is. There are plenty of industry related folks with unassailable credentials that use and recommend Fireclean, in addition to the experiences of people that post on discussion forums. "top 2011 and shotgun gunsmith," not sure who you are referring to here, but is it the guy who refers to it as "Fire-frog, or whatever," that gummed up a firearm? If so, he didn't seem to even know what the actual culprit of the 'gummed-up' firearm was. Fireclean, Froglube, or something else? Mobil1 does work, and has worked well for a long time, but to claim that Fireclean doesn't work, or has potential to jam up a gun is ridiculous.
 
I have used both neither are really that great Frog lube just not to good and fire clean is stupid expensive, I have used Masters Gun Care OGS 3 with greater success.
Fire clean on an AR bolt is good but not great in cold weather and Frog Lube just don't stay put and tends to gum up. the OGS 3 looks like mobile 1 but does not smell when hot like
car oil does and its way cheaper. Id put it up against anything ever made its that good stays put, no smell no harmful chemicals and super slick. works great on all guns
 
My vote goes for FireClean. I have no science behind this statement but it seems that FireClean is superior to FrogLube in my weapons.

Opinion, not fact.
 
Frog lube = fail on bolt guns when it's cold.


It DOES gum up, and then it collects lots of dirt. I just had a hell of a weekend with it.

Before I left for my match this weekend I wiped it off the bolt and action. I did not scrub, I just made sure it was not caked on. I shot in 20 degree weather all weekend, and all it did was "ooze' out of the bolt and action, then gunk up, collect dirt, and screw me over. I was not able to chamber some rounds, get my bolt closed among other things.

After day 1 of hell I went to walmart got some hoppes and a brush. I scrubbed the crap out of the action and the bolt to remove the rest of this dirt flypaper "lube" I like it on my pistols, and it seems to do well on my AR, but I'll never let it touch my bolt gun again.
 
I probably have $1000 worth of miracle this or miracle that gun lube/oil from various matches hanging around in my gun room. When I sell a gun or upper locally, I usually give them a bottle of something. Most of the marketing is...well marketing. I ran some tests (using ASTM tests standards that Tribologists use) on FrogLube, and some others including Fireclean and even though I essentially get it for free, I don't use it. A tub of slide glide for cam pins, bolts lugs and carriers in an appropriate weight and a 50/50 mixture of Royal Purple 30wt and ATF (both synthetics) for triggers, bolts, gas rings etc. I run a lot of platforms in weather too cold to be out in it and I have seen some of these "lubes" congeal in the cold. I make a half gallon of the 30wt/ATF for like $20, which will last me 20 years or so...

I did work in an oil analysis lab for a few years and I have several advanced engineering courses in Tribology and Failure Analysis, so take all that for what it is worth. If you buy the stuff, the people selling it, and maybe you, will be happy. Make your own, and just you will be happy.