I have B&C medalist stock on my sps tactical 20"I bed the recoil lug and 2" up the barrel from the lug the job did not look to good and my point of impact moved up about 12" at 100 yrds.Is that normal? The gun shot well 5 shots at 3/4 inch at 100yrds.Is there any way to remove the bedding and try again or should I just leave it alone.any help would be appreciated.
Gunsmithing First bed job
- Thread starter ed221
- Start date
Re: First bed job
you can grind it out with a mill or a dremel tool. You need to have relief for the bedding anyway, so it won't really matter what it looks like. If it is grouping well, and doesn't shift when it heats up, you may not get any benefit from re-bedding.
you can grind it out with a mill or a dremel tool. You need to have relief for the bedding anyway, so it won't really matter what it looks like. If it is grouping well, and doesn't shift when it heats up, you may not get any benefit from re-bedding.
Re: First bed job
His point of impact went up 12"...
His point of impact went up 12"...
Re: First bed job
I dont see how the point of impact changed 12 inches at 100yds from bedding. Does this stock have pillars or full block?
Did you torque bolts when you bedded the rifle?
I dont see how the point of impact changed 12 inches at 100yds from bedding. Does this stock have pillars or full block?
Did you torque bolts when you bedded the rifle?
Re: First bed job
Is the barrel sitting much higher than before?
Did you feed the rounds from the mag or load individually?
A basic drill press with a router bit works great if you have basic shop tools. If not, a standard router works great if you take your time. Don't give up, I had to redo the first 5 or 6 jobs I did for various reasons during my learning phase.
Is the barrel sitting much higher than before?
Did you feed the rounds from the mag or load individually?
A basic drill press with a router bit works great if you have basic shop tools. If not, a standard router works great if you take your time. Don't give up, I had to redo the first 5 or 6 jobs I did for various reasons during my learning phase.
Re: First bed job
Sounds like some action stress in that bedding job
This roughly how to do it.
Bedding a Rem 700 is different to bedding a Mauser style action.
The Rem lug should not touch the bedding material on its bottom edge front or sides.
You arrange for this by applying two layers of electrical tape to the surfaces mentioned before bedding.
Before you remove ANY stock material the barrel should be wound with masking tape to create two re positioning collars on the barrel. This requires trial and error and placing the action in and out of the stock until the collars of tape reposition the barrel and action exactly back on the original pads and straight in the channel without placing any pressure on the forend.
Now you can remove stock material.
In the tang area only remove most of the tang pad leaving a very small section at the original level at the front open edge of the pad. This acts as a leveling pad which stops any tendency for the action to drop down too much at the back. It can be removed later if required. Also make sure the back of the tang has clearance from hitting the stock during recoil.
The secret to a good bedding job is to get it back in its original position in the stock without causing any stress on the action or barrel when the action screws are eventually tightend.
Cover all parts of the action and barrel , screw holes etc even above the bedding area with a release agent . Remove or tape up the trigger.
Dont use the action screws to pull it all up. Place it on the bedding compound by hand and push it down gently to the final position . Then just tape it over the front and back reciever rings with strong masking tape that will not strip your stock finish.
Remove any compound that comes out around the sides of the action as it will lock the action in when it hardens and will damage the bedding on release.
Put a sample of the bedding compound on the bench and monitor its hardening. When it is hard enough to not deform at all when you jab it with a screw driver , gently remove it from the stock. The best way is grasp the barrel near the muzzel and the forend near the muzzel , say your prayers and pull apart.
Once it is apart give it a clean up of dags and such and wipe off any excess release agent and put it back in the stock with the action screws and leave it for 24 hours or so to cure.
If the stock has pillars already inplace then barrel tape rings will not be required as the pillars will set the action in position. To get the action down properly on pillars the action screws will have to be used to pull it down.
Sounds like some action stress in that bedding job
This roughly how to do it.
Bedding a Rem 700 is different to bedding a Mauser style action.
The Rem lug should not touch the bedding material on its bottom edge front or sides.
You arrange for this by applying two layers of electrical tape to the surfaces mentioned before bedding.
Before you remove ANY stock material the barrel should be wound with masking tape to create two re positioning collars on the barrel. This requires trial and error and placing the action in and out of the stock until the collars of tape reposition the barrel and action exactly back on the original pads and straight in the channel without placing any pressure on the forend.
Now you can remove stock material.
In the tang area only remove most of the tang pad leaving a very small section at the original level at the front open edge of the pad. This acts as a leveling pad which stops any tendency for the action to drop down too much at the back. It can be removed later if required. Also make sure the back of the tang has clearance from hitting the stock during recoil.
The secret to a good bedding job is to get it back in its original position in the stock without causing any stress on the action or barrel when the action screws are eventually tightend.
Cover all parts of the action and barrel , screw holes etc even above the bedding area with a release agent . Remove or tape up the trigger.
Dont use the action screws to pull it all up. Place it on the bedding compound by hand and push it down gently to the final position . Then just tape it over the front and back reciever rings with strong masking tape that will not strip your stock finish.
Remove any compound that comes out around the sides of the action as it will lock the action in when it hardens and will damage the bedding on release.
Put a sample of the bedding compound on the bench and monitor its hardening. When it is hard enough to not deform at all when you jab it with a screw driver , gently remove it from the stock. The best way is grasp the barrel near the muzzel and the forend near the muzzel , say your prayers and pull apart.
Once it is apart give it a clean up of dags and such and wipe off any excess release agent and put it back in the stock with the action screws and leave it for 24 hours or so to cure.
If the stock has pillars already inplace then barrel tape rings will not be required as the pillars will set the action in position. To get the action down properly on pillars the action screws will have to be used to pull it down.
Re: First bed job
This is just the kind of problem I was trying to avoid by going with the Whidden Aluminum Block... as well as my lack of abilities when it comes to messy adhesives! Not at all saying you should have considered what I did.
I haven't had a chance to "range-test" my job yet so the jury's still out on the success of it, but man... I feel your pain!
John
This is just the kind of problem I was trying to avoid by going with the Whidden Aluminum Block... as well as my lack of abilities when it comes to messy adhesives! Not at all saying you should have considered what I did.
I haven't had a chance to "range-test" my job yet so the jury's still out on the success of it, but man... I feel your pain!
John
Re: First bed job
Ed,
We all have our "what-not-to-do" stories, but keep up the learning. You will figure it out and be very happy witht the end result. If you bed the stock without the screws, make sure to buy some long screws from your local hardware store and cut the heads off. Cover them with release agent and install them in the action. Use them (without the head) to slide down in the stock for alignment purposes. Use lots of release! Most mistakes are fixed by using lots of release agent and using the headless screws for alignment. The above post had great advice when he mentioned not removing material prematurely. I leave a touch of original at the tang and a little at the front (if I am not using pillars). Good luck.
Ed,
We all have our "what-not-to-do" stories, but keep up the learning. You will figure it out and be very happy witht the end result. If you bed the stock without the screws, make sure to buy some long screws from your local hardware store and cut the heads off. Cover them with release agent and install them in the action. Use them (without the head) to slide down in the stock for alignment purposes. Use lots of release! Most mistakes are fixed by using lots of release agent and using the headless screws for alignment. The above post had great advice when he mentioned not removing material prematurely. I leave a touch of original at the tang and a little at the front (if I am not using pillars). Good luck.
Re: First bed job
Ed
Some of the BC medalist stocks that I have beddded actually
let the front of the action ride too low before bedding. With double tape doughnuts I got the action at the right height then
bedded.
Ed
Some of the BC medalist stocks that I have beddded actually
let the front of the action ride too low before bedding. With double tape doughnuts I got the action at the right height then
bedded.
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