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First rifle build

Jarhead 1981

Private
Minuteman
Jun 23, 2021
4
2
Delaware
This will be the first rifle build I have engaged in. I will not be doing any of the work myself but rather a competent gunsmith. I am looking for some great input from folks with much more knowledge of what it takes to make a reliable tactical rifle. I currently have a Rem 700 Varmint in .308 win. This will be my starting point. I am also going to stay with the .308 win.
I am currently considering the following parts:
Hart rifle barrel with 1: 11 twist with straight taper/sniper m-40 contour with muzzle brake
McMillan A3-5 stock (recommendations on parts for this stock greatly appreciated,)
The scopes that I considering are the :
Steiner T5xi 5-25x56mm low profile. And the Nightforce NX8 4-32x50mm.
Bases and rings I am undecided on.

I am open to all suggestions/ideas. My goal with this rifle is to be able to shoot (tactically) out to 1000 yards.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
I would go 10 twist, so you can shoot every bullet suitable for .308 win.
I would get a new recoil lug, they're not expensive and add some rigidity. A Trigger Tech would be an ideal upgrade as well. You'll need that stock bedded for the best results. Check out my website and let me know if there is anything I can do for you.

Chase
 
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With all the other superior rounds out there, I'm curious as to why you're sticking with .308. Or, why not keep your .308 and get a new action? With everything else being new, the difference with one of the lower cost custom actions is only about $900.

As to the McMillan, I take it you're getting it made custom by them? If so, you'll want something that will adjust length of pull. I'm also a fan of getting something like an Anschutz or MLok rail installed which allows you to mount whatever you want (Arca, Pic, etc.) to it for bipods, etc.. I believe McMillan only offers Anschutz as a build option.

You will need a decent trigger. There are a number of very good options in the $250 - $300 range.
 
At that distance I would go with a 6.5cm. "At 1,000 yards, the . 308 drops 372.1 inches. The 6.5 drops 319.8 inches. That's over 16% more drop."
 
As to the McMillan, you'll want something that will adjust length of pull. I'm also a fan of getting something like an Anschutz or MLok rail installed which allows you to mount whatever you want (Arca, Pic, etc.) to it for bipods, etc.. I believe McMillan only offers Anschutz as a build option.
Very good point on the stock suggestion. I would also recommend the adjustable buttstock that can raise the buttstock and adjust for cant.
 
If you want a 308. Build one. I have a few and still shoot them regularly. Love my 260's but before this ammo shortage it was nice buying 200 rounds of fed match for $200 bucks when I didn't have time to reload. Maybe we'll get back to that in a couple years.


1) new trigger
2) m5 or similar bottom metal for your mcmillan
3) if budget allows I'd grab a new action and keep your rem 700 as your back up rifle. If not def new recoil lug.
4) badger rail
5) mounting - Spur mount. ARC rings, Badger Rings. ( that's my preference in order)

I'd go used NF atacr over new NX8. Good deals in px section.

Let us know how it turns out.
 
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I like the .308 foundation, it can be rebarreled to some other chamberings based upon the same parent cartridge. (...And back, if desired...) I've always had a .308 in the cabinets of some form or another, and that's not changing soon.

Rather than specifying what your build will be, save that part for when you are building one yourself.

Take advantage of the builder's own well of knowledge, and ask, rather than dictate. Have a dialogue before the money starts to flow and the tools begin cutting. I'm guessing on the pleasant surprise ending.

The builder needs to know the purpose, whether the wallet is bottomless, and whether you ever plan to have another gun built for another purpose. Such knowledge can establish borderlines between this project and others to come, and may set you up with a truly useful collection of firearms that you can better afford. Do this right and you may end up with a rather special access to the builder's best skills.

It costs little or nothing to ask, and may save you plenty.

Greg
 
The big question is what will you be doing with this rifle?? Banging gongs at 500-1000 yds, medium/large game hunting, or a little of both.
I practice some long range distances, and I want my rifle to perform, but that’s all done as preparation for hunting situations. So if it’s a hunting rig you’re wanting build, I would approach it differently than a competition or long range target rifle, although there is often some overlap.
There are some real pros that can advise on building something that will excel at long range for targets, whether competitively or just for fun. So I’ll leave it to the many good guys who will gladly point you in the right direction.
If it’s a hunting rig you are building, I can share many years of real world experience hunting different species all over the globe.
It appears that you will be using this rifle almost exclusively, so I would stay away from the extremes. Don’t build a 5 1/2 lb rifle, or a 12pounder. Build something that is light enough to carry but heavy enough to curtail recoil and is easier to balance and shoot.
The .308 is classic caliber, but I have to agree with the other comments about the many alternatives that would be far more efficient.
Again, the caliber is dependent on the quarry, but a super efficient 6.5mm would be one option. If you are totally committed to your current action, it does limit things a bit. I use a .280AI for everything In NA, except the big bears....but it’s a long action.
You can go several directions with the barrel, but I would steer clear of the extreme ends of the options. Hart makes a great barrel, as do a dozen others. You can almost always find a solid discount on this site for a new barrel.
The optics is where I have the strongest opinion. I’m an optics junky and have grown to think of my optics as the most important piece of the puzzle.
My motto is “buy the best glass you can afford, but try really hard to afford the best”.....and from owning almost every top end scope made and having a family member who worked in the industry as an optics engineer, then chief tech/dev officer for two optics companies in Germany and the U.S., I can say that the European glass will be my choice every time. The glass coming from the Pacific Rim is made with a different mindset on the part of the company. I won’t bore you, but i try to see as much about the manufacturer and the process as how things look sitting behind the product.
I run 2 S&Bs (the Exos and Polar), Swaro (currently only the Z8i), and a Leica Magnus.
And before you get sticker shock from the price, I’ll tell you that I bought all 4 as demos for around 75-80% of retail. A used top shelf scope is a far better option than a new one that’s inferior in many ways. Great glass does not wear out....ever.
I will give a shout out to NF, as their scopes are built as solid as any in the world. I owned an Atacr, and the glass was a 9.5/10, with the durability a 10/10. I sold it only b/c it was too heavy. Replaced it with a S&B Exos 3-21x50.....saved 10 ounces and the glass is just as impressive, if not a smidge better.
Also, for a light weight longer range scope with some tactical feel, the March 2.5-25x52 is hard to beat as a complete package.
I have not found more crisp, clear, bright and vivid glass than what’s in the Swaro Z8i......but it doesn’t have the design appeal of the March, NF or S&B (Exos or Polar).
I would choose a reticle that suits your eye and your needs and then back into a brand of scope. I prefer a simple duplex with lighted center dot. I dial my yardage, so I do not need hashmarks. But a reliable well built turret is a must.
Swaro, Leica, S&B, NF, March (even though they are not made in Europe) are all great choices.....Meopta is a fantastic company that is committed to making fine optics at a good price point.
On a typical hunting trip I’m spending an awful lot of time behind a scope or binocs....so I think of my scope just like I do a doctor or a lawyer. When the moment comes that I need to use one, I want the best available.
Boy I didn’t mean to blabber for so long, but it happened. Good luck and have fun with whatever you build.
 
keep it in .308, if for no other reason than to keep the gays away.....you can also find cheap .308 ammo like M80, wolf and Tula for shooting <200 yds and practicing positional shooting....which you cant find in 6.5CM

700 action is a pretty solid choice, nothing special you really need to do to them.

the stock you have is solid, the scopes you have are solid.

i would go with a 1/10 twist, itll help stabilize heavier bullets.

ide look for a decent trigger...Jewel, Timney Calvin Elite, TriggerTech.....all good choices.......i personally like the Timney CE.

regarding rings and bases, anything of quality should be fine, i like Badger Ord. steel rings and bases.


with good ammo you can punch out to 1K without too much trouble.......Black Hills or Federal GMM should do it......handloading would be better if thats your thing.
 
I've always had a 308 in the safe, hard pressed for me to get rid of it. It feeds rocks and spits them out into little tight clusters.

Hart tubes are great, no complaints; 10 twist is fine if you plan on using factory match ammo. If you plan on handloading consider 9 twist.

Stock is more of a personal preference and shooting position, choose accordingly. There aren't many "bad" stocks on the market, just some better than others.

Trigger wise, if the trigger you currently have is the older generation M700 trigger get it tuned/springed and shoot away.

If it's the newer production X-series, toss it and buy a nice trigger from Timney/TT/RB etal.

For scope bases and rings, I would suggest NF/Badger/Seekins as a ring/base system.

Scopes, too many to choose from; pick the one with the features you like and shoot away!
 
To start for the money you will be putting into the 700 action And it’s the only part your keeping id sell the whole rifle and start with a Mac bros ss action. It will be an upgrade from the 700 with a better resale value. I understand using 700 and trueing them before this action was available but now at this price it doesn’t make sense.

Second I would go 1:10 twist for no other reason then to be able to shoot any and every 30 caliber bullet within reason (215’s and down)

Third, look at trigger tech triggers. Special or diamond your choice. Personally prefer diamond but they are pricier and the special
Is still great.

Bottom metal I’d recommend Hawkins. Have had great luck with there parts, service and there price!
 
WOW!!!
Thanks a lot gentlemen for the advice. You all have given me much to consider. This.308 is just going to be a rifle to get started with in the long range shooting. It will not be used for hunting as I have several other rifles for that ranging from .308 to .257 whby to .300 whby.
Now,if I can get some good hits beyond 500 yards and get my confidence built up for some competition shooting then I will probably build one for that.... but right now this is just going to be for weekend fun shooting. Again, thanks for all of your great advice.

Respectfully,
Preston
 
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WOW!!!
Thanks a lot gentlemen for the advice. You all have given me much to consider. This.308 is just going to be a rifle to get started with in the long range shooting. It will not be used for hunting as I have several other rifles for that ranging from .308 to .257 whby to .300 whby.
Now,if I can get some good hits beyond 500 yards and get my confidence built up for some competition shooting then I will probably build one for that.... but right now this is just going to be for weekend fun shooting. Again, thanks for all of your great advice.

Respectfully,
Preston
Just one topic...rings. I advocate for American Rifle Co M-10 rings. They are very solid and well engineered and will keep you from pulling your hair out while trying to mount a scope and keep the sucker level when tightening the rings. They are indeed a better mouse trap, IMO.

Cheers