Have any of you used a drill bit to uniform your flash holes?
What size drill bit do you use?
What size drill bit do you use?
- Thread starter VAN1LLA G0R1LLA
- Start date
Re: Flash hole uniforming
I have the RCBS unit. I would not want to use a drill bit because there is no way to regulate how much material is removed. I think I paid $10-$15, so price won't kill you.
I have the RCBS unit. I would not want to use a drill bit because there is no way to regulate how much material is removed. I think I paid $10-$15, so price won't kill you.
Re: Flash hole uniforming
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: predatornut</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have the RCBS unit. I would not want to use a drill bit because there is no way to regulate how much material is removed. I think I paid $10-$15, so price won't kill you. </div></div>
No the $10-$15 won't kill me but I was thinking the drill bit would help keep all of the flash holes uniform and the same size also from what I understand the more uniform the flash hole is the more uniform the burn is and the more uniform the burn is the tighter the groups are
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: predatornut</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have the RCBS unit. I would not want to use a drill bit because there is no way to regulate how much material is removed. I think I paid $10-$15, so price won't kill you. </div></div>
No the $10-$15 won't kill me but I was thinking the drill bit would help keep all of the flash holes uniform and the same size also from what I understand the more uniform the flash hole is the more uniform the burn is and the more uniform the burn is the tighter the groups are
Re: Flash hole uniforming
Purchase A K&M flash hole deburr tool & primer pocket uniforming tool.
Freehand/pistol drilling flash holes in any brass isn't an accuracy improvement.
Purchase A K&M flash hole deburr tool & primer pocket uniforming tool.
Freehand/pistol drilling flash holes in any brass isn't an accuracy improvement.
Re: Flash hole uniforming
Yeah what they said! Why take a chance of ruining your brass when its simple to get Tue right tool for cheap and do it right. If your gonna drill it then you might as well go big or go home.
Yeah what they said! Why take a chance of ruining your brass when its simple to get Tue right tool for cheap and do it right. If your gonna drill it then you might as well go big or go home.
Re: Flash hole uniforming
A Lyman Flash hole deburring tool is all you need, look at Doc76251 Reloading 101 thread above, in that sticky thread he uses the Lyman tool with the stop almost at the very end of the shank, this puts a slight bevel on the outside of the flash hole, and since the tool cuts the hole and deburrs this will uniform the hole from both sides. The easier way to achieve uniform results is to buy Lapua brass, the flash holes are drilled not stamped and are for the most part in the center of the case, Remington brass flat out sucks in this respect, Winchester brass is better but still not in Lapua league.
A Lyman Flash hole deburring tool is all you need, look at Doc76251 Reloading 101 thread above, in that sticky thread he uses the Lyman tool with the stop almost at the very end of the shank, this puts a slight bevel on the outside of the flash hole, and since the tool cuts the hole and deburrs this will uniform the hole from both sides. The easier way to achieve uniform results is to buy Lapua brass, the flash holes are drilled not stamped and are for the most part in the center of the case, Remington brass flat out sucks in this respect, Winchester brass is better but still not in Lapua league.
Re: Flash hole uniforming
Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55?
Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55?
Re: Flash hole uniforming
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55? </div></div>
Lake City, Remington, Winchester, PMC, and some others don't think I have any Lapua or Norma
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55? </div></div>
Lake City, Remington, Winchester, PMC, and some others don't think I have any Lapua or Norma
Re: Flash hole uniforming
+1 for the Lyman tool. You can chuck it in a drill. I used mine in a Hornady case prep center.
+1 for the Lyman tool. You can chuck it in a drill. I used mine in a Hornady case prep center.
Re: Flash hole uniforming
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VAN1LLA G0R1LLA</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55? </div></div>
Lake City, Remington, Winchester, PMC, and some others don't think I have any Lapua or Norma </div></div>
Honestly, if you plan to segregate these headstamps into seperate lots, go for it. If you plan to load and shoot various headstamps mixed togeather, Im of the opinion that varying case capacity, neck thickness variations, ect.. will have a bigger effect on accuracy loss than inconsistant flash hole diameter.
I did ream my 6.5x47 L-Imp flash holes to 1.5mm by hand and it did nothing more than barely coat the drill bit in a light coat of brass. 1.5mm is just about perfect for this (.001" over original OD)...but again, concider its value when working with multiple headstamps in the same lot....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VAN1LLA G0R1LLA</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gor1lla,
What brass/cartridge are we talking about here? Lapua/Norma brass or LC55? </div></div>
Lake City, Remington, Winchester, PMC, and some others don't think I have any Lapua or Norma </div></div>
Honestly, if you plan to segregate these headstamps into seperate lots, go for it. If you plan to load and shoot various headstamps mixed togeather, Im of the opinion that varying case capacity, neck thickness variations, ect.. will have a bigger effect on accuracy loss than inconsistant flash hole diameter.
I did ream my 6.5x47 L-Imp flash holes to 1.5mm by hand and it did nothing more than barely coat the drill bit in a light coat of brass. 1.5mm is just about perfect for this (.001" over original OD)...but again, concider its value when working with multiple headstamps in the same lot....
Re: Flash hole uniforming
I plan to separate all my brass out into different lots also when I get some extra cash I plan to buy the case neck micrometer and the tool to turn the case necks down also my hope is to remove all inconsistencies and have better quality than match ammo
I plan to separate all my brass out into different lots also when I get some extra cash I plan to buy the case neck micrometer and the tool to turn the case necks down also my hope is to remove all inconsistencies and have better quality than match ammo
Re: Flash hole uniforming
As was mentioned above I use the Lyman to chamfer and trim the OUTSIDE flash hole. I use an EJS to do the inside as it does not index off the case mouth, instead it indexes off the web of the case so you don't have yo worry about all the brass being the same size. New product out by Sinclair's is the Gen II that self evacuates the chips. It's on my short list of things to get as clearing the chips is a major PITA.
FWIW inside and outside FH chamfer netted me about a 30% increase in accuracy in a good load (3/4" to 1/2") so there is merit to the idea. Precision Shooing did an article a few years back about flash hole size. The results were inconclusive, so I don't fret the size of the hole, and hence find no use for a drill bit unless you were somehow able to manufacture a stop collar for them
For small primers the Lyman will not work. RCBS has a .17 chamfer tool that if you flip the stop collar over you can set the depth as on the Lyman. All can be chucked into a drill press or what ever spinny thing you prefer.
Cheers,
Doc
As was mentioned above I use the Lyman to chamfer and trim the OUTSIDE flash hole. I use an EJS to do the inside as it does not index off the case mouth, instead it indexes off the web of the case so you don't have yo worry about all the brass being the same size. New product out by Sinclair's is the Gen II that self evacuates the chips. It's on my short list of things to get as clearing the chips is a major PITA.
FWIW inside and outside FH chamfer netted me about a 30% increase in accuracy in a good load (3/4" to 1/2") so there is merit to the idea. Precision Shooing did an article a few years back about flash hole size. The results were inconclusive, so I don't fret the size of the hole, and hence find no use for a drill bit unless you were somehow able to manufacture a stop collar for them
For small primers the Lyman will not work. RCBS has a .17 chamfer tool that if you flip the stop collar over you can set the depth as on the Lyman. All can be chucked into a drill press or what ever spinny thing you prefer.
Cheers,
Doc
