Form 1'ers: your fav 30cal build

8pointer

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I'm in no hurry grabbing kit just yet can just so I have it ready by mid October. Got my trust and paper stuff done gonna submit it Monday after triple checking....really want to narrow my list of tubes down for a build. though. I've read the form 1 experiences and some nice things about a ton of different makes. As with any product search sometimes the brain gets cornmystified after about post # 500. Feel free to expound or keep it pithy thanks all. I know some of you guys have built a stable of them, learned some lessons and I'd like to learn from that as well. This will be shot on a semi-auto 308.
 
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Mike Casselton

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Don,
He's not with the Goobermint.
Dan, myself and another local Tampa area Hider are trying to gather Ti tubes and cups so we can build our form-1 cans.

Originally we were gonna use Diversified Machine, but between the long wait times and absolutley zero communications from them, they are out of the picture.

Hence the thread from Dan asking about favorite suppliers.

Any help we can get from you guys as far as availability, quality and just overall satisfaction with the product will be appreciated.

Thanks guys.
 
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AMGtuned

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I have an order in with superprecisionconcepts.com for Ti. It was in stock at the time, and the size I'm looking to work with for my first of 2 Form 1 cans. This one will be for a 5.56 gassed, and primarily live on a 10.5" host. 30 cal AR platform can would not be too much different in design. I was able to Jump on a group buy at form1suppressor.boards.net and should be receiving some nice 17-4 heat treated cones. Lots of learning to do in the Form 1 world, I have thoroughly enjoyed what I've indulged in so far.
 

8pointer

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I have an order in with superprecisionconcepts.com for Ti. It was in stock at the time, and the size I'm looking to work with for my first of 2 Form 1 cans. This one will be for a 5.56 gassed, and primarily live on a 10.5" host. 30 cal AR platform can would not be too much different in design. I was able to Jump on a group buy at form1suppressor.boards.net and should be receiving some nice 17-4 heat treated cones. Lots of learning to do in the Form 1 world, I have thoroughly enjoyed what I've indulged in so far.
Thank you I had not heard of them....like that they have their version of a Plan B to go with my existing Cherry Bombs. Thanks....please keep us up to date on your progress.
 
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Flyingbullseye

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What length tube do you want to run? I'm not sure how much the loss of 1in and at least 1 baffle will make, others might be around to say. However if you're willing to go with a 8in can Maverick Precision Ti tubes are probably the best on the market. The nice thing with them is the 2in step you have to base your spacers and baffles on. I don't have any form 1 cans as all of mine are form 4. But I have seen in person the MP tubes and are beefy but extremely well made. I've heard good things about SPC but I don't believe they have the reinforced 2in step.
 

AMGtuned

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I have read lots of mixed reviews regarding DM. While most are happy with the product, and what they offer looks outstanding, it seems that most dont like the lack of communication. Do remember though; these are solvent catch solution companies, whose products are possibly being used in a manner other than described, so I understand their reservations in discussing things at length or at all. Will keep you all posted for sure, good luck yourself.
 

8pointer

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What length tube do you want to run? I'm not sure how much the loss of 1in and at least 1 baffle will make, others might be around to say. However if you're willing to go with a 8in can Maverick Precision Ti tubes are probably the best on the market. The nice thing with them is the 2in step you have to base your spacers and baffles on. I don't have any form 1 cans as all of mine are form 4. But I have seen in person the MP tubes and are beefy but extremely well made. I've heard good things about SPC but I don't believe they have the reinforced 2in step.
I currently run a Q Thunder Chicken which is 1.75" diameter and 8"....figured I'd stick in that neighborhood since it's served me well. That's as long as I'd want to run, but could probably live with 7"? Have looked at Mav as well thanks
 

WTFDUDE

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SD Tactical Arms is ok.
would not recommend using solventtubedirect, aside being overpriced have seen reports of lacking quality.
 

Flyingbullseye

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Having looked into doing a form 1 at one point I'd say if you're going to go that route don't stray from the better manufacturers such as Maverick and SPC and or Muted Machines. The only other option is if you can either find someone or manufacture the baffles yourself. ECCO and Curtis Tactical are two I'm aware of that will do that but consider the cost it might be best to buy a form 4 can.
 

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I have a .30 cal form1 I did.
Maverick Raven 8” tube
White Trash Tactical cups. 2 SS the rest TI
Silencerco ASR Mount.

Clip your baffles some when you pop the holes. I used a .25 Ball Nose end mill. Holes are bored to .375 diameter for clearance. You want roughly .03 on each side of bore for clearance. .308+.03+.03. Round up to .375 and use a 3/8 drill if you can get them bored.
Wait til right now is around 30 days for approval. Get your fingerprint cards directly from ATF and ink pad from amazon. I used the ink less one. It is accepted by the ATF.
 

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Flyingbullseye

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I have a .30 cal form1 I did.
Maverick Raven 8” tube
White Trash Tactical cups. 2 SS the rest TI
Silencerco ASR Mount.

Clip your baffles some when you pop the holes. I used a .25 Ball Nose end mill. Holes are bored to .375 diameter for clearance. You want roughly .03 on each side of bore for clearance. .308+.03+.03. Round up to .375 and use a 3/8 drill if you can get them bored.
Wait til right now is around 30 days for approval. Get your fingerprint cards directly from ATF and ink pad from amazon. I used the ink less one. It is accepted by the ATF.
If I may, curious how did you find the two different manufactured parts work together? Any fit issue with the tube to the cups and which cups did you use? What were the sound and accuracy results?
 

ken226

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I have 4 form 1 suppressors. This one is for my bolt action. I turned everything from 4130 chromoly tube and round rod, with Tig welded front and rear caps. I machined the baffles from 4130 round rod as well.


It fits Griffin tapermount brakes and stays with my FN SPR.

It is about 3 years old and has about 500 rounds through it. It shift my zero .3 mils down, but has no effect on group size.

 
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Dolomite_Supafly

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I use SD Tactical tubes. You can buy the end cap to screw an ASR Mount on.

I am building a “D” tube 223 and 308. The 223 will be a little over 7” and 1.5” OD. It will use an ASR mount. The 308 will be 10” and I haven’t decided on a direct thread or a YHM Mount. I am using different mounting styles to prevent confusion and accidents.

I am building my own Ti baffles but there are plenty of places that sell drop in baffles that need drilling.

I already have 3 on a trust and 1 on an individual.

Here is my first 30 caliber silencer. It has a 1.5”x.035” Ti outer tube. The baffles are on the inside of the 1.25” inner tube. The blast chamber vents into the space between the inner and outer tube. It isn’t that great with subs but works very well with supersonic. The baffles are 60 degree cones made out of 17-4.
3F036783-FFBD-42A9-ACD7-DDC6C5BDF81A.pngF9B0185A-229C-41AB-8FAB-E6C7E723AE9A.png
 
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bob3663

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If I may, curious how did you find the two different manufactured parts work together? Any fit issue with the tube to the cups and which cups did you use? What were the sound and accuracy results?
I work with cnc machines for a living. I knew sizing would work together. Accuracy it sane as before using it and my .223 sounds like a 22lr and .308 sounds like a 22 mag.
 

Dolomite_Supafly

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If I may, curious how did you find the two different manufactured parts work together? Any fit issue with the tube to the cups and which cups did you use? What were the sound and accuracy results?
Most manufactures of the baffles mention the OD of their baffles. Get the tube ID then look around to make sure there are baffles that will work with the tube diameter. Some manufacturers sell everything you need except a drill bit but those kits tend to be comparable in price to some commercial units.

The biggest advantage is Form 1s, if done electronically, are coming back in a few weeks.
 

8pointer

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dang i wasn't getting updates to this just check in thanks guys lot of great input here
 

Nodak

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Waiting on my form 1 now and was looking at a SD Tac tube with their shorty brake QD and wedge machine works SS cups. This is mainly for a 300bo 10" bolt pistol but may see use on other stuff. Is it worth paying the premium for a 2" thicker area like on white trash cans?
 

AMGtuned

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Waiting on my form 1 now and was looking at a SD Tac tube with their shorty brake QD and wedge machine works SS cups. This is mainly for a 300bo 10" bolt pistol but may see use on other stuff. Is it worth paying the premium for a 2" thicker area like on white trash cans?
The 2", "thicker" section, machined into the tubes, is usually a built in blast chamber spacer. With .300bo, in subsonic, you may want a smaller BC.
 

Nodak

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BC means Ballistic coefficient to me so I'm not following. I'd like the can to be able to take 308 or 30-06 as why I'm doing the shorty brake and SS baffles or should I go another direction completely? On the other hand I keep getting pulled back to the Hawk Innovative Tech Hybrid. Even if I do my 1st F1 can able to take 300bo Supers, I can always do another, better one ounce I have info.
 

AMGtuned

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BC, I agree, is Ballistic coefficient. In the suppressor world, its lazy typing for blast chamber.

Subs and supers are different animals inside the can. Supers need a larger blast chamber to allow the rapid expansion and cooling of the first part of the blast wave. While subs have a pressure wave, some of which is supersonic gas, they require a smaller blast chamber to prevent first round pop (FRP)
 

AMGtuned

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308 and 30-06, will need decent size blast chamber, proper brake (probably more than half a port inside the can), and a stack of 6-10 (or more) cones/baffles/freeze plugs/vsr's, properly spaced.

Whereas 300bo subsonic, small blast chamber, tighter stack spacing, more baffles. That's my take, I'm no pro, but it will get us started
 

Nodak

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So a lesser cost tube should suffice for me?
 

AMGtuned

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So a lesser cost tube should suffice for me?
My tubes came from Superprecisionconcepts.com . Top quality so far. Waiting on 2 of their flash caps. Cones were from a group buy, but are SS heat treated, 50° and 60° . I'm using a 6.5" tube for a 5.56 build, and a 10" tube for my 30 cal for use on ar10 .308 and 26" 300wm. Both tubes are Ti, and I do not think the price was bad at all
 

Flyingbullseye

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My tubes came from Superprecisionconcepts.com . Top quality so far. Waiting on 2 of their flash caps. Cones were from a group buy, but are SS heat treated, 50° and 60° . I'm using a 6.5" tube for a 5.56 build, and a 10" tube for my 30 cal for use on ar10 .308 and 26" 300wm. Both tubes are Ti, and I do not think the price was bad at all
Does SPC use a 2in thicker section like MP and a few others?
 

AMGtuned

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I dont believe he sells them machined in. There has been talk of a GB involving Ti tubes, with the possibility of the spacer built it. Why not just get spacer material, and cut a spacer to fit?
 

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SDTA is good stuff. I run their thread over muzzle brakes, end caps and tubes.

My first form1 is a 9 inch can and it was a "do it all" build. It has exceeded every expectation. I spent a couple years lurking silencertalk before I did an individual the old-school paper route back in 2012. I wanted a muzzle brake setup and right before I started building ( and clearly AFTER I had tax stamp approval in hand) SDTA started making stuff. They weren't selling tubes yet so I got that tube from Apogee.

The most mindblowing part is that the internals are freeze plugs and simple spacer tube. There was definitely some thought behind the baffle design/production. The bore holes were drilled small then I used a vise to press the plugs into a baffle which also expanded hole by using some impact allen wrench sockets. The first couple baffles also have 6 holes around main bore to allow gas to travel but slow down. I have 1-2 with 4 additional holes, and a couple more with 2-3 holes.

I have used this can on .22LR (subs are insanely quiet), various 5.56 AR's and my 26 inch 6.5CM. There is some downward POI, but its totally repeatable and once can is on once and rifle zeroed with can it will return to zero even if bounced between other rifles in between.

Accuracy:
Simple stellar

The can is as accurate as the ammo, rifle, shooter combo is. I dont claim to shoot bug holes every time I shoot but the can is definitely <1/2 MOA capable when ammo, rifle and shooter is. I've made hits at 1604 with 6.5cm, cold bore 632 yard shot hunting, 440 yard headshot on deer etc.

Nowadays I setup a trust through silencershop, used kiosk for fingerprints and just efiled another form1 this past Saturday and dropped needed paperwork to go with it in the mail today.

New can will be a 6 inch can used mainly for .22LR and 5.56 but will reside on a .300 BO ready to roll. As long as sound suppression is decent on 6.5cm I'll prolly use it to hunt with moving forward as it's 3 inches shorter than my other.

Here's SD brake(steel), rear thread adapter (Ti), tube (Ti) and end cap (Ti) for new 6 inch
 

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coyotewillie

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Has anyone used the titanium screw together cups from JR machine pro? Looking for some 1 1/2" cups and these look interesting. Also, a lot of tube OD/ ID's are 1.50/1.375". And the "D" size cups are 1.355" OD. I would assume these were meant to match up? Isn't .020" difference a bit much to try to line up?
 

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They look very nice and should be for $44/cup. Listed as an OD of 1.5" so I'd assume they are meant for a tube bigger than a D. D size are 1.5" OD also. Wouldn't fit. I do like the idea of the one they are taking pre orders on and would consider it in the future.
 

AMGtuned

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Has anyone used the titanium screw together cups from JR machine pro? Looking for some 1 1/2" cups and these look interesting. Also, a lot of tube OD/ ID's are 1.50/1.375". And the "D" size cups are 1.355" OD. I would assume these were meant to match up? Isn't .020" difference a bit much to try to line up?
A "D" tube, is just that, a tube. it has the 1.35 ID. There are also 1.5" OD tubes that have been bored concentric with the OD, leaving them with a slightly larger ID of the 1.375 variety.

Silly, I know. But it leaves the "D" tubes for the maglight crowd; and gives the rest of us a little lighter, little larger, little straighter, base to work with.
 

AMGtuned

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They look very nice and should be for $44/cup. Listed as an OD of 1.5" so I'd assume they are meant for a tube bigger than a D. D size are 1.5" OD also. Wouldn't fit. I do like the idea of the one they are taking pre orders on and would consider it in the future.
My 1.497 will go in a 1.625 OD tube. ID is 1.502
 

Nodak

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LongShot85, out of curiosity what freeze plug cups did you get?
 

Flyingbullseye

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1.625 OD is the way to go for 308 sized cartridges, but D cell works too with enough length.
I was always under the impression that length mattered more than diameter with full power rifle cartridges. How much of a difference would the 2 diameter tubes make all things equal minus length?
 

coyotewillie

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I've got a Maverick Precision 1.625 OD Ti tube so I need 1.5" cups. So far JR machine is the only one I've found that has 1.5". $44 is pretty pricey but there is a lot of machine work in these with all the threading. I've never seen any that screwed together before and wondered if anyone had used this style. Thats the problem with not buying a complete kit from just one manf, trying to mix and match everything. I've got 6 different tabs pulled up with manf trying to find compatible parts.

The preorder one looks decent but if it's all sectioned I was wondering how that works with the serial number? Not real clear on the picture, but is the first section a blast chamber with the cup sections added? So you'd serial the blast chamber section? Then add or subtract the amount of cups you want for sound?
 

Campguy308

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I was always under the impression that length mattered more than diameter with full power rifle cartridges. How much of a difference would the 2 diameter tubes make all things equal minus length?
I haven't tried a 1.5ID yet, but I have used 8 and 10 inch D cells. The 8 is pretty harsh on 6.5, great on 223 bolt. The 10 sounds great on 6.5. If I do another, it'll be 10 inch 1.625. Yes they say length >volume from diameter, but having both is best.
 

Flyingbullseye

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I've got a Maverick Precision 1.625 OD Ti tube so I need 1.5" cups. So far JR machine is the only one I've found that has 1.5". $44 is pretty pricey but there is a lot of machine work in these with all the threading. I've never seen any that screwed together before and wondered if anyone had used this style. Thats the problem with not buying a complete kit from just one manf, trying to mix and match everything. I've got 6 different tabs pulled up with manf trying to find compatible parts.

The preorder one looks decent but if it's all sectioned I was wondering how that works with the serial number? Not real clear on the picture, but is the first section a blast chamber with the cup sections added? So you'd serial the blast chamber section? Then add or subtract the amount of cups you want for sound?
For cups hit up Lucid machine and White trash tactical
 
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AMGtuned

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I've got a Maverick Precision 1.625 OD Ti tube so I need 1.5" cups. So far JR machine is the only one I've found that has 1.5". $44 is pretty pricey but there is a lot of machine work in these with all the threading. I've never seen any that screwed together before and wondered if anyone had used this style. Thats the problem with not buying a complete kit from just one manf, trying to mix and match everything. I've got 6 different tabs pulled up with manf trying to find compatible parts.

The preorder one looks decent but if it's all sectioned I was wondering how that works with the serial number? Not real clear on the picture, but is the first section a blast chamber with the cup sections added? So you'd serial the blast chamber section? Then add or subtract the amount of cups you want for sound?
You could serial the blast chamber, then state a max length as configured on your form 1. Like having an extension module, you would list the length with the module added on
 

Campguy308

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There's freeze plugs, essentially 1.350 OD on freeze plugs.

Also solvent trap end cap in titanium from SD Tactical ready to roll when time comes
Looks good, but hope you have some good equipment to get thru that Ti SDTA end cap.
 

8pointer

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I haven't tried a 1.5ID yet, but I have used 8 and 10 inch D cells. The 8 is pretty harsh on 6.5, great on 223 bolt. The 10 sounds great on 6.5. If I do another, it'll be 10 inch 1.625. Yes they say length >volume from diameter, but having both is best.
What are your thoughts on a 7.62x39 for 8" vs 10"? I run an 8" 1.75 and it's fantastic, but building up a form 1 for a 10.5" barrel....will be almost exclusively shot with subs. Thanks
 

coyotewillie

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Anyone happen to have a picture of the SPC 60 degree cups? They have a picture of their Pro divider(cup) but not of the 60 degree. Not a big issue but it's nice to see what you're buying.
 

Nodak

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Made my choice for my 1st venture into F-1, SDTA titanium tube with their shorty brake QD and wedge machine works formed SS freeze plug cups and aluminum spacer. Already planning my next three form1's.
 

Campguy308

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What are your thoughts on a 7.62x39 for 8" vs 10"? I run an 8" 1.75 and it's fantastic, but building up a form 1 for a 10.5" barrel....will be almost exclusively shot with subs. Thanks
No experience with x39, but not too much powder, so an 8 would probably be fine, especially if larger than D cell
 

8pointer

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SD Tactical Arms is ok.
would not recommend using solventtubedirect, aside being overpriced have seen reports of lacking quality.
Do you mean solventrapsdirect? Friend just bought one of those....where did you read the reports on that please I was looking at them as well, but want to read these if you cam point me towards them please. Thanks