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Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Infinity

Always Professional
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 17, 2012
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Atlanta, GA, USA
I just ordered a Forster benchrest FL sizer die for my .308 and am planning on sending it in to Forster for the custom neck-size honing service. That said, I'm new to reloading and am not sure what size to have them hone it for.

These reloads will be for an LAR-8 .308. I probably don't need to say this part but it is an FAL mag-fed AR-10 type rifle. I am planning on loading a FGMM clone load. I'll optimize a load for the rifle at a later date, I'm aware I'll be able to load better than FGMM.

After everything I've read, I'm planning on measuring a loaded FGMM load neck size and subtracting .003". That will be the size I tell Forster to hone the Neck size of the die for. Will this be adequate neck tension? Is this a good plan?
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

That is good unless you neck turn afterward or you change brands of cases. Be aware that Forster can only hone down to a certain amount...they will tell you that dimension.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

I had them do the same thing with a 7-08 FL sizing die. I had my reamer specs so I sent them to Forster so they could look them over. I talked to them on the phone and they suggested a dimension and I went with it. You can feel the difference when you re-size a case. The honed die takes much less effort. I'm very happy with mine.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

My 6mmBR die has been honed by Forster. My loaded neck diameter is .269" and I had it honed for .266" and it has good neck tension. .003" is pretty much standard, .001" for brass springback and .002" for the neck tension. That being said, it's for a bolt gun and the AR platforms are pretty rough on ammo. You might need to look into crimping with a lee factory crimp die for the AR. You need to measure the neck diameter of a loaded round using the brass you're going to use in your rifle. If that's the Federal brass from the GMM round then use it, but be aware that your die might not work right if you end up using different brass. Forster can hone a max of .008" out. When you call Forster the lady can look up the die prints and tell you what the factory diameter of your die is. Chances are you'll be fine, my 6mmBR die comes stock with a .261" neck and they honed it to .266", a difference of .005".

Also, you have to measure the loaded round with a micrometer, not a caliper. Calipers aren't accurate enough. Forster wants to know the desired dimension to the nearest .0005", i.e. .2660", .2665", .2670", etc.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Thank you all for the contributions.

FNP, I'm not planning on turning necks but may change that if I get excessive runout. Thank you for the heads up on the limitations of factory die honing.

Jumper, thank you for the personal experience. I'm a pretty consistent guy...same brass, same bullets (except for hunting and I'm willing to get a new die for that), etc... I am happy that the honing service is a success in your mind...making me like the overall plan
laugh.gif
. I'll call them tomorrow and see what Forster thinks correct neck tension is.

Gary, thank you also for your experience. I'm really not planning on crimping as I've read it's unnecessary with correct neck tension, even for precision ARs. Thank you for the heads up on the micrometer-level accuracy; note taken, I'll get a micrometer. Please let me know if you're vehement on crimping being a necessity. I am open-minded...just trying not to over-complicate something already pretty complicated.

Is .004 too much neck tension if I choose not to crimp? Would this be a better plan? Was the old plan good? Please keep 'em coming, thanks all...
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

IMHO, it's not necessary to go more than .003" under your loaded round
diameter for your die spec. This allows for .001" springback and nets
you .002" or so of neck tension. Brass will only stretch so far. So if
you size your neck for .003-.004" the brass will be expanded by the
bullet when you seat it and in the end you will still end up with only
.001-002" of neck tension.

I'm not a metallurgist, but I do believe that sizing the brass for more
than .002" of neck tension doesn't really do anything except work the
brass more than it needs to be.

Others may differ in opinion.

Bear in mind that after several loadings your brass will not size down
as much and you will either need to anneal the necks or use a new batch
of brass to maintain neck tension....or, size the neck down some more to
net the proper neck tension. This is where bushing dies are handy.
However, personally I prefer to anneal my brass rather than trying to
size it smaller to net the neck tension I am looking for.

Gas guns can be hard on rounds. You can experiment a little and see if you
need more neck tension or if crimping is worth it. Measure the oal of a
round and then chamber it. Carefully extract it and measure the oal
again and see if it moved.

Repeat the experiment with increased neck tension or crimping if you so
desire.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

My suggestion is don't for a auto loader, there hard on brass and it won't last like it does for a bolt gun.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

I have had Forster hone out some necks:
1) 6mmBR .265"
2) 257 Roberts Ackley Improved .284"
3) 30-30 .326"
4) 308 .330"
5) 30-06 .330"
6) 8x57mm .344"
7) 338 Win Mag .362"
8) 223 .245"


I think I had too much honed out of the last two.
So they act as bump dies, and the neck gets finished by a Lee collet neck die.

260brassandhomemade0299inchneckandshoulderdie1-3-2013.jpg

I have started making dies in the lathe with a 7/8-14 threaded rod. I do not do full length, but to get the shoulder angle and the neck the right size in a 1" tall die only takes a few minutes, and gets me exactly what I want in forming.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Frogman, thank you for the in-depth description...it is a little over my head so please excuse my question if it is, for lack of a better term, dumb. Since brass exhibits some level of elasticity (.001") when fl sizing, isn't it plausible that I may gain some increase in neck tension from honing the die for .0035", etc. neck tension? Even if the neck sizing doesn't fully take due to a lack of more brass elasticity, would a seated bullet possibly end up with .002+" neck tension (as per your description)? When necessary, and perhaps right out of the gate, I am planning on using killshot's annealing service that he provides here for hide members. I figure it will help maintain consistency in my process to periodically anneal the brass every few firings, even if not completely necessary right away.

Cobra, your post is a bit vague. Are you saying don't hone the die at all? I am all for hearing what you have to say as it appears you've been in the game far longer than I.

Clark, thank you for posting your experience as well. Is your .308 also an autoloader? Is .330" the number I should have Forster hone the neck of the die for using 175 gr SMKs? I'll also be consulting with Forster to hear what their "experts" have to say. That's awesome that you're able to make your own dies on the lathe. That is, at least currently, out of my league.

Please feel free to share your experiences/opinions if you haven't already, the more the merrier. Thanks all,
Adam

 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

To your question if I understand it correctly, yes if you purposely size your necks .0035" smaller than bullet diameter the end result will be usually no more than .001-002" of actual neck tension on the bullet.

Someone with a better working knowledge of metals would be better to explain it, but the best way I can explain it is if you size a neck down to .004" under bullet diameter, the. You seat that bullet into the neck he bullet will expand the neck as it is pushed into the opening... If you then Pull the bullet out and remeasure the internal neck diameter it will no longer be .004" less than bullet diameter as you would think... It will probably be somewhere between .001-.002" under bullet diameter depending on the brass condition.

It's almost like play dough... Even if you make a really small hole in a pile of play dough, once you push say your thumb into it and pull it out, the size of the hole doesn't return to the really small hole you initially made, but will take the form of your thumb and remain that way. Brass is similar except if will spring back about .001-.002" or so.

There is also more at play in regards to neck tension than just fitting a bullet into a smaller hole. Neck length and brass thickness also play a part in how much neck tension you have.

You can also induce runout by forcing the bullet into too small of a neck and if using a redding comp seater there is a risk of damaging the seater stem.

You want enough neck tension to resist movement. I've taken rounds with .002" of neck tension dropped them on a table bullet down several times and measured no movement when measured on the ogive... Bullet tips will deform but it should be enough to resist movement.

In my opinion, The benefits of honing out a neck on your fls die are less brass working and improved runout on your brass if the die is made correctly. However in your AR its likely that your chamber has a fair amount of neck clearance to allow for function. Which means that your probably moving the brass a fair amount when sizing anyway regardless if your using an expander ball or not. I've never tested this but I imagine just by nature of the round being stripped from the magazine and chambered its possible that even the straightest rounds will get bumped enough that some runout will be induced... I could be wrong here but this might be why Cobra suggested its not worth honing the necks for an auto loader to which I would probably have to agree.

Personally, I typically home out necks for my bolt guns but I don't with my AR. Partially so I can use range pick up brass...with honing your necks it's a good idea for you to use the same brass for consistency as not all brass brands have the same thickness.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Frogman, thank you for the (another) detailed and informative answer. It makes a lot of sense that there is a neck tension sweet spot that minimizes runout while maximizing accuracy.

I imagine you're right about a significant amount of sizing happening each time purely based on the chamber of an AR-type rifle. I'm thinking that removing the expander ball and honing the die will minimize how often I need to have the brass annealed.

I hear what you're saying about the round being stripped from the magazine and potentially inducing runout. However, I feel like if that was the case, I wouldn't be able to shoot .2 MOA groups @ 100 yards with the rifle (and not 1 shot groups, lol). Please correct me if I'm wrong and would only notice these differences at further distance. I imagine it would take quite a few rounds to properly test this.

All of the brass I use is consistent head stamp and from the same batch (1x fired, 2x, etc.).

Thank you for explaining what Cobra was saying, I was unclear. Even if that theory is correct, I'd probably still feel like honing the die would make me feel like I'm taking every step to optimize each round I hand load...confidence, shooting, blah blah.

Anyway, thank you again for educating me further. I had no idea what I was getting into when I decided to hand load but I'm too far now to turn around
laugh.gif
Happy shooting,
Adam
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Where runout shows its effect on the target is debatable, depends on the equipment, shooter, distance, quality of hand loads. The bottom like is what your accuracy needs are..... Trigger time and shooter practice trumps all, and then in regards to hand loads your charge weight will be the most important variable in finding your accuracy node.

It won't hurt anything to hone out the neck on your die as long as your using the same brass. Whether or not its absolutely necessary is up to you. It may extend useable brass life before annealing, it might not... On my bolt guns I anneal every 3-5 firings or so depending on caliber.

Ill let cobra chime in when he gets around to it... I'm only guessing to what he was referring to...
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

That makes sense, I've been getting to practice consistently this winter, since moving. My new range is out my back door (shameless brag). So far, I've only shot FGMM 175s. I was initially planning on developing an optimized load after FGMM clone-loading the first 100 rounds or so. That said, I'm having trouble deciding why I'd mess with something that works so well. To shoot better groups than .2 MOA is even more OCD than I am so I'll most likely end up scrapping the ladder test, etc.

Good to know about variance in neck thickness with different brands of brass. I was planning on annealing every 3 firings or so only because of how much harder on brass gas guns are (at least that's what I've read).

I was assuming that was a guess as to what Cobra meant but it makes sense. If I was more experienced with reloading, I'd have most likely assumed that's what he meant. He obviously just rattled off a quick answer, assuming I knew more than I do.

Thanks as always for thoroughly addressing questions in this post. This is the way I learn best so it really helps. Later,
Adam
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

I cannot shoot as well as 427 Cobra nor Bart Bobbitt, but I have read the internet for 20 years.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=514532

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> January 29, 2013, 09:29 PM Bart B.

Otto, in the ammunition industry, neck tension's measured by the amount of force needed to pull/push the bullet out of the case neck. There's no dimensional part of it 'cause surface tension between case and bullet will vary depending on the materials and coatings on them, what their contact surface area is as well as how tight the case neck is on the bullet. This is called "release force." That's what effects muzzle velocity and peak pressure. For 7.62 NATO ammo, the specs are from 40 to 60 pounds minimum, depending on the ammo type. Commercial ammo has lower numbers. One can built a release force measuring thing with a collet type bullet puller, shell holder, and a bucket to hold a few dozen pounds of bullets with a 2x4 clamped to a bench top.

Dutchman, I'd just use a bushing 2 thousandths smaller than a loaded round neck diameter and not be concerned about the difference between the bushing diameter and sized case neck diameter. Unless your know the elasticity properties of the case mouth, you won't be able to measure any tension it has on the bullet.
__________________
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Former USA Palma Team Member
NRA High Power Long Range High Master
NRA Smallbore Prone Master</div></div>
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Clark, thanks. I am having trouble deciding if you're last post, or your previous one, addresses service rifle ar-type weapons.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Infinity</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Clark, thanks. I am having trouble deciding if you're last post, or your previous one, addresses service rifle ar-type weapons. </div></div>

Here's the problem you're going to run into having your .308 die honed out (or widened,) you're going to be stuck with a particular brand of brass--in your case, Federal brass.

Different brands of brass have different neck wall thicknesses and even the same brand of brass may exhibit a different thickness on the same case, around different parts of the neck.

When die makers make their dies, they err on the side of caution and make them slightly tighter, thereby gripping the bullet more, rather than less. They do this for 'insurance' purposes. This is to say that they'd rather have a bullet gripped a bit more, than one that is too loose and prone to set back (forcing the bullet back into the case.) This can cause a spike in pressure and that's not a great thing.

Touching on Clark's post, quoting the fellow about neck tension, he/they are correct. There is a plethora of variables affecting how tightly/loosely that bullet is held in the case mouth. Many of those variables we don't have control over, but we can control the opening of the case mouth and we do this through bushings, or honing out the neck portion of a fixed diameter FL/neck sizing die, to match a certain brand of brass, or more precisely, the thickness of that brand's neck walls.

Bushings do matter and I have some Winchester brass that when sized with a .332" bushing, will allow me to easily pull a .308 bullet out of the necks with only my thumb and forefinger. Other Winchester brass that I have, requires a .334" bushing, so that's a big difference.

I have other bushings where, when used, I can barely knock the bullet out with a kinetic puller, even after ten whacks.

The problem with a gas gun is is the massive bolt carrier inside. When they fly forward, they strip off a round from the magazine and that round smashes into the feed ramp, forcing the bullet back into the case. Once that cartridge hits the shoulder stop of the chamber, there might be some inertia acting upon the bullet, forcing it to travel back out a bit.

With little neck tension, or even using brass with thin necks, you'll possibly have a bullet that is more easily pushed back into the case and causing pressure to rise. It might not be a lot and you might not ever notice it, but if you're running at the redline and you happen to be shooting in hot weather, it could create a problem down the road.

The biggest issue for me, at least, is in limiting oneself to one neck wall thickness, so to speak. What if, as in the case of my Winchester brass referenced above, you get a batch of Federal brass that has unusually thin necks? Your honed out die is not going to squeeze those necks down far enough to grip that bullet with 'enough' force, to prevent set back.

In a bolt gun, one can always insert that loose cartridge into the chamber and close the bolt gingerly, but not with a gas gun.

Add to this the fact that Federal brass doesn't have the longest lifespan and you might be over-thinking the situation a bit.

I realize that bushings aren't perfect, but if you have a few of them, you can safely load up varying brands of brass and keep things somewhat more uniform, than you would having a standard (or honed out) die with a fixed opening in the neck area.

Anyhow, if you're going to stick with one brand of brass, go for it, but I might just test out the Forster and see what it's actually doing to the necks that you intend to shoot down the road.

Size a few cases with the die as is and measure the outside diameter. If you know your average neck wall thickness, you can figure things out from there. You'll need a ball mic to measure the walls, however.

Chris



 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Chris,

Wow. I'm going to let all that sink in a bit before I respond further...either tomorrow or the day after. You've given me lots to think about. Thank you,

Adam

P.S.
My new Co-Ax just got here, daaaaaa...
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Chris,

It makes a lot of sense what you're saying about holding off on honing my die, since it is not a bushing die (and I may end up reloading multiple types of brass). I've recently read about the ability to polish my expander ball:

http://www.sierrabullets.com/index.cfm?section=techservice&page=xring&volume=7&issue=4

I've read that it keeps the ball from unevenly pulling on the case neck on the way out. I'll start with polishing that (if I absolutely feel the need to do something) before I get all bonzai on minimizing theoretical runout with a bushing. I'll keep you all in the loop on how the first batch goes.

Thanks again,
Adam
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Infinity</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chris,

It makes a lot of sense what you're saying about holding off on honing my die, since it is not a bushing die (and I may end up reloading multiple types of brass). I've recently read about the ability to polish my expander ball:

http://www.sierrabullets.com/index.cfm?section=techservice&page=xring&volume=7&issue=4

I've read that it keeps the ball from unevenly pulling on the case neck on the way out. I'll start with polishing that (if I absolutely feel the need to do something) before I get all bonzai on minimizing theoretical runout with a bushing. I'll keep you all in the loop on how the first batch goes.

Thanks again,
Adam </div></div>

Ehhh...

Most of the cool kids ditch their expander balls if they're using bushings. You don't need them and they'll do more harm than good.

Tier 1 baby, Tier 1.

Chris
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

LOL, I'm cool, really ;D. For a cost just slightly above that of each bushing, I may as well get different honed sizing dies from Forster when necessary (when I don't feel like I'm getting adequate neck tension from the honed die). I'm blaming the additional expense on you when the wife hears. I'll tell her the cool guys said I have to.

Somewhat related question: do you use dry lube for the inside of the case neck when seating?
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Sometimes....depends on the caliber...since I've switched to stainless steel media I've noticed more friction when seating bullets. I dip the base of the bullet in the dry lube with steel bb's for a light coat on the bullet to ease the seating pressure..I haven't seen any ill effects on the target, and seating is much more consistent for me.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Infinity</div><div class="ubbcode-body">LOL, I'm cool, really ;D. For a cost just slightly above that of each bushing, I may as well get different honed sizing dies from Forster when necessary (when I don't feel like I'm getting adequate neck tension from the honed die). I'm blaming the additional expense on you when the wife hears. I'll tell her the cool guys said I have to.

Somewhat related question: do you use dry lube for the inside of the case neck when seating? </div></div>

Well, bushings can be cheap if you look around, but there is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat, as they say.

No, I tumble in walnut/polish and then if I'm trimming, I'll do a quick pass using an older bore brush, on the inside of my necks and leave it at that.

We generally get a layer of slick carbon deposits on the inside of the necks, that makes seating bullets a bit easier, lowering the friction coefficient.

As the guy above states, stainless steel media does such a good job of cleaning brass, that it takes that carbon layer out of the equation...similar to seating bullets in new brass.

Chris
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Infinity</div><div class="ubbcode-body">LOL, I'm cool, really ;D. For a cost just slightly above that of each bushing, I may as well get different honed sizing dies from Forster when necessary (when I don't feel like I'm getting adequate neck tension from the honed die). I'm blaming the additional expense on you when the wife hears. I'll tell her the cool guys said I have to.

Somewhat related question: do you use dry lube for the inside of the case neck when seating? </div></div>

Well, bushings can be cheap if you look around, but there is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat, as they say.

No, I tumble in walnut/polish and then if I'm trimming, I'll do a quick pass using an older bore brush, on the inside of my necks and leave it at that.

We generally get a layer of slick carbon deposits on the inside of the necks, that makes seating bullets a bit easier, lowering the friction coefficient.

As the guy above states, stainless steel media does such a good job of cleaning brass, that it takes that carbon layer out of the equation...similar to seating bullets in new brass.

Chris</div></div>

So you're saying that if I tumble w/ stainless media, that I probably do want some sort of lube in the neck? Seems to make sense. Just confirming with someone who knows more than I.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

I would..... If you're dry tumbling, just brush out the necks after tumbling and the small amounts of carbon will act like a lubricant as Chris said.... Ultrasonic and stainless steel media in my opinion benefit with some dry lube when seating bullets.
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Lubing bullets is another step that really may not be needed.

Clean your brass with SS media and then try and seat some bullets.

I don't use SS media because I don't have to have brand spankin' new looking brass to make accurate and consistent ammunition.

There's more downside to SS media cleaning, IMO.

Chris
 
Re: Forster FL Sizing Die Factory Honing Question

Frogman, Chris, thank you gents. I'm hoping to get my new bench tomorrow. May have to add a pic to this thread...