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Sidearms & Scatterguns G20 ftf hot loads +trl1

thejeep

Psychosomatic Long Covid+
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Aug 30, 2008
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    New York City
    Well I have a glock g20 gen 4 new last May with approx 600 rds no problems sans light. Today I shot 200 more with /without trl 1 . With the light I was lucky to get 4 shots without a failure to chamber. Tip up stuck on feed ramp or to left. I tried normal grip, tight, and limp all similar results and with all three mags. Ammo was sig vcrown 180gr, sig 180 fmj, underwood 200hard cast and fmj. Also theunderwood loads were more consistent in ftf than the softer sig loads.

    Underwood suggested 20 or 22lb recoil spring and said they had heard this happening before. Stream light and glock pleads ignorant.


    Try the spring? Any other suggestions.?
     
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    I've talked with several PD armorers who've had issues with the Gen 3 40 cal. Glocks doing the same thing with the same light.

    It's pretty well known in LE that Glocks need to flex when fired, and for whatever reason, the TLR-1 being attached to certain weapons doesn't allow the frame to do what it needs to in order to reliably load the next round.

    I've also heard that mid Gen 3 pistols had problems like the one you're experiencing with your Gen 4.

    I'm lucky. I run the same light on a G19x, G34 Gen 3 (made in 2011) and an early Gen 3 G21 (1998 vintage) with no problems.
     
    ...and of course Glock knows about it, they won't admit it. It's been going on for over a decade now.
     
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    Glocks and lights... The polymer frame twists under recoil, you can see it in slow motion. Anything tight on the rail will cause it to malfunction more often than not. BTDT.

    The Surefire X200-X400V don't do it and neither does the Glock laser/lite. A k grip will also render it useless (this was years ago in the army when we tested random shit for our Bde.)

    Just my experience. Never used the Streamlight stuff, just the Surefire and that one POS Glock light.

    Personally, I only trust the Surefire lights. They're the best anyway.
     
    Ok so I bought more Underwood 200gr Fmj and hardcast, as well as some .40 180jhp wwb. A 3rg gen ss guiderod and gen 4 adapter and a 20lb and 22lb flat spring.

    Baseline ftfs with stock rsa and light , all loads. To make a long story short the gun has the 22lb spring and will run with/with out light and .40 loads. No light, brass ejects 3oclock and 2 feet.w/ Light 4ft . Hot loads 13’ away no light and ftfs lessened w/light. 24lb spring on order.

    Looks to me it is under spring from factory.

    Also had video to check for limp wristing, it was not present.
     
    No, Glock has known about this for a long time.

    Anything that fits really tight on that rail can cause it to malfunction. The dust cover twists under recoil; a tight clamp on that rail prevents that. The Surefire lamps have done well, I don't know if they spend more time getting it right or just got lucky. There's a GLock laser/light, I have one, it does work but it's an older incandescent piece. I'd probably let it go if someone wanted it.

    Full power 10mm loads will require a heavier spring. What I do with 10's is get a SS guide rod and all the appropriate Wolff springs and just go from there. When I get it so the spring is too much, I drop back two springs for reliability. Usually does the job for a G20 or a Smith 1006.

    Glocks all come with the same 17lb spring IIRC. But full power ten loads work better with ~20 or so. Depending, that's why I'd get all available springs.

    For low power loads in 9mm I go the other way and use a 15lb spring for reliability.

    That and sights are the only aftermarket parts I'd put in a Glock.
     
    I dumped a Gen 3 20 for the same reasons as you, but I was running Swampfox then, and a Surefire x300 light. No amount of spring combinations ever fixed it for me with full power loads. .40 power loads were fine, but if I wanted to shoot .40, I’d pay a helluva lot less and shoot real .40S&W.

    I’m into .45 Super now, comped, and no issues in the Gen 4 flavor, even w/ the x300U attached.
     
    I've run into that issue shooting 40 S&W in both Glocks & HKs. Too little tension on the screw & the light will fall off the rail. Too much & you've got a malfunction to clear. The frame will flex on both of these pistols. I'm a firm believer in having a light on all your (duty / PDW) weapons. I find a spot where it starts to get tight & turn the screw (w/ screwdriver) just a bit more. I go back out on the line to check my pistol(s) for reliability & go from there. Y'all may have another way of doing things but this has worked well for me over the years.

    For the HK I'm forced to run the gun stock. Period. The Glock, all I've done to it is add Trijicon night sights & a Vickers ext. mag release. Everything else is factory original. Both guns run like a champ.
     
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