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GAP -10 Failure to Feed/Eject

Hoax001

Private
Minuteman
Oct 8, 2014
80
24
Hi everyone. I just got my new GA Precision GAP-10 and having issues with Failure to feed/eject. I was using non-match grade ammo - 147 gr PMC FMJ-BT 308. I am assuming this was the problem. The first cartridge is fine but the second does not feed and sometimes the first fails to eject.

Speaking to some folks at the range, they suggested that I use a higher grain match ammo to break in the rifle. They said that after about 100 rounds or so the rifle will probably break in enough to use the 147 gain.

If I could afford to use $1.75 per round match grade all the time, I would. I was really hoping to get away with the PMC for everyday shooting.

I was going to pick up 100 rounds of 168 gr HP-BT - Federal Premium Sierra Match King Gold Medal.

What do you think? I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks. :D
 
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I'd try to find an inexpensive ammunition that has pressure characteristics more like the match ammo that the rifle was designed for. Perhaps a mid weight hunting ammunition would work.
 
That ammo may be a little on the weak side to fully cycle your rifle. Also, check and make sure your BCG is well lubed. There is nothing to gain by shooting junk ammo through a precision rifle. Try some 168/175gr match loads and see what happens, its a little more expensive but at least you wont be wasting your time.
 
Ugh......I might have waited to create a thread like his till I cycled at least 1 or 2 types of Match ammo(168gr or better).

In fact try a few different grades of Match also. PMC while not crap.....is not what I would run through a rifle with a match barrel.

Also....what are the stats on your GAP10? Does it have a adjustable gas block? If so...is it set to the correct position?
 
American eagle sells some 168gr "match" ammo they say is made for the M1A. It goes for around $19 a box and may work out well for your budget and certainly will work better in your rifle. If you wanted a rifle to shoot cheap ball ammo through, you should've bought a DPMS.
 
For as much money as they want for that gun, it should swallow PMC ammo whole and shit out BBs...or any milspec 308/x51 ammo for that matter. Whatever is broken, it's not that the bullets aren't match. Something with the rifle isn't right. Sounds like a short cycle...either gas setting, excessive bcg friction or buffer tube/spring issue. Def not the bullet. If a 2800fps round can't cycle a GAP10, I don't want one.
 
Thank you. I did not go for the Noveske gas block, since I will be running it with a can most of the time. I opted for the Precision Reflex low profile adjustable gas block. It arrived yesterday and I will install it when my can gets out of jail.

Stats:
Geiselle SSA-E Trigger
Bartlein 18" 1-11.25 Twist with 5/8x24 Threaded Barrel
Badger MK12 Gass Block
Magpul PRS Stock FDE

Thanks for your help.
 
Give it a good cleaning, get it wet and put 100-150 rds through it to break it in.
 
I have never had a hiccup of any kind with my Gap-10. I always run good match ammo in mine, and almost always 175gr. FGMM. Like others have said run a couple hundred rounds through it and make sure it well lubed. After that if ya wanna run cheap ammo give it another try. I only run match in mine because I purchased this rifle for its accuracy, shooting that other shit through it completely defeats the purpose. I rarely shoot mine under 500 yards as its become boring. This rifle is a Ferrari run premium in it.
 
If I could afford to use $1.75 per round match grade all the time, I would. I was really hoping to get away with the PMC for everyday shooting.

GMM is around for $1.15 at the moment.

The "M1A" American Eagle 168 Match, in my experience, is junk. I've tried it in a P308, bolt gun, and...sadly...an M1A. 2+ MOA in all of them but you do get the FC brass after.

Remington Premier Match 168 goes for about $0.98 right now, that seems to shoot okay in the rifles I've put it through.

Black Hills 168 is $1.33.

+1 on running the GAP wet (bolt lugs etc)
 
I would call GAP is a starter.....but here are some other thoughts as I feel more info. is needed.

You say failure to feed? It doesn't feed any rounds at all out of the magazine? You put a mag in the rifle with the bolt back and hit the bolt release and it doesn't feed a round into the chamber? If this is the issue then I would say something mechanical.

Or if it feeds out of the mag. to load the gun....but....

When you pull the trigger and the gun fires are you saying the gun is short stroking? Bolt doesn't come back far enough to eject the fired round and or pick up the next round out of the magazine? Does it do it once in a while or all the time? If just once in a while then my first suspect would be the ammo. Yes try something different if that's the case.

If the latter is the problem have you let anyone else shoot the gun? Rule yourself out is what I'm saying here. The AR10 guns are not as forgiving like a AR15. Your hold is loose/sloppy and you will see accuracy issues and I wouldn't be surprised that it wouldn't cause the gun to have a hiccup.

You have to consider the ammo and price and what you get for that price. We've built guns for guys and I get a phone call complaining about the accuracy and or function. Then to come to find out it's poor quality ammo. I'm not saying it's the issue but the possibility is there. Besides match type rifles I've seen high end pistols (like 1911 .45's as an example and others) that wouldn't function properly due to ammo as well as the shooter breaking they're wrist and that will cause functioning problems and also I've had full auto guns both belt fed and mag fed where the ammo caused cycling issues. I've seen plenty of M1A's/M14's where the gas piston will cause the rifle to short stroke/not cycle properly and it will also cause accuracy issues.

Going back to the first statement though.....be fair to GAP and give them a call and go from there.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels



If the latter is the problem have you let anyone else shoot the gun? Rule yourself out is what I'm saying here. The AR10 guns are not as forgiving like a AR15. Your hold is loose/sloppy and you will see accuracy issues and I wouldn't be surprised that it wouldn't cause the gun to have a hiccup.
 
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GMM is around for $1.15 at the moment.

The "M1A" American Eagle 168 Match, in my experience, is junk. I've tried it in a P308, bolt gun, and...sadly...an M1A. 2+ MOA in all of them but you do get the FC brass after.

Remington Premier Match 168 goes for about $0.98 right now, that seems to shoot okay in the rifles I've put it through.

Black Hills 168 is $1.33.

+1 on running the GAP wet (bolt lugs etc)

Thanks, that helps. I am going to the range again today and will put some 175 and see what happens.
 
Would someone care to explain why using the PMC 147gr ammo would cause the rifle not to function properly? I realize that a GAP-10 has a match grade barrel and a match chamber and that it's tolerances are probably a little tighter than your average gas gun, but which one of those would cause it not to function properly?

People are making the 87 octane in a Ferrari analogy and I understand exactly why you wouldn't want to do that. A Ferrari has a very high compression engine and octane is a measurement of resistance to pressure combustion. 87 octane would cause detonation or knocking as it would ignite prior to the spark plugs firing and cause all sorts of mayhem.

Can someone give me an explanation as to why this ammo wouldn't cycle a GAP-10? People run it in other gas guns all the time and most of those guns will run with anything you feed them.
 
For as much money as they want for that gun, it should swallow PMC ammo whole and shit out BBs...or any milspec 308/x51 ammo for that matter. Whatever is broken, it's not that the bullets aren't match. Something with the rifle isn't right. Sounds like a short cycle...either gas setting, excessive bcg friction or buffer tube/spring issue. Def not the bullet. If a 2800fps round can't cycle a GAP10, I don't want one.


Herein in lies the problem. All gas guns are just that GAS guns, they are built to operate around a specific pressure curve. To say it should eat anything indicates a lack of understanding of how these work. But...but.... My AR15..... Keep in mind the mass diffence in BCGs alone. That specific pressure curve relates to lifespan of parts as well as functionality. Sure, you can drill a big port in the tube, and it will eat anything - and shit BBs... In time it'll start shitting parts too. Also, if you have a large gas port you'll be overgassed with a can. Let's see boutique precision rig company... spendy platform....I'll go with they know their customer's for $200 Alex - GAP10 owners by and large shoot match ammo only and a significant percentage run a can.


Clean it...inspect the extractor...lube the shit out of it..good mags...factory match - see how it does.
 
Herein in lies the problem. All gas guns are just that GAS guns, they are built to operate around a specific pressure curve. To say it should eat anything indicates a lack of understanding of how these work. But...but.... My AR15..... Keep in mind the mass diffence in BCGs alone. That specific pressure curve relates to lifespan of parts as well as functionality. Sure, you can drill a big port in the tube, and it will eat anything - and shit BBs... In time it'll start shitting parts too. Also, if you have a large gas port you'll be overgassed with a can. Let's see boutique precision rig company... spendy platform....I'll go with they know their customer's for $200 Alex - GAP10 owners by and large shoot match ammo only and a significant percentage run a can.


Clean it...inspect the extractor...lube the shit out of it..good mags...factory match - see how it does.
No shit. So why won't you take "What is the primary factor in generatimg gas pressure" for $1000 Alex
 
GMM is around for $1.15 at the moment.

The "M1A" American Eagle 168 Match, in my experience, is junk. I've tried it in a P308, bolt gun, and...sadly...an M1A. 2+ MOA in all of them but you do get the FC brass after.

That's odd. Not discounting your experience (maybe bad lot?) but I have used the AE 168 OTM load in four different bolt rifles, it proved to be sub-moa in all of them.
 
Would someone care to explain why using the PMC 147gr ammo would cause the rifle not to function properly? I realize that a GAP-10 has a match grade barrel and a match chamber and that it's tolerances are probably a little tighter than your average gas gun, but which one of those would cause it not to function properly?

People are making the 87 octane in a Ferrari analogy and I understand exactly why you wouldn't want to do that. A Ferrari has a very high compression engine and octane is a measurement of resistance to pressure combustion. 87 octane would cause detonation or knocking as it would ignite prior to the spark plugs firing and cause all sorts of mayhem.

Can someone give me an explanation as to why this ammo wouldn't cycle a GAP-10? People run it in other gas guns all the time and most of those guns will run with anything you feed them.
Thank you. A projectile moving at nearly 2800fps has more than enough pressure to cycle any 308 gun, unless the gun is broken.

The 87 octane in a Ferrari is a bad analogy.
 
Would someone care to explain why using the PMC 147gr ammo would cause the rifle not to function properly? I realize that a GAP-10 has a match grade barrel and a match chamber and that it's tolerances are probably a little tighter than your average gas gun, but which one of those would cause it not to function properly?

People are making the 87 octane in a Ferrari analogy and I understand exactly why you wouldn't want to do that. A Ferrari has a very high compression engine and octane is a measurement of resistance to pressure combustion. 87 octane would cause detonation or knocking as it would ignite prior to the spark plugs firing and cause all sorts of mayhem.

Can someone give me an explanation as to why this ammo wouldn't cycle a GAP-10? People run it in other gas guns all the time and most of those guns will run with anything you feed them.

Some 7.62x51 ball ammo is loaded on the weaker side compared to other .308 loads. Thats not to say a proper functioning rifle shouldn't cycle ball ammo, just that some guns need a little break in before they run everything 100% with everything. A liberal coating of oil on the BCG and inside of receiver usually does the trick.
 
UPDATE: As recommended, I just shot some match 175 grain. Same thing. As a member suggested I kept the gun wet, making sure the BCG was well lubricated (although not too lubricated). It did cycle slightly better, maybe 2-3 rounds, then failure to eject with the casing which would get stuck in the ejection port or failure to feed. Accuracy is very good, with cloverleaf-ish groups at 100 yards. All told about 40 rounds so far.

As I mentioned, I have the Precision Reflex low profile adjustable gas block. The gun smith (who is a competition shooter) is convinced this is a gas issue. I was thinking of having the gunsmith install the new gas block. The other suggestion was a possible issue with the the recoil spring. I have tried calling GA Precision several times, but no one there is picking up. I will keep calling.

Thanks again in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.
 
Keep trying GAP, they will handle it. One thing to try is to load 1 round in the mag, fire it and see if the bolt locks open every time. This will tell you if the bolt is traveling rearward far enough, if it is "short stroking" it will fail to lock the bolt open on a empty mag or fail to scoop a round out of the mag.
 
That's odd. Not discounting your experience (maybe bad lot?) but I have used the AE 168 OTM load in four different bolt rifles, it proved to be sub-moa in all of them.
good to know and thanks for the info. I only tried 3 boxes, lot # unk but I have 2 more boxes here (lot# V34M093) and I will try again this weekend with an open mind :) glad to hear it's good ammo for you and didn't mean to talk trash with a small sample size
 
Dont worry you are not the first person this has happened to.I have had this problem on a couple of rifles. Ar10 rifles need breaking in sometime.You probably have an over gassing problem most likely.It causes the extractor to jump over the rim of the brass.Your gas block will fix the problem.Also check you extractor groove for gunk and put one of the rubber o rings behind the extractor.This has always fixed my problems Hope this helps Richard
 
There's no such thing as 'too wet' with a large platform AR. If its dripping off the carrier and bolt when you drop it into the upper it still isn't 'too wet'

You say you have an adjustable gas block, is it open? Open it completely if not and see if there's a change using FGMM.

What lube are you using?
 
Did you do a thorough cleaning of the gun when you got it then lube it up?

Remove charging handle and bolt. Run a wet patch of #9 or CLP through chamber and barrel then run dry patchs till clean, mop chamber, breakfree inside of upper. Spray of Remoil inside upper, lube bcg pretty wet, reassemble and fire 100rds?

I know others that had similar issues because they never cleabed the gun when they received it. After a cleaning and lubing and 100-150rds of quality ammo the gun was running like a sewing machine.

Its good to hear its getting a little better.
 
Changed scopes on one of mine once and started having issues about the same time. Come to find out the outgoing case was contacting the big target turret and causing misfeeds and jams. Slid scope and rifle issues went away!
 
Please post some pics - sounds like a nice setup

Will do, as soon as I get totally set-up. I really prefer the new handguard and it looks good in FDE. The Nightforce 5.5-22 x 50 MOAR scope seems to work really well so far.
 
Changed scopes on one of mine once and started having issues about the same time. Come to find out the outgoing case was contacting the big target turret and causing misfeeds and jams. Slid scope and rifle issues went away!

I'll definitely check that out. It never even occurred to me. The Nightforce 5.5-22 x 50 scope has a pretty big turret. Thanks.
 
Did you do a thorough cleaning of the gun when you got it then lube it up?

Remove charging handle and bolt. Run a wet patch of #9 or CLP through chamber and barrel then run dry patchs till clean, mop chamber, breakfree inside of upper. Spray of Remoil inside upper, lube bcg pretty wet, reassemble and fire 100rds?

I know others that had similar issues because they never cleabed the gun when they received it. After a cleaning and lubing and 100-150rds of quality ammo the gun was running like a sewing machine.

Its good to hear its getting a little better.

I'll clean it and oil it again. I was waiting to buy a bore guide before cleaning the barrel. The last thing I want to do is mess up the barrel. Thanks for the advice.
 
Dont worry you are not the first person this has happened to.I have had this problem on a couple of rifles. Ar10 rifles need breaking in sometime.You probably have an over gassing problem most likely.It causes the extractor to jump over the rim of the brass.Your gas block will fix the problem.Also check you extractor groove for gunk and put one of the rubber o rings behind the extractor.This has always fixed my problems Hope this helps Richard

Great advice. I'll give it a shot. Thanks.
 
GoingBallistics

Quote Originally Posted by Randoman5 View Post
Would someone care to explain why using the PMC 147gr ammo would cause the rifle not to function properly? I realize that a GAP-10 has a match grade barrel and a match chamber and that it's tolerances are probably a little tighter than your average gas gun, but which one of those would cause it not to function properly?

People are making the 87 octane in a Ferrari analogy and I understand exactly why you wouldn't want to do that. A Ferrari has a very high compression engine and octane is a measurement of resistance to pressure combustion. 87 octane would cause detonation or knocking as it would ignite prior to the spark plugs firing and cause all sorts of mayhem.

Can someone give me an explanation as to why this ammo wouldn't cycle a GAP-10? People run it in other gas guns all the time and most of those guns will run with anything you feed them.
Thank you. A projectile moving at nearly 2800fps has more than enough pressure to cycle any 308 gun, unless the gun is broken.

The 87 octane in a Ferrari is a bad analogy.

Actually, you are mistaken. Just because 147 gr ball ammo is hitting 2800 fps does not mean the ammo has the correct burn rate powder, correct port pressure, correct gas volume to cycle the BCG. Sure, you can make it cycle but then you've defeated the purpose of a high precision, purpose built AR. GAP-10 is a high precision, purpose built AR designed around firing match grade 168-175 gr ammo (most probably M118LR, Mk316 Mod0 or FGMM 175 as base line ammo). I don't ever recall seeing GAP claiming they had a general purpose, eat any and all ammo, super bad ass battle rifle. GAP says "super accurate, 20 rd, semi-auto" in description of GAP-10. GAP does not mention needing match ammo but most people buying a custom, high end, precision rifle (bolt, gas gun, single shot, any action type for that matter) do not run cheap ammo through the firearm. I'm not sure why somebody would expect a GAP-10 to eat any and all 308 ammo when it is clearly a purpose built SYSTEM; ammo is part of the SYSTEM.

87 octane in a Ferrari is not a bad analogy, you need a better understanding of dynamics of a large frame AR platform. OPs GAP-10 is most probably just fine, burn rate of powder in the 147 gr ball ammo isn't matched up well to the port size that was optimized around 175gr match ammo. Open port up to run any ol' 147 gr ball ammo and now rifle is over gassed for 175s. Fuel (ammo) has everything to do with how well the Ferriari (GAP-10) runs. Most of the fired brass I see coming out of 308 ARs that will "eat anything and shit BBs" and was loaded with a higher bullet weight has a nice burr on case head, primer pockets are stretched so brass life is pretty short.

Shooting has never been a "cheap" hobby and is only getting more expensive. Feed GAP-10 right ammo and it'll be a whole lot cheaper and more fun for you in the long run. Buying cheap ammo, chasing your tail on why it doesn't run is expensive and frustrating.
 
I don't ever recall seeing GAP claiming they had a general purpose, eat any and all ammo, super bad ass battle rifle. GAP says "super accurate, 20 rd, semi-auto" in description of GAP-10. GAP does not mention needing match ammo but most people buying a custom, high end, precision rifle (bolt, gas gun, single shot, any action type for that matter) do not run cheap ammo through the firearm.


I do believe I read in this forum, or somewhere else where Mr. Gardner does actually recommend Black Hills Match 168 BTHP. I also want to say I read somewhere that he recommends Copper Creek 168?

Says that the gun is designed to run on those.

I have exactly 160 of those through mine to date, with 20 Federal Premium Gold Medal Match 168 just for comparison.

While I don't have an adjustable gas block on mine, every one has cycled perfect, with lock back on empty. Cleaned when it arrived, small amount of Hoppes Gun grease applied to specific areas of the bolt. Nothing dripping, nothing that I would consider "wet." Cleaned again at 140 just to see how it looked. The BCG was really dirty, but I only have one other BCG to compare it to and that's on and AR15 and it's NiB-X coated.



EDIT: Found the quote, Post #750 in GAP10 ShowEm Off Pics
 
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Copper Creek has a load specifically made for the GAP. See their site for details.


"The only thing new is the history you don't know".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Dont worry you are not the first person this has happened to.I have had this problem on a couple of rifles. Ar10 rifles need breaking in sometime.You probably have an over gassing problem most likely.It causes the extractor to jump over the rim of the brass.Your gas block will fix the problem.Also check you extractor groove for gunk and put one of the rubber o rings behind the extractor.This has always fixed my problems Hope this helps Richard

What makes you think it is getting too much gas as opposed to too little?
 
Actually, you are mistaken. Just because 147 gr ball ammo is hitting 2800 fps does not mean the ammo has the correct burn rate powder, correct port pressure, correct gas volume to cycle the BCG. Sure, you can make it cycle but then you've defeated the purpose of a high precision, purpose built AR. GAP-10 is a high precision, purpose built AR designed around firing match grade 168-175 gr ammo (most probably M118LR, Mk316 Mod0 or FGMM 175 as base line ammo). I don't ever recall seeing GAP claiming they had a general purpose, eat any and all ammo, super bad ass battle rifle. GAP says "super accurate, 20 rd, semi-auto" in description of GAP-10. GAP does not mention needing match ammo but most people buying a custom, high end, precision rifle (bolt, gas gun, single shot, any action type for that matter) do not run cheap ammo through the firearm. I'm not sure why somebody would expect a GAP-10 to eat any and all 308 ammo when it is clearly a purpose built SYSTEM; ammo is part of the SYSTEM.

87 octane in a Ferrari is not a bad analogy, you need a better understanding of dynamics of a large frame AR platform. OPs GAP-10 is most probably just fine, burn rate of powder in the 147 gr ball ammo isn't matched up well to the port size that was optimized around 175gr match ammo. Open port up to run any ol' 147 gr ball ammo and now rifle is over gassed for 175s. Fuel (ammo) has everything to do with how well the Ferriari (GAP-10) runs. Most of the fired brass I see coming out of 308 ARs that will "eat anything and shit BBs" and was loaded with a higher bullet weight has a nice burr on case head, primer pockets are stretched so brass life is pretty short.

Shooting has never been a "cheap" hobby and is only getting more expensive. Feed GAP-10 right ammo and it'll be a whole lot cheaper and more fun for you in the long run. Buying cheap ammo, chasing your tail on why it doesn't run is expensive and frustrating.

Well I certainly plan to only use match ammo for now on. But, even when I switched to 175 it was still having exactly the same problems.
 
Happy to help out when I can.


"The only thing new is the history you don't know".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Great.. thanks. The Black Hills has some mixed reviews

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...lled-w-black-hills-168gr-bthp-match-ammo.html

I'm going to try the Copper Creek which sells for the same price of around $1.50 per round


Granted, I don't know shit about anything, and this is while the gun is still being broke in, and I don't have much time behind a .308 gas gun or any gun for that matter.....

I'd give the Black Hills Match 168 grain a chance before writing them off.
 

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Actually, you are mistaken. Just because 147 gr ball ammo is hitting 2800 fps does not mean the ammo has the correct burn rate powder, correct port pressure, correct gas volume to cycle the BCG. Sure, you can make it cycle but then you've defeated the purpose of a high precision, purpose built AR. GAP-10 is a high precision, purpose built AR designed around firing match grade 168-175 gr ammo (most probably M118LR, Mk316 Mod0 or FGMM 175 as base line ammo). I don't ever recall seeing GAP claiming they had a general purpose, eat any and all ammo, super bad ass battle rifle. GAP says "super accurate, 20 rd, semi-auto" in description of GAP-10. GAP does not mention needing match ammo but most people buying a custom, high end, precision rifle (bolt, gas gun, single shot, any action type for that matter) do not run cheap ammo through the firearm. I'm not sure why somebody would expect a GAP-10 to eat any and all 308 ammo when it is clearly a purpose built SYSTEM; ammo is part of the SYSTEM.

I see your point, but I really have to disagree. At the end of the day, a $3,500 AR10 should be RELIABLE. It should work. Yes, it is purpose built. But that doesn't mean it should not work. I have now been shooting only 175gn match and SAME issue.

Yes, the ammo is part of the system, for sure. If you have a weak element, the performance should naturally go down.. but it should not fail entirely. This is not a purpose built competition gun for say, hitting paper targets indoors in temp controlled conditions. It's an AR10.

I bought the gun because of the reputed high build quality and accuracy. I thought that translated into a reliable weapon system, not a finicky pre madonna that can't be relied upon when it counts.
 
Hi everyone. I just got my new GA Precision GAP-10 and having issues with Failure to feed/eject. I was using non-match grade ammo - 147 gr PMC FMJ-BT 308. I am assuming this was the problem. The first cartridge is fine but the second does not feed and sometimes the first fails to eject.

Speaking to some folks at the range, they suggested that I use a higher grain match ammo to break in the rifle. They said that after about 100 rounds or so the rifle will probably break in enough to use the 147 gain.

If I could afford to use $1.75 per round match grade all the time, I would. I was really hoping to get away with the PMC for everyday shooting.

I was going to pick up 100 rounds of 168 gr HP-BT - Federal Premium Sierra Match King Gold Medal.

What do you think? I would really appreciate your advice. Thanks. :D

Just tossing this out there... if you cannot afford to feed it match ammo, you prob should have bought a cheaper gun. I mean, $2800 (base price) for a gun but can't do better than commercial M80 ball?


Anyway, after reading the whole thread, I think the answer is to get 100rds through it of various types- if the problem presists, send it back to GAP. Don't have another smith work on it; that doesn't even make sense. Did he build it for you? Does he warranty the rifle? No? No? Send it back to GAP. You wouldn't take a brand new, off the lot truck to the local corner mechanic to be fixed if it couldn't get out of 1st gear when you bought it would you? Nope, you take it back to the manufacture.
 
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I see your point, but I really have to disagree. At the end of the day, a $3,500 AR10 should be RELIABLE. It should work. Yes, it is purpose built. But that doesn't mean it should not work. I have now been shooting only 175gn match and SAME issue.

Yes, the ammo is part of the system, for sure. If you have a weak element, the performance should naturally go down.. but it should not fail entirely. This is not a purpose built competition gun for say, hitting paper targets indoors in temp controlled conditions. It's an AR10.

I bought the gun because of the reputed high build quality and accuracy. I thought that translated into a reliable weapon system, not a finicky pre madonna that can't be relied upon when it counts.


What 175grn match ammo?

Also have you even called GAP yet?

But honestly you should just sell this and buy like a DPMS rifle.
 
UPDATE: GA Precision called me back. They were very helpful and said it was most likely a breaking-in issue. With all of the components so tight this seems the most likely scenario. I will keep feeding it it 175grn. and see what happens after a couple of hundred rounds. It's obvious that these guys take a lot of pride in their work and I have every reason to believe that GA precision will stand behind their product. I'll keep you posted.
 
I had similar issues with my high end AR10. It worked perfect only after about 200 rds and lubing the hell out of it. They just come from the factory too tight and need a break in or wear down some of the surfaces and edges that are too tight. And lubricating by taking apart the entire BCG and lubing all the sliding surfaces. Mine will shoot any 308 or 7.62x51 round but I just use match now.

Also sometimes mags will cause issues. I did not see this mentioned yet. Have you inspected your mag follower? Can you try different mag manufacturers? Does the bolt lock to the rear after you fire the last shot?

Also, have you switched out the stock? I didnt see this mentioned either. It is common for people to get these issues after changing the stock but not changing to the correct buffer system.