I have a barrel for my Desert Tech where the shoulder at the threaded muzzle appears to have been recessed just a hair too much, leaving me with a very small gap between the shoulder and my direct thread suppressor. Is this a huge issue or is it irrelevant as long as the suppressor is tight? If it's an issue, what can I do to negate it?
Suppressors Gap between shoulder and suppressor
- Thread starter canezach
- Start date
Do not fire.
Have the threads fixed.
Have the threads fixed.
I don't know who K&P is but looks like they didn't thread the barrel far enough of course. Would an accu-washer work in this situation?
https://precisionarmament.com/product/accu-washer-system/
Would definately need to look down the barrel very closely if employing this method. Like Zak said definately don't shoot it until the can is tightened down securely against the shoulder.
https://precisionarmament.com/product/accu-washer-system/
Would definately need to look down the barrel very closely if employing this method. Like Zak said definately don't shoot it until the can is tightened down securely against the shoulder.
The shoulder recesses, called a thread relief, is probably not your problem. The threads being longer probably is. The threads are most likely running into carbon on the internal threads of the can.
+1 with what Geno said.
Have you ever shot this barrel/can combo? Maybe their not made to be compatible? You can goto
https://www.advanced-armament.com/Manuals_ep_45-1.html
and near the bottom click on the pdf that has thread guide. It will illustrate how long the threads should be if the carbon isn't the issue.
Hello, even if it is carbon on the suppressor threads from shooting on another rifle, be sure the end of the muzzle threads do not go past the inside edge of the suppressor threads, or else carbon deposited on those will prevent unscrewing as you’ll have the opposite problem
Does it stop solidly or does it feel like it binds up and stops?
I’m not familiar with that suppressor but it is possible that it is indexing on the muzzle. Either way I’d have that barrel rethreaded by someone else. It looks like they used an 1/8” parting tool for the thread relief and that’s just lazy.
I’m not familiar with that suppressor but it is possible that it is indexing on the muzzle. Either way I’d have that barrel rethreaded by someone else. It looks like they used an 1/8” parting tool for the thread relief and that’s just lazy.
Geno is right. It looks like the thread relief on the barrel is fine and there is carbon in your can. Careful if you use a tap to clear the threads, its easy to knarf up the finer threads. Even if your barrel extends past the threads on the can its not a big deal unless you're machinegunning the rifle. It takes a bit of time to build up enough carbon to cause problems. As long as you remove the can before it sets a few days the carbon buildup will come off when you remove the can, which you should do after every shooting session anyway. Cans act like traps for the water vapor produced when smokeless powder is burned. Even on a stainless barrel you can have corrosion and leaving all that water in the can is asking for trouble. Shoot and remove the can......no problems. The carbon build up stays a little soft for a while but gets pretty hard after a day or two.
Frank
Frank
Thank you, gents! It was the longer threads hitting some carbon deposits in the suppressor threads. An initial soaking in KG1 took out about 95% almost instantly, but that last 5% took a while. Suppressor rests squarely against the shoulder now.
@Zak Smith and @Geno C. I measured the can threads as best I could and it looks like I have about 0.800" of internal threading and 0.610" from muzzle to shoulder. Good to go?
@Zak Smith and @Geno C. I measured the can threads as best I could and it looks like I have about 0.800" of internal threading and 0.610" from muzzle to shoulder. Good to go?
As long as the muzzle to shoulder is less than the internal thread length of the can, the problem I explained should not happen
