General Redding S Match dies question

[category_theory]

Was curious if other ls have seen this. So I recently made the switch over to Redding S type dies from Hornady match dies and everything seems perfectly fine but I noticed that my brass get kind of a “sharp” edge at the neck body junction…. See the pic. Nothing is bad about shooting them or pressure signs etc. but kind of a weird thing I’ve never seen before. Thoughts?

 

[rustyinbend]

That's not normal. Do you anneal before sizing? FL, or just neck sizing? How do you lube prior to sizing?

 

[Spatcher]

Mine don’t do that.

 

[smoothy8500]

What's up with Redding dies? They used to be top-notch quality up until the last few years or so.

 

[padom]

What's up with Redding dies? They used to be top-notch quality up until the last few years or so.

I felt the same way with both Forster and Redding. Everything is going to shit the past few years with rising prices and quality in the dumps..

I will say, L.E. Wilson Bushing FL sizing dies are where its at. I bought 3 or 4 the past 6 months instead of going Forster or Redding and the machine quality, ease of sizing, fit and finish is top notch. Also switched to their chamber type inline Micrometer seating dies with a K&M arbor and they are just so damn consistent.

 

[rustyinbend]

What's up with Redding dies? They used to be top-notch quality up until the last few years or so.

I've got some new, and some old, and they all work flawlessly. I keep them clean and lubed, anneal with every firing, am meticulous about how they're mounted, verify and adjust them regularly for drift, and use SAC bushings. I think the issue might be all the newer reloaders using them that think (a) you can mount it and forget it, (b) don't clean and lube the die, (c) use crappy steel bushings, (d) improperly clean/prep/lube their brass, and (e) don't measure and verify everything. I've noticed that it's usually (but not always) the rookies that see weird results. The veterans mostly stay quiet, or help those that are struggling. IMHO!

 

[category_theory]

That's not normal. Do you anneal before sizing? FL, or just neck sizing? How do you lube prior to sizing?

To answer this specifically: I anneal prior to resizing, I full length resize (this is the result) then mandrel the neck.

 

[rustyinbend]

To answer this specifically: I anneal prior to resizing, I full length resize (this is the result) then mandrel the neck.

Weird ... a few more questions, please indulge me.

1. When does this "crease" first show up? After sizing? After firing? After mandrel?
2. What do you use to lube before you size?
3. How do you determine how far you screw in the die? Slight cam-over? No cam-over?
4. Are you using a shellholder "kit" where you pick the right shellholder, or just a standard size shellholder?

It almost looks like the case body is being "forced" higher into the shoulder than it should. Might be interesting to back off a bit from the current screw-in spot, and see if this still happens. If it goes away with a higher die, then you can solve the shoulder bump issue a few other ways.

Just thinking out loud ...

 

[spife7980]

I had a 6 creed redding die leave a similar lip from what I can tell but mine was more forward over the shoulder and not so out away from the body. Mine was almost like they finish reamed it a few thou short of where the pre drill stopped at so it was a drilled cylinder until the reamed shoulder that undercut it a smidge.

Took a good pic showing exactly where it was messed up on several pieces of brass with my suspicion of what happened in an email and they took it back and had it fixed in no time at all.

 

[Supersubes]

What's up with Redding dies? They used to be top-notch quality up until the last few years or so.

This has been going on for two decades, and i’m a broken record on it. If they cost the same as a set of Lee dies, I wouldn't think twice about, but they're fucking consumers with shit dies and charging you extra for it.

 

[category_theory]

Weird ... a few more questions, please indulge me.

1. When does this "crease" first show up? After sizing? After firing? After mandrel?
2. What do you use to lube before you size?
3. How do you determine how far you screw in the die? Slight cam-over? No cam-over?
4. Are you using a shellholder "kit" where you pick the right shellholder, or just a standard size shellholder?

It almost looks like the case body is being "forced" higher into the shoulder than it should. Might be interesting to back off a bit from the current screw-in spot, and see if this still happens. If it goes away with a higher die, then you can solve the shoulder bump issue a few other ways.

Just thinking out loud ...

This is great!

To answer your questions:
This happens right after resizing so it’s clearly from that step. The cases have been fired a total of 6 times now. They are first annealed then decapped and then resized and then the crease shows up.

The die is set to give me a 0.002 shoulder bump. There is a slight cam over in the resizing, I am using an RCBS single stage press. And no resizing shell holder kit. Just the normal RCBS holders I always use.

 

[category_theory]

I've got some new, and some old, and they all work flawlessly. I keep them clean and lubed, anneal with every firing, am meticulous about how they're mounted, verify and adjust them regularly for drift, and use SAC bushings. I think the issue might be all the newer reloaders using them that think (a) you can mount it and forget it, (b) don't clean and lube the die, (c) use crappy steel bushings, (d) improperly clean/prep/lube their brass, and (e) don't measure and verify everything. I've noticed that it's usually (but not always) the rookies that see weird results. The veterans mostly stay quiet, or help those that are struggling. IMHO!

Nope. I clean the die after every use and I also use SAC bushings. I lube w imperial sizing wax as well. But thanks for your 2 cents.