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Gunsmithing Getting factory barrel off Tikka T3x lite

Ranger Bob

SFC, USA, Ret.
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 9, 2011
232
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Sanger, Texas
rangermadeknives.com
Probably have a few more weeks to wait on my X-caliber barrel but, I really want to get the factory barrel off the action while I have some spare time. I tried making some blocks out of oak and clamping with rosin in both my bench vise and in my shop press and putting a 31mm wrench on the outside of the action. The wrench fits nice and tight but even after heating the action with a heat gun, the barrel just ended up spinning in the blocks. I wasn't impressed with how soft the oak was so maybe I could try with some harder wood. I've got some nice stabilized maple blocks for knife handles I might bust into. Before I get to that though, I'm going to try some aluminum blocks with the rosin. The taper of the lite barrel doesn't give much to hold on to.

Question, if I bought an inside action wrench, would it be safe to use an impact wrench to break the action loose? I do have a lathe and could cut the barrel if need be but, I was hoping to avoid that. Any other advice is welcome.

Bob
 
I’ve kicked around the idea of clamping the action in a vice and using a pipe wrench on the barrel. Obviously would be hell on the finish if you’re trying to hang on to the old barrel, but might work.
 
I was just about to say that..... ??

Make sure the wrench is in there solid, and take a dead-blow hammer to the end. You absolutely need that amount of force applied over that millisecond of time. If you slowly increase torque, you're screwed.

Barrel in vise, wrench around action, 2-3 good whacks with a dead-blow or lead hammer on the end of the wrench and you're in business.
 
I second what clcustom1911 said. I always use the dead blow hammer. I wouldn't use an impact imo. Just stay after it with the hammer and be patient, it'll break loose.

I would also recommend trying the aluminum for your vise block. Sporter profile barrels suck to get a grip on. If you plan on changing barrels much in the future, I would consider getting a barrel vise with interchangeable bushings. I use mine way more than I thought I ever would.
 
You stated that you had a lathe, if you are grabbing onto the taper of the barrel, usually if you bore the bushing tapered at about 1.5 degrees it will mate the taper of the barrel. I use a hydraulic press to hold the barrel, steel blocks bored with 1.5" halfs in each block with about 50 thou clearance when closed together. 1.5" aluminum stock bored to the correct size & slotted. They don't move.
 
I’ve kicked around the idea of clamping the action in a vice and using a pipe wrench on the barrel. Obviously would be hell on the finish if you’re trying to hang on to the old barrel, but might work.

Yeah...trying to keep the unfired barrel in good shape so I can recoup some cost on this project.


You stated that you had a lathe, if you are grabbing onto the taper of the barrel, usually if you bore the bushing tapered at about 1.5 degrees it will mate the taper of the barrel. I use a hydraulic press to hold the barrel, steel blocks bored with 1.5" halfs in each block with about 50 thou clearance when closed together. 1.5" aluminum stock bored to the correct size & slotted. They don't move.

That sounds like a good system. I always try to use the "least time invested" system first but, I can see where I may end up doing something like this.

Bob
 
Duct tape. Wrap it around the barrel several times then clamp it in the barrel vise.
Yes, wack the end of the wrench with a hammer
 
Setup the barrel in the lathe, attach wrench to action, turn on lathe..........run?


In all seriousness, you need a tight setup on the barrel vise, leverage, and a few whacks with a dead blow hammer. Heat also helps. They are on tight but will come off.
 
That looks like a Wally Cooper Barrel Vise in the video above. Not a bad deal for $70 considering it includes 5 aluminum bushings .

TM6
 
2 ft long cheater pipe slipped onto the end of my action wrench works slick. But I always use a barrel vice too after wrecking a couple bench vices
 
As previously noted, get the barrel vise with the set of aluminum bushings, if you cannot make your own. I could never get any kind of wood and resin set-up to work then taking off a TRG barrel. The wood would be crushed and the barrel would still spin in it.
 
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That looks like a Wally Cooper Barrel Vise in the video above. Not a bad deal for $70 considering it includes 5 aluminum bushings .

TM6

I ordered one of these today. Would have liked to make it myself but, with all the shutdowns and social distancing, I didn't think going to my steel suppliers would be a good idea. I have plenty of aluminum bar on hand so, if need be, I can turn a custom bushing.

Bob
 
WallyCooper vise ordered. Thanks for the help Ranger Bob. Internal action wrench is here for install of new barrel. External action wrench is coming. Will be fun when it all gets here. Last decision is how I mount the vise for best result. That is a work in progress.
 
My Wally Cooper barrel vise arrived today. Had to open up the notch on one of the bushings just a tad and then it locked down tight. Took about four good blows on the wrench with a five pound dead blow hammer and it broke loose. Thanks everyone!

Bob


I used a three sided file to clean up slots on the bushings and edges of vise blocks, then parkerized my WC vise. Mounted it on a 4" pipe stand bolted to floor. Works very well and have used it on a couple T3's and older Mausers/M1917s.

I usually hit any non stainless steel actions/barrels with PB Blaster prior to any removal. They tend to rust fuse together when exposed to moisture over time.

TM6
 
I’ve clamped my barrel vice in my bench vice for the last 15 years or so. Vertically, grabbing the ear meant to bolt to the table on one side. Put it away when I’m done.

I just clamped it to one of my workbenches with a pair of large C-clamps. Clamping it at the corner of the bench allowed me to bring one C-clamp from behind and keep it out of the way of the wrench.


I used a three sided file to clean up slots on the bushings and edges of vise blocks, then parkerized my WC vise. Mounted it on a 4" pipe stand bolted to floor. Works very well and have used it on a couple T3's and older Mausers/M1917s.

I usually hit any non stainless steel actions/barrels with PB Blaster prior to any removal. They tend to rust fuse together when exposed to moisture over time.

TM6

I think I'm going to Cerakote my vise.

Bob
 
I’ve used the WC barrel vise for a couple years now. Made a new bushing for rem sporter barrel taper to hold them better. Also I cerakoted the vise as soon as I got.
 
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Hey guys, sorry to dig up this thread, but I have a proof carbon prefit coming for my CTR and had a couple of questions.
Which WC barrel vise do y’all use? Seems like he has a few for different barrel manufacturers.
Also would you recommend an external action wrench for factory barrel removal and then an internal wrench for new barrel install?
And do you think the WC vise is narrow enough for me to only be clamping on the steel portion and not the carbon of the new barrel?

If these are dumb question, I appologize, I would rather do barrels myself than pay someone.
Thanks for all of the info so far!
 
JT, I wouldn't try an internal action wrench for barrel removal. The factory barrel is on so tight that you could twist your action out of true. My machinist buddy and I worked on my TAC A1 for a long time, and finally succeeded by milling flats on the factory barrel and locking it in a vice. Then we used an external action wrench to break it loose. By accident, we discovered that if you tighten the action wrench too much then it binds the action to the barrel and makes the effort harder. So don't over-tighten the action wrench. Best of luck. Future barrels will be much easier.
 
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Just took a barrel of my T3X CTR. Used Wheeler action wrench with the bolts torqued to 35 ft lbs. Used brownells barrel vise. The barrel pop with me just putting downward pressure on the wrench. Hope this helps.
 
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Just took a barrel of my T3X CTR. Used Wheeler action wrench with the bolts torqued to 35 ft lbs. Used brownells barrel vise. The barrel pop with me just putting downward pressure on the wrench. Hope this helps.
What brownells bushing did you use on the ctr?
 
Be careful how much clamping force you apply to the action wrench, I recently worked on one and compressed the action to the point where the bolt won't fit! I've successfully removed a half dozen or so and even had to cut a couple off of earlier ones using the brownells universal action wrench with the jaw flipped upside down...... in this case the barrel came off much easier than I was expecting, broke loose on the second blow with the hammer but apparently the clamping force or something compressed the action to the point where the bolt will not fit, shit!
 

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Be careful how much clamping force you apply to the action wrench, I recently worked on one and compressed the action to the point where the bolt won't fit! I've successfully removed a half dozen or so and even had to cut a couple off of earlier ones using the brownells universal action wrench with the jaw flipped upside down...... in this case the barrel came off much easier than I was expecting, broke loose on the second blow with the hammer but apparently the clamping force or something compressed the action to the point where the bolt will not fit, shit!
Yeah I think I’m going with the relief cut after seeing your pics that really sucks.
 
Be careful how much clamping force you apply to the action wrench, I recently worked on one and compressed the action to the point where the bolt won't fit! I've successfully removed a half dozen or so and even had to cut a couple off of earlier ones using the brownells universal action wrench with the jaw flipped upside down...... in this case the barrel came off much easier than I was expecting, broke loose on the second blow with the hammer but apparently the clamping force or something compressed the action to the point where the bolt will not fit, shit!

Ouch... that hurts to look at.