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Sidearms & Scatterguns Glock Trigger Job Review

Bryan27

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 31, 2007
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Tennessee
I posted this on another forum I go to, figured I'd cut and paste it to here too if anyone is intersted...

I'm sure that in the recent Glock threads I've gone on record as being a Glock fanboy, and I am, but there are a few things that I've never been satisfied with on my out of the box Glocks. 1) The trigger pull is rough and heavy and the worst part is the long overtravel after the sear drops. It adds a "twitch" to the front sight as the round is fired. 2) The slide release is a joke. Who did they design this for and what is the shape of their thumb that they can apply downward pressure on it without turning the gun sideways. I have medium sized hands and in order to release the slide with the gun pointed down range I have to pretty much move my hand 90 degrees around the grip to give my thumb any purchase on the slide release. 3) You can't shoot straight lead bullets out of the factory barrel due to the polyagonal rifling they have. This is something that some debate about, but for me and my hands, I'm not risking having one ruin my digits when I can get a barrel that is safe to fire lead thru for about $100.

Anyways, last week I did a little bit of research and ordered some parts to take care of the triggers and slide releases on 2 of my glocks as sort of an experiment to see what I liked and what didn't. The two guns I am testing these out on are my G17 and my G21. For the G17 I ordered all aftermarket parts from Ghost Inc, for the G21 I picked up stock glock parts from the local gun shop. I've found that youtube, of all places, to be a great resource for reviews and how too's when it comes to working on my guns and usually find something interesting and relevant when I do a search there. One gem that I came across and had forgotten about is the "25 cent trigger job", I had that on the back burner for so long I'd forgotten about it. I wasn't really convinced that it would help as much as claimed, but it is basically free to do and only takes about 15-30 minutes to do so it was worth trying.

G21 parts and procedures:
- "25 cent trigger job"
- Glock factory extended slide release
- Glock factory 3.5# trigger connector

G17 parts and procedures:
- "25 cent trigger job"
- Ghost Inc "Rocket" trigger with spring and install kit (I got the "defensive carry" spring kit as I do plan to carry this gun in the winter time)
- Ghost Inc "Bullet" extended slide release.

In an effort to segregate what was working and what wasn't I did each peice of each gun seperately. I do not have a trigger pull scale so I started by dry firing each pistol several time and noting which had the lighter feel to it, the roughness of the pull and the amount of overtravel after the sear drops, relative to one another before starting and after each phase.

To start with I just replaced the easiest part, the slide releases. Looking at the replacement slide releases they both look like they would be equal, the glock part has a slightly more squared off look to it whereas the Ghost Inc part looks a little more rounded off. My initial thoughts were that the Glock part would allow easier slide release due to it's flatter top. But after installing the parts, while both are a great improvement over stock releases, I'll give the nod to the Ghost Inc part. While the Glock part looks to have a flatter top which would allow easier downward pressure on the release, when installed it actually sits with the top at about a 30 degree downward angle and maintains roughly the same stock location. The Ghost Inc release, when installed has a better feel to it and allows more purchase on the release. In addition it is actually extended back about 1/8th" more to allow better leverage on the release and makes releasing the slide much easier, it basically contacts my thumb in a better place and allows me not to think about having to release the slide.

After a few more "finger calibration tests" to the triggers, I decided that the trigger on my well worn G21 was slightly smoother and maybe a hair lighter so I decided to tackle the stock trigger on my G17 first to see if the "25 cent trigger job" would improve it's pull, it's basically a brand new gun and the parts have not had a chance to wear in yet. Basically what this trigger job involves is polishing all the mating surfaces of the moving parts involved when you squeeze the trigger. Parts that get polishe include trigger connector, sear, firing pin ramp, trigger bar and the firing pin safety (the plunger looking thing in the top of your slide. Some people use a Q-tip and Flitz metal polish, but most seem to use the Dremel tool and Flitz or some other metal polish, any way you do it should work but some ways are going to be faster than others. I didn't have any Flitz handy so I ended up using Brasso and a Dremel with a felt polishing wheel. In short, the Brasso sucked to start with and I ended up using some brown polishing compound to get it close to shiney and then switched to Brasso to finish polish the parts. After doing a thorough cleaning to remove all the polishing compound and reassembling the G17 I did another comparison of the trigger pull with the G21. After doing the 25c trigger job, there was a marked difference between the two triggers. Where there used to be uneveness in the take-up of the G17 trigger, that still existed in the G21 trigger, it was now one fluid motion back until you started putting pressure on the sear. Well worth the 30 minutes and a little elbow grease. Keeping in mind that both pistols still maintained their stock trigger parts in them at this point, including the 5.5# connectors, I would rank the 25c trigger job as improving the feel of the trigger by 75% over out of the box trigger feel. Next I did the same work on the G21 and the results were the same.

After the 25c trigger job I was down to evaluating the difference between the factory Glock 3.5# trigger connector and the Ghost Inc "Rocket" 3.5# trigger connector. With the G21 still in front of me I decided to start with the Glock connector. To start with, the Glock connector needed to be polished the same as the stock part was when I did the 25c trigger job. After that its a matter of about 2 minutes to strip the trigger and replace the part. In my side by side, calibrated finger test, the 3.5# Glock trigger felt slightly lighter, but more importantly imo took some of the "front sight twitch" out of the picture that is caused by the over travel that happens after the sear drops. Less trigger pull weight = less torque applied to the weapon when you hit the overtravel. I was fairly happy with the trigger at this point and would say that the 3.5# connector in conjunction with the 25c trigger job made for a 125% improvement in the feel of the trigger. But I'm not done yet.........
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

continued........

Now onto the Ghost Inc "Rocket" trigger connector install. I'll start by pointing out 2 things: first is that you can order the "Rocket" three different ways. 1) Just the trigger connector. 2) Trigger connector and spring kit which includes trigger spring, trigger safety spring and a firing pin spring. 3) Trigger connector, spring and install kit which comes with all of the above plus a Glock tool (3/32" punch) and a shortened slide cover for when you are fitting the trigger connector. The second thing is that the difference between the "Rocket" and a drop in or stock Glock trigger connector is that the rocket has an extra tab on it that is designed to contact the trigger bar after the sear drops to get rid of the overtravel.

Starting off, the most important thing is that you replace the stock Glock slide cover with the shortened on. As those of you who own Glocks know, the way you remove the slide requires you to dryfire the weapon before you can remove the slide. The rockets overtravel stop as it comes out of the package is designed to be fitted and is WAY too long, to the point that it will prevent you from being able to pull the trigger and you can't take the gun apart to fix it without being able to dryfire it......there IS a way, but it's a pain in the azz as it requires you taking your slide apart while it's still on the gun......Just if you are going to try this trigger job, do as I say and not as I do!

In order to compare just the trigger connectors I kept the stock springs in my G17 for the time being and went to fitting the connector. This isn't something that is hard to do, nor is it something that you are going to get right the first time, it took me about an hour to get the peice fitted to my satisfaction most of which is spent taking the gun apart and putting it back together, over and over again. If nothing else you will become an expert at detail stripping your Glock by the time you have installed this kit as you take it down to it's last peice to do so. You start by inserting it into the trigger block just like you would a stock connector, put the gun back together and try to fire it........nothing is going to happen, which is a good thing as that allows you to fit the part and get it perfect for your gun. So you take it down and file a few strokes across the overtravel stop to shorten it. Then you reassemble and try to fire, rinse and repeat. After about the 5th or 10th time of doing this with no satisfying "click" when I pulled the trigger back I decided that the stop was just way too long and took the dremel grinding wheel to it and shortened it up by about 1/32 of an inch. After hogging that off I had probably taken about a total of 1/16th of an inch off of the stop. I put it back in and it still wouldn't fire, felt like it wanted to but needed trimming just a little bit more. I went back to the fine file work and gave it about 2 or 3 more light strokes and reassembled. This time it worked! I pulled the trigger and it came to a stop, little extra squeeze and..CLICK! Rack the slide and gave it another hard squeeze and it did it again, almost there! The trick to getting to the correct length is getting the stop shortened to the point that it will allow a complete and consistant release of the sear without interferance and then remove no more. If it requires an extra squeeze at the end then you haven't gone far enough. At the point you can get the sear to drop with a little extra squeeze you are just a few file strokes away from being there. Now that it is fitted, I pulled the connector out one last time and gave it a light polishing to make sure there weren't any burrs from the file on it.

Now for the side by side comparison of the two different trigger connectors I have to give an overwhelming nod to the Ghost Inc Rocket. The pull weights felt close enough to eachother that I wouldn't want to bet on which was closer to 3.5#'s but the elimination of the overtravel really sets the Rocket head and shoulders better than the Glock part. With the elimination of overtravel there is NO movement of sight picture or that "front sight twitch". I was very happy with the way my G21 turned out, up until the point I finished the G17, still happy with it I guess but I've already ordered 6 more Ghost Inc Rocket connectors and Bullet slide releases.....the G21 is getting the treatment again along with all my glocks!

After having the trigger connector fitted and installed I almost forgot that I had the spring kit. In order to install the spring kit you, again, have to completely disassemble the gun down to it's every part including taking the firing pin assembly apart. I'm a damn pro at this now and had it apart, springs installed and back together in around 5 minutes. Hardest part is the firing pin spring and getting the two peice retainer back on.....If you have banana hands good luck is all I can say! IMO the springs that come with the kit look to be of better quality, maybe slightly heavier than the stock parts? But I did not notice a difference between them and the stock parts when using the calibrated trigger finger test.

Anyways, those few small improvements have combined to made a huge improvement and I am now satisfied with my trigger. I would say that the sum of all parts are greater than the individual improvement gains and call the G17 trigger job a 500% improvement over stock. Only thing left to do is get aftermarket barrels and I've got my ideal Glock.

What have you done to your Glock to make it better?
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

One note to add to that is since then I bought a digital trigger pull gage and have been measuring my trigger pull weights. The Glock I put the 3.5lb Ghost Rocket in shows a true 3.5lb trigger pull. The gun that got the polish job with the factory connector is right around 4.5lb-ish, both pretty consistant when I keep in mind to use the gage consistantly. Glock without any work to it was just over 5.5lbs and varied more from pull to pull, not a lot, but the spread in pull weights was about twice as much as the polished factory trigger parts. Of the three, the Rocket trigger had the most consistant pull weight. I'm thinking that the lower weight of the pull had more to do with it being consistant than the polishing did but the combination of the two makes for a very nice trigger....for a glock that is.
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

Thanks for the write up, I highly enjoyed it! I have been trying to figure out what to do with my Glock trigger next and this gives me some direction.
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

No problem and you're welcome! Some of it is coming from memory, so keep that in mind when looking at the numbers, but the results are still the same. For less than $20 I'd just buy the connector instead of the whole kit, unless you want the springs as a back up. I don't have any measured differences between the connector with and without the spring kit as I didn't have a pull gage when I installed them, but my trigger finger tells me there wasn't any noteworthy difference.
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

Glocks don't have firing pins they have strikers, and if you replace the stock striker spring with the reduced power one from the Ghost kit your asking for trouble, it will work at first but soon Fail To Fire will happen, so either put the stock striker spring back in or I highly recommend a Jager lightweight steel strike with the reduced power striker spring, no FTF, faster lock time, and about another 1/2 reduction in trigger pull.
 
Re: Glock Trigger Job Review

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glocks don't have firing pins they have strikers, and if you replace the stock striker spring with the reduced power one from the Ghost kit your asking for trouble, it will work at first but soon Fail To Fire will happen, so either put the stock striker spring back in or I highly recommend a Jager lightweight steel strike with the reduced power striker spring, no FTF, faster lock time, and about another 1/2 reduction in trigger pull. </div></div>

I haven't had a problem with it yet. There are 2 options on the kits, one for carry purposes and for .45's/10mm's and the other spring kit is for non-carry weapons and <.45/10mm rounds. I imagine the carry kit does have heavier springs than the non-carry kit as the springs are the only difference between the two. To do it over again, I would just do the 25 cent trigger job and replace the connector with the ghost rocket as I didn't feel I gained anything from the spring kit, although I went with the carry option kit since this one will be carried on occasion. If FTF becomes an issue, the stock spring pack will be going back in, takes about 10 minutes so no biggie.