Gunsmithing Got my SPSV back (.308)
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
There's a lot of air between the scope and the action. You might want to get some low rings to get a proper cheek weld on that stock.
What brand of can? Keep us posted on how she shoots, supressed and unsupressed.
There's a lot of air between the scope and the action. You might want to get some low rings to get a proper cheek weld on that stock.
What brand of can? Keep us posted on how she shoots, supressed and unsupressed.
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mavrick10_2000</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There's a lot of air between the scope and the action. You might want to get some low rings to get a proper cheek weld on that stock.
What brand of can? Keep us posted on how she shoots, supressed and unsupressed. </div></div>
+1, get some lower rings. And a decent stock would do wonders for accuracy also. Check out the B&C lite tactical stock.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mavrick10_2000</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There's a lot of air between the scope and the action. You might want to get some low rings to get a proper cheek weld on that stock.
What brand of can? Keep us posted on how she shoots, supressed and unsupressed. </div></div>
+1, get some lower rings. And a decent stock would do wonders for accuracy also. Check out the B&C lite tactical stock.
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
Actually those are ARMS low rings but I think the N/F 20moa base sets them up a bit higher. Lines up fine for me and was thinking if I dropped it any lower I might be able to see the can through
the scope. Might look into some M4 rings and try them out. The can is a SD762 hopefully get to run it next week. The sage stock works
great along with a Smith Trigger job and Break really easy to see the hit.
Actually those are ARMS low rings but I think the N/F 20moa base sets them up a bit higher. Lines up fine for me and was thinking if I dropped it any lower I might be able to see the can through
the scope. Might look into some M4 rings and try them out. The can is a SD762 hopefully get to run it next week. The sage stock works
great along with a Smith Trigger job and Break really easy to see the hit.
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
It's not the 20 MOA base, it's the ARMS cantilever rings. Those were really designed for AR type of Pic rail mounted sight picture which is why you have the higher mount.
But if they work for you. Use 'em I guess.
It's not the 20 MOA base, it's the ARMS cantilever rings. Those were really designed for AR type of Pic rail mounted sight picture which is why you have the higher mount.
But if they work for you. Use 'em I guess.
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
Did losing the last few inches change the handling much, weight wise?
Did losing the last few inches change the handling much, weight wise?
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
Didnt notice any weight changes but then again am adding a pretty heavy can. I do like it fits in the safe easier. What is a good lower cost stock if any to replace the stock one with and what benefits will I see in doing it?
Didnt notice any weight changes but then again am adding a pretty heavy can. I do like it fits in the safe easier. What is a good lower cost stock if any to replace the stock one with and what benefits will I see in doing it?
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
B&C is probably your best bet for lower cost stock, You might also find a deal on a Hogue or HS Precision take off here on the hide, but as far as benefits, you will then have a free floating Bbl and the aluminum block bedding. Just remember you'll want to get new steel bottom metal too so that you can properly torque the action to whatever stock you get. The factory bottom metal is aluminum and wont take the amount of torque you will need.
To solve this problem, I put my .308 spsv in a McRee's Precision stock. Like the AI or JAE, they eliminate the need for the steel bottom metal, while also converting the rifle to DBM. Obviously not the cheapest route, but well worth the cost, and actually turns out a little cheaper than buying the aformentioned, or an inletted stock + DBM bottom metal. Just depends on what you like and are willing to spend.
B&C is probably your best bet for lower cost stock, You might also find a deal on a Hogue or HS Precision take off here on the hide, but as far as benefits, you will then have a free floating Bbl and the aluminum block bedding. Just remember you'll want to get new steel bottom metal too so that you can properly torque the action to whatever stock you get. The factory bottom metal is aluminum and wont take the amount of torque you will need.
To solve this problem, I put my .308 spsv in a McRee's Precision stock. Like the AI or JAE, they eliminate the need for the steel bottom metal, while also converting the rifle to DBM. Obviously not the cheapest route, but well worth the cost, and actually turns out a little cheaper than buying the aformentioned, or an inletted stock + DBM bottom metal. Just depends on what you like and are willing to spend.
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
Death,
if you notice the gun is a little front end heavy you can fill the back of the stock with fiberglass resign. I just built, with that same stock, a .223 and cut the barrel to 22" then filled the back end. this gave the rifle a much better feel and balance especially w/ the can on it. it takes about 2 dixie cups.
and if you decide to get lower rings you wont see the can through the scope its too close, sight picture will be perfect.
nice rig.
kt
Death,
if you notice the gun is a little front end heavy you can fill the back of the stock with fiberglass resign. I just built, with that same stock, a .223 and cut the barrel to 22" then filled the back end. this gave the rifle a much better feel and balance especially w/ the can on it. it takes about 2 dixie cups.
and if you decide to get lower rings you wont see the can through the scope its too close, sight picture will be perfect.
nice rig.
kt
Re: Got my SPSV back (.308)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DEATH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is a good lower cost stock if any to replace the stock one with and what benefits will I see in doing it? </div></div>
Unless you have a face like a horse there is no way you are getting a proper cheek weld with that low comb and high rings.
The B&C stocks are going to be a low-cost high quality replacement that allow for consistent torque on the action. The tupperware stock it comes with does not allow for this. Using a bipod will only increase the problem. As mentioned an H&S Precision "take-off" stock is also a good alternative.
My factory SPS-V stock sits in a corner gathering dust. It really is a piece of crap. It's a testament to the 700 design that it shot as well as it did while in that stock.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DEATH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is a good lower cost stock if any to replace the stock one with and what benefits will I see in doing it? </div></div>
Unless you have a face like a horse there is no way you are getting a proper cheek weld with that low comb and high rings.
The B&C stocks are going to be a low-cost high quality replacement that allow for consistent torque on the action. The tupperware stock it comes with does not allow for this. Using a bipod will only increase the problem. As mentioned an H&S Precision "take-off" stock is also a good alternative.
My factory SPS-V stock sits in a corner gathering dust. It really is a piece of crap. It's a testament to the 700 design that it shot as well as it did while in that stock.
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