Hi all, I'm wanting your input on this. I've been reading different opinions on the net, and wanted to see what everyone here was using for lubrication on their bolt (if at all) ?
Any recommendations ?
Any recommendations ?
- Thread starter padronanniversary
- Start date
Re: Grease Bolt ?
You mean the lugs?... Nothing.
You mean the lugs?... Nothing.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I use a little white lithium grease
I use a little white lithium grease
Re: Grease Bolt ?
The lugs should ALWAYS be greased, to prevent galling.
The primary ejection cam should be greased.
The cocking ramp should be greased.
This thread could be greased.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=707558&page=1
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557935&page=1
The lugs should ALWAYS be greased, to prevent galling.
The primary ejection cam should be greased.
The cocking ramp should be greased.
This thread could be greased.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=707558&page=1
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557935&page=1
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I do use a light oil on the internal parts of the bolt but I don't want foreign matter...sand, dirt, etc. sticking to the lugs and f#*cking-up my rifle.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You mean the lugs?... Nothing.</div></div>
I do use a light oil on the internal parts of the bolt but I don't want foreign matter...sand, dirt, etc. sticking to the lugs and f#*cking-up my rifle.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You mean the lugs?... Nothing.</div></div>
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I'm probably an idiot for asking... But, what's "Galling"? I was told long ago to leave the lugs clean and try to be sure they stay that way.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: E.Shell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The lugs should ALWAYS be greased, to prevent galling.
The primary ejection cam should be greased.
The cocking ramp should be greased.
This thread could be greased.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=707558&page=1
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557935&page=1</div></div>
I'm probably an idiot for asking... But, what's "Galling"? I was told long ago to leave the lugs clean and try to be sure they stay that way.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: E.Shell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The lugs should ALWAYS be greased, to prevent galling.
The primary ejection cam should be greased.
The cocking ramp should be greased.
This thread could be greased.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=707558&page=1
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557935&page=1</div></div>
Re: Grease Bolt ?
The two can grind against each other, resulting in removal or transfer of metal, or "galling". It makes a real mess of both, requiring repair. I believe in keeping them greased.
The two can grind against each other, resulting in removal or transfer of metal, or "galling". It makes a real mess of both, requiring repair. I believe in keeping them greased.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Ah... That's what I was thinking but wouldn't grease attract foreign matter and CAUSE that problem?... Not PREVENT it???
Also, my thinking is based on use in a hostile environment. (Sandy or dirty place)
Ah... That's what I was thinking but wouldn't grease attract foreign matter and CAUSE that problem?... Not PREVENT it???
Also, my thinking is based on use in a hostile environment. (Sandy or dirty place)
Re: Grease Bolt ?
The bolt lugs on your bolt body and lug abutments in the receiver are under extreme pressure when the bolt is closed. Granted, full contact is rare in the factory rifles but, in custom built rifles, they should be in full machined contact. With full contact there's more resistance and a guarantee of galling if run dry very long. The lugs should always be kept clean and a small amount of high pressure, high temp grease applied. The same grease should also be used on the bolt body cocking cam angle and striker shroud threads. The red Shooters Choice Gun Grease is a good example of what to use.
Apply every time you clean the rifle or when the color of grease can’t be seen. If you don’t, you’ll be coming to see me or some other smith
The bolt lugs on your bolt body and lug abutments in the receiver are under extreme pressure when the bolt is closed. Granted, full contact is rare in the factory rifles but, in custom built rifles, they should be in full machined contact. With full contact there's more resistance and a guarantee of galling if run dry very long. The lugs should always be kept clean and a small amount of high pressure, high temp grease applied. The same grease should also be used on the bolt body cocking cam angle and striker shroud threads. The red Shooters Choice Gun Grease is a good example of what to use.
Apply every time you clean the rifle or when the color of grease can’t be seen. If you don’t, you’ll be coming to see me or some other smith
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I put Kroil on my bolts. I makes the bolt slide a little smoother. And a far as I know doesn't affect the gun in a bad way. Since the oil is very light I feel its protecting the bolt as well as lubricating it. Give it a try and see what you think. I wouldnt put any type of lubricant on the bolt that is not thin or clear.
I also feel it makes for less wear and tear on the bolt, it keeps the finish on the bolt too. My bolt is black, FYI.
I put Kroil on my bolts. I makes the bolt slide a little smoother. And a far as I know doesn't affect the gun in a bad way. Since the oil is very light I feel its protecting the bolt as well as lubricating it. Give it a try and see what you think. I wouldnt put any type of lubricant on the bolt that is not thin or clear.
I also feel it makes for less wear and tear on the bolt, it keeps the finish on the bolt too. My bolt is black, FYI.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Lube or oil on the bolt body transfers the same to cartridges in the magazine. Then into the chamber, then into the throat. Bad juju for accuracy.
Lube or oil on the bolt body transfers the same to cartridges in the magazine. Then into the chamber, then into the throat. Bad juju for accuracy.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Amen to Shell and Roscoe.
Amen to Shell and Roscoe.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The bolt lugs on your bolt body and lug abutments in the receiver are under extreme pressure when the bolt is closed. Granted, full contact is rare in the factory rifles but, in custom built rifles, they should be in full machined contact. With full contact there's more resistance and a guarantee of galling if run dry very long. The lugs should always be kept clean and a small amount of high pressure, high temp grease applied. The same grease should also be used on the bolt body cocking cam angle and striker shroud threads. The red Shooters Choice Gun Grease is a good example of what to use.
Apply every time you clean the rifle or when the color of grease can’t be seen. If you don’t, you’ll be coming to see me or some other smith
</div></div>
This is EXACTLY what I do and what I use. A tube of the Shooters Choice is now near gone but has lasted near 5yrs and I apply to same areas wnroscoe does after EVERY cleaning, just a small spot then work the bolt a couple of times to spread it out. I also use one of the bolt lug cleaners everytime I clean that use the little cotton dental thingy. Never had a problem with galling, grit sticking etc but then again the only time my rifles get in the dirt is when my crippled old ass falls down.LOL
You guys running them bone dry and not knowing what galling is will find out some day. Not pretty when it happens. In a severe case the reciever lug area could be ruined and/or a new bolt necessary. Once it is galled bad you may either need things machined to smoothen to function descent and headspace reset or in extreme cases not be able to machine it enough. 60,000 PSI rearward thrust against 2 dry metal surfaces with perhaps some fine paricles of dust/debris would/could do much more damage than grease holding the same dust/debris. Also the caming surface for the cocking piece is has extreme pressure on it while cocking. I have seen some older mausers galled up and took alot of work to correct to function half assed descent.
Take wnroscoe's advice or perhaps PAY him later A touch of grease is a cheap easy remedy to eliminate the chances of an expensive fix later. The internal parts of the bolt/pin assembly need little lube and should have little to deter hang fires, delayed pin drop in really cold weather but the spring sliding on the pin is alot different than the cocking/caming area and lug surfaces.
Edited to add that some smiths refuse to 100% lap the lugs, going for 75-80%) for this very reason. The small amount of clearance holds grease but also gives fine debris and escape route. Also the stiffer aftermarket firing pin springs can/will cause galling with no lube(case in point was the mauser mentioned above and my ignorance as a youngster reading that I needed a heavier spring). The factories have determined what will work the majority of the time with the least amount of side affects concerning spring pressures on firing pin assemblies. A stiffer spring causes more problems usually than it solves, unless the factory spring was weak than it is justified. You'd need a C4 charge to increase the speed of a 1/2" pin travel on a mauser moreso than a 30# spring!!!!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The bolt lugs on your bolt body and lug abutments in the receiver are under extreme pressure when the bolt is closed. Granted, full contact is rare in the factory rifles but, in custom built rifles, they should be in full machined contact. With full contact there's more resistance and a guarantee of galling if run dry very long. The lugs should always be kept clean and a small amount of high pressure, high temp grease applied. The same grease should also be used on the bolt body cocking cam angle and striker shroud threads. The red Shooters Choice Gun Grease is a good example of what to use.
Apply every time you clean the rifle or when the color of grease can’t be seen. If you don’t, you’ll be coming to see me or some other smith
</div></div>
This is EXACTLY what I do and what I use. A tube of the Shooters Choice is now near gone but has lasted near 5yrs and I apply to same areas wnroscoe does after EVERY cleaning, just a small spot then work the bolt a couple of times to spread it out. I also use one of the bolt lug cleaners everytime I clean that use the little cotton dental thingy. Never had a problem with galling, grit sticking etc but then again the only time my rifles get in the dirt is when my crippled old ass falls down.LOL
You guys running them bone dry and not knowing what galling is will find out some day. Not pretty when it happens. In a severe case the reciever lug area could be ruined and/or a new bolt necessary. Once it is galled bad you may either need things machined to smoothen to function descent and headspace reset or in extreme cases not be able to machine it enough. 60,000 PSI rearward thrust against 2 dry metal surfaces with perhaps some fine paricles of dust/debris would/could do much more damage than grease holding the same dust/debris. Also the caming surface for the cocking piece is has extreme pressure on it while cocking. I have seen some older mausers galled up and took alot of work to correct to function half assed descent.
Take wnroscoe's advice or perhaps PAY him later
Edited to add that some smiths refuse to 100% lap the lugs, going for 75-80%) for this very reason. The small amount of clearance holds grease but also gives fine debris and escape route. Also the stiffer aftermarket firing pin springs can/will cause galling with no lube(case in point was the mauser mentioned above and my ignorance as a youngster reading that I needed a heavier spring). The factories have determined what will work the majority of the time with the least amount of side affects concerning spring pressures on firing pin assemblies. A stiffer spring causes more problems usually than it solves, unless the factory spring was weak than it is justified. You'd need a C4 charge to increase the speed of a 1/2" pin travel on a mauser moreso than a 30# spring!!!!!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Could one of you fine gentlemen post a pic with little arrows pointing to all the places it should be applied? Please.
Could one of you fine gentlemen post a pic with little arrows pointing to all the places it should be applied? Please.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm probably an idiot for asking... But, what's "Galling"? I was told long ago to leave the lugs clean and try to be sure they stay that way.</div></div>
No, not an idiot, Machinery's Handbook doesn't even include information on galling, a process in which like metals sliding against each other under pressure without lubrication can cold-weld to each other. As the sliding force continues, the bearing surface tears as the weld is broken and material is torn from one side or the other. That's the technical side, but Rafael's explanation is probably close enough.
Galled bolt lugs are a very common problem, possibly due to the belief that lubrication is not necessary.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm probably an idiot for asking... But, what's "Galling"? I was told long ago to leave the lugs clean and try to be sure they stay that way.</div></div>
No, not an idiot, Machinery's Handbook doesn't even include information on galling, a process in which like metals sliding against each other under pressure without lubrication can cold-weld to each other. As the sliding force continues, the bearing surface tears as the weld is broken and material is torn from one side or the other. That's the technical side, but Rafael's explanation is probably close enough.
Galled bolt lugs are a very common problem, possibly due to the belief that lubrication is not necessary.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Kroil is a solvent, silikroil has a little lubricant in it. I use tetra grease where I can
and oil where I cant. If I am hunting in very cold or dirty air I hunt dry. At the range,
plenty of lube. No different than any other mechanical machine, plus the gun cleans
easier when the parts have a light coating of grease or oil on them.
Kroil is a solvent, silikroil has a little lubricant in it. I use tetra grease where I can
and oil where I cant. If I am hunting in very cold or dirty air I hunt dry. At the range,
plenty of lube. No different than any other mechanical machine, plus the gun cleans
easier when the parts have a light coating of grease or oil on them.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Could one of you fine gentlemen post a pic with little arrows pointing to all the places it should be applied? Please. </div></div>
Here ya go
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Could one of you fine gentlemen post a pic with little arrows pointing to all the places it should be applied? Please. </div></div>
Here ya go
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this .
Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this .
Re: Grease Bolt ?
THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU!!!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this . </div></div>
Try this
Here
Actually, here are several tools I highly recommend to any shooter
And here
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this . </div></div>
Try this
Here
Actually, here are several tools I highly recommend to any shooter
And here
Re: Grease Bolt ?
On a rifle like a Weatherby or say the new Badger action, would you just lube all the lugs on those as well I'd assume?
On a rifle like a Weatherby or say the new Badger action, would you just lube all the lugs on those as well I'd assume?
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Anywhere there is contact and pressure there will be / can be galling.
Yes, to answer your question but, you only need a small amount of grease on any of the lugs. An amount about the size of a BB will do nicely
Anywhere there is contact and pressure there will be / can be galling.
Yes, to answer your question but, you only need a small amount of grease on any of the lugs. An amount about the size of a BB will do nicely
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Anyone know which tool will work for a GAP 7000 ? Thanks again guys.
Anyone know which tool will work for a GAP 7000 ? Thanks again guys.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic?
wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic?
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone know which tool will work for a GAP 7000 ? Thanks again guys. </div></div>
Anything that will work on a Remington 700 should be same/same as GAP 7000.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone know which tool will work for a GAP 7000 ? Thanks again guys. </div></div>
Anything that will work on a Remington 700 should be same/same as GAP 7000.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anywhere there is contact and pressure there will be / can be galling.
Yes, to answer your question but, you only need a small amount of grease on any of the lugs. An amount about the size of a BB will do nicely </div></div>
+1... BINGO
I have used the red Mobil 1 synthetic universal grease for years on my benchrest rifles. Anything more than a BB size spot of grease is going to get in the way later and make a mess. I clean the bolt raceways and lug recesses quiet often. Always remove all grease from the bolt before you regrease. Just get the old junk out of the way.
Ken Kliendorst makes several different tools for stripping the bolt. All are good. But if you're like Frank, a bootlace CAN work.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anywhere there is contact and pressure there will be / can be galling.
Yes, to answer your question but, you only need a small amount of grease on any of the lugs. An amount about the size of a BB will do nicely </div></div>
+1... BINGO
I have used the red Mobil 1 synthetic universal grease for years on my benchrest rifles. Anything more than a BB size spot of grease is going to get in the way later and make a mess. I clean the bolt raceways and lug recesses quiet often. Always remove all grease from the bolt before you regrease. Just get the old junk out of the way.
Ken Kliendorst makes several different tools for stripping the bolt. All are good. But if you're like Frank, a bootlace CAN work.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have used the red Mobil 1 synthetic universal grease for years on my benchrest rifles.</div></div>
I just bought a 10 pack of the same stuff the other day, $38.99 after tax. Now, for some of those empty syringes and I'll be set, for a very long time.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have used the red Mobil 1 synthetic universal grease for years on my benchrest rifles.</div></div>
I just bought a 10 pack of the same stuff the other day, $38.99 after tax. Now, for some of those empty syringes and I'll be set, for a very long time.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic? </div></div>
No, just pointing to where it needs to be applied.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic? </div></div>
No, just pointing to where it needs to be applied.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Great stuff Guys! I'll be taking your advise and greasing the parts shown from now on! This is what I love about this sight! The wealth of information and the willingness to go out of your way to pass it along!!! Thanks to all!!!
Great stuff Guys! I'll be taking your advise and greasing the parts shown from now on! This is what I love about this sight! The wealth of information and the willingness to go out of your way to pass it along!!! Thanks to all!!!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this . </div></div>
A trick I learned in the Corps that has been repeated here....
Find a penny or dime.
Hook the cocking piece (silver "hook" on the bottom of the bolt) under your boot lace (shoelace may work, but real men wear boots) and pull up.
You will see a notch on the back of the bolt plug when you have pulled far enough. Stick the coin into the slot and relax the pressure until the coin is holding the bolt plug back.
Unscrew the firing pin assembly.
Boot laces are not necessary if you have a sharp edge on your workbench, but the chance of slipping and messing something up is limited. I just loop some 550 cord around my vise and use that (since I go barefoot a lot).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow,wnroscoe, THANKS ! Did not realize you take your bolt apart that far to grease. now the next question is how do you take ur bolt apart like that ? You guys rock with help like this . </div></div>
A trick I learned in the Corps that has been repeated here....
Find a penny or dime.
Hook the cocking piece (silver "hook" on the bottom of the bolt) under your boot lace (shoelace may work, but real men wear boots) and pull up.
You will see a notch on the back of the bolt plug when you have pulled far enough. Stick the coin into the slot and relax the pressure until the coin is holding the bolt plug back.
Unscrew the firing pin assembly.
Boot laces are not necessary if you have a sharp edge on your workbench, but the chance of slipping and messing something up is limited. I just loop some 550 cord around my vise and use that (since I go barefoot a lot).
Re: Grease Bolt ?
A technique we used at IBM for lightly greasing the interior of various complex electric typewriter assemblies without disassembly was to take a heavy grease and dilute it significantly with a fast drying solvent. Remembering that this was 30 or more years ago, pre-OSHA, we typically used Trichloroethane or Carbon Tetrachloride at the diluent.
We'd begin by bathing/soaking/flushing the assembly in just the solvent, until all the old grease was dissolved and flushed. We'd then replace the solvent with the grease/solvent solution and thoroughly soak the assembly. Finally, we'd remove and drain the assembly, and wipe off any surface liquid throughly; allowing the internal remainder to dry off overnight leaving a light coat of the grease on all the internal surfaces. It took more time, but the results were very good, and there was no assembly/disassembly to cope with.
The typewriters were a series of complex assembles, often with up to several/many hundred parts, and often the resassembly of the various component modules requires tricky, time consuming, and complex sequences of adjustments. Any technique which saved time and effort, and preserved carefully established adjustments and parts relationships was a genuine Godsend. Working on firearms is, by comparison, a far simpler task.
Greg
A technique we used at IBM for lightly greasing the interior of various complex electric typewriter assemblies without disassembly was to take a heavy grease and dilute it significantly with a fast drying solvent. Remembering that this was 30 or more years ago, pre-OSHA, we typically used Trichloroethane or Carbon Tetrachloride at the diluent.
We'd begin by bathing/soaking/flushing the assembly in just the solvent, until all the old grease was dissolved and flushed. We'd then replace the solvent with the grease/solvent solution and thoroughly soak the assembly. Finally, we'd remove and drain the assembly, and wipe off any surface liquid throughly; allowing the internal remainder to dry off overnight leaving a light coat of the grease on all the internal surfaces. It took more time, but the results were very good, and there was no assembly/disassembly to cope with.
The typewriters were a series of complex assembles, often with up to several/many hundred parts, and often the resassembly of the various component modules requires tricky, time consuming, and complex sequences of adjustments. Any technique which saved time and effort, and preserved carefully established adjustments and parts relationships was a genuine Godsend. Working on firearms is, by comparison, a far simpler task.
Greg
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I use sinclair grease that comes in the syringe. Works well, and I don't have much if an issue with it picking up sand and debris. Even when i get a hadfull of sand in there,as long as the bolt is closed and i shake it out, all is well. I use it sparingly and i am not even halfway done with the tube after several years.
Here is a pic for those that don't know about the penny trick mentioned above. The bolt shroud and pin will simply unscrew after this. The threads stay lubed just fine, I don't take the bolt apart every time. I wipe off and then grease the lugs, cocking cam, and extractor cam each time i shoot.
I use sinclair grease that comes in the syringe. Works well, and I don't have much if an issue with it picking up sand and debris. Even when i get a hadfull of sand in there,as long as the bolt is closed and i shake it out, all is well. I use it sparingly and i am not even halfway done with the tube after several years.
Here is a pic for those that don't know about the penny trick mentioned above. The bolt shroud and pin will simply unscrew after this. The threads stay lubed just fine, I don't take the bolt apart every time. I wipe off and then grease the lugs, cocking cam, and extractor cam each time i shoot.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cpl Snafu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wipe off and then grease the lugs, cocking cam, and extractor cam each time i shoot. </div></div>
Just came across this thread and am learning about this now. Are those last two- the cocking cam and extractor cam -the surfaces shown in these last two pics from wnroscoe's post?...
I can't for the life of me find a good diagram showing the names of the various parts of the bolt, so any help here would be hugely appreciated as I learn the workings.
Thanks!
-BB
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cpl Snafu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wipe off and then grease the lugs, cocking cam, and extractor cam each time i shoot. </div></div>
Just came across this thread and am learning about this now. Are those last two- the cocking cam and extractor cam -the surfaces shown in these last two pics from wnroscoe's post?...
I can't for the life of me find a good diagram showing the names of the various parts of the bolt, so any help here would be hugely appreciated as I learn the workings.
Thanks!
-BB
Re: Grease Bolt ?
tag
tag
Re: Grease Bolt ?
[/quote]
I can't for the life of me find a good diagram showing the names of the various parts of the bolt, so any help here would be hugely appreciated as I learn the workings.
Thanks!
-BB [/quote]
Here's one.
http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/rem700.htm
[/quote]
I can't for the life of me find a good diagram showing the names of the various parts of the bolt, so any help here would be hugely appreciated as I learn the workings.
Thanks!
-BB [/quote]
Here's one.
http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/rem700.htm
Re: Grease Bolt ?
B VEAL, thanks, but I meant a diagram covering the important surfaces/parts of the bolt. That's just the mfr. diagram that comes with the rifle. If anyone wants to take a minute and help us newbs out, a photo or two of your bolt labeled with every surface/part relevant to regular maintenance (cam surfaces, etc.) would be awesome. Between this thread and a PM from LoneWolf, I think I have most of it figured out, but a good visual aid will probably also help me understand function better, and be useful for others as well.
Anyone mind doing this for us?
Thanks a lot!
B VEAL, thanks, but I meant a diagram covering the important surfaces/parts of the bolt. That's just the mfr. diagram that comes with the rifle. If anyone wants to take a minute and help us newbs out, a photo or two of your bolt labeled with every surface/part relevant to regular maintenance (cam surfaces, etc.) would be awesome. Between this thread and a PM from LoneWolf, I think I have most of it figured out, but a good visual aid will probably also help me understand function better, and be useful for others as well.
Anyone mind doing this for us?
Thanks a lot!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic? </div></div>
No, just pointing to where it needs to be applied. </div></div>
Thanks for the info and pics. This is what makes the Hide so great!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wnroscoe, are you applying grease to the threads on the last pic? </div></div>
No, just pointing to where it needs to be applied. </div></div>
Thanks for the info and pics. This is what makes the Hide so great!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I don't want any of that mess in my bolt or elsewhere in my rifle for that matter, unlesss required for some reason. There ain't a reason for typical sporter rifles IME, I clean the crap out of all those parts, and then warm them up, and apply BoreTec Tef-Dri. Works day in day out, and nothing to hold onto dirt etc. and nothing to seize up. I've been on 3 hunts where rifles were so cold that the bolt lube congealed to a level that prevented ignition. This cost two good bucks, the third guy was trying to shoot a coyote, main point being their rifles wouldn't fire. We took them back to camp, performed my routine on them, and no problems sense--YMMV--good luck
I don't want any of that mess in my bolt or elsewhere in my rifle for that matter, unlesss required for some reason. There ain't a reason for typical sporter rifles IME, I clean the crap out of all those parts, and then warm them up, and apply BoreTec Tef-Dri. Works day in day out, and nothing to hold onto dirt etc. and nothing to seize up. I've been on 3 hunts where rifles were so cold that the bolt lube congealed to a level that prevented ignition. This cost two good bucks, the third guy was trying to shoot a coyote, main point being their rifles wouldn't fire. We took them back to camp, performed my routine on them, and no problems sense--YMMV--good luck
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Even though this has been said a bunch of times before me, I grease my lugs to prevent galling as they have been lapped. The rest of the bolt gets a Rem Oil bath.
Even though this has been said a bunch of times before me, I grease my lugs to prevent galling as they have been lapped. The rest of the bolt gets a Rem Oil bath.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Fish301 brings up a valid point that seems to be being missed in this thread.
That point is, that no one lube is good for all occasions. Extreme conditions require different approaches / lubes.
For me, Mobil 1 synthetic grease is the best stuff for bolt lugs in my everyday use. However, I'll be the first one to wash it all out with brake cleaner and go with dry lubes when conditions dictate that grease could be detrimental to reliable operation.
Paul
Fish301 brings up a valid point that seems to be being missed in this thread.
That point is, that no one lube is good for all occasions. Extreme conditions require different approaches / lubes.
For me, Mobil 1 synthetic grease is the best stuff for bolt lugs in my everyday use. However, I'll be the first one to wash it all out with brake cleaner and go with dry lubes when conditions dictate that grease could be detrimental to reliable operation.
Paul
Re: Grease Bolt ?
tag
tag
Re: Grease Bolt ?
This has been extremely helpful .... THANKS
This has been extremely helpful .... THANKS
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Good thread. I didn't realize that I needed to grease the threads on the shroud. I bought the bolt disassembly kit from Sinclair. Definitely a must for shooters. About every 500 rounds or so, I pull out the ejector. Brass flakes can collect in there. I had to purchase the kit when I popped a few primers and blew gasses and carbon into the bolt. The ejector simply stopped working. Fine for F-class and benchrest. Not good for much else.
Cleanliness is next to godliness.
BTW... I use the Sinclair's bolt grease.
OK, and now the obligatory German Salazar link:
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/12/basics-bolt-maintenance.html
Good thread. I didn't realize that I needed to grease the threads on the shroud. I bought the bolt disassembly kit from Sinclair. Definitely a must for shooters. About every 500 rounds or so, I pull out the ejector. Brass flakes can collect in there. I had to purchase the kit when I popped a few primers and blew gasses and carbon into the bolt. The ejector simply stopped working. Fine for F-class and benchrest. Not good for much else.
Cleanliness is next to godliness.
BTW... I use the Sinclair's bolt grease.
OK, and now the obligatory German Salazar link:
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/12/basics-bolt-maintenance.html
Re: Grease Bolt ?
I used lubrication intended for firearms for a while but now I just use automotive stuff. I figured if it's good enough for my engines and wheel bearings it's more than good enough for my guns. I also like the heavy weight motor oil and wheel bearing grease since it tends to stay in place way better than gun oil, it's also way cheaper.
I used lubrication intended for firearms for a while but now I just use automotive stuff. I figured if it's good enough for my engines and wheel bearings it's more than good enough for my guns. I also like the heavy weight motor oil and wheel bearing grease since it tends to stay in place way better than gun oil, it's also way cheaper.
Re: Grease Bolt ?
For those that haven't seen the boot lace tip from Frank here you go.
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For those that haven't seen the boot lace tip from Frank here you go.
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/hDy2GrIx6p8"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/hDy2GrIx6p8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Re: Grease Bolt ?
Tag... Good stuff guys, thanks!
Tag... Good stuff guys, thanks!
Re: Grease Bolt ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clay_James</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used lubrication intended for firearms for a while but now I just use automotive stuff. I figured if it's good enough for my engines and wheel bearings it's more than good enough for my guns. I also like the heavy weight motor oil and wheel bearing grease since it tends to stay in place way better than gun oil, it's also way cheaper. </div></div>
Ditto, I have been doing this for years. ARP assembly lube will make the slide on a pistol like butter. Depending on the application I use different lubes/greases but yes, I grease the bolt, same on my Garands.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clay_James</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used lubrication intended for firearms for a while but now I just use automotive stuff. I figured if it's good enough for my engines and wheel bearings it's more than good enough for my guns. I also like the heavy weight motor oil and wheel bearing grease since it tends to stay in place way better than gun oil, it's also way cheaper. </div></div>
Ditto, I have been doing this for years. ARP assembly lube will make the slide on a pistol like butter. Depending on the application I use different lubes/greases but yes, I grease the bolt, same on my Garands.
