I’ll be honest, I was turned away from SLA printing when I found out how brittle the materials were and have gotten lost in the world of FDM. Looks like I have some research to do and get my SLA printer fired back up. What resin should I look into?
- Thread starter 702lineman
- Start date
An interesting article concerning the strength of SLA models.
all3dp.com
SLA Resin Strength: How Strong Is 3D Printed Resin? | All3DP
SLA resin prints aren't famous for their strength. Yet, you might be surprised at how they compare to other materials...
all3dp.com I use 3/4 PRUSA Tough Resin and 1/4 Siraya Blu. Takes away all the brittleness. Actually I've used the Blu with many different resins as an additive. Works well. I've never had really good luck with the strength between layers with FMD models. I've got a lot of functional models made with my FMD printer, but none that I would recommend for use on a firearm.
One other bit of advice, keep in mind the shrinkage of PLA models once they are cured.
Last edited:
I'm going to have to give the parallax nob a try
Not particularly gun related, but I sketched up a miter gauge to replace one I broke, and a magnetic work stop spider for a 3 jaw scroll chuck. If anyone happens to need such things. Both are up on thingiverse.
Very nice. Did you find these files on line???
My 3D printed Vudoo/AICS Mag blocks are available again. New design that doesn't interfere with the Vudoo extraction hooks.
I'm also doing an insert for the pelican 1040 case to hold 200 rounds of 22LR. The stock case is designed around the Lapua / SK ammo racks, but I can modify it for other types if needed.
I have some pre-printed inserts available.
Ifyou want your name or customized text in it I would have to print those to order.
Colors currently available are gold, copper, silver, transparent red, solid red, navy blue, silk blue, silk Orange, and matte black. I only have a couple of each color pre-printed, if the color isn't available I can print more.
I'm also doing an insert for the pelican 1040 case to hold 200 rounds of 22LR. The stock case is designed around the Lapua / SK ammo racks, but I can modify it for other types if needed.
I have some pre-printed inserts available.
Ifyou want your name or customized text in it I would have to print those to order.
Colors currently available are gold, copper, silver, transparent red, solid red, navy blue, silk blue, silk Orange, and matte black. I only have a couple of each color pre-printed, if the color isn't available I can print more.
3D Printed Rimfire AICS Mag/Chamber Block (Vudoo, Bergara etc...)
1/8" Elastic Rope retains the open bolt to keep it from flopping around I print this with 3 wall layers and top/bottom and 20% infill If you print it yourself, print in the same orientation as seen in the product image Don't leave in direct sunlight in your vehicle or other hot areas. They're...
www.atlastargetworks.com 
3D Printed Dope Card Holder - Printer File (.STL)
I print this with 2mm walls and top/bottom and 20% infill Print the card holder with the open end on the print bed Print the keeper with the completely flat side on the print bed
www.atlastargetworks.com 
3D Printed RCBS Ram Primer Slot Block - Printer File (.STL)
After printing this improved primer catcher from over on Thingiverse.com I needed something to block slot for the priming tool. This little part keeps the primers from falling out the wrong side of the ram making sure that they end up in your primer catcher and not on the floor. I print this...
www.atlastargetworks.com 
3D Printed T-Post Mount - Printer File (.STL)
If you like shooting steel with .308 or smaller and are looking for a project for your 3D printer this T-Post Mount might just be for you. You've still got to pickup some chain or our rubber straps and a carabener but all in all you can get into a mount pretty cheap. We don't have any long term...
www.atlastargetworks.com 
3D Printed T-Post Wind Flag Mount - Printer File (.STL)
If you're a cheater like me and want an easy way to help read the wind then this little doohicky is for you. It easil mounts to a T-Post to hold a wind flag. Check out the video below for details on how to set it up.
www.atlastargetworks.com 
Here is another article. With the proper paperwork this would be an interesting project.
Man Makes Silencer with 3D Printer
Read: Man Makes Silencer with 3D Printer from Dave Merrill on March 24, 2019 for Recoil.
www.recoilweb.com
Same results I have achieved printing 22 suppressors out of PETG, around a 50 rnd life. 3D printing is an easy way to proof out internal geometry before going all out with machined parts for testing. The fact that all the nessaccery ATF identification can be printed right on the part instead of having to engrave the tube separately is a bonus. And yes, I am Class 3 SOT
Thanks for the info on the Atlas Target Works STL's...I just printed the DOPE card holder.
So wondering is one of you guys could print a bullet holder insert for the harbor freight apache cases the 1800 and 2800. Would life to see with a 3D printer insert how many rounds you could get in there. If it was reasonably priced I would be in for a few for sure
Anyone with a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper will benefit from one of these, it's a replacement powder dump tube tap with a lever to grab hold of and open and closed indicators. You just pop the original off and push this one on. I've uploaded it to Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736792
That has to be the best upgrade for the FA. Can't count the times I forgot it was open.
I've only used it twice and left it open after the first time. Next job is some solid extended feet so I can fit something under it to drain the powder without having to move it and re-level it.
Awesome thread! I do a ton of printing (and selling of gun related prints) but won't like my site here. I will link an article to a 3D printed CZ scorpion though. Currently working on printing all the parts for it, pretty pumped. All the files are available online.
AWCY's Hybrid 3D Printed Scorpion EVO - The Kommando Blog
AWCY's Hybrid 3D Printed Scorpion EVO - The Kommando Blog
Has anyone tested any ar parts besides the lower? For instance; gas block, muzzle brake, hand guard, ect.?
I'm printing a pistol blade stabilizer as I type this for grins. Wondering what other parts people have printed and how long they held up.
I'm printing a pistol blade stabilizer as I type this for grins. Wondering what other parts people have printed and how long they held up.
I would never consider a gas block or a muzzle brake with hobbyist type 3d printers. My son has a printer that prints stuff that goes on Space X rockets, but you or I would never be able to afford one of them.
Are you printing metal or polymer? Can't imagine a polymer anything that sees pressure or heat (gas block, muzzle brake, etc)
What do you mean by cleats? Like claw feet?
Yes
Unless they were printed in metal I don't think that would hold
Maybe not for people that abuse it. Its not an intricate fragile part. Worth a shot, they want almost $80 for a set.
Attachments
It’s not particularly intricate but it is a loadbearing part. 3-D printed plastic will not hold up in that position. Even the nylon and carbon fiber filament mixtures Would have difficulty with the part that was that directly loadbearing bearing
How much load is it really bearing?
What's the height and diameter of the internal mounting portion?
Well, depends on the rifle and the shooting position, but the weight of the rifle and a portion of your body weight.
I measure these things by the investment in the part in relation to it's inevitable failure. At the end of the day, you'll have 10-15 minutes of design work and $2 worth of polymer into it so why not? The difficulty would be the detent ball, which I would replace with a press fit pin to keep them from rotating.
10 to 15 minutes of design work is... optimistic. But it lasted you more than a day of actual field use, I’d be surprised.
I can get it to you in a few hours.
This might come in handy for anyone with an autotrickler without the autothrow. It's a mount for a Lee perfect powder measure to the A&D lid.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4762745
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4762745
10 to 15 minutes is realistic. For people that know what they're doing in CAD it doesn't take long. If I had the necessary dimensions its literally 5 minutes or less...
You could make these last a while with the proper print orientation and printing parameters. Will the last a lifetime like steel ones? No. But no one is expecting them to.
Did you ever get this? Thought I could draw an option up.
Yeah, he pm'ed me. .4895 diameter .6 high, .090 detent centered at .4 high is what I have.
Late to the party but this is the one I use the most. Load it in Fusion360 and customize to whatever you want/need for your specific scope.
Customizable Scope Throw Lever by mvasilakis
Someone mentioned an issue they had with my last throw lever design. ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080614 ) The lever hit their bolt so to cycle a round they would need to mess with the scope. Not ideal. It got me thinking and as I learned Fusion360 (Last model was made in Rhino) I...
www.thingiverse.com 
Pelican 1040, 22LR Ammo Storage by A-bear
Work on the beta testing is completed. You can see in the final design in the photos. The tray does not sit on the bottom of the case, leaving a little run to store the empty (flat folded) ammo cartons. The tray was designed for use with the solid cover 1040 or 1050... On the solid cover...
www.thingiverse.com 
Wanted to protect the turret caps on this M40A5's S&B. Simple and easy.
Also Made some stackable cheek piece spacers. This prevents loosing cheek height when the screws eventually come loose and makes cheek height repeatable when you take it off for cleaning.
Also Made some stackable cheek piece spacers. This prevents loosing cheek height when the screws eventually come loose and makes cheek height repeatable when you take it off for cleaning.
Willing to share the CAD file for the spacers?
Absolutely! I actually have extras. If you want, you can DM me your info and I'll send you what I got. It's 6 stacks and 4 of the thin shims. For reference, I only used 4 stacks and 4 shims. So that should give you over an 1" of cheek rise. If not, I can try to send the file. I've never actually tried to send one of these files. Would that be through email? And would you need the .stl or Gcode file? Either way I'll give it a try.
Awesome, will send you a PM.
Similar threads
Gunsmithing Go-to for high end files?
