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Hacksaw+Rem 5r= Poor man's Gladius? *Updated with results in 1st post*

RyeDaddy

Dickhole
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 19, 2009
996
12
Hellbound in Fort Worth, TX
So I sold my POF, after 3 years I finally got bored. Sold her to a good friend who I know will treat the lady right. Now I needed something to go on hunting escapades. My new bitch had to be accurate, light (8lbs or less naked) and not throw my precious brass out into the woods or fart in my face when using a suppressor. The new lady would also have to be short enough to get into or out of a truck quickly. I have a metric shitload of 308 bullets and brass, so it would make sense to stick with the old warhorse.

A short bolt gun was in order. I didn't have the budget to go full custom this time around so I decided I should look into a rifle I know is a pretty safe bet for accuracy, as well as not needing any immediate upgrades (like a decent stock or trigger). I've had several factory Remingtons that shot well so I decided to get another 5R. The 20" threaded looked promising, but the Xmark Pro I wouldn't be happy with and 20" was on the longer side of what I felt appropriate. Alas! I found a like new 24" 5R built in 2005 and it came with a Badger base and the original old style Remington trigger. It looks like it has never been fired, not a scratch. This I could work with. For the price I paid it would be worth paying a gunsmith to cut and thread it, I'd come out ahead and I'd have a better crown and threads too.

I took the new beauty to the range and in 20 rounds the factory trigger broke. Well, fuck. Good excuse to try the new Timney, it'll be here tomorrow. But for 3 5 shot groups in factory form the old(new to me) girl averaged about 0.7 MOA at 200 yards with 175 FGMM, the largest being 0.85. Promising, and completely adequate for my purposes of hunting at 300 yards or less and banging steel out to 800.

So, being the curious type I am and knowing that I would be sending the rifle off for a new crown, thread and Cerakote job I decided this was a rare opportunity to see just how much a section of barrel weighs. Also it was a chance to try my hand at cutting a barrel, and what effect a less than prefect crown would have.

I broke out the trusty dull hacksaw that was a hand-me-down from Dear Old Dad and went to work. I cut the barrel as straight as I could to 19" from the bolt face. Took way longer than I expected, but came out satisfactorily I think. The rifle will be going to SAC to be finished at 18.5", and I can't wait to have a suppressed 308 again. I deburred the crown with a Lyman VLD deburring tool that I use for chamfering case mouths, just a couple of light spins.

The rifle as it sits tonight, 19" barrel:
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Here is the 5" I cut off, it weighs exactly 10 ounces:
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2 pics of the muzzle after my efforts, the Sharpie line is 18.5" from bolt face:
foj901.jpg


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Going to the range Wednesday before I ship it, I have to see the results before Mark cleans it up. Anybody want to guess how it will shoot with the same 175 FGMM? It's hideous and I have zero experience to draw from but I'm going to guess it will still be very close to 1 MOA. If it pans out maybe I'll offer my services commercially, may have to make an initial investment in a Sawzall, but should pay for itself in no time. :)

FWIW, my goal was 10 lbs unloaded, and I'm 5 ounces over that as pictured with Badger alloy rings and base, a NF 2.5-10x42, stock pack and sling. Close enough.

UPDATE 8/13/14

Took it to the range this morning, weather was amazing for August in Texas. About 80 degrees when I started and very little wind. I brought the same 175 FGMM ammo (different box but same lot as the one before, purchased at same time), along with 8 rounds each of two different handloads that have proven to work well in other 308's I have owned. The results below are all shots fired. No attempt was made to compensate for wind, as they were under 10 MPH the whole time and moving around. I don't feel wind changed results at all. POI changes were me changing the scope adjustments, but all individual groups were fired with the same solution dialed in for the shots contained in it. 2 rounds were fired before this at the berm to smooth any burrs that may have been there and to foul the bore which was cleaned after cutting to remove any steel shavings that might have fallen down the barrel during cutting.

Picture 1 is at 100 yards, the orange dot target is 1.5" diameter.
aew4z7.jpg


Group 1 was a simple 3 shot group to check zero with 175 FGMM, looks good. POI was roughly the same as it had been previous to my cutting of the barrel, just a little bit left.

Groups 2 and 3 were 5 shot groups with 175 FGMM. Not the same results as I had with the factory barrel intact. I'm not sure what to make of this. It could be a result of the crown, but I think more likely the barrel harmonics having changed means this barrel doesn't like FGMM anymore. The scope was not adjusted between groups 1, 2, and 3 and notice how POI moves around. That would not surprise me as my 16.5" POF didn't shoot this ammo any better than this.

Group 4 was a 7 shot group of what was the master load for my POF as well as a 20" AAC-SD I had. It's a clone of the Hornady Match 168 Amax factory load except I'm using Lapua brass and loading them to 2.835" OAL, which is the longest I can load in the BDL magazine. You'll notice one called bad shot marked out with a blue Sharpie that I did not include. That one was all me, not used to having such a light trigger as this new Timney Calvin Elite(set at 8 oz.), and the rifle just went off before I was ready and meaning to pull the trigger. This is just a sample of one group, but it seems to shoot as well as anything ever has in a factory Remington. Well pleased with it and looking forward to verifying this result when the rifle comes back from being threaded and crowned. If it pans out this will probably be the load I use all the time, 168 Amax's have been excellent for hunting in my experience and should work fine for steel at reasonable distances.

Groups 5 and 6 were a load that had worked extremely well in my POF, a 155 Scenar over 44.9 grains of IMR 8208 XBR in Lapua brass. The numbers are on them are backwards vs the order they were fired in. 6 was a 5 shot, I adjusted the scope afterwards and fired the remaining 3 rounds, making group 5. With none of these loads having been worked up for this rifle I feel this shows promise.

Lastly, I fired a 5 shot group at 200 yards with the 175 FGMM, and got results much like it had at 100. Pretty close to MOA, but not nearly as good as good as it had shot prior to the hack job. The orange aiming dot is 1" diameter.

2rgzybr.jpg


So there you have it. 3 different bullets, and 3 different powders. In conclusion I would say that these results are not defintive as I can't tell whether the crown or a change in harmonics caused the change in precision with 175 FGMM. I am however closer to believing that the crown is not as important as some make it out to be after seeing how well the 168 Amax load did. That one is unique in that it has worked well in two other short 308's. I wish I had gotten some before and after chronograph data as well, but I will eventually get some accurate numbers when the rifle is back from the smith.

UPDATE 9/7/14

Rifle still has not been sent out for crown and threads, taking it pig hunting for a couple of days before I send it out. Took it back to the range to re-zero after having it all disassembled this past week and remounting the scope. Here's the 168 Amax load with 44.2 grains of Varget again. Three 5 shot groups. Still looking good as is. Stragglers are scope adjustments.

98ytkn.jpg


UPDATE 9/10/14

Ok, one last update before it gets finished. This one I think most people would be more interested in because it's farther than 100 yards.

Took the rifle pig hunting but didn't see any oinkers so this morning before leaving I set up a target at 416 yards and let all 13 rounds I brought fly. I didn't have any velocity data or DOPE so I guessed at elevation without adjusting for wind. That is the 3 shot labeled group 3 that the wind had pushed off the paper. I adjusted fire after going downrange to check and fired group 2 which contains 6 shots. Then went up another 0.4 mils to keep the last group on paper but as a seperate grouping of 4 shots. Winds were squirrely, west TX is a good place to learn wind calls.

I'd be happy to leave the rifle like this if I didn't need it threaded for a can. If anyone is curious, I ran the drop through JBM and came up with ~2590 FPS. This unworked up load is Lapua brass, CCI 200 Primer, 44.2 grains of Varget and a 168 Amax seated at 2.200" base-ogive (2.835" OAL)

id4xlk.jpg


Life is too short not to indulge ourselves. Stop being a pussy and break out the tools (or the Krylon).
 
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Guess that factory threaded 20" 5R option is looking a lot better now. I don't know what you paid, but if you wanted a 20" 5R threaded, I wouldn't have let a $40 trigger keep me from buying a NIB gun.
I hope it all works out for you in the end.
 

Jeez, navy! Ya could have at least sprung for a new blade! I think the heat may be getting to ya. Now ya need a new file. That work should get you banned. The bullets are gonna fly away, from shame, a little wounded from that crown, and drop to the ground and cry, at MOA
 
Years ago, the old McMillan "Sniper School", now GPS Defense, was one of the earlier prophets preaching the gospel of shorter barrels on precision rifles. IIRC they'd let students shoot their long barrels, then shoot some of the schoolhouse short barreled rifles and compare. They'd then assist the students in hand-cutting their barrels down if they chose to do so. I think they used a sawzall and a hand crowning tool and were more than satisfied with the accuracy results.
 
The Over-Rated Crown

How can a barrel with a crown that has been absolutely destroyed shoot under ¾ MOA? Beats me. I saw it and I still don’t believe it. Well I do believe it because I saw it, but I can’t explain it. And since I can’t explain it I am going to continue to insist on having as perfect a crown as is possible. But if I ever see a guy shorten a barrel with a hacksaw, knock off the sharp edges with a file and crown it with an RCBS case mouth chamfering tool, I don’t think I’ll tell him that it won’t shoot. I’ll just wait and see.
 
Great write up. Looking forward to the results. I'll bet it's still under a minute.
 
I actually did that to a 5-R barrel after I "ringed" it due to a stupid mistake. Cut off 4". If you take a flat file and just file the muzzle to a nice flat surface @90 degrees to the bore it will shoot a lot better than everyone thinks.

I filed mine down then used a Brownells Crown cutting reamer (11 degrees) and put a nice smooth crown on the hacked off barrel by hand. Was able to shoot sub .5 MOA with the barrel whacked off to 20".

Take a look at the "New Crown" video that Larry Potterfield has on his Midway USA site.


As a last note, if one files a 90 degree crown on a barrel and wants to see if it's "even", just clean the surface well and shoot several rounds. Then look for little "smoke trails" at the end of each "land". If these little "trails" are even in shape and length, you did good.
 
If it pans out maybe I'll offer my services commercially, may have to make an initial investment in a Sawzall, but should pay for itself in no time. :)

Hey, forget the sawzall, step up and get a Harbor Freight "Chop Saw". Surface will be smooth and square enough to match some "factory crowns".
 
So, I wanna hear the result! Oh, wait, I guess you haven't had a chance to find out yet????


Nah, Wednesday the 13th is the day. Working dayshifts till then.

I think RedmanSS is on to something. The Timney will help, and I will certainly be very focused on proving internet lore wrong.

We'll see. I'll post at least one group pic Wednesday evening.
 
On another note, this rifle has the shortest throat of any Remington 308 factory barrel I've owned. Into the lands at 2.295" base-ogive. That gives an OAL of 2.895" with 155 Scenars.

All the others I've measured have been at least 0.040" longer than that.
 
Going to be surprised! If you have time get a good file set and square it up a little, Smoke trick will work well. Chop saws with squaring device work well.
 
Finish off the crown with a brass screw in your drill with lapping compound and it will be perfect.
 
You know, I did something similar to a Yugo SKS I bought with my C&R a few years ago. I was ordering a couple "unissued" ones from Aim I think and they had some "shooter" grades for about $80 bucks so I got one just to F around with. Anyhow, I cut the grenade launcher off with a hack saw and re-crowned the muzzle using a brass acorn nut threaded onto a piece of threaded stock chucked up in my drill and used valve lapping compound on the nut. Put it in one of those Tapco plastic stocks and I'll be damned it shoots pretty much as good as my true unissued Russian SKS.
 
This has been done a lot and the reports are from one end of the spectrum to the other. I'm with Redman and Chaser. After a couple of rounds, a reduction of .15MOA.
 

This. I know it goes against almost everything this community is about, but I shoot with a benchrest guy who regularly scores 285-295 in our local 1000yd matches. He said he got a new scope for his 7wsm and forgot to weigh the rig. Well he was a few ounces over at the IBS deal to qualify for light gun so he took a hacksaw and chopped off 3-4 inches right there. He made weight and shot something like a 290. Since then he added a tuner and says he can't tell a difference from perfect crown to hacksaw beyond loss of velocity.

I know this is one Internet guy telling a story about a friend so take it for what you want. Helluva story though!
 
My guess is it will shoot a smaller group than it did because the shorter barrel is stiffer.

My other guess is the bullet will impact a different spot on the target because it leaves the barrel differently than before.
 
My guess is it will shoot a smaller group than it did because the shorter barrel is stiffer.

My other guess is the bullet will impact a different spot on the target because it leaves the barrel differently than before.


+1
 
On inexpensive hunting rifles I have hacksawed many a barrel knowING that if Accuracy suffered I could always take it into a gunsmith and have it recut and crowned. I've done it several times and never had I had to go with plan b. But this is for 1 moa or less hunting rigs. Also big point to anyone else doing this is to remember the 26.5 inch or so overall minimum rifle length and the 16 inch barrel length. Don't get sent to a pound me in the ass prison over a half inch. I always cut my barrels at 17 or so, so that no matter what ruler they used I was gtg and if it deterorieated the rifles accuracy I had another shot at trimming the barell by a pro. I had excellent results from everything from a super cheap h&r rifle to a browning low wall, a 10/22 and several rem 700s. My money is on similar accuracy as before.... best of luck op!
 
I read a short article written by Richard Franklin who is a very well respected gunsmith in the benchrest community on how he tried to kill the accuracy of of a Remington chambered in 6PPC he had. He cut one bolt lug considerably shorter than the other, cut the receiver face out of true, cut over a foot off of the barrel at a very good angle with a hack saw and crowned it with a file. After each modification he retested the rifle. Group size never changed but point of impact did.
 
It looks like you did a fine job. I think you should leave it.
 
I don't have anything against gunsmiths but if I can do the work I'd rather do it than send it off and then have to wait.

Here's a photo of my 5-R crown after I cut the barrel off 4".

ry%3D480


The tool cost me less (under $100 total for tool, pilot, and handle) than what the gunsmith would charge and I've used it to recrown three more barrels. The "edge" that the tool left around the edge was just removed with some time using a flat mill file.

BTW, having the crown cutting reamer and pilot is nice. I can also touch up the crown from time to time if it gets "boogered" from a cleaning took or whatever.

BTW, the crap you see on the metal surface is lint that the flash magnify's. Didn't notice it before snapping the pic.
 
I really want to try this, but not sure I have the cojones to do it.

What part of the "this" are you talking about, cutting the barrel off or re-crowning it yourself?

Cutting off is NBD. Draw a line around the barrel where you want to cut it off then using a fresh, sharp hacksaw blade just cut it off. Use a flat Mill file and square off the end of he barrel. If you do a good job of this and get the flat surface square with the bore you now have a 90 degree crown which most bench rest shooters use.

If you want to recess the crown and give it an 11 degree (or 79 degree if you wish), buy a crown cutting reamer and the proper pilot.

To keep chips out of the barrel stuff the end of he barrel with some wheel bearing grease first. Put a little on the pilot too. Turn the cutter a couple turns or so (you don't really need to buy the handle as you can chuck the screw in a cordless drill and use a nice slow speed) then remove it. Clean the pilot of grease and chips and clean out the end of the barrel with a q-tip or two. Repeat, cleaning chips out before they get between pilot and lands. This will eliminate or at least minimize any scratching to the surface of the lands although they will disappear after a few dozen rounds if you do get a few there.

You don't need "cojones" to do it, only patience. In the end you'll end up with a job that will rival many of the crown jobs done on a lathe.
 
Guesses on how this will shoot? Hacksaw+Rem 5r= Poor man's Gladius!

Poi will change, barrel harmonics and change of the rifling when it leaves. (Agree) i don't think ryedaddy will see a group size change unless he takes it well past 100 yards.( I could be way wrong idk just a guess). Like someone else said bench rest shooters have a 0 crown. Will be interesting to see.
 
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Had a savage model 12 22-250 with a 26" barrel. My buddy Cut it off to 17" and crowned it with a rcbs chamfer tool. Shot 3/8" with a couple different hand loads... But boy was it loud... Made a great truck gun and coyote gun. Those loads were worked up and not factory though.
 
A few years ago, I took a "Heavy carbine" class with John McPhee.
He told us how they used a dull hacksaw blade in a tent in the desert to cut down an SR25. Said the it looked like a slant brake AK, but they took it out and started killing bad guys with it.
 
It loved the 168's!

I'll bet if you squared up that muzzle with a file, and polished the crown with a chucked up round head bolt in a hand drill and some lapping compound, it would shoot as good as anything.