Hardto chamber,brass and loads. Read it before, am I wrong?

[goose_boy]

Gearing up for my 500yd pdog challenge with my 700 SPSV. Going with Rem brass, Win LR primers, 50gr Vmax, and 8208 XBR as long as it doesn't make trouble.

I had a few fire formed brass but due to some other input I full length sized the Rem brass I will be using. Some was shot through other rifles so it was necessary anyhow. The headspace seems similar. I feel some resistance on closing the bolt with this brass and loaded rounds, just wondering if this is normal. I chambered a factory round and it was easier. Should I bump my shoulders more or is this a product of tight tolerance brass?

I have primarily been loading for an AR so neck sizing and minimum bump are a new process for me. I feel I understand them in concept but the actual feel of them is what I need to learn, and I think you guys are the people to ask.


Thanks guys.

 

[Huckleberry75]

may need to bump shoulders just a touch more.

 

[timelinex]

If there is a slight resistance and that's all,your ok. I don't see a reason to be worried about a slight resistance. Remember , the less sizing you do n the brass, the better shape it will be.

 

[korykhunter]

If the tension is consistent you should be ok. If you have to stand on them you may want to bump them a little.

 

[Suasponte]

If you have the means to check your headspace I would do so. You do not want to be on the firing line and jamb a round into
your chamber and get it stuck. Seem guys do that too many times.

Terry

 

[turbo54]

If you have the means to check your headspace I would do so. You do not want to be on the firing line and jamb a round into
your chamber and get it stuck. Seem guys do that too many times.

Terry

Textbook response.

If you don't have the means to measure what you're doing to your cases with your sizing die, you should get it ASAP. It is a fundamental aspect of precision reloading.

 

[FLIGHT762]

If you have the means to check your headspace I would do so. You do not want to be on the firing line and jamb a round into
your chamber and get it stuck. Seem guys do that too many times.

Terry

Textbook response.



If you don't have the means to measure what you're doing to your cases with your sizing die, you should get it ASAP. It is a fundamental aspect of precision reloading.

Exactly right. I like this quote from another hide member: "Reloading without mics, guages and chrono's is like flying without nav gear. You spend a good portion of the time not knowing where you are."

 

[KYpatriot]

Also check your overall length and make sure the resistance isnt from jamming too much into the lands. Too little shoulder bump might mean a stuck case or embarrassment on the line, jamming too much into the lands can mean picking the receiver out if your face.

 

[goose_boy]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have headspace and OGive comparator gauges, and after much trying I determined there is absolutely no way a 50gr will be able to hit the lands on my factory 22-250 700. In fact I ended up seating about .250 short of lands and that is a good bit longer than Hornady lists.

So follow up question, can I bump the shoulder with a neck sizing die with the spindle removed without pulling the rounds apart?

 

[Deadshot2]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have headspace and OGive comparator gauges, and after much trying I determined there is absolutely no way a 50gr will be able to hit the lands on my factory 22-250 700. In fact I ended up seating about .250 short of lands and that is a good bit longer than Hornady lists.

So follow up question, can I bump the shoulder with a neck sizing die with the spindle removed without pulling the rounds apart?

I do it all the time with a Forster Shoulder Bump/Bushing die. Just remove all the "guts" and bump the shoulder. The shell holder has a hole larget than the primer so it won't set off the round. I've also used the Redding Body die although it sizes farther down the case wall than the Forster.

Out of curiosity, are you crimping? If so this could be a problem if your seater/crimp die is not adjusted properly. It can be causing the bulge that keeps the round from chambering easily.

Oh, by the way, get one of EGW's Chamber gauges. Allows you to check the case in batches so you don't have hard to chamber rounds when you get to the range.

 

[goose_boy]

I'm using Redding dies, from what I read they supposedly have a built in roll crimp. I have the seating die adjusted for the bolt gun rounds so it has little to no crimp applied. For the AR I put just enough crimp that it doesn't buckle/bulge. I don't see any buckling or bulging on these cases.

 

[FLIGHT762]

So follow up question, can I bump the shoulder with a neck sizing die with the spindle removed without pulling the rounds apart?

I'm using Redding dies

If you're using a Redding neck only die, it will NOT bump the shoulder back. Most neck only dies only size the neck. If you want to bump shoulders back without decapping and sizing the neck, you can buy a Redding body die or use a Redding F/L S bushing die with the bushing and decapper / spindle removed.

A Redding body die is a good accessory to have. It's saved me a few times from having to disassemble ammunition that wouldn't chamber due to not enough F/L sizing.

 

[goose_boy]

Ok thanks for the help guys. Seeing as these are just my test loads, ill probably just shoot the 24 I have already loaded since they chamber ok, just not as good as I'd like. The remaining brass ill bump the shoulders back another couple thousandths.