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Have I ruined my Accuracy International AT?

S

SPRword

Private
Minuteman
Sep 24, 2022
40
7
Minnesota
Well gents, for those of you who remember, I posted a week or two ago about an AI AW that I come across locally. I took everyone’s advice and passed on it. To my profit, I came across a very reasonably priced AT pretty soon after this that arrived today. It came with a surefire muzzle device installed that I attempted to replaced with an ASR mount.

In the process of removing the extremely tight Surefire, the barrel itself came loose in the action. Remembering that these have removable barrels, but with no idea beyond the basics of how they work, I removed the barrel lock screw completely, unthreaded the barrel from the action to continue working on removing the muzzle device in my vice, and rethreaded the screw back in so as to not lose it. Now, after googling how to reinstall the barrel, it’s come to my attention that removing that barrel lock screw entirely is explicitly prohibited in the manual, as is threading it back in without a barrel in the action. Basically I did this entire process exactly the wrong way. I should say that based on the feedback that my Allen wrench gave me, when I unthreaded the barrel lock screw it was not torqued to the recommended 49 inch pounds. I also didn’t thread it in very tight after that. Hopefully that helps me here, but I’m not an expert as my conduct clearly shows.

Key take always- when it comes to an expensive gun with a unique feature, read the manual BEFORE you do this. With all that said, I’m wondering if anyone here, maybe an AI armorer or similar, can tell me how screwed I am? Thanks in advance everyone. Learning experience for sure….
 
I personally don’t think you’re screwed at all. I know several member who have taken them completely out. I’m sure some have stripped the head and replaced them

I wouldn’t gorilla wrench it back in without the barrel. I’m assuming they don’t want you removing so you don’t cross thread it back in the action

I may be completely wrong but it’s just a clamp on the threads of the barrel. Pending you don’t cross thread the screw or pinch the action so tight you can’t thread a barrel I can’t see where it be an issue

Call mile high. I’d be interested in what they say. I’ve seen this in the manual as well
 
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I’m feeling much less stupid now, or at least less dangerously stupid. I’ll give Mile high a shout and see what they say. Appreciate it y’all.
 
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The only worry removing the lock screw is dropping the washer into the cavity under the action, it can be nearly impossible to get back out without debonding the action and removing it from the chassis.

If you really want to screw things up, tighten the lock screw without a barrel installed in the action...
 
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Kiba said:
The only worry removing the lock screw is dropping the washer into the cavity under the action, it can be nearly impossible to get back out without debonding the action and removing it from the chassis.

If you really want to screw things up, tighten the lock screw without a barrel installed in the action...
Click to expand...
Considering I did tighten it back in without the barrel (not super tight,) what kinda trouble am I looking at?

As an aside, what is the torque spec for the actual barrel mating up to the receiver? May as well do that right if nothing else.
 
SPRword said:
Considering I did tighten it back in without the barrel (not super tight,) what kinda trouble am I looking at?

As an aside, what is the torque spec for the actual barrel mating up to the receiver? May as well do that right if nothing else.
Click to expand...
I go hand tight on the barrel. Then snug with this tiny barrel wrench I have. Enough I can remove with the same small wrench when needed.

Loosen two turns and see if the barrel threads in smoothly to the action.

I doubt you hurt anything
 
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SPRword said:
Considering I did tighten it back in without the barrel (not super tight,) what kinda trouble am I looking at?

As an aside, what is the torque spec for the actual barrel mating up to the receiver? May as well do that right if nothing else.
Click to expand...

If you tighten the lock screw down without a barrel in the action you can pinch the H-cuts in the action together further than they were designed to deflect and potentially damage the action, making it difficult to install a barrel in the best case or breaking one or both of the H-cuts off the action in the worst case.

With the barrel out the quick lock screw should always be backed off some.

If the barrel still threads into the action easily all the way to the shoulder with the quick lock screw loose and the barrel holds tight after torquing the quick lock screw everything is ok.
 
Kiba said:
If you tighten the lock screw down without a barrel in the action you can pinch the H-cuts in the action together further than they were designed to deflect and potentially damage the action, making it difficult to install a barrel in the best case or breaking one or both of the H-cuts off the action in the worst case.

With the barrel out the quick lock screw should always be backed off some.

If the barrel still threads into the action easily all the way to the shoulder with the quick lock screw loose and the barrel holds tight after torquing the quick lock screw everything is ok.
Click to expand...
Perfect! The barrel threads in just fine. I think we’re probably ok then. I did leave a message with Mile High so we’ll see what they say, but it sounds/looks like I’m not as badly situated as I expected.
 
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Your fine the only reason they don't want you taking it out is if you cross thread it your are screwed and if you drop the washer in there somehow it's going to be a pita to get it back
 
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Surefire brakes (not breaks) come with a packet of "Rocksett" *stuff*.
It's kind of like locktite for familiarity sake.

You'll have to heat the brake so it will come off (that is, if they used the rocksett shit) .
Been there, done that.
Don't lose the timing shims if there are any on there.

Acetone should remove any rocksett residue if need be.
Don't get any on anything but the barrel.....it will fuck up most finishes.....like on the chassis.
 
Holy shit timing...
Someone just posted a surefire brake in the for sale section.....scuse me for ganking the pic.
You can clearly see the rocksett tube/packet thing in the package.


SF-FH762SV-scar.jpg
 
After reading this, I pulled my Barrett MRAD out of the safe, fondled it for a few minutes, and thanked it for not being an AI.
Quick question: What is a "barrel nut"?
:ROFLMAO:
 
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n2ishun said:
Surefire brakes (not breaks) come with a packet of "Rocksett" *stuff*.
It's kind of like locktite for familiarity sake.

You'll have to heat the brake so it will come off (that is, if they used the rocksett shit) .
Been there, done that.
Don't lose the timing shims if there are any on there.

Acetone should remove any rocksett residue if need be.
Don't get any on anything but the barrel.....it will fuck up most finishes.....like on the chassis.
Click to expand...
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t rocksett heat resistant more so than anything else? Similar in strength to blue loctite?

Thought soaking in water overnight was a recommended method?

I only ask because I think I rocksetted a brake a long time ago. I don’t remember but was thinking of removing it yesterday. Figured I’d soak overnight if I decide to attempt removal
 
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rustyinbend said:
Damn ... it takes two screws on my MRAD to swap the barrel ... I'm throwing this POS in the nearest dumpster.
Click to expand...
It’s like 4 on those desert techs…..at that point I’d summon my non AI peasants to just swap it for me
 
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rustyinbend said:
Damn ... it takes two screws on my MRAD to swap the barrel ... I'm throwing this POS in the nearest dumpster.
Click to expand...

Prolly should before your receiver cracks...

Ai's swap barrels with 1 screw and I have done quite a few tests just torquing my barrel on without using the screw and it shoots just as good... No barrel extensions...

We also don't need to swap scopes for each barrel like you do cuz we got a pen and paper and can write down the offset without buying 4 scopes for 1 rifle....
 
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rustyinbend said:
After reading this, I pulled my Barrett MRAD out of the safe, fondled it for a few minutes, and thanked it for not being an AI.
Quick question: What is a "barrel nut"?
:ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Why would you ask an AI owner that?
 
theLBC said:
Well gents, for those of you who remember, I posted a week or two ago about an AI AW that I come across locally. I took everyone’s advice and passed on it. To my profit, I came across a very reasonably priced AT pretty soon after this that arrived today. It came with a surefire muzzle device installed that I attempted to replaced with an ASR mount.

In the process of removing the extremely tight Surefire, the barrel itself came loose in the action. Remembering that these have removable barrels, but with no idea beyond the basics of how they work, I removed the barrel lock screw completely, unthreaded the barrel from the action to continue working on removing the muzzle device in my vice, and rethreaded the screw back in so as to not lose it. Now, after googling how to reinstall the barrel, it’s come to my attention that removing that barrel lock screw entirely is explicitly prohibited in the manual, as is threading it back in without a barrel in the action. Basically I did this entire process exactly the wrong way. I should say that based on the feedback that my Allen wrench gave me, when I unthreaded the barrel lock screw it was not torqued to the recommended 49 inch pounds. I also didn’t thread it in very tight after that. Hopefully that helps me here, but I’m not an expert as my conduct clearly shows.

Key take always- when it comes to an expensive gun with a unique feature, read the manual BEFORE you do this. With all that said, I’m wondering if anyone here, maybe an AI armorer or similar, can tell me how screwed I am? Thanks in advance everyone. Learning experience for sure….
Click to expand...

I want to know who the neckbeard was that told you to pass on the Arctic Warfare?!?! Wtf. Unless price was stupid.... You find ways to make the AW happen

hafejd30 said:
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t rocksett heat resistant more so than anything else? Similar in strength to blue loctite?

Thought soaking in water overnight was a recommended method?

I only ask because I think I rocksetted a brake a long time ago. I don’t remember but was thinking of removing it yesterday. Figured I’d soak overnight if I decide to attempt removal
Click to expand...

Rockset is high heat resistant. Water soluble.

That said, everytime I've used it, it's screwed me by coming unglued. Apparently I can use locktite just fine, Rockset is either trash or it's my kryptonite
 
rustyinbend said:
The OP was describing having to lock things and screw things with rings and actions ... and I got confused. My MRAD is so simple, and I'm so simple ... it's a perfect match for my below-average IQ. I'm just not smart enough to own an AI.
Click to expand...
No, he was talking about one screw - that's all there is on an AI. Hard to get any simpler than that.
The rest of it was about a muzzle brake.
 
rustyinbend said:
The OP was describing having to lock things and screw things with rings and actions ... and I got confused. My MRAD is so simple, and I'm so simple ... it's a perfect match for my below-average IQ. I'm just not smart enough to own an AI.
Click to expand...

It's okay there is still room on the ai team...sell that POS mrad and jump on board you can handle it... Lots of Marines operating AI's am I right @M8541Reaper
 
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Charger442 said:
I want to know who the neckbeard was that told you to pass on the Arctic Warfare?!?! Wtf. Unless price was stupid.... You find ways to make the AW happen



Rockset is high heat resistant. Water soluble.

That said, everytime I've used it, it's screwed me by coming unglued. Apparently I can use locktite just fine, Rockset is either trash or it's my kryptonite
Click to expand...
Price was high, it was a 1.0, and the barrel was cut down. One day I’ll find a good deal on a nice green folder, but until then the AT should be just fine.

As to the Rocksett- I can say this, whatever variant of Rocksett my man used to put this muzzle device on… it sure ain’t gonna back out on you…
 
Huskydriver said:
It's okay there is still room on the ai team...sell that POS mrad and jump on board you can handle it... Lots of Marines operating AI's am I right @M8541Reaper
Click to expand...
#Fax
The MRAD is for 38yr old dudes who still think it’s cool to put “no girls aloud” (they spell it like that because they don’t know better) signs on their bedroom doors.

Disclaimer: I can’t spell or shoot but I was told I’m special.
 
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Kiba said:
The only worry removing the lock screw is dropping the washer into the cavity under the action, it can be nearly impossible to get back out without debonding the action and removing it from the chassis.

If you really want to screw things up, tighten the lock screw without a barrel installed in the action...
Click to expand...
Final question for you guys, what washer are you talking about? Is there supposed to be a washer under the screw? I’m seeing black metal under there, but that looks like it may be part of the chassis or reviver itself.
 
Yes, there should be a washer under the head of the barrel locking screw. If you take the screw completely out the washer can fall out of place and become trapped in the space in the chassis underneath the receiver. It is my understanding the only way to get it out is to de-bond the receiver from the chassis. Perhaps a call to Mile High or AINA for guidance is in order if you lost yours.
 
Charger442 said:
That said, everytime I've used it, it's screwed me by coming unglued. Apparently I can use locktite just fine, Rockset is either trash or it's my kryptonite
Click to expand...
I have never had any luck with that shit either only reason I keep the little packet of it that comes with any muzzle devices I buy is so can I prove I didn't use that shit if I ever want to resale said muzzle device.
 
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n2ishun said:
Surefire brakes (not breaks) come with a packet of "Rocksett" *stuff*.
It's kind of like locktite for familiarity sake.

You'll have to heat the brake so it will come off (that is, if they used the rocksett shit) .
Been there, done that.
Don't lose the timing shims if there are any on there.

Acetone should remove any rocksett residue if need be.
Don't get any on anything but the barrel.....it will fuck up most finishes.....like on the chassis.
Click to expand...
Rocksett has a working temp rating of over 2000F. The correct removal procedure is soaking in warm water. How many times have you "been there, done that"?
 
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vh20 said:
Yes, there should be a washer under the head of the barrel locking screw. If you take the screw completely out the washer can fall out of place and become trapped in the space in the chassis underneath the receiver. It is my understanding the only way to get it out is to de-bond the receiver from the chassis. Perhaps a call to Mile High or AINA for guidance is in order if you lost yours.
Click to expand...
Very exciting, maybe I am screwed after all. Any chance you or anyone else has a picture of this washer? I can’t seem to tell if what I’m looking at is a black washer or the chassis itself.
 
SPRword said:
Price was high, it was a 1.0, and the barrel was cut down. One day I’ll find a good deal on a nice green folder, but until then the AT should be just fine.

As to the Rocksett- I can say this, whatever variant of Rocksett my man used to put this muzzle device on… it sure ain’t gonna back out on you…
Click to expand...

What is "high"? You know if it's still for sale?
 
Charger442 said:
What is "high"? You know if it's still for sale?
Click to expand...
www.snipershide.com

Arctic warfare 1.0, fair deal?

Hello gents. I’ve been in the market for a thumbhole AI rifle for a few months now. I was mainly looking at AT’s with the thumbhole skins, however I have come across an opportunity to pick up an Arctic Warfare 1.0 with the fixed comb and black fixed stock. I can get it for 4k. Doesn’t seem like...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
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SPRword said:
It was at the Woodbury MN Cabelas, they wanted 4k for it,

Also, I checked, no washer. And I thought I was out of the woods…
Click to expand...

Call mh... They will sell you like 3 quik loc screws and washers for like 3 bucks
 
Huskydriver said:
Call mh... They will sell you like 3 quik loc screws and washers for like 3 bucks
Click to expand...
Excellent, will do. Do I need to worry about the one that I lost being stuck inside this thing somewhere? a poster above mentioned needing to debond the action if the washer falls behind and into the chassis. I don’t hear anything rattling, but I also don’t see it on my floor or my work bench. If that washer is in there is she going to cause me any trouble?
 
SPRword said:
Excellent, will do. Do I need to worry about the one that I lost being stuck inside this thing somewhere? a poster above mentioned needing to debond the action if the washer falls behind and into the chassis. I don’t hear anything rattling, but I also don’t see it on my floor or my work bench. If that washer is in there is she going to cause me any trouble?
Click to expand...

If you don't hear it rattling, really high chances are it's not in there.... I have debonded ai's it's NBD. Just get a new washer and move on with your life
 
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