I have a R700 LA in 7 rem mag. I removed the factory barrel and installed a .300 prc remage. If I use the stock recoil lug, I should be able to reinstall the 7 rem mag barrel and have it headspace properly. Right? And if I red loctite the barrel nut to the remage barrel the headspace should be correct if I use the same recoil lug and swap barrels. Right?
- Thread starter Jscb1b
- Start date
Yes- on the shouldered barrel, and as long as the nut doesn't move and you torque them to the same specs then you would be good. It's still never a bad idea to double check after you do it though.
Yes and yes
Yes, but always assume you are an idiot and CHECK IT. (nothing personal--better the KNOW than to ASSUME)
I've recently put red loctite on a couple barrel nuts. I put a witness mark on the barrel, the nut and the recoil lug so I know if anything moves. I don't even use a torque wrench to re-install, just tighten back up to my mark. 
Scotch tape is a bout .002". stick 2 pieces to the back of a case and trim it flush. boom no-go gauge.
I would sure like to hear a little more on the scotch tape method for I can not find a set of gauges for 223 Rem in stock anywhere, I am getting ready to attempt to put an Origin and a Shilen Savage barrel together. This will be my first head spacing project so I am asking for some advice.
Scotch rape is just an easy adhesive shim to stick to the back of the gauge (or brass case). You can use anything. I use brass shim stock in various thicknesses for this, as its less squishy, and easily cut with scissors.
Get the "Down and Dirty" set from Manson Reamers. $75 (not including shipping) for the Go, No-Go, Field.
The way the tape trick works- you put a layer (or 2) of scotch tape on the "case head" end of the Go gauge (increasing the length). This semi-simulates a No-Go gauge. No-go gauges are a somewhat arbitrary dimension between a Go (min headspace length) and a Field gauge (max headspace length). Some companies might make their No-Go 0.003" larger than their go, some might go 0.004" or insert any arbitrary number in between. It just has to be larger than the Go gauge, hence why you can make a pseudo-No-Go gauge. Failing a No-go gauge test is not the end of the world. It should not chamber a Field gauge (upper limit) which is the theoretical safety limit. You should not try to make a No-Go into a Field with the tape trick (safety reasons).
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Just check , not in stock at PT&G
Have you seen any information on how to remove firing pin and ejector on an Origin?
What I meant by information is disassembling an Origin bolt.
Thanks, Yes I am still in the learning stage on many things when it comes to building a rifle for there are so many different thoughts when asking a question on others' opinions.
Yes, I have been reloading for 8 to 10 years for my Ruger, CZ, and Tikka. I just wanted to try and upgrade to a custom rifle.
If you were asking, I am at present using Sierra 69 gn and lapua brass for my RPR.
Again Thanks for taking the time to help. I want to apply all I can when it comes to safety and get the best accuracy I can for both the rifle and the load.
Just removed and repla. the firing pin. Worked so smooth. Much easier than my CZ and about the same as a Ruger. Again thanks, you did your good deed for today.
Where did this internet legend come from? Most US manufacturers produce brass that is anywhere from .002" to .004" LESS THAN SAAMI "Go gauge" specifications.
So adding tape puts you "where ???" in relation to No Go gauges?
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Doesn’t matter if it works with his ammo and he doesn’t get new different ammo that’s longer.
It may not be absolute but relative to his chamber it’ll be fine. (So long as his sizing die isn’t that much too long)
