• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Help Diagnose this Shooting Error

TwoNiner

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 4, 2013
134
0
64
Orange County, CA
I took my new Savage LRP to the Southern California desert today to stretch its legs. Despite 100F temperatures the rifle excelled with my first batch of hand-loads! Average velocities out of the 26" barrel were around 2710-2780 with 41.5gr of H4350. I still seem to be getting some 40-50fps velocity variations even with hand loads, mixed with occasional tight velocity groups of <10ES, but I'm thinking the higher ES groups are due the barrel still being relatively new (less than 150 rounds through it).

savagelrp.jpg


After sighting in the rifle I got some very pleasing 1 moa groups at 100 yards. I know 1MOA is nothing compared to the rigs and marksmen on this forum, but I'm new to prone rifle shooting...which leads me to my question...I noticed that after some shots the rifle would be cocked to the right (clockwise) from the shooter's position. I would have to re-adjust the atlas bipod via the swivel and rotate it back with my grip hand to get the vertical cross hair back to where it should be.

savagelrp2.jpg


Is this a problem with my form/shooting technique? I was using a Badger bone sandbag rest, held with my hand, to support the butt stock of the rifle. I also had a slight amount of forward pressure on the butt of the rifle so the bipod was firmly pressed into my shooting mat.
 
Doesnt look like you have any kind of level on your scope or rifle. I would start with that. With the Atlas, is there any kind of lock so when you do get level you can lock a certain amount of cant to keep you level? I have them on my Harris bipod and think they are a must.
 
You're experiencing the torque of the groove/twist of the round in the barrel when it's fired. If your bipod has a swivel, tighten it up. Preloading the bipod can help if done right (and hurt if done wrong).

ES's like that (70 FPS!) are often due to poor charge-measuring or seating-depth variances.

One other thing, if it's 100º and you're shooting 9" off the ground don't expect the tightest groups, mirage will kill your sight picture.
 
Are both shoulders perpendicular to the rifle when you're set up, or is your left shoulder well ahead of your right?
 
Don't "Grab" your file w/ your strong hand.

ie. Don't hold your rifle's stock with the hand that's firing off the rounds.

Place your right thumb behind the trigger guard and squeeze the trigger (as if you were pinching the two together). Many great champion shooters use this technique.

I too agree that a bubble level is essential.

vfin
 
All great advice and nice to be reiterated from time to time. I had forgotten about tightening the bipod swivel, since I note the same issue when shooting prone. Thanks
 
If recoil is moving your rifle far to the right I think you should reposition your odd so ite behind the rifle more. If done correctly reticle should hardly move from target.

Check training vids here on this forum for proper position and trigger pull its well worth the coin

Night eagle
 
Thank you to everyone for your helpful suggestions.

I will try to tighten the swivel on the atlas. It already feels fairly tight, but I'll give it a shot.

I only used gentle pressure on the rifle with my strong hand.

I don't have a bubble level for the scope but I also do not see how it will help this problem. When I am behind the rifle and position the reticle to what I think it level, I can step back and see that the rifle is in fact near perfectly level. After shooting, the rifle is visibly cocked clockwise when standing behind it.

I can't tell if my shoulders are perfectly square...good idea though. Next time I go out I will bring a tripod and tape myself shooting to verify that my body is in alignment!

Regarding rifle preload, why is it bad sometimes?

Now you guys have me interested in the training videos...
 
Don't go cranking the crap out of the swivel nut, it isn't designed to completely "lock" in place and you're likely to do some damage to it. Go as tight as you can get with your fingers, that's about as tight as it will go, although it will still definitely cant to some extent with enough rounds fired. I find that putting a moderate to medium amount of torque on the stock will bring it back plumb without too much trouble. Obviously, the less tight it is, the less force is required to bring it back, however, the easier it will start to cant. So it's a trade-off. Some of what you experience may also be due to the bipod leg digging a hole in the dirt underneath your pad. A board of some type may also help with your issue.