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Help me fix my screw up ( resized brass)

JMcQ

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 19, 2019
194
156
SC
FYI I’m not new to reloading, but most has been straight wall.
I resized about 60-70 Lapua 6.5 cases and I bumped the shoulder back about .006 vs the .001 I should have done. I basically followed the instructions on screw down the die give it a twist etc etc. ( I have bought headspace gauges now) While I’m sure I can load and fire it’s a waste of bullets and barrel life.

My question is would priming them and “fire forming with no bullet be a option. I have never fire formed so so I’ll be reading up on it later but I saw someone did cream of wheat and crisco with unique.
I’m obviously not trying to do some sort of wildcat we’re only talking about a couple thousands of a in.

Anyway I’m open to advice whether it’s trying to fix them just shoot them or write it off as a lesson learned
 
How do you "fire-form" without firing a round? I'll be watching this one ... as I have no idea how one would do that. I can't ever remember reading about how "cream of wheat and crisco" were used in a ballistic context.
 
How do you "fire-form" without firing a round? I'll be watching this one ... as I have no idea how one would do that. I can't ever remember reading about how "cream of wheat and crisco" were used in a ballistic context.

Prime the case add a charge of a faster postol powder then pack the case with cream of wheat and a little Crisco at the top to keep the cream of wheat from falling out.
I will have to fire it that way, but it’s supposed to generate enough pressure to form the case some.
It sounds reasonable to do that, but that’s why I’m posting it as a question. Just because I read it on the Internet does it mean it’s a good idea.
Hope that clarifies what I’m talking about so I don’t sound like a complete idiot.
 
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How do you "fire-form" without firing a round? I'll be watching this one ... as I have no idea how one would do that. I can't ever remember reading about how "cream of wheat and crisco" were used in a ballistic context.

I believe I have heard of folks just using wax instead of loading a round to fire form brass in this situation but its not something ive ever tried personally.
 
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At the bottom is where I read about it if anyone was intrested.
 
Prime the case add a charge of a faster postol powder then pack the case with cream of wheat and a little Crisco at the top to keep the cream of wheat from falling out.
I will have to fire it that way, but it’s supposed to generate enough pressure to form the case some.
It sounds reasonable to do that, but that’s why I’m posting it as a question. Just because I read it on the Internet does it mean it’s a good idea.
Hope that clarifies what I’m talking about so I don’t sound like a complete idiot.
Wait, what, ... and then you shoot that stuff into your barrel via a primer shot? I just don't see how creating a mess of your barrel is easier than just using extra or mismatched supplies to fire a round. I still don't get it. But it's probably just me ...
 
Just shoot them and don't resize that far again. I've worked up loads with virgin brass that was .006" short compared to fired and it works just fine. I even shot an ELR match with that virgin .006" short brass and did fairly well. You may need to tweak it slightly the next go round although I've never really had to do that.

I've fireformed quite a few wildcats with COW, titewad and a little tissue stuffed in the neck. It heats up a barrel real fast, makes a mess and doesn't do much for your case when you can just shoot them.
 
Wait, what, ... and then you shoot that stuff into your barrel via a primer shot? I just don't see how creating a mess of your barrel is easier than just using extra or mismatched supplies to fire a round. I still don't get it. But it's probably just me ...


Hey I posted to get feedback so I appreciate the input. I did post the link where I read about using the COW method.
As you suggested I could just load some of them up and shoot them and save myself the hassle. I admit it sounds like a better Idea as I go back and read my post.
I have some good data on my rifle in the lower velocity node so it wouldn’t be a complete waste. Honestly if it weren’t once fired Lapua I would just throw the brass in a drawer and forget about it.
I’m certain I’m over thinking it so I’m definitely not taking any offense to what your saying.
 


At the bottom is where I read about it if anyone was intrested.
Well ... never suspected fire-forming as a use for Crisco and Cream of Wheat ... learn something new every day. Although I think I'd just use a light powder load and bullets from excess stuff on hand.
 
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Just shoot them and don't resize that far again. I've worked up loads with virgin brass that was .006" short compared to fired and it works just fine. I even shot an ELR match with that virgin .006" short brass and did fairly well. You may need to tweak it slightly the next go round although I've never really had to do that.

I've fireformed quite a few wildcats with COW, titewad and a little tissue stuffed in the neck. It heats up a barrel real fast, makes a mess and doesn't do much for your case when you can just shoot them.

Thanks for that advice I’m going to go this route. This is why I posted on this site vs others I’m on.
I’ve invested in gauges, better calipers and a ball mic recently. I also upgraded my dies to bushing style . Had I not I would have never known I bumped them to far. I’m in a learning curve so better to ask then assume.
 
Well ... never suspected fire-forming as a use for Crisco and Cream of Wheat ... learn something new every day. Although I think I'd just use a light powder load and bullets from excess stuff on hand.

I don’t blame you for being skeptical.
It’s good to know it can be done that way, but it doesn’t sound like a good way except in limited circumstances.
 
Thanks for that advice I’m going to go this route. This is why I posted on this site vs others I’m on.
I’ve invested in gauges, better calipers and a ball mic recently. I also upgraded my dies to bushing style . Had I not I would have never known I bumped them to far. I’m in a learning curve so better to ask then assume.
In the last four years, this forum has been 90% mega-helpful on my own reloading journey, and 10% maddeningly-aggravating. It's a great place for advice on ballistics, reloading, etc. ... and a terrible place to learn how to behave appropriately around other human beings. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Personally I'd just shoot it as normal or new brass. I've heard mixed results on COW method, I just don't think it's worth the effort.
 
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In the last four years, this forum has been 90% mega-helpful on my own reloading journey, and 10% maddeningly-aggravating. It's a great place for advice on ballistics, reloading, etc. ... and a terrible place to learn how to behave appropriately around other human beings. :ROFLMAO:
Ah have you spent time on ar15.com
I’ve been there 17 years.
People here can be assholes but often they may still know why they are talking about.
The last few years over there have been a dumpster fire and I’ll just leave it at that.
 
Wait, what, ... and then you shoot that stuff into your barrel via a primer shot? I just don't see how creating a mess of your barrel is easier than just using extra or mismatched supplies to fire a round. I still don't get it. But it's probably just me ...
Depends on what you are trying to fire form. I.E what kind of brass you are trying to make from another. For making an a standard case to an AI case, I would just shoot it. Unless maybe I didn't want to use a bunch of barrel life forming brass. A guy with a 243 or 22-243 AI who wants 300 or 400 pieces of brass might not want to loose that much barrel forming brass. Crisco and cream of wheat are easier to clean out than copper and carbon.
 
You will be fine just shooting them like normal . I bet you will see zero issues . You can check for case head separation, etc . after firing to make sure everything is ok .
 
Just fire them with a lower charge weight. Also, check out the video on sizing brass. Do this and get the measurement then you can just bump to that measurement. When setting up dies, I have seen the instructions are not always perfect for every press, so always back off a little, I go at least a half turn out then start sizing and measuring until I see a minimal bump on the gauge.


Edit to add - I see lots of folks fire forming at matches for 6mm variants that require fire forming. They just load and shoot. They actually do pretty good doing that too lol.
 
Most factory ammo is usually WAY more than 6/1000ths off the lands, and it shoots just fine. This isn't about safety or anything like that ... it's about preservation of resources (powder, bullets, barrel, etc.). I actually shoot my new brass with the standard load I use for fired brass, and it usually shoots really well. We have a "fun match" here at my local range the first of every month. I usually shoot that 100 or so rounds with new brass to get it fire-formed and start dialing it in. The last time I did that with brand new 300-PRC Lapua brass, I got SD's of 8.0-ish, and hit the 1,500 yard target (several times). Using new brass to (a) fire-form, and (b) shoot real bullets for real purposes ... isn't necessarily a negative. YMMV ... to each his own ... past performance is not an indicator of future results ... a rolling stone gathers no moss ... (blah blah blah)
 
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Most factory ammo is usually WAY more than 6/1000ths off the lands, and it shoots just fine. This isn't about safety or anything like that ... it's about preservation of resources (powder, bullets, barrel, etc.). I actually shoot my new brass with the standard load I use for fired brass, and it usually shoots really well. We have a "fun match" here at my local range the first of every month. I usually shoot that 100 or so rounds with new brass to get it fire-formed and start dialing it in. The last time I did that with brand new 300-PRC Lapua brass, I got SD's of 8.0-ish, and hit the 1,500 yard target (several times). Using new brass to (a) fire-form, and (b) shoot real bullets for real purposes ... isn't necessarily a negative. YMMV ... to each his own ... past performance is not an indicator of future results ... a rolling stone gathers no moss ... (blah blah blah)

" Most factory ammo is usually WAY more than 6/1000ths off the lands. "...

Bullet jump has nothing to do with shoulder bump .
 
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Once again I appreciate all the input you guys gave.I was just overthinking things too much.

My hunting rifle shoots great with the 143 eldx ans 41.2 h4350 I’m just going to load them up for that rifle.
 
Run them through a 308 die and the shoulder will pop forward enough to make you happy.
 
Thanks for that advice I’m going to go this route. This is why I posted on this site vs others I’m on.
I’ve invested in gauges, better calipers and a ball mic recently. I also upgraded my dies to bushing style . Had I not I would have never known I bumped them to far. I’m in a learning curve so better to ask then assume.
For those kinds of problems, I use a Sheridan slotted gauge so I can see what is really causing the problem. No, I don't work for Sheridan, but I do have several of their gauges and lower blood pressure than before I got them!