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Help on 300WM load / OCW

Stpilot12

Killed a guy with a Trident...
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 18, 2012
438
176
Northern Crappyfornia
Hello all. First post, looong time lurker… I love this site, found tons of good info. I’ve been shooting/loading for at least 30yrs (yes, started young with my dad) Former SWAT LEO with lots of time behind 223/308 precison rifles.. I think I have a fairly decent trigger finger.. (although my eyes are starting to suck!!) I’ve recently loaded some really good 223 ammo (mostly 53gr vmax for varmints) that shoots ½ to ¾ MOA outta 2 rifles. However, most of my loading over the years has been for handgun/target loads. This is my first jump into “big” reloading for precision. My goal is find some good loads for 1000yd shooting, mostly just for fun… Maybe some big game later (not 1000yd)


I need some help with this ocw. I’m a bit perplexed with my results here. I’ll throw all the data out here and you guys please tell me what I’m missing..

R700P 26”bbl w/brake and Jewel Trigger
300WM
208 AMAX
H1000
Win Brass
Fed 215M
RCBS FL Dies
COAL 3.615 (2.885 Ogive, .030 jump)
I used Hornady OAL gauge for this number….

Brass is once fired in this rifle, sorted by length and weight as close as possible. Primer pockets and flash holes cleaned/uniformed and case mouth de-burred. Sized to .002 bump.
AMAX bullets sorted by weight and bearing surface length. Used only 208.0gr and +/- .002 length for this test.

Powder charge: Guessing where to start?!?!? Using info from the Berger manual, Hodgdon’s site and this site I decided to start at 75.0 with a theoretical max of 77.1 based on .3 increments. Hodgdon says 78.0 max, but reading threads on this site I noticed some guys talking about pressure signs by 77gr and I’m not a hero!!
Loaded 3 at 75.0gr for sighters… then 3 rounds of each
75.3 target #1
75.6 target #2
75.9 target #3
76.2 target #4
76.5 Target #5
76.8
77.1
In the pictures hopefully you can see the target # and charge written in the corners. Target #5 is all 3 rounds. Round 1 and 3 are in damn near the same hole. I had to look at the back of the wood to see it.
76.5gr started showing slightly flat primers. I only fired one round of 76.8gr, REAL flat primer and showing the half moon ring on the head so I didn’t continue with those or higher. I didn’t use a chronograph today, just looking for my accuracy node first. I probably forgot to include something here… so I may or may not know the answer if asked. One thing I realized AFTER I had these rounds loaded… Neck tension. Something I’m not sure I understand how to control. I checked my loaded cases vs empty already sized cases and found this: Neck OD, Sized cases=.325avg. Loaded rounds .334avg. .009” ?? Seems like a lot to me? Thoughts?? ANY help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Tim
 

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you may want to try a spread with adjusting only jump. I found better groups at .020. I used to get odd groups like yours till I played with jump. I use all the same components as you but 74gr yields 2900fps.
 
.334 is what I measure with the 208 a max and Win brass also. Get a bushing die and a .332 bushing to control neck tension. I use Redding type s.
 
Hard to tell, but it looks like 75.3grs is your scatter node. So per the rules of Dan Newberry, you should find a node 1.5% higher (76.4grs) in your charge. Looks like your getting the dreaded 2 and 1 deal. Could be seating depth?? You could pick 76.2 grs and try a seating depth test using .003" to .005" increments. Find the best, and revisit the ocw test working from 75.8 to 76.8. or so. Use a chorny to record ES/SD.
 
Thank guys! Good info. Ordered the Redding S die. Im gonna try tinkering with the jump, then do another ocw as suggested.
 
were your groups shot off a bench or prone or rest? don't want to sound like a dick but if ur not running the proper fundamentals of marksmanship and 300 winmag WILL EXPLOIT any angles u give it and cause shot to shot variation. that can be very frustrating when trying to develop a load. I am using basically all the same components as u are in my win mag only even more simplified powder grads (.5) and found a one hole shooting load WITHOUT playing with seating depth or neck tension... Cronod the load yesterday with the V3 magneto speed with ES of 11fps and SD of 4fps this was with new brass and very minimal prep (mouth expansion and chamfer)
 
were your groups shot off a bench or prone or rest? don't want to sound like a dick but if ur not running the proper fundamentals of marksmanship and 300 winmag WILL EXPLOIT any angles u give it and cause shot to shot variation. that can be very frustrating when trying to develop a load. I am using basically all the same components as u are in my win mag only even more simplified powder grads (.5) and found a one hole shooting load WITHOUT playing with seating depth or neck tension... Cronod the load yesterday with the V3 magneto speed with ES of 11fps and SD of 4fps this was with new brass and very minimal prep (mouth expansion and chamfer)

care to post your load info?
 
were your groups shot off a bench or prone or rest? don't want to sound like a dick but if ur not running the proper fundamentals of marksmanship and 300 winmag WILL EXPLOIT any angles u give it and cause shot to shot variation. that can be very frustrating when trying to develop a load. I am using basically all the same components as u are in my win mag only even more simplified powder grads (.5) and found a one hole shooting load WITHOUT playing with seating depth or neck tension... Cronod the load yesterday with the V3 magneto speed with ES of 11fps and SD of 4fps this was with new brass and very minimal prep (mouth expansion and chamfer)

Valid question. I shot these prone, sand bag front, my bean bag rear. I shoot this way 95% of the time. I have a good table, but I was trained mostly prone, prefer it. This rifle will shoot .4-.5 moa with with Hornady TAP 178 AMAX (only decent factory ammo I could find available so far) I know what you mean about the 300. I shot 23rds one day before I put the brake on it. Holy %$#… the bruises were impressive. Also, I have my jewel trigger set at 10oz (for load testing only) I've tried to minimize as many variables as possible. Pretty confident with these groups being more load than shooter.
 
26" shilen select match, .337" neck, 1/10 twist, Savage 110 action
New Nosler brass: neck expanded with sinclair mandrel, neck turned (only to fit in tight necked chamber), inside VLD chamfer... no sorting, no annealing
Fed 215m, 69 grains RELODER 22, 208 AMAX seated -.020" from lands

Shots recorded were from V3 magnetospeed at roughly 4400' ASL
1-2911fps MAX:2920
2-2920 MIN:2909
3-2915 AVG:2913
4-2909 ES:11 SD:4.5

would have a 5th shot but bayo was not connected
 
also tested 3 fire formed cases with the same powder charge, results were the same POI and group sizes as the new brass... The shoulder of the fire formed brass measured +.025" compared to the new brass. This is what i did to the fire formed brass:

FL resized w/standard RCBS die bumping shoulder -.001"
Ran up into LARRY WILLIS Collet die (not necessary, but controls bulge above the belt to get longer case life)
clean primer pockets
VLD chamfer inside mouths
 
thats odd you got great groups out of 178's but are missing on 208's? alot of good info above, have you ever got a velocity? how are your primers, any chance your losing some pressure out the back side? i know some of the mod1 ammo has some over pressure going on but standard 300wm should not be that hot.
 
230 Berger OTM
73.5gr H1000
Federal 215M
Jump it about 0.005"
Win brass (I forget which bushing I use)

If Norma brass, 73.0 gr H1000, use .335 bushing.

2775 fps from 26"

I think you'd be surprised how many people arrive at the same place.
 
Tim:

What twist is your barrel?

If it is a 9-twist, consider heavier bullets. See attached.

Winchester military brass. Clean primer pocket. Debur flash hole. Size with Redding die, .332 neck, about 0.001-2 gap from shoulder to chamber. Trim to 2.612. All of these cases weighed between 240.0 and 240.9 gr. Sierra 240 HPBT Match, seated 0.018 off the lands. IMR 7828, 67.7 gr - thrown on a RCBS chargemaster. FED 215M. MV ~ 2675. Scope setting 28 MOA up, 1 MOA right. No conditions - 83 F light boil, shot 1 was cold bore, 3 went a little right. A little over 1,000 rounds through the barrel. The gun shoots 1 MOA if I do my part, probably better with a more-skilled shooter. It shoots 0.4 to 0.6 MOA most of the time at 100 or 200.

Note: even blind squirrels find acorns. Most of my targets at 1k don't look this good - this one is worth sharing :)

Long heavy bullets have low drag. That bullet goes subsonic just over 1,400 yards. Slower velocity means longer flight times so I have to read the wind well or get lucky and have zero conditions. I also have a box of rounds where the cases weigh 234.0 to 234.9. Those are loaded with 68.0 grains of IMR 7828. This Win milsup is the best brass I have ever shot and I also shoot Winchester, Lapua, and RWS.

Bax
 

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thats odd you got great groups out of 178's but are missing on 208's? alot of good info above, have you ever got a velocity? how are your primers, any chance your losing some pressure out the back side? i know some of the mod1 ammo has some over pressure going on but standard 300wm should not be that hot.

No velocities yet. Primers were a little flat at the 76.5 load, ok prior. The next batch I'll set up the Chrono, hopefully this weekend.
 
Tim:

What twist is your barrel?

If it is a 9-twist, consider heavier bullets. See attached.

Winchester military brass. Clean primer pocket. Debur flash hole. Size with Redding die, .332 neck, about 0.001-2 gap from shoulder to chamber. Trim to 2.612. All of these cases weighed between 240.0 and 240.9 gr. Sierra 240 HPBT Match, seated 0.018 off the lands. IMR 7828, 67.7 gr - thrown on a RCBS chargemaster. FED 215M. MV ~ 2675. Scope setting 28 MOA up, 1 MOA right. No conditions - 83 F light boil, shot 1 was cold bore, 3 went a little right. A little over 1,000 rounds through the barrel. The gun shoots 1 MOA if I do my part, probably better with a more-skilled shooter. It shoots 0.4 to 0.6 MOA most of the time at 100 or 200.

Note: even blind squirrels find acorns. Most of my targets at 1k don't look this good - this one is worth sharing :)

Long heavy bullets have low drag. That bullet goes subsonic just over 1,400 yards. Slower velocity means longer flight times so I have to read the wind well or get lucky and have zero conditions. I also have a box of rounds where the cases weigh 234.0 to 234.9. Those are loaded with 68.0 grains of IMR 7828. This Win milsup is the best brass I have ever shot and I also shoot Winchester, Lapua, and RWS.

Bax

It's a 1-10 twist. I do have 2 boxes of 220 SMK's I'd like to try next.
 
No velocities yet. Primers were a little flat at the 76.5 load, ok prior. The next batch I'll set up the Chrono, hopefully this weekend.
Using 76.5 grains H1000 out of Norma brass with the 208 amax seated .010 off my MV was 2830. No pressure signs on mine though
 
230 Berger OTM
73.5gr H1000
Federal 215M
Jump it about 0.005"
Win brass (I forget which bushing I use)

If Norma brass, 73.0 gr H1000, use .335 bushing.

2775 fps from 26"

I think you'd be surprised how many people arrive at the same place.

What's your OAL for this load?
 
Had a 700 P in .300 win mag and it was the most accurate rifle I ever had that was factory. Would shoot 1/2 moa to 3/4 moa at 1200 yards. 2 things about mine that may give you a little help.
1) it hated h1000 and would only shoot the 208's with R22 to what I deemed acceptable accuracy.
2) get optics that will take a beating from the Win mag .... Break or not ... It still gets beat up ( concussive forces from the break)

If you have any Reloader 22, try this 72 grains. I ended up at 72.5 but if your loading long and your still 30/1000"s off your pressure should be a lot lower than if you were at sammi. I found the sweet spot about 15/000's off. Good luck
 
230 Berger OTM
73.5gr H1000
Federal 215M
Jump it about 0.005"
Win brass (I forget which bushing I use)


If Norma brass, 73.0 gr H1000, use .335 bushing.

2775 fps from 26"

I think you'd be surprised how many people arrive at the same place.


For some reason I get more case capacity from Norma ( virgin ) than I do Winchester. I have to do the opposite of what your doing. 76.3 Retumbo , 230 OTM , 3.620" (forget ogive) Norma brass , f215m, 30" Broughton 5c 1:10. I'm jumping over 90/1000's and they are shooting bug holes. Win brass is giving me op sings with this load and it's not even that hot. Running 2900 fps.
 
are those the hybrids or otm tactical?

The OTM Hybrid Tactical. The ones I have are Berger PN 30110, 50 count box. The new ones are Berger PN 30112, 100 count box. Same BC claimed as the 30110. Berger does this crap with their stock part numbers and I don't know why. Is it the same bullet? I think so, but who is to say? Maybe someone could tell us...?

In any event, Midwayusa currently has both the 230 Hybrid Target HPBT and the 230 Hybrid Tactical available and, for some reason, marked as "clearance". Does this mean they're bringing out something better (which will quickly become unobtainium)? I am sitting here wondering if Berger is going to release a 240 in .30 cal. If they do it will kick Sierra's ass.
 
For some reason I get more case capacity from Norma ( virgin ) than I do Winchester. I have to do the opposite of what your doing. 76.3 Retumbo , 230 OTM , 3.620" (forget ogive) Norma brass , f215m, 30" Broughton 5c 1:10. I'm jumping over 90/1000's and they are shooting bug holes. Win brass is giving me op sings with this load and it's not even that hot. Running 2900 fps.

Retumbo was the first powder I tried in .300WM. I had problems immediately, way below max charges. Rather than trying to figure it out I changed to H1000 and got what I wanted almost right away. Could in theory have gotten higher velocity with Retumbo but...glad it works for you!
 
Had a 700 P in .300 win mag and it was the most accurate rifle I ever had that was factory. Would shoot 1/2 moa to 3/4 moa at 1200 yards. 2 things about mine that may give you a little help.
1) it hated h1000 and would only shoot the 208's with R22 to what I deemed acceptable accuracy.
2) get optics that will take a beating from the Win mag .... Break or not ... It still gets beat up ( concussive forces from the break)

If you have any Reloader 22, try this 72 grains. I ended up at 72.5 but if your loading long and your still 30/1000"s off your pressure should be a lot lower than if you were at sammi. I found the sweet spot about 15/000's off. Good luck

Thanks for jumping in here, I've read lots of your posts and load info. I have the Leupy Mark-4 ER in the heavy rings. Hopefully it lasts a while!! I don't have have any R22, been looking. DId you ever have any luck with Retumbo in the 208/210 or even 220??
I have 3lbs of H1000 and 8lb keg of Retumbo. Hoping to find a load for that too, seems to be easier to find than H1000.
 
All you guys that have chimed in here, thank you. Lots of good info and ideas for me. My current plan is to load a handful of rds around 75.8-76.0gr and try .015-.020 jump and shoot over the chrono. My S-die should be here tomorrow, so hopefully I'll shoot friday morning. Range report to follow…
 
Thanks for jumping in here, I've read lots of your posts and load info. I have the Leupy Mark-4 ER in the heavy rings. Hopefully it lasts a while!! I don't have have any R22, been looking. DId you ever have any luck with Retumbo in the 208/210 or even 220??
I have 3lbs of H1000 and 8lb keg of Retumbo. Hoping to find a load for that too, seems to be easier to find than H1000.

I shoot Retumbo with the 230 Berger OTM and it shoots FANTASTIC!! 2900 fps with a mild load at magazine length. (3.620) I think the 220 smk would work just fine with Retumbo. I have tried it with the 208's and it shot pretty good. But I already had my dope and load with r22 so I never made the change with the 208. Retumbo though seems to be better on the heavier .30 caliber bullets with its slower burn rate. I'm pushing the 230 hybrid at 2940 with the exact same charge weight (76.3). Ismh, that I've been running the 215 bergers lately with a stiff load of h1000 and it shoots great. But it shoots equally well with 77 grains of Retumbo. H-1000 seems to give me a bit more speed though, and I've had AWESOME results out to 1330 yards. Only 10.2 mils with a 100 yard zero which is about 3025 to 3030 fps with the 215.
 
Ok guys…. here we go again. First off, UPS didn't bring me my Redding S die on time, so I pushed forth anyway. All the previous factors from the original post apply (components/bullet/brass prep) I loaded 4rds @ 76.0gr H1000 with a .020 jump and 4 rds at .015 jump. I ran out of once fired Win brass so I grabbed the next thing I had handy, Federal once fired (I know…) to load a few sighters. I loaded the sighters at 76gr and .015. Out to the range this morning at 0530, good conditions, 74deg, 2-3mph wind from directly behind me. 100yds, chrono set up @15' from muzzle, heres what I got. I numbered the shots on the pictures to help.

Group #1: Sighters, shot these together.
#1 2882fps
#2 2895
#3 2848

I made a 2 MOA adjustment left… Groups 2 and 3 I shot round robin. I didn't shoot the 4th round on target #3, figured it was a waste of time due to the velocity spreads i was seeing.

Group #2 .020 jump
#1 2914fps
#2 2907
#3 2895
#4 2912
Interesting group. Shot #3, less velocity, higher poi?? #1, #2, #4 would have been a good group with good ES.. Confused.

Group #3 .015 jump
#1 2875fps
#2 2863
#3 2943
Blah…… 80fps spread??

It appears this rifle/amax combo likes closer to .020.. I know the Redding die will be here today and Im still thinking neck tension may be suspect here. What thinkith ye wise men???

Thank you.

Edited: One thing I forgot to mention about the neck tension, I noticed while loading this batch that I could FEEL the difference in pressing some of the bullets in the seating phase… Clue?? LOL Then I thought at the range this morning… Gee, what a dumbass… I should've marked them!!!!!
 

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So it looks like .020" might be a good spot to start with. Who knows what caused the higher shot in target 2, neck tension, runout, could be shifting in or out of a node, etc. So what brass do you plan to test with next? New, once , or 2x fired Winchester brass on next test?
 
So it looks like .020" might be a good spot to start with. Who knows what caused the higher shot in target 2, neck tension, runout, could be shifting in or out of a node, etc. So what brass do you plan to test with next? New, once , or 2x fired Winchester brass on next test?
Not sure.. I have 100 new Win and 50 new Rem.. And obviously the now twice fired win. This is the first time I've really dealt with the brass situation, as far as really trying to find extreme accuracy / consistency. What's your thought on new brass? I always heard that better results come from fire formed cases… Myth? wives tale?? LOL
 
Might as well use the new Winchester brass. I found really no difference, and the whole point behind the an OCW load.

Sounds like a good plan to me. I'm willing to try damn near anything at this point. Redding die in hand now also. Here comes round 3! Thanks for the help
 
What's planned for round 3?

I'm not even entirely sure yet. New brass, new die, .020 jump…. Shoot the OCW again from 75.8 to 76.4 in .2 incr.?? Im already getting 2900fps at 76.0 though. Maybe 75.6 to 76.2??
I think I'll go re-read Newberry's website on OCW tonight, kinda feels like I'm over complicating this..
 
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I made a 2 MOA adjustment left… Groups 2 and 3 I shot round robin. I didn't shoot the 4th round on target #3, figured it was a waste of time due to the velocity spreads i was seeing.

Group #2 .020 jump
#1 2914fps
#2 2907
#3 2895
#4 2912
Interesting group. Shot #3, less velocity, higher poi?? #1, #2, #4 would have been a good group with good ES.. Confused.

re: shot 3 - in my opinion, the velocity change is not enough to account for an inch. Consider pulling that piece of brass. I don't remember if you are doing this -- make sure to debur the flash hole. Ignition issues caused by flash hole burrs might give you weirdness.

Group #3 .015 jump
#1 2875fps
#2 2863
#3 2943
Blah…… 80fps spread??

Edited: One thing I forgot to mention about the neck tension, I noticed while loading this batch that I could FEEL the difference in pressing some of the bullets in the seating phase… Clue?? LOL Then I thought at the range this morning… Gee, what a dumbass… I should've marked them!!!!!

two comments:
1. If the load doesn't shoot, then don't use it. But don't get too excited about velocity changes. Which bullet was the low one? If it was number 3, the fast one, then your rifle is trying to tell you that you have to do whatever it takes to make your velocities consistent.
2. Assuming good reloading equipment and technique, neck tension variation is a message that your brass is not all the same. If your brass is not consistent, you will see velocity variations, POI changes (usually vertical), and other symptoms that you don't want.

okay, three comments ...

I would pick a load, either 2 or 3 above. Load 10 cases all the same and shoot them. I suspect that some cases will shoot into the group and some cases will throw flyers. Mark the flyers. Reload the same cases the same way and shoot them again. I suspect that the first pass flyers will also be second pass flyers. If that is true then you have an issue with your brass. And if that is true, then you cannot use that complete set of brass to identify your optimum charge weight, you need to pull the flyer cases. On the other hand, if the first pass "rounds in the group" become second pass flyers then something else is happening.

Think about it. Look at group 2. Three shots in the group and 1 an inch away. Vertically away. On your range, could wind do that? If it isn't wind then it is the primer, powder, bullet, case, or technique. You used the same primer and bullet, seated to the same depth, and the same quantity of powder. That leaves the cases and technique. Shooting your cases twice should tell you which one it is.

One more unpleasant question - does your gun have a muzzle brake? All of my 30s have brakes, for me that is the only way to get consistent technique. I shoot 240 grain bullets out of my 300 Win Mag. The gun weighs about 16 pounds. Without a brake, it beats me up too much and I get patterns, not groups.
 
re: shot 3 - in my opinion, the velocity change is not enough to account for an inch. Consider pulling that piece of brass. I don't remember if you are doing this -- make sure to debur the flash hole. Ignition issues caused by flash hole burrs might give you weirdness.



two comments:
1. If the load doesn't shoot, then don't use it. But don't get too excited about velocity changes. Which bullet was the low one? If it was number 3, the fast one, then your rifle is trying to tell you that you have to do whatever it takes to make your velocities consistent.
2. Assuming good reloading equipment and technique, neck tension variation is a message that your brass is not all the same. If your brass is not consistent, you will see velocity variations, POI changes (usually vertical), and other symptoms that you don't want.

okay, three comments ...

I would pick a load, either 2 or 3 above. Load 10 cases all the same and shoot them. I suspect that some cases will shoot into the group and some cases will throw flyers. Mark the flyers. Reload the same cases the same way and shoot them again. I suspect that the first pass flyers will also be second pass flyers. If that is true then you have an issue with your brass. And if that is true, then you cannot use that complete set of brass to identify your optimum charge weight, you need to pull the flyer cases. On the other hand, if the first pass "rounds in the group" become second pass flyers then something else is happening.

Think about it. Look at group 2. Three shots in the group and 1 an inch away. Vertically away. On your range, could wind do that? If it isn't wind then it is the primer, powder, bullet, case, or technique. You used the same primer and bullet, seated to the same depth, and the same quantity of powder. That leaves the cases and technique. Shooting your cases twice should tell you which one it is.

One more unpleasant question - does your gun have a muzzle brake? All of my 30s have brakes, for me that is the only way to get consistent technique. I shoot 240 grain bullets out of my 300 Win Mag. The gun weighs about 16 pounds. Without a brake, it beats me up too much and I get patterns, not groups.

Thank you for the comments on this. I am de-burring flash holes. The day that I shot these groups the wind was very light, doubt it was a factor. I do have a muzzle brake, it really made it easy to shoot (i tried it before the brake, ouch!!)
Since this the day I shot these groups, Ive been out 2 more times with the AMAX/H1000 combo, with dismal results. The only change made was to switch to new Win brass and sized with Redding S Die. Prepped the same, weighed and sorted to <2gr, primer pockets unformed, flash holes de-burred, case mouths de-burred with VLD tool. The groups look the same. Lots of the 2/1's, velocities all over the place. Just for the hell of it, I loaded 9 rds of Berger 210 VLD's at 76.0gr H1000, same brass, @.010, .015 and .020. Most encouraging groups Ive seen yet, However, my "High Tech" Chrony decided to go "TU" so I don't have any speeds yet. My next step is to play with seating depth and fine tune it. (I hope) as well as get a new Chrono.

Pix of the Berger VLD Groups

Thank you
 

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don't waste your money on a shooting chrony (or any of the other ir types) save up for a magneto speed.
have all the amax you tried been from the same lot? there has been a couple instances with bad lots.
i haven't seen a 300wm that wouldn't shoot a 208 and 76 gr of h1000,not saying yours will but i've seen a lot of them like that load.
also try some 210m primers, i was on the 215m band wagon also, until i tried them, the sd did drop, i will NOT use the 210's with rl22 i had to hang fires in 10 rounds
but no problem with the h1000. keep us posted.
 
don't waste your money on a shooting chrony (or any of the other ir types) save up for a magneto speed.
have all the amax you tried been from the same lot? there has been a couple instances with bad lots.
i haven't seen a 300wm that wouldn't shoot a 208 and 76 gr of h1000,not saying yours will but i've seen a lot of them like that load.
also try some 210m primers, i was on the 215m band wagon also, until i tried them, the sd did drop, i will NOT use the 210's with rl22 i had to hang fires in 10 rounds
but no problem with the h1000. keep us posted.

Thanks guys! Researching the Magneto.. The AMAX's were from 2 lots and 3 boxes. I sorted 300 bullets to find 50 or so that were within +/- .1 grain and .002 bearing surface length, just to minimize some of the variables. I have some CCI BR-2s I'm gonna try also.
 
I jump them .020 as well, I decided on that after a lot of testing.


you may want to try a spread with adjusting only jump. I found better groups at .020. I used to get odd groups like yours till I played with jump. I use all the same components as you but 74gr yields 2900fps.
 
Thanks for jumping in here, I've read lots of your posts and load info. I have the Leupy Mark-4 ER in the heavy rings. Hopefully it lasts a while!! I don't have have any R22, been looking. DId you ever have any luck with Retumbo in the 208/210 or even 220??
I have 3lbs of H1000 and 8lb keg of Retumbo. Hoping to find a load for that too, seems to be easier to find than H1000.

OP, I was just looking at my notes from April 2012 for my 700 P. I thought I might still have that Retumbo load. Here's what I got.

"April 9 , 2012. .300 win mag. 700 P. 81.5 retumbo. 208 amax. Win brass. 215m. 3.600. 1/3 Moa at 104 yards. 3 shots. Cloverleaf Too hot need to drop it a few grains. "
I am sure it was hauling butt, but if I remember correct, I got a little bit of a sticky bolt. So, it shot great but if I wrote it was too hot, trust me , it was TOO HOT! Hope this helps.
 
Thanks guys. I've pretty much given up on the amax, at least for now. I burned thru a can of h1000 without much to show for it. However, I'm having much better luck with 210 VLDs. Finally getting consistent sub MOA groups going pretty close to 2865 avg with 76.0 H1000.
Got them out to 350 and 557yds this morning. So far, per shooter, my dope is right on for poi. Which was shocking due to my crappy chrony giving me random efd'up readings like 7630fps. Lol
Thanks to all that helped on this project, I'm gonna tackle 220 SMK's and Retumbo next. I'm now up to 11lbs of Retumbo, so I'm gonna have some fun!
 
Thanks guys. I've pretty much given up on the amax, at least for now. I burned thru a can of h1000 without much to show for it. However, I'm having much better luck with 210 VLDs. Finally getting consistent sub MOA groups going pretty close to 2865 avg with 76.0 H1000.
Got them out to 350 and 557yds this morning. So far, per shooter, my dope is right on for poi. Which was shocking due to my crappy chrony giving me random efd'up readings like 7630fps. Lol
Thanks to all that helped on this project, I'm gonna tackle 220 SMK's and Retumbo next. I'm now up to 11lbs of Retumbo, so I'm gonna have some fun!

Midway has the 230 bergers on sale for 44$ a box right now ! Retumbo works so good in mine with the 230 I bought 16#'s
 
run the numbers on the 220smk, if you don't already have them go with a 215 or 230 berger hybrids.
the 220's are to costly for the performance, and the bc is not to impressive for the weight your trying to move.
the only 220 i would consider would be the lapua scenar.
 
I already have 2 boxes of SMK's. However, I ordered 3 boxes of the Berger 230's from MW.. So the SMK's will goto the back burner, Bergers and Retumbo up first. You're right, the numbers are impressive. Thanks for all the info guys. I also found some RE22, so I may revisit the 208 amax down the road... Since I have 500 :-/
 
I already have 2 boxes of SMK's. However, I ordered 3 boxes of the Berger 230's from MW.. So the SMK's will goto the back burner, Bergers and Retumbo up first. You're right, the numbers are impressive. Thanks for all the info guys. I also found some RE22, so I may revisit the 208 amax down the road... Since I have 500 :-/

I'm assuming you got the hybrids. They are LONG. I mean LONNGGG!! 1.670". And regardless of how Berger markets them, they are jump picky. Atleast in every I've loaded them for and got shooting, they ALL liked to be snugged up to the lands if not touching. So what you've got is more room for powder to achieve more mv at safe pressures, but you need to remember that pressure spikes big time when your jamming. I'm shooting a 30" bbl so what works for me might not work for you. But my BEST node is at 76.3 grains of Retumbo touching the lands.
 
I'm assuming you got the hybrids. They are LONG. I mean LONNGGG!! 1.670". And regardless of how Berger markets them, they are jump picky. Atleast in every I've loaded them for and got shooting, they ALL liked to be snugged up to the lands if not touching. So what you've got is more room for powder to achieve more mv at safe pressures, but you need to remember that pressure spikes big time when your jamming. I'm shooting a 30" bbl so what works for me might not work for you. But my BEST node is at 76.3 grains of Retumbo touching the lands.

Yeah, roger that.. I was planning on starting out by seating about .005 and working up from the bottom with another OCW.