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Rifle Scopes Help setting up my Minox ZP5 please.

cuz

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Minuteman
Jul 6, 2017
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Hello,
I have a 3rd Gen Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor with a 20 moa rail.

I have a Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-DELTA Mount (0 moa cant on the mount).

I zeroed the scope at 100 yards, and after I adjusted the turrets to be set at zero, I can only rotate the turret to 17 mrad which is just barely over one full rotation. I expected to be able to rotate the turret to the full 28 mrad. Is something wrong? I thought I would have more rotation available. Not that I need it, but it’s just what I thought.

Since the 0 moa Mount I’m using is borrowed, when I purchase one should I get one that has 20 moa built in?

Thanks,
Cuz
 
That scope is known to have a very stiff adjustment past the 2nd rev indicator.
 
Nope that’s about right. You definitely want at least a 20moa base. I always use 30moa when possible.
 
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You’ll need a 40+moa mount to get 28mils of adjustment, assuming your barrel is straight and your chamber concentric.
 
28/2 = 14mil mechanical center. 14 + ~5.8 (20moa) = 19.8 mil in a perfect world.

So, 17 isn’t bad.

With another 20moa, you’d have between 22-23mil (ish) of usable elevation.
 
Unless you’re going to need more than 17mil, you’ll be fine and you stay away from the mechanical extremes.
 
16.5 takes my 6mm to 1500 yds. Get the 20 moa base if it makes you feel better, but it sounds like with that scope combo you don’t need it. If you go too steep (40) you may bottom out and have to zero beyond a hundred yards ELR style. It SHOULD do it with a few mils left, but I’d make no claims and don’t know the scope.

That said, I totally get you bought a scope that advertised two revs with an indicator, and when it only goes one it’s a WTF moment. It’s set up that way so it will fit the widest variety of applications. I have also heard/read that many scopes function best mid range rather than at the extremes of their erector tube (what you are adjusting with the turret). That makes sense bottoming it out isn’t good for it, but I’m not an engineer.
 
I expected to be able to rotate the turret to the full 28 mrad.
The quoted full travel is from stop to stop. Most precision instruments work best when operated away from the extremes of their adjustment mechanism.

Your setup seems just fine the way it is. Have you shot this thing at any considerable distance yet? And if you did, did you run out of elevation? If you didn't run out, leave it alone. If you did run out of elevation, put another 10 MOA of cant on your base system. I can't imagine why you would need more.
 
Thanks everyone. From what I'm reading, this is a normal thing, so I feel better now. I also admit that I don't "need" any more cant on the mount because my current range only goes to 600 yards, and the current scope mount with 0 moa and an available 17 mrad of travel would technically get me out to over 1,300 yards before running out of elevation. So, no problem there. So, my question now is that since the 0 moa mount I'm using is borrowed and I need to buy one anyway, should I get a 0 moa mount, or consider a 10 or 20 moa mount "just in case"???

Thanks.
 
I think you're the only one who can answer that. If I were you I'd probably go with the extra 10moa but if your regularaly shooting at 600 yards which is somewhere around 3 mils then youd be sitting right at 14 Mils left, this would put you fairly close to mechanical zero and give you the best clarity out of your scope. If you shoot further on a regular basis then I'd probably consider more elevation.
 
Get a 20 moa mount. It will give you an additional 5 mils of adjustment. It will put your zero away from the bottom of the scope tube. You’ll like the way the image looks better. You’ll still have 23 mils od adjustment.
 
Ok, please help with (or verify) my math, and whether or not the ZP5 has 28 mrad of travel from top to bottom...

With my current setup and my scope zeroed at 100 yards, I have 17 mrad of available elevation. Assuming the scope has 28 mrad of total up/down travel, then at zero, I'm sitting at 11 mrad which is just below the midpoint. Shooting from zero to 800 yards has me dialing up as much as 6 mrads. So, if I'm correct, I'll be spending 99% of my shooting within +/- 3 mrad of the midpoint, which is just about perfect.

Is that right? Or am I totally missing the boat here???

Thanks.
 
It has more than 28 total. The turrets limit it to 28 but the tube has more. You’re prolly in the middle of the travel, not just below.
 
It has more than 28 total. The turrets limit it to 28 but the tube has more. You’re prolly in the middle of the travel, not just below.

This made me curious to check mine. I +/- 34 mils total in mine from top to bottom.
 
This made me curious to check mine. I +/- 34 mils total in mine from top to bottom.
Dude how many different scopes do you have? I feel like every other thread I read you posting about your opinion based on the scope you own. Did you just buy one of everything to be the official SH go-to?;)
 
I play musical chairs with optics and rifles until I can’t find something I don’t like (within reason). ?

Currently sitting on two impact builds, vudoo, a Minox Zp5, and Schmidt 5-25 LRR reticle.

Gear that has fallen by the wayside for one reason or another (doesn’t mean I didn’t think they were quality items)

Couple TL3 setups
Deviant build
Too many surgeons to count
4 atacrs (including a 7-35)
2 amg optics
Several mpa chassis
I’m sure I’m forgetting some things

On the way currently:

Vudoo with 22” bartlein mtu
Leupold Mark 5 5-25 with CCH reticle


Important note: I’m single with no kids ?
 
I only have 13.8 mils available once mounted on mine. I have a 20 moa base with a Spuhr mount (4002). I do have mine mounted rather high though compared to some which probably accounts for some of my lost adjustment.
 
I only have 13.8 mils available once mounted on mine. I have a 20 moa base with a Spuhr mount (4002). I do have mine mounted rather high though compared to some which probably accounts for some of my lost adjustment.

Dumb question, are you sure it’s not just tight going to the second turn? Until you get used to it, it feels like it’s stopping.
 
Yep. Before I sighted it in, I tested the turret out and felt slight resistance around 14.5 mils and it kept turning. I had to adjust elevation after sighting and reset the turret zero stop and ended up where I am now.
 
This made me curious to check mine. I +/- 34 mils total in mine from top to bottom.

Thanks, that’s good to know. So at zero, I’m right in the middle, since I have 17 mil of available elevation. I think I’ll continue to experiment with the one I have for a while longer. I need more time behind it to know how I like the 1.5” height for the scope. It appears that I can get a slightly lower mount if I wanted. Not sure if it will be too low then.
 
I only have 13.8 mils available once mounted on mine. I have a 20 moa base with a Spuhr mount (4002). I do have mine mounted rather high though compared to some which probably accounts for some of my lost adjustment.

Why do you say it’s mounted high? That’s a 1.5” mount, Isn’t that the standard mount height?
 
Thinking this thread might solve our issues now that I have read some more about it. Not quite sure I am understanding the resolution, but others have had the same problem evidently.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/how-much-adjustment-is-normal-to-zero-fixed.6287527/

Short story is the second rev indicator and such is in the turret cap. So when you float your turrets back to zero, you need to make sure you turn them down to the actual zero and you’re not using the second turn of the turret.
 
Look at the windows in your turn indicator. If they are still white when you are on “zero” that means you didn’t turn the turrets past the second rev all the way back down.
 
Though, if that’s the issue, you should be able to keep turning down way past the zero.
 
And as soon as I can get my hands on the new TT.
That was quite the list.

I think the new TT is going to be the first scope with truly no compromises in any area. Going to be hard for folks to justify anything else in the $3k+ range now that TT has such a great reticle option. Of course not everyone will love it, but I feel it will be considerably more popular than the gen 2.
 
I want to make sure I am not hijacking the thread. I don't mind starting a seperate one if I am derailing the conversation.

That being said, according to the indicator, I am still in my first revolution but maxed out at 13.9 mils. I took the elevation cap off to see if I could make any adjustments and not seeing how I can do anything further to gain more elevation in the erector...

Either I am maxed or... I just am not visualizing a fix from the details already covered.


20180916_001457.jpg



20180916_001510.jpg
 
Doesn’t appear that you are on the second turn. When you dial below zero, do you hit the zero stop, or can you keep going?

Also, is the rail mounted in the right direction?

I had something like 17 mils left when I mounted it on a .22 for testing with a 20moa rail and 0 moa rings. So you should have as much or more on a centerfire.
 
There is a part in the instruction booklet that talks about what I think your problem is. tjere is a small piece of metal that you can see if you take your turret cap off. It is shaped almost like a half moon. If that is not lined up correctly it will stop you from going to your second rev. Take your turret off and make sure that is aligned properly.
 
I'll check it again as well as the Spuhr mount orientation.
 
The Spuhr mount is on correctly (bubble level in the rear). I was able to flip the internal switch (noted in the manual) in the opposite direction after taking the elevation cap off. Once I did that, I was able to gain almost an extra mil (now 14.7 mils) and the 2nd rotation indicator started to come into view.

I may have to do a video showing what's happening so I am not confusing others.
 
The Spuhr is zero cant though right?

Is the actual rail on the rifle in the right direction?
 
Yeah, it's a Badger Ordinance 20 MOA rail mount. There's really only one way it can go on with the forward stop in place so I think it's correct too.

Something tells me there's going to be a funny story involved when I finally figure this out...
 
You are not hijacking this thread, it sounds like we are discussing the exact same thing.

We both have a 20 moa rail with a 0 moa Mount. Both mounts have a 1.5” height from rail to center of scope, and after zeroing we both have “about” one full rotation of elevation. I’m starting to understand that nothing is wrong, it’s just the way it is. If we want more mild of elevation we need to switch to a mount with 10-40 moa of additional cant.
 
MWINTER501 had a previous thread on this topic - "I hadn't realized that I put the elevation cap on the '0' in the second rev until much later. I just took the advice of a few folks here and moved it down to the '0' on the first rev and that seemed to fix the problem. I now have 22mil of adjustment instead of 13.7. I guess it was a problem with the amount of adjustment the knob itself had and not the erector (as Snarkscarbine stated). I didn't originally understand what he was saying until I did it and it now makes sense."

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/how-much-adjustment-is-normal-to-zero-fixed.6287527/
 
MWINTER501 had a previous thread on this topic - "I hadn't realized that I put the elevation cap on the '0' in the second rev until much later. I just took the advice of a few folks here and moved it down to the '0' on the first rev and that seemed to fix the problem. I now have 22mil of adjustment instead of 13.7. I guess it was a problem with the amount of adjustment the knob itself had and not the erector (as Snarkscarbine stated). I didn't originally understand what he was saying until I did it and it now makes sense."

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/how-much-adjustment-is-normal-to-zero-fixed.6287527/

I believe he’s already been over that possibility.
 
My minox should be here tomorrow so I was just running through all the related threads!

Cheers! ?

Nice, I’ve only had mine out to the range a few times but absolutely love it. All of my questions and inquiries pretty much revolve around the fact that I don’t really understand what I’m doing and am spending too much time on the internet instead of at the range...
 
I’m pretty excited to get it. First really nice glass I have ever bought; stepping up from my NF NXS scopes.

Yep range time matters for technical proficiency (and my mental well being - zen time without excel spreadsheets) and I’m trying to make time to do more of it. You know the drill when you have clients who need shit done before they even sent it to you.
 
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I believe I found my issue... Shaking my head from this but... I purchased a Badger Rail off of eBay that was supposed to be a 20 MOA base. The packaging has it listed as a 1005-306-06, 20 MOA Rail...

Out of curiosity, I took the scope off the rifle and looked at the model number on the rail itself. It shows 1005-306-06F on the rail which is their 0 MOA rail...

Got to love honesty when dealing with others. There's my missing 6 mils...
 
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I believe I found my issue... Shaking my head from this but... I purchased a Badger Rail off of eBay that was supposed to be a 20 MOA base. The packaging has it listed as a 1005-306-06, 20 MOA Rail...

Out of curiosity, I took the scope off the rifle and looked at the model number on the rail itself. It shows 1005-306-06F on the rail which is their 0 MOA rail...

Got to love honesty when dealing with others. There's my missing 6 mils...

At least it wasn’t on backwards ?
 
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When I opened my box, the elevation knob was already on the upper rev as the white windows were filled in. No biggie but it sure would have thrown me off if I hadn’t read this post and the instructions because that mid stop is significant and one wouldn’t realize you have to double the force to go through that stiffer band of 20 clicks as that cam turns over.