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Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

mouse07410

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 5, 2010
1,265
2
MA, USA
My sad story in short. At the range, had my scoped Ruger 10/22 on the tripod on the bench. Stepped aside for a moment to pick something up - wind gust threw the rifle off the tripod, off the bench and down 3 feet on the concrete.

As a result - screws that were holding scope base (EGW 20MOA) to the receiver, ripped the threading off the receiver holes. As far as I can tell, the screws themselves are fine, the rifle looks fine, the scope (Centerpoint) looks fine. But naturally, I can't fasten the EGW (nor the original Ruger 0MOA) base to the receiver as the holes are stripped.

How can I remedy this? I imagine the holes need to be re-tapped - but to what diameter, and what screws can I then use to fasten EGW base back to the receiver?

Help please!!

Pictures:
Ruger_receiver_broke.jpg

Centerpoint_scope_base.jpg
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

I think the most common size is to tap the holes to 8-32 and be done with it. There are a number of
fixes but moving to the next larger common size screw is the easiest(it was for me). All you need is
the tap and 4 repalcement screws from the local hardware store.


cool.gif
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

take a look at this thread....


http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1886319#Post1886319

you need 8/40 its a fine thread. taps wont be available locally most likely. you will have to get the EGW base holes not only opened up, but beveled so the heads of the screws will center the base as they tighten. might be best to just upgrade to the rimfire technologies base. i think midway has the tap and a drill bit kit on sale this month. good luck
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

Guys, you're great help! Great references! Thank you!

For an ignoramus - which diameter is larger: 8/32 or 8/40 (or are they both the same, differing in the fine-ness of the thread)?

How difficult is it to drill/bevel the screw holes and not damage their centering? I don't have a drill press - just a battery-powered drill...

THANKS!
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

Both are size #8 screws, one has 32 tpi(Threads per inch) and the other has 40tpi. You were right on the money. Been where your at, seems to me the "stainless" 10/22 receivers are softer than the regular alloy and that could just be my limited experience. I just know you can't tighten them up like on a 700.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

So the simplest for me is to both (a) drill & tap for 8/32 and (b) get & install Rimfire Technologies base to replace my EGW base?

Are you sure those 10/22 receivers are stainless? Feels like aluminum to me!
eek.gif


P.S. A horror thought - if this (ripping the base off the receiver, or - maybe even worse - damaging the alignment and thus destroying accuracy) could happen to a 22LR plinking rifle (i.e. the fall ripped the screws right off the receiver), can it happen to a bigger heavier rifle as well (or as bad
mad.gif
)? What would happen if my AICS/Rem 700 took a fall? With a heavier scope?
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

Hold off - maybe these will work:

Oversize screws

If you don't want to get the whole kit, order a pack of the screws that you need and the taper tap?

You want to use a fine-pitch screw, becuase the material is relatively thin, and you want as many threads as possible. If the oversize 6-48's won't work, next larger diameter is #8, so I'd go 8-40, not 8-32. The base holes will most likely need to be opened up, if you do this.

Factory Ruger 10-22 receivers are Aluminum, so thread carefully, with plenty of Al tapping fluid.

Good luck,

Bill
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

Thanks Bill!

Al tapping fluid - is it the same as drill oil, i.e. can they be interchanged? (I've got a can of drill oil, but not tapping fluid.)
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WRM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Factory Ruger 10-22 receivers are Aluminum, so thread carefully, with plenty of Al tapping fluid.</div></div>

+1

I believe all Ruger 10/22 receivers are aluminum, and the "stainless" ones are simply coated differently...
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

They make tapping fluid specifically for Aluminum, such as this:
http://www.tapmagic.com/TMaluminum.htm
Just make sure whatever you use is recommended for Aluminum....

There are aftermarket SS actions (Volquartsen, for example), but Rugers are Aluminum, with either back or silver finish applied, as noted above.

Cheers,

Bill
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

try this. take one screw out at a time. the other three will fit into the holes you have already for them. that will help you line the one at a time up. but remember, bigger screws=bigger holes in the base. just slightly, but 8/48 is bigger than the #6 that your replacing. look at how the heads of the screws fit into the base. they might fit in the holes, might not. you may be able to drill them out for the #8 screw heads. you may want to sell the base un-altered and get a RT base
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

When you are drilling and tapping your holes be sure to let the bit/tap pull itself into the hole. If you have to bare down on it much you're probably not straight. Also when your tapping make a couple turns in and back out a turn or so, this seems to clean the tap if it starts binding. Being aluminum it shouldnt be a big deal to weld up if you make a mistake, any local machine shop with a TIG setup can weld the holes up and you can try again, provided that you measure where they were or make some sort of pattern. Bottom line it shouldnt be a big deal, just poke some new holes and tap them out. I would recommend 8-40 as well, thats what most of the higher end scope mounting hardware is for big rifles.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can use wd40 as a cutting fluid for aluminum</div></div>
I've an almost-full can of DO-DRILL (from Brownells) left-over from revolver cyl reaming. Would that do in place of Tap Magic or WD40?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">be sure to let the bit/tap pull itself into the hole</div></div>
Thank you! Will be attentive to this.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

I've got the same problem with my 10/22. I'll be interested to know how this works out for you.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

There are two types of screw heads, Weaver Oval which has a rounded bottom head and Fillister which is flat. They do not inter-change. Gun screws and taps are finer thread for a reason. Buy the correct tools. These should be tapped on a mill or with a fixtue and drill press to keep everything centered and square. NO HAND DRILLS! Using common screws, the heads will not fit the base correctly. If you don't wnant to buy the correct tools, take it to a good gunsmith that has the correct clearance drills'
Tapping drills, taps, and screws. Along with a mill, fixtures or access to the correct tooling. If you are not looking for an accurate rifle, go with doing it without the proper tools.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

As a general rule-of-thumb, always use the coarse thread (8x32) in aluminum and the fine thread (8x36) in steel. The fine thread strips out too easy in aluminum. The coarse thread has more depth of thread. Both are pretty much the same O.D. and both use the same drill (#29) for the hole for a cutting tap.
Personally I always use a #30 drill as the recommended #29 only gives about 75% of thread engagement. It's a bit harder to cut the threads with a #30 so use a good tapping fluid but you get about 90% thread engagement.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

why couldn't you get the base welded on by an experienced welder? two full welds on the back and the front of the mount. and two tack welds on the sides in between scope rings. Correct me if i'm wrong.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

its cast and very thin, which id be afraid of the welding, even TIG, warping the surface or blowing thru. i could not find a helicoil listed for such thin metal.

the rimfire tech base comes with 8/40. the standard screws are fine thread also, and there are many many guys using hand tools and hand taps that upgrade to the RT base and do the tapping by hand with great success. taking a 10/22 to a smith for such a minor operation seems unneccessary. but whatever, your smith will thank you, lol. and if your not comfortable doing this, a smith would be best. i would do it myself. i would set the base with a light adheasive and use the holes as a guide after using a caliper to center it. but im spacial that way
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

You might even do a light scope base bedding job once you have got it fixed, that way if the holes are just a tiny bit out of square it would help the base have solid/complete contact. Personally I wouldnt be afraid to get it "Tig'ed" buy somebody that knows what they are doing, that is if the fix job goes kattywampus on you. You can do some amazing stuff welding aluminum, Ive done enough of it to really appreciate what can be done with a tig welder. If nothing else it might save you from having to get another reciever, once again that is if your new holes get all screwed up and just wont work. A good hot rod shop will have a guy in the back that everybody thinks is kinda strange, but knows his stuff when it comes to welding thin stuff cause he does all the sheet metal/aluminum work for high end cars. That is if there is one near you.
 
Re: Help! Stripped threads in Ruger 10/22 rcvr!

Update: went with Rimfire Technologies base, re-tapped the holes by hand for 8/40 (did a lousy job on the front-most hole above the barrel because I didn't remove it, the other three holes seem OK). Cleaned. Put some Blue Loctite on the base, and on the screws. Mounted the base. Let it dry, mounted the scope back.

Result very positive. It works, the scope holds its position and its zero. Chalk this off as a complete success.

Thanks to everybody who contributed good advice!!
 
I know this is an old thread. But
i would helicoil it to something common like 1/4 20