Hello all, I have a custom build that needs some type of padding for the cheek rest and butt stock. I used mouse pads before any better idea? What material? What adhesive? 
Help with cheek rest & Butt stock pad * Custom
- Thread starter Quickscope
- Start date
You can get a kydex sheet off ebay cheap and mold it to whatever cheek shape you like with a heat gun. Doesn´t ANY of the million of available buttpads fit? That ffwould be realy odd, just lok around for a while
http://i46.tinypic.com/oj1ok2.jpg
don't know how to link pics on the new forum, but this is my effort at a kydex cheekpiece. Real simple if you have any experience at using your hands for making anything.
don't know how to link pics on the new forum, but this is my effort at a kydex cheekpiece. Real simple if you have any experience at using your hands for making anything.
I know this is the DIY section, but I installed the Karsten piece, and couldn't be happier. They aren't that expensive either.
I got this http://www.m1surplus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=411 but it didnt have enough padding for my liking so I cut a 1" strip of ISO mat (OD green sleeping mat issued in the corps) and duct taped it to the stock. Then I put the cheek rest over the top so it looked like less of a hack job.
Do whatever, and dont fret when they stare, at least you understand the importance of proper cheek-weld
Happy shooting
Do whatever, and dont fret when they stare, at least you understand the importance of proper cheek-weld
Happy shooting
+1 one for the foam iso mat method. It's important to tape the foam pieces one at a time to the stock until you get that crosshair centered on your pupil. You want to tape it tight to compact the foam. I use camo form over the taped foam for grip. An ace bandage will work too. Moleskin absorbs a lot of dirt and muck in a short time. I'll never use it again. This works best with traditional stocks but you might still be able to make it work on yours.
your cheek piece looks a lot different than mine (McMillan A4 stock), but what I did was take one of the removable corners from my drag bag with that soft black material and wrap that around my cheek piece so it wouldn't be too hot anymore. poked holes in the sides and tied it in with 550 cord so it wont move much and the cord doesn't wrap around the top irritating my face.
Sleeping pad, glued with barge brand contact cement. Then cover it with thin leather. To stretch the leather to shape, use rubbing alcohol, and let it dry good before gluing. Do NOT use the new recipe for barge cement. They took the toluene that makes the cement stick so well out of the "new, improved" cement because the glue sniffers liked it so much. Leather stores usually have Barge, hardware stores often have a pretty good contact cement that works almost as well.
The Barge cement works FAR better if you let it dry to tacky on both sides before putting them together. (Don't tell anyone, but I actually read the instructions.)
The Barge cement works FAR better if you let it dry to tacky on both sides before putting them together. (Don't tell anyone, but I actually read the instructions.)
Last edited:
I use 1/8" textured ABS platic or Kydex to mold them, either way its best to make a jig that fits tightly over the stock with the desired material thickness taken into consideration. Kydex takes much more heat than ABS and has a broader temp range. ABS is cheaper but care must be taken, you dont want to get it above around 250 degrees. Either material works, heat the oven and put the plastic on a cookie sheet with some foil under it, let it get like taffy and quickly put it on the stock and force your jig over the top and hold until it cools, cut to shape and wet sand the edges. As far as padding, craft stores sell black closed cell foam in sheets from 1/16th to 1/4", contact cement will hold it for good.
A few pics of cheekpieces I have done recently, the first pic is using a jig and you can see how much more defined the lines follow the shape of the stock, bottom is just heated up and wrapped over the stock cheekweld area.
A few pics of cheekpieces I have done recently, the first pic is using a jig and you can see how much more defined the lines follow the shape of the stock, bottom is just heated up and wrapped over the stock cheekweld area.
My first cheek rest was a piece of 3in. white PVC pipe cut lenght way heated up and formed a little tighted than the stock. Then put some fome under it til I gotthe right height. Second one was Kydex that I made aform from a piece of 2x6, cut the Kydex in the shape I wanted and layed it on the form and turned the oven on to 250 and watched it til it started to soften. Then with oven mitts I pressed it to the sides of the 2x6. It comes out looking like the commercial ones for sale, drill some slots in both sides thentwo holes in the stock and yoy can lower it down to take the bolt out and raise it up to shoot.
Ive done this on 3 rifles so far. Just taken the cheek rest to the local rhino-liner (bedliner) shot on a day they are spraying the soft rubber liner. All three times (2 different shops) they do it in a few minutes and have charged me nothing.... Love the feel and it doesn't get hot at all compared the bare aluminum standard piece.
