Help with head space

clearform

Private
Minuteman
Nov 27, 2020
7
0
08060
Hi all,

I'm new here and have a question. I am assembling a .308 that I have been accumulating parts for a few years now. All parts are new. The barrel is an Anderson 20' .308 HBAR and the BCG is from Toolcraft. I removed the extractor and the ejector from the bolt, placed a factory round in the barrel and inserted the bolt and tried to rotate it. The bolt will not rotate. I don't have another BCG or barrel to see which is the problem. Is there any way to figure out what is the problem?
Thanks in advance!!
 
Did you install the barrel; or was it already installed in the action?
It might be better to use a Go gauge, instead of live ammunition.

I had purchased a new rifle last year that was having chambering issues. A local gunsmith was kind enough to offer to check with his gauge. The action would not close on the gauge, so I returned the rifle to the manufacturer for replacement.

If you are installing your own barrel, it may be worth picking up the .308 Go (and No Go) gauges. Not very expensive to order online.
 
Amazon

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..I would suggest you contact the barrel maker and ask what reamer they use, then purchase the GO, NO-GO gauges made by the same maker of the reamer. A large amount of the mass production industry uses PTG (Pacific Tool & Gauge) reamers, but again, ask your barrel manufacturer what they use then buy accordingly. Gauges can run approximately $30-40 per gauge, depending on source of purchase. Most offer "sets" of GO, NO-GO or GO, NO-GO and FIELD which lowers the individual gauge price a bit. IMHO, a set of GO, NO-GO is the minimum, FIELD would indicate it's still safe, but already on the way to not safe (erosion, depth over-reamed).
 
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Did you install the barrel; or was it already installed in the action?
It might be better to use a Go gauge, instead of live ammunition.

I had purchased a new rifle last year that was having chambering issues. A local gunsmith was kind enough to offer to check with his gauge. The action would not close on the gauge, so I returned the rifle to the manufacturer for replacement.

If you are installing your own barrel, it may be worth picking up the .308 Go (and No Go) gauges. Not very expensive to order online.
The barrel is not in the receiver. I'm ordering gauges.
 
..I would suggest you contact the barrel maker and ask what reamer they use, then purchase the GO, NO-GO gauges made by the same maker of the reamer. A large amount of the mass production industry uses PTG (Pacific Tool & Gauge) reamers, but again, ask your barrel manufacturer what they use then buy accordingly. Gauges can run approximately $30-40 per gauge, depending on source of purchase. Most offer "sets" of GO, NO-GO or GO, NO-GO and FIELD which lowers the individual gauge price a bit. IMHO, a set of GO, NO-GO is the minimum, FIELD would indicate it's still safe, but already on the way to not safe (erosion, depth over-reamed).
I emailed the manufacturer, auto replied they are so backed up it will be awhile before a response. I ordered some gauges.
 
Um, Ive never tried to close the bolt in that way.
It’s very possible that without the mechanical advantage of the camming action of the bolt in the action, you may not be able to close the bolt on a chambered round?
 
Have you tried bumping the shoulder until it rotates?

And your certain the head of the case is flat against the boltface?

You can leave the extractor in to make it easier to insert and remove the case.