Suppressors Help With My First Suppressor?

[XrayDoc88]

This may not be the most appropriate website for my questions (since I'm not sniping), but I know there is a lot of experience with suppressors here. I will soon have a Daniel Defense DDM4 PDW in 300 BLK. It has a 7" barrel. I would like to replace the included linear compensator with a quality suppressor. I've been trying to learn about suppressors and I'm currently considering the Daniel Defense DDWave, the Thunder Beast Ultra-7, the Dead Air Nomad-30, the Dead Air Nomad-Ti and even the Banish 30. Are these good choices? How important is the ability to clean the suppressor? Would you suggest a direct attachment or a quick detach mount? Please advise. I'm at your mercy.

Oh, I plan on sighting in the PDW with subsonic rounds. I noticed that the Thunder Beast Ultra-7 states 6" barrels for subsonic and 8" barrels for "full power". What happens when you shoot supersonic rounds in a 7" barrel if the suppressor is rated for 8"?

I basically need help.

 

[Smith1]

I can’t answer on those in particular, but a quick release is very handy if you’re going to be switching to multiple rifles. I have a chimera 300 now, but the dead airs I looked at were also very nice.

 

[clcustom1911]

Surefire SOCOM 300 SPS. Made specifically for 300blk, but will work on everything else as well, even up to 30 caliber magnum rifle rounds and 5.56.

 

[Smokin7s]

Dead airs are the shit I use one on my comp rifle and ars I have the sandman L but the shorter ones would be great for your application and still pretty quiet, plus everybody and their dog makes a qd mount for the sandman. The keymo mounting, no barrel length restrictions, and full auto rating helped make my decision. 2 of my buddies ordered the same van after using mine. We are big fans.

 

[Smokin7s]

Dead airs are the shit I use one on my comp rifle and ars I have the sandman L but the shorter ones would be great for your application and still pretty quiet, plus everybody and their dog makes a qd mount for the sandman. The keymo mounting, no barrel length restrictions, and full auto rating helped make my decision. 2 of my buddies ordered the same van after using mine. We are big fans.

Also I think direct threads are unnecessary with a lock up system as good as the keymo. And I just reread your post mine runs great on my 7inch 300 blk

 

[stello1001]

If you are considering Ultra 7 and Nomad30, also consider TBAC Dominus. Either way, it seems like your choices aren't bad. Good luck...

 

[KnowNothing256]

@TBACRAY Can you shed some light on the barrel length ratings?

 

[Ronin_64]

If you are going to be ripping through mags then might want to cross the Dead Air Nomad Ti off your short list per manufacturer.

 

[clcustom1911]

@TBACRAY Can you shed some light on the barrel length ratings?

Some suppressors have a minimum barrel length requirements due to pressure and temperature concerns with short barrel setups. The shorter they are, the more pressure and heat become an issue at the muzzle. Well-constructed cans can handle it.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Yeah, I should've clarified that for the OP, just thought he might appreciate getting feedback direct from the mfg, and probably didn't know he could hit 'em up. TBAC might also have a specific recommendation for the guy, but thanks for explaining, I should've in my post.

 

[FuhQ]

This may not be the most appropriate website for my questions (since I'm not sniping), but I know there is a lot of experience with suppressors here. I will soon have a Daniel Defense DDM4 PDW in 300 BLK. It has a 7" barrel. I would like to replace the included linear compensator with a quality suppressor. I've been trying to learn about suppressors and I'm currently considering the Daniel Defense DDWave, the Thunder Beast Ultra-7, the Dead Air Nomad-30, the Dead Air Nomad-Ti and even the Banish 30. Are these good choices? How important is the ability to clean the suppressor? Would you suggest a direct attachment or a quick detach mount? Please advise. I'm at your mercy.

Oh, I plan on sighting in the PDW with subsonic rounds. I noticed that the Thunder Beast Ultra-7 states 6" barrels for subsonic and 8" barrels for "full power". What happens when you shoot supersonic rounds in a 7" barrel if the suppressor is rated for 8"?

I basically need help.

You can't go wrong with Dead Air. Top-tier quality products, with support after the sale. I just bought my 3rd Dead Air can today.

If this is the only weapon you plan on shooting a suppressor on, then the Dead Air Nomad-30 with a KeyMo mount and KeyMount brake setup would be about perfect for your setup.

For a centerfire rifle suppressor, being able to service it and clean it is not a big deal. Typically they'll tell you to just shoot some supersonic ammo through it and it will burn-out the old carbon from subsonics.

For an AR, the Dead Air KeyMount flash hider or KeyMount muzzle brake would be ideal for quick-detach. It's what I would recommend.

If you don't follow barrel length restrictions, you can blow out your can...Then you have to wait to get it fixed after sending it back off to the manufacturer. I'd advise strongly to follow barrel length and firing-schedule guidelines. LUCKILY, if you go with the Dead Air Nomad-30, then you won't have to worry about barrel length restrictions or doing mag-dumps. It can handle it on a .300 BLK with supers and subs.

 

[FuhQ]

If you are going to be ripping through mags then might want to cross the Dead Air Nomad Ti off your short list per manufacturer.

I 2nd this... The Titanium cans just don't handle F/A fire very well. It's the nature of the beast. I ordered a Nomad-LT (Ti) can for my bolt-actions and precision rifles, but was going to double-duty it on my AR's. All of my AR's would be fine, but 1... I have a 7.5" 5.56 pistol, and the 5.56 in that short of a barrel is REALLY hard on a suppressor's baffles. Erosion starts VERY quickly. Which is why they recommend a can with 17-4 PH stainless or Stellite baffles for an SBR/pistol 5.56 with a barrel that's 10.5" or shorter. Which is why I ordered my Sandman-S today for hard-use because it's a 17-4 tube with Stellite baffles, and has NO barrel length restrictions for any cartridge, and is rated for full-auto up to .300 WinMag. The combo of materials that go into the Sandman series of cans are about the strongest combo of metals you can use in a suppressor next to marraiging alloy and inconel. If you want to buy a suppressor you will be hard-pressed to ever destroy, the Sandman-S or Sandman-L would be a good one.

Personally, I'm not big on "K" (Kurz, or short) cans because they just don't get the noise suppression of a can that is 6" or longer. To me, unless you're doing CQB, room clearing, guardian angel, or door-kicking type work, then the K-cans are kind of a waste (personal opinion) of a tax stamp and money. When you can get one that's a couple inches longer and get noticeably better sound suppression, and the cost is nearly the same, maybe $50-100 difference in the 2 cans.

 

[Reload10]

Tbac dominus is overkill if this is gong to be a dedicated host/can setup.

A cheaper rugged micro 30 would work with no barrel restrictions at all. Rugged makes good cans, I'd put them second after tbac

 

[XrayDoc88]

Thanks for all the replies. I feel smarter already. By blowing out a can, I guess that means eroding the baffles with heat and unburnt powder? I think I'll buy a can with no length restrictions since a 7" barrel is pretty short.

So I realize I don't understand a few more practical items.

1. I will probably just leave the can on the AR pistol the majority of the time. A direct attachment can would save a few oz. and perhaps an inch in length. Would you still recommend a QD mount?
2. With a direct attachment mount, do you just screw the can on hand tight, or do you add locktite?
3. What about cleaning your barrel? Is it OK to push and pull your cleaning rod with brass brush and push cleaning patches all the way through the can? Or do you like to always remove the can before cleaning a barrel? If yes, maybe a QD mount makes sense even if you're not transferring the can between different guns?

Thanks!

 

[clcustom1911]

QD mount is a solid route. The weight and length is negligible. The can fits over the mount, so you're not really adding length. Plus, if you wanna move the can from rifle to rifle, it should index at the same point on the mount on each rifle so your zero will have minimal shift when you take the can off and put it back on.

I personally take the can off for cleaning just because I don't want solvents building up in the baffles, etc.

 

[loveha]

Remove can for cleaning. Hand tight, no thread locker needed. I move my Sandman S between all my ARs with QD.

 

[Paqueo]

Cans should be removed from barrels ASAP after shooting. The water vapour from shooting condensate in the barrel and can after cooling down. You should allow moisture to leave the can and barrel to prevent rust.

 

[FuhQ]

Thanks for all the replies. I feel smarter already. By blowing out a can, I guess that means eroding the baffles with heat and unburnt powder? I think I'll buy a can with no length restrictions since a 7" barrel is pretty short.

So I realize I don't understand a few more practical items.

1. I will probably just leave the can on the AR pistol the majority of the time. A direct attachment can would save a few oz. and perhaps an inch in length. Would you still recommend a QD mount?
2. With a direct attachment mount, do you just screw the can on hand tight, or do you add locktite?
3. What about cleaning your barrel? Is it OK to push and pull your cleaning rod with brass brush and push cleaning patches all the way through the can? Or do you like to always remove the can before cleaning a barrel? If yes, maybe a QD mount makes sense even if you're not transferring the can between different guns?

Thanks!

Yes, and if you continue to get it heated up more, it can literally blow the baffle stack and end of the suppressor off the back-half of the blast baffle and mount...And downrange. Go to youtube you can find lots of videos of people doing destruction and heat tests on suppressors. It can be quite entertaining. Expensive if it happens to you, but entertaining as a spectator.

To your next Q's...

1.) For AR's I like a QD mount. The Dead Air KeyMounts have a big taper in them, that prevents carbon-lock and keeps carbon away from the locking lugs and away from the mounting surfaces and taper so it mounts nice and flat and straight every time. It also has a special 1-way on/off lug system that helps cut down on POI (Point Of Impact) shift when you remove the can, and then reinstall it. And their KeyMount brakes are 3-chamber brakes so when you're not running suppressed, it will help reduce recoil and keep your muzzle flat while shooting.

2.) Hand-tight only, just snug enough so it's not likely to work itself off, but check after every couple mags. Do NOT use loc-tite or rocksett! This is another reason why Dead Air's KeyMo QD mount is perfect, it's a ratchet system with a taper, so it's not very likely to ever come loose while shooting, unless something is bad wrong.

3.) Remove your suppressor before cleaning...ALWAYS. Another reason the QD makes more sense on an AR.

4.) For AR's the QD is the way to go. For bolt-action, precision target, and hunting rifles, where you will not be shooting rapid-fire sequences, and you want the most precision, and most repeatable and predictable POI shift... I prefer direct-thread.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Cans should be removed from barrels ASAP after shooting. The water vapour from shooting condensate in the barrel and can after cooling down. You should allow moisture to leave the can and barrel to prevent rust.

Not really a concern for titanium or stainless construction. Just letting the barrel/can cool with the muzzle up like normal is more than enough airflow to prevent this, even if the can was particularly susceptible to common corrosion, which almost none are.

 

[Swatman]

Lots of good info here. I would also take a look at the Silencerco Omega 30. Very good can and it comes with a QD and direct thread mount. Light and very durable. You can also use a 9mm can but only with subsonic ammo.
.

 

[jlm1216]

The can that I have that I switch hosts in is a silencerco octane 9. I use it on all of my 9mm pistols and my 300 blk “pistol”. Been a great can thus far.

 

[Paqueo]

Not really a concern for titanium or stainless construction. Just letting the barrel/can cool with the muzzle up like normal is more than enough airflow to prevent this, even if the can was particularly susceptible to common corrosion, which almost none are.

Mention it because saw several rust barrels due to supressors being kept on rifles after shooting. Not a problem for the cans but for the barrels.

 

[kthomas]

I'm more of a bolt gun guy, so my perspective comes as someone who mostly shoots bolt guns.

QD can be nice simply from the aspect that you remove the suppressor and there's still a muzzle device in place, rather then bare threads. Not a big deal for bolt guns (I mostly prefer direct thread there), but for hosts that will share a can and will not always be shot suppressed, having a muzzle device that stays in place is nice.

However, keep in mind that QD devices are not really anymore "QD" then a direct thread (really - it doesn't take long to turn a suppressor a few times). QD devices add more complexity and potential for failures in the system. There's been plenty of cans launched downrange due to user error when installing with a QD device. In my opinion, the Q Cherry Bomb is the most elegant "QD" mount out there, and is my pick if you decide to go QD. It's as simple as a direct thread (no potential can launching errors), and I think it was very clever of them to incorporate the taper before the threads. A lot of cans can be converted to what Q calls it's "Plan B" system which utilizes the Cherry Bomb mount.

Just some food for thought.

 

[SilencerCentral]

@XrayDoc88 Did you ever decide on a suppressor? You mentioned our BANISH 30 in your first post. We'd be happy to get you started with your purchase!