Help with my M48B Mauser

[DgV_7.62mm]

Hi I'm brand new to the site and need some direction. Bought this Yugo Mauser a few months back and I've been wanting to re-barrel it and drip it in a new stock, Boyd's or a McMillan. I'm on a budget and I've been searching all over the place for a one piece scope base so I can mount my SWFA 10x. The receiver was already tapped by the previous owner and the job seems pretty well done. Is there any company who I can custom order one from or are there already some available? I can provide pictures and measurements.

 

[Satterlee]

A few years back I built a couple Yugo's.
Murphy Precision made me (2) 20 moa rails for the project.
I re-machined the rear bridges on both receivers to remove the charger hump then drilled and tapped the receivers to 8x40 and also pinned the rails with 1/8 hardened dowel pins between each set of holes from and rear.
Since I did all the work I had prints of all the hole locations and front and rear bridge contour info which I forwarded to Murphy Precision so he could produce the rails.
Both went together without a hitch.
Going with a rail that's screwed and pinned will help with rigidity as well.

 

[DgV_7.62mm]

A few years back I built a couple Yugo's.
Murphy Precision made me (2) 20 moa rails for the project.
I re-machined the rear bridges on both receivers to remove the charger hump then drilled and tapped the receivers to 8x40 and also pinned the rails with 1/8 hardened dowel pins between each set of holes from and rear.
Since I did all the work I had prints of all the hole locations and front and rear bridge contour info which I forwarded to Murphy Precision so he could produce the rails.
Both went together without a hitch.
Going with a rail that's screwed and pinned will help with rigidity as well.

A few years back I built a couple Yugo's.
Murphy Precision made me (2) 20 moa rails for the project.
I re-machined the rear bridges on both receivers to remove the charger hump then drilled and tapped the receivers to 8x40 and also pinned the rails with 1/8 hardened dowel pins between each set of holes from and rear.
Since I did all the work I had prints of all the hole locations and front and rear bridge contour info which I forwarded to Murphy Precision so he could produce the rails.
Both went together without a hitch.
Going with a rail that's screwed and pinned will help with rigidity as well.

Thanks for the info. I'll be taking it to a good gunsmith within a week and I'll see what they can do. On a budget I can't afford to buy the equipment to do most of my own work yet, as I'm pretty fresh in the precision rifle world. As well as no experience in machining. Again, thanks.

 

[Satterlee]

I can help you.
satterleearmsrifles.com