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Help with reticle jump

Dildobaggins

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Minuteman
  • Jun 26, 2020
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    I bought a sightron 36x and my groups really opened up. I posted about this a few weeks ago and realized I need to work on my form and alot of other things.

    So I started dry firing. The past week I've probably dry fired at least 5k times. Using a sightron 36x. A Nikon 4-12, and an athlon Argos 6-24. Put all the scopes on two rifles. An AR 15, and a custom bolt action. More often than not I'm getting reticle jump. The reticle usually travels to the left maybe .25 moa or less at 50 yards. It's driving me crazy. I have a Caldwell track driver front bag, and a protektor read bag.

    I tried
    Using spent cases
    Tried putting the rifle on the bags and having zero pressure on the rifle and just pulling the trigger.
    Making sure parallax was where it needed to be.
    Just can't seem to get it not to jump.

    I have a bald eagle big fifty front rest coming soon. Perhaps that will help with the problem? Just at a loss. Any suggestions. Worried this will affect accuracy.
     
    I bought a sightron 36x and my groups really opened up. I posted about this a few weeks ago and realized I need to work on my form and alot of other things.

    So I started dry firing. The past week I've probably dry fired at least 5k times. Using a sightron 36x. A Nikon 4-12, and an athlon Argos 6-24. Put all the scopes on two rifles. An AR 15, and a custom bolt action. More often than not I'm getting reticle jump. The reticle usually travels to the left maybe .25 moa or less at 50 yards. It's driving me crazy. I have a Caldwell track driver front bag, and a protektor read bag.

    I tried
    Using spent cases
    Tried putting the rifle on the bags and having zero pressure on the rifle and just pulling the trigger.
    Making sure parallax was where it needed to be.
    Just can't seem to get it not to jump.

    I have a bald eagle big fifty front rest coming soon. Perhaps that will help with the problem? Just at a loss. Any suggestions. Worried this will affect accuracy.
    If is happening with multiple rifles and different scopes it's you. From the description of the movement likely you are hooking the trigger from the left rather than pressing straight back.
     
    If is happening with multiple rifles and different scopes it's you. From the description of the movement likely you are hooking the trigger from the left rather than pressing straight back.
    Good call. Thank you. I'll try being more aware of my placement and correct it.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: acudaowner
    that front bag probably doesnt help

    but there shouldn't be any reticle movement on dryfire

    a front rest, even a really cheap one, should help if that's the game you want to play
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Dildobaggins
    I bought a sightron 36x and my groups really opened up. I posted about this a few weeks ago and realized I need to work on my form and alot of other things.

    So I started dry firing. The past week I've probably dry fired at least 5k times. Using a sightron 36x. A Nikon 4-12, and an athlon Argos 6-24. Put all the scopes on two rifles. An AR 15, and a custom bolt action. More often than not I'm getting reticle jump. The reticle usually travels to the left maybe .25 moa or less at 50 yards. It's driving me crazy. I have a Caldwell track driver front bag, and a protektor read bag.

    I tried
    Using spent cases
    Tried putting the rifle on the bags and having zero pressure on the rifle and just pulling the trigger.
    Making sure parallax was where it needed to be.
    Just can't seem to get it not to jump.

    I have a bald eagle big fifty front rest coming soon. Perhaps that will help with the problem? Just at a loss. Any suggestions. Worried this will affect accuracy.
    I have been there and seen that as well, focus on the trigger press and all the fundamentals associated with it. Even good equipment will not completely hide a bad trigger press or poor fundamentals.

    Another suggestion, build the most stable position on the most stable barricade you can, best yet go prone. Hammer down on the trigger press until you have zero movement in the reticle then start building up, off the ground. And back off the magnification a bit.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Dildobaggins
    I have been there and seen that as well, focus on the trigger press and all the fundamentals associated with it. Even good equipment will not completely hide a bad trigger press or poor fundamentals.

    Another suggestion, build the most stable position on the most stable barricade you can, best yet go prone. Hammer down on the trigger press until you have zero movement in the reticle then start building up, off the ground. And back off the magnification a bit.
    I've been dry firing and pulling the trigger around 2-300 times a day. It is definitely getting better. I just have to take notes on what's happening when it doesn't do it and what I did wrong when it does. Ordered some snap caps as well. The front rest helps alot. I don't have to manipulate the firearm to get back on target. Just move the rest. Thanks for the info.
     
    This might help...I'm assuming you are right handed and pulling to the left, right?

    "Recovery from this horrible disease will not be easy. It will require hundreds of perfect presses." 🤣. Great article. Thank you!
     
    • Haha
    Reactions: Baron23
    I've had better luck on rifle than handgun, but a good drill is to set a timer/countdown (I learned this in handgun from jerking the trigger). Every count squeeze harder with the idea of going off on 5. In reality it will break early. By slowing down your squeeze you can help focus it toward the rear and not hit any overtravel into the gun.

    If you want start the count at 10. This exercise really helps tame trigger jerk/movement. You should be down to zero movement in good order.