How accurate can a Savage 10T-SR get

[MIlivinTX]

Okay I am looking for some advice here on my savage 10T-SR in 6.5 creedmoor it has an accu-stock. I am trying to get this gun to shoot tight groups or I should say as tight as possible. I am using H4350 and Hornday 140 ELD-M bullets. I am shooting what I can afford, so please don't recommend me buying a 3000 dollar rifle. I would like to get better at shooting 600 yards and if I can find a place to shoot a 1000 at I would like to try that also.

I am wondering what are something things I can do to tighten up the groups. I am getting between .75 and .50 at 100yards but not as consistently as I would like. I am playing with my reloading skills a bit. I am wondering would getting a chassis for it be worth the money, or should I go ez turner, or try a different bullet. Or no matter what I do would a .75 to .5 groups at 100 yards be as good as it gets. Looking for any advice or insight as to how accurate I can get or am I chasing my tail.

Thanks

 

[hafejd30]

How accurate can a Savage be?

Depends how far you are from the trash can when you throw it

 

[hafejd30]

From my experience a chassis would be the first step to improve the rifle itself

Optics would be another question. What are you currently using?

Some savage barrels are excellent. I had a 300 WM that was the most accurate factory I’ve seen yet. Sold to a buddy recently.

I’ve had Savage barrels that would throw the first shot or two then settle in. Have had some that fouled very quick. Some that shot .5-.75 and looked like drain pipe in the barrel. I’d say 3/10 factory barrels or so I’ve seen will hold an HONEST .5 moa. In my experience savage barrels hate to be cleaned and generally shoot better with a few rounds through them

Savage can be a money pit but I would start with a chassis if you want a better fit. Or at least properly torque the accustock and check the rear tang is floated

If your optic is solid next recommendation is a aftermarket barrel like a criterion. From my experience a savage action, criterion barrel and decent chassis (mdt/XLR/Mcree) will result in a accurate .5 moa setup. Pending the shooter/optic can do the part

 

[MIlivinTX]

From my experience a chassis would be the first step to improve the rifle itself

Optics would be another question. What are you currently using?

Some savage barrels are excellent. I had a 300 WM that was the most accurate factory I’ve seen yet. Sold to a buddy recently.

I’ve had Savage barrels that would throw the first shot or two then settle in. Have had some that fouled very quick. Some that shot .5-.75 and looked like drain pipe in the barrel. I’d say 3/10 factory barrels or so I’ve seen will hold an HONEST .5 moa. In my experience savage barrels hate to be cleaned and generally shoot better with a few rounds through them

Savage can be a money pit but I would start with a chassis if you want a better fit. Or at least properly torque the accustock and check the rear tang is floated

If your optic is solid next recommendation is a aftermarket barrel like a criterion. From my experience a savage action, criterion barrel and decent chassis (mdt/XLR/Mcree) will result in a accurate .5 moa setup. Pending the shooter/optic can do the part

Thanks for the advice. I have been using a vortex diamond back tactical 6-24x50 but I just upgraded the new strike eagle version 6-25X56 with 34 mm tube. Which vortex for my purpose recommend and said this would be a great upgrade. I have been debating and trying to figure out if something like a boyds stock would be the way to go or a MDT chassis system. Your advice is helpful. Thanks

 

[Gohring65]

Getting a chassis and adjusting the length of pull and cheek weld to fit you is the best upgrade you can do.

 

[jbuck88]

I think that savage could be as accurate as you are. I have see them shoot as good as I can, 1/2moa or so.

Accuracy is a result of the gun and your interactions with it. I've had savages that were more accurate then I am, or slightly less.

In the end, I've rarely seen a savage not be as capable as the trigger puller.

 

[Average guy]

A chassis can definitely help if you have a bedding issue. Before changing over I’d trying torque tuning in the stock you have. There are videos on how to do this. Maybe try a few different bullets, some barrels definitely have a preference. Another suggestion would be to work on technique. The online training is worth the money spent. A savage can be a great learning rifle, but they can also be a money pit. I’m hesitant to do much in the way of big dollar upgrades, unless I have no intention of getting my money back out of it.

 

[Cobiwan]

You could try a Cortina tuner brake to see if you can help with your barrel harmonics.

 

[hafejd30]

Thanks for the advice. I have been using a vortex diamond back tactical 6-24x50 but I just upgraded the new strike eagle version 6-25X56 with 34 mm tube. Which vortex for my purpose recommend and said this would be a great upgrade. I have been debating and trying to figure out if something like a boyds stock would be the way to go or a MDT chassis system. Your advice is helpful. Thanks

Get a chassis. Or stock with a aluminum bedding block. HS precision take off stocks work good. I’ve had both HS versions that came on the savages in the past. Along with several choate models and bell and Carlson. Even the cheapest mdt chassis will be a better fit than the accustock. My 110 FCP HS Precision had a MDT ESS. But shot equally well with the HS precision it came with.

That and a 12 FVSS were the only factory barrels I’d call a true 1/2 moa. I’ve seen plenty shoot 1/2 moa. But doing it repeatedly, clean or dirty, hot or cold is another story with factory barrels. At least it was years ago when I played in the savage world.

I know they’ve gotten a lot more expensive since I last purchased them. I still have several. My 260 is one of my most accurate guns I own. But the only thing savage on that is the action

 

[JaoeyP]

Savages can be very precise. Most of our disdain for them comes from clunky bolts that tend to struggle to keep up with the feeding demands in a match. Can be great guns to tinker with.

So let's start with your reloading skills. What have you done so far to tinker? Have you done a Saterlee test or similar to determine your charge weight? Once you've done that have you done tests for seating depth?

If you're consistently getting .75" groups or better from a factory rifle you're not doing top bad already.

 

[spife7980]

For as cheap as possible just get some kiwi shoe polish and a tube of jb weld and bed it yourself.