hello, can anyone tell me please what on earth that is . and if it is a thing where someone may get one ?
Gunsmithing how do you get an inlet patters for an action ?
- Thread starter acudaowner
- Start date
I just use the donor action, some calipers and some pencil and paper to find numbers I search for on my mill's digital readout.
It is a "thing". It's the mating shape to an action, to allow the action to be fitted into a stock. It's the shape of the action, holes for action screws, and bottom metal if a removable magazine is being used. Think of a chamber being an inlet pattern for a cartridge.
I'm not aware of a published library of inlet patterns, usually a measurements are taken from the action itself. If the action is to be bedded, the pattern doesn't have to be a perfect fit, the bedding material creates the final fit.
What is it you are trying to do that you need an inlet pattern? For which action?
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I am guessing that means i would have to buy the items for an unknown stock hope it all fits then make my own template of send it to the stock maker yea , but at least its more of an idea than I had before than you . I just have to hope the stock maker will cut the butt stock and not touch the front .till i can find someone in the states that could or will fit the parts in .
I've been doing this very thing since 1999. I began with calipers, paper, pencil, and a Bridgeport. It's now progressed to fully computer modeled receivers that are then mirrored into inlets machined on a 4 axis cnc milling center.
I'd be willing to bet we (LRI) has one of the most extensive libraries ever compiled for this stuff. It's not however information that gets shared publicly. There's just too much work/expense involved.
I'll offer this though:
M700 type actions. A true M700 SA has a center to center guard screw distance of 6.495". Most "clones" just bump it to 6.500". LA M700's are 7.3450".
Locating receivers: There's two methods I use. In a Palma type stock where the tang area of the is basically like a 2x4, you drive the entire setup based on where you want the trigger placed. There's no real wrong answer here. Guys with "Edward Scissor hand" fingers will want it further from the grip. Short, fat fingered folk need it closer.
On a more traditional stock, it's a little more work, but not bad. Here's how I do that:
Measure most M700/clone actions on the diameter and they come out to 1.350" (or very close to it.) Take the radius of this and you get .675". With calipers measure the thickness of the tang at its rearmost point. A factory M700 is at .075". Now a little math. Radius (.675") minus tang thickness (.075") equals "drop from showline".
In this case, .600" is the solution. Now, what to do with that?
On a stock like the McMillan M40 or a Manner's T4 (basically anything setup for a 700/clone) the draft angle of the tang feature is cast in the stock so that they match. (for the most part)
All you do is this: Take a drill, edge finder, basically anything. Touch off on the top side of the stock's showline. Now zero the Z axis on your DRO. Pick up your "stylus" and move to the valley like gap behind the tang, but ahead of the cheek piece. Next, drop your Z to the -.600" height. Now slowly move the stock until the stylus just makes contact with the tang feature. If your using an edge finder, be sure to comp for the radius. Assuming you do this correctly, you now know where the action wants to sit in the stock. Assuming the stock manufacturer did the design correctly, the trigger shoe will position at an appropriate distance for most shooters in relation to the grip. "Gorillas and Pygmys" may require some fudging too/from, but there is a ceiling to this. Go too far forward and you bury the tang inside the stock. Come too far back and it's going to act like a diving board at a swimming pool.
This method puts the tang flush to the stockline with the action sitting on center in relation to the showline. Most out of the box inlets have the tang sitting proud and the action sitting just over center. This is likely to make it easier to pull them apart after bedding as there's very little risk of it going too deep and becoming captured by resin on the showline.
I generally like to keep them maybe .005" to .015" over just for this reason. Much easier to pop them apart and you'll never notice it once completed.
Hope this helps.
C.
Example:
I'd be willing to bet we (LRI) has one of the most extensive libraries ever compiled for this stuff. It's not however information that gets shared publicly. There's just too much work/expense involved.
I'll offer this though:
M700 type actions. A true M700 SA has a center to center guard screw distance of 6.495". Most "clones" just bump it to 6.500". LA M700's are 7.3450".
Locating receivers: There's two methods I use. In a Palma type stock where the tang area of the is basically like a 2x4, you drive the entire setup based on where you want the trigger placed. There's no real wrong answer here. Guys with "Edward Scissor hand" fingers will want it further from the grip. Short, fat fingered folk need it closer.
On a more traditional stock, it's a little more work, but not bad. Here's how I do that:
Measure most M700/clone actions on the diameter and they come out to 1.350" (or very close to it.) Take the radius of this and you get .675". With calipers measure the thickness of the tang at its rearmost point. A factory M700 is at .075". Now a little math. Radius (.675") minus tang thickness (.075") equals "drop from showline".
In this case, .600" is the solution. Now, what to do with that?
On a stock like the McMillan M40 or a Manner's T4 (basically anything setup for a 700/clone) the draft angle of the tang feature is cast in the stock so that they match. (for the most part)
All you do is this: Take a drill, edge finder, basically anything. Touch off on the top side of the stock's showline. Now zero the Z axis on your DRO. Pick up your "stylus" and move to the valley like gap behind the tang, but ahead of the cheek piece. Next, drop your Z to the -.600" height. Now slowly move the stock until the stylus just makes contact with the tang feature. If your using an edge finder, be sure to comp for the radius. Assuming you do this correctly, you now know where the action wants to sit in the stock. Assuming the stock manufacturer did the design correctly, the trigger shoe will position at an appropriate distance for most shooters in relation to the grip. "Gorillas and Pygmys" may require some fudging too/from, but there is a ceiling to this. Go too far forward and you bury the tang inside the stock. Come too far back and it's going to act like a diving board at a swimming pool.
This method puts the tang flush to the stockline with the action sitting on center in relation to the showline. Most out of the box inlets have the tang sitting proud and the action sitting just over center. This is likely to make it easier to pull them apart after bedding as there's very little risk of it going too deep and becoming captured by resin on the showline.
I generally like to keep them maybe .005" to .015" over just for this reason. Much easier to pop them apart and you'll never notice it once completed.
Hope this helps.
C.
Example:
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There used to be such a thing....when there were stockmakes and wood stocks. Mostly useful for bottom metal, it was just a paper outline you could trace or glue to the wood. Now you just hog out the insides and fill with bedding compound and drop the action with pillars attached into it. No skill required for synthetic stocks. Still need some care with wood stocks if you want it to look good.
