I'm trying to load for .223 in my hornady lnl ap. The first station is the full sizing die. This requires lube to do a fl sizing. After sizing it will go through the rest of the stations to form a complete cartridge. The complete cartridge is full of lube and in the process spread that lube throughout all the other dies. This doesnt sound like the way it should be at all.
- Thread starter Nessal
- Start date
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
they make carbide dies from dillon. Never tried them. I size and do all the prep work for my precision ammo before going throught he progresive press (dillon 650). If I use it. I usually don't use it for my good ammo. Just plinking stuff. This is why I always suggest a good single stage press for anyones first press.
The 650 gets used for plinking and pistol ammo.
they make carbide dies from dillon. Never tried them. I size and do all the prep work for my precision ammo before going throught he progresive press (dillon 650). If I use it. I usually don't use it for my good ammo. Just plinking stuff. This is why I always suggest a good single stage press for anyones first press.
The 650 gets used for plinking and pistol ammo.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm trying to load for .223 in my hornady lnl ap. The first station is the full sizing die. This requires lube to do a fl sizing. After sizing it will go through the rest of the stations to form a complete cartridge. The complete cartridge is full of lube and in the process spread that lube throughout all the other dies. This doesnt sound like the way it should be at all. </div></div>
Carbide rifle dies still require lube, so let's get that out of the way first. They are carbide to aid in longevity, not case sizing.
Secondly, you can use an inert lube, like Hornady's One Shot, which won't react with primers or propellant and doesn't need to be wiped off.
Thirdly, when loading bottle neck cartridges, most people use their progressive presses in a 'single stage', or semi-progressive manner.
This is to say that we'll do the lubing, sizing and depriming in one step, then we'll tumble the lube off and trim our cases, if need be.
We'll then prime, charge and seat the bullet at another point in time.
For cranking out the zombie ammo where you KNOW you won't have to trim your cases, you can use the spray on One Shot and not really worry about mucking things up.
Remember, you'll want to lube the inside of your case necks to keep from stretching those necks with your expander ball.
There are tricks we use to get around this, with TiNi coated neck bushings and carbide (or no) expander balls, but that's a post for another day.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm trying to load for .223 in my hornady lnl ap. The first station is the full sizing die. This requires lube to do a fl sizing. After sizing it will go through the rest of the stations to form a complete cartridge. The complete cartridge is full of lube and in the process spread that lube throughout all the other dies. This doesnt sound like the way it should be at all. </div></div>
Carbide rifle dies still require lube, so let's get that out of the way first. They are carbide to aid in longevity, not case sizing.
Secondly, you can use an inert lube, like Hornady's One Shot, which won't react with primers or propellant and doesn't need to be wiped off.
Thirdly, when loading bottle neck cartridges, most people use their progressive presses in a 'single stage', or semi-progressive manner.
This is to say that we'll do the lubing, sizing and depriming in one step, then we'll tumble the lube off and trim our cases, if need be.
We'll then prime, charge and seat the bullet at another point in time.
For cranking out the zombie ammo where you KNOW you won't have to trim your cases, you can use the spray on One Shot and not really worry about mucking things up.
Remember, you'll want to lube the inside of your case necks to keep from stretching those necks with your expander ball.
There are tricks we use to get around this, with TiNi coated neck bushings and carbide (or no) expander balls, but that's a post for another day.
Chris
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I've loaded thousands of rounds of .308 and 5.56 progressively through my Dillon 550B, mostly for shooting in NRA Highpower competition and practice. I use RCBS spray lube, Dillon spray lube, Hornady One Shot, and Midway USA spray lube and can't find any evidence that the leaving the lube on through the progressive loader had any negative effects. I've made Master at Highpower and Long Range and any points I dropped were because of my skill, not the rifle or ammo. I also use RCBS X Dies for resizing which limits case length growth and therefore limits the need to trim. After my batch of cases is resized and trimmed, I can load at least 5 loadings progressively without another trimming.
I've loaded thousands of rounds of .308 and 5.56 progressively through my Dillon 550B, mostly for shooting in NRA Highpower competition and practice. I use RCBS spray lube, Dillon spray lube, Hornady One Shot, and Midway USA spray lube and can't find any evidence that the leaving the lube on through the progressive loader had any negative effects. I've made Master at Highpower and Long Range and any points I dropped were because of my skill, not the rifle or ammo. I also use RCBS X Dies for resizing which limits case length growth and therefore limits the need to trim. After my batch of cases is resized and trimmed, I can load at least 5 loadings progressively without another trimming.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the rcbs lube pad and the lube that came with it. The lube is super thick. Wouldnt it foul up the chamber if i leave it on there? </div></div>
Did you get a reloading manual with your press?
There's a 'how to' section that will explain the steps to you. You might want to cease and desist for a stretch and read and then reread the book a couple of times.
There's a Reloading 101/201 sticky at the top of this board, if you want to read there, as well.
You seem to be confused a bit.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the rcbs lube pad and the lube that came with it. The lube is super thick. Wouldnt it foul up the chamber if i leave it on there? </div></div>
Did you get a reloading manual with your press?
There's a 'how to' section that will explain the steps to you. You might want to cease and desist for a stretch and read and then reread the book a couple of times.
There's a Reloading 101/201 sticky at the top of this board, if you want to read there, as well.
You seem to be confused a bit.
Chris
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I found a thread on brianenos.com and spoke to a Dillon rep at a show once about this exact issue. My research concluded what others have posted but basically have 2 tool heads. Use the case feeder and deprime/resize lubed cases. Then take the resulting box and tumble, trim and anything else you would do. Then, chuck 'em back into the case feeder, put your other tool head in run a universal deprimer (to make sure there is no media in the flash hole) and seat a primer, powder it, seat a bullet.
That's how I was planning on doing it. Also, for trimmer I'm going to get the Giraud trimmer so I can use it for my .308 and any other cartridge I do my "precision" loading.
I found a thread on brianenos.com and spoke to a Dillon rep at a show once about this exact issue. My research concluded what others have posted but basically have 2 tool heads. Use the case feeder and deprime/resize lubed cases. Then take the resulting box and tumble, trim and anything else you would do. Then, chuck 'em back into the case feeder, put your other tool head in run a universal deprimer (to make sure there is no media in the flash hole) and seat a primer, powder it, seat a bullet.
That's how I was planning on doing it. Also, for trimmer I'm going to get the Giraud trimmer so I can use it for my .308 and any other cartridge I do my "precision" loading.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
2 solutions:
1. When reloading for an AR15. My process is like this..tumble,FL resize using a small base die on my Redding T-7, tumble again to remove the lube, trim on the Giraud. The I feed the processed brass into the waiting Dillon 550. Great ammo in a short period of time.
2. Using Dillon Spray on lube, I run everything through the dillon and just tumble the loaded ammo when its done. Press requires cleaning--probably needed a detail cleaning by now anyhow.
YMMV
2 solutions:
1. When reloading for an AR15. My process is like this..tumble,FL resize using a small base die on my Redding T-7, tumble again to remove the lube, trim on the Giraud. The I feed the processed brass into the waiting Dillon 550. Great ammo in a short period of time.
2. Using Dillon Spray on lube, I run everything through the dillon and just tumble the loaded ammo when its done. Press requires cleaning--probably needed a detail cleaning by now anyhow.
YMMV
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I use RCBS Water Soluble Lube. A few drops on the left finger tips, grasp case by neck with right hand and twirl the case sidewall between lubed finger tips. As the case emerges primed, I extract it from the Dillon's resizing station, give it a quick wipe with an alcohol damp cloth, and it's literally sqeaky clean. I resize all the cases in a single stage, then wipe them all at once, and then resume the progressive loading at the powder station. Doing it this way also gives the opportunity to check charge weights before proceding progressive to the seater.
I use RCBS Water Soluble Lube. A few drops on the left finger tips, grasp case by neck with right hand and twirl the case sidewall between lubed finger tips. As the case emerges primed, I extract it from the Dillon's resizing station, give it a quick wipe with an alcohol damp cloth, and it's literally sqeaky clean. I resize all the cases in a single stage, then wipe them all at once, and then resume the progressive loading at the powder station. Doing it this way also gives the opportunity to check charge weights before proceding progressive to the seater.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
For AR15 bulk ammo I FL resize all the brass through the press, run it in the SS media to get it squeaky clean and then load it. No mess at all then and the stuff doesn't need any other work before going into an ammo can and shoved under the bench for use later.
Pistol ammo runs through the universal decap die and then SS media. Then once it's cleaned it goes through the carbide sizing die, prime, flare, powder, bullet, taper/roll crimp and into the bin. No mess and 500-600rd an hour for 9/40/10mm/38/357/44's
Precision rifle ammo gets neck sized and decapped via the press and then SS'd, back through to prime only then into a labeled bag for single stage loading when needed.
For AR15 bulk ammo I FL resize all the brass through the press, run it in the SS media to get it squeaky clean and then load it. No mess at all then and the stuff doesn't need any other work before going into an ammo can and shoved under the bench for use later.
Pistol ammo runs through the universal decap die and then SS media. Then once it's cleaned it goes through the carbide sizing die, prime, flare, powder, bullet, taper/roll crimp and into the bin. No mess and 500-600rd an hour for 9/40/10mm/38/357/44's
Precision rifle ammo gets neck sized and decapped via the press and then SS'd, back through to prime only then into a labeled bag for single stage loading when needed.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I use the RCBS water soluble lube as well but I make my own spray lube. I use 1 quart of 97% Isopropyl alchohol from Wal-mart and add a full bottle of the RCBS lube. Put in small spray bottle and still only used half I made a couple of years ago. Put cases in plastic shoe boxes and spray a few squirts and shake and then leave lid off to let the alchohol evaporate. Run 3000 .223 thru the RCBS Pro 2000 at a time, then it just takes a cloth damp with water to wipe off the cases after loading.
Tried the Hornady one shot but after 10-12 stuck cases I shot the can. If you use the water based lube and you have used another type such as the Dillon spray on, then you must clean the dies very well first. I use carburetor cleaner, then take a cotton swab and wipe some of the un-cut water soluble lube inside the dies. Then you won't have a problem from that point forward.
I use the RCBS water soluble lube as well but I make my own spray lube. I use 1 quart of 97% Isopropyl alchohol from Wal-mart and add a full bottle of the RCBS lube. Put in small spray bottle and still only used half I made a couple of years ago. Put cases in plastic shoe boxes and spray a few squirts and shake and then leave lid off to let the alchohol evaporate. Run 3000 .223 thru the RCBS Pro 2000 at a time, then it just takes a cloth damp with water to wipe off the cases after loading.
Tried the Hornady one shot but after 10-12 stuck cases I shot the can. If you use the water based lube and you have used another type such as the Dillon spray on, then you must clean the dies very well first. I use carburetor cleaner, then take a cotton swab and wipe some of the un-cut water soluble lube inside the dies. Then you won't have a problem from that point forward.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Secondly, you can use an inert lube, like Hornady's One Shot, which won't react with primers or propellant and doesn't need to be wiped off.
</div></div>
There you go. Put the One Shot on the cases and let them set for atleast a minute to allow the propellent to evaporate and they won't get stuck. Have used it with thousands of rounds and never had one stick.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Secondly, you can use an inert lube, like Hornady's One Shot, which won't react with primers or propellant and doesn't need to be wiped off.
</div></div>
There you go. Put the One Shot on the cases and let them set for atleast a minute to allow the propellent to evaporate and they won't get stuck. Have used it with thousands of rounds and never had one stick.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
Yes, I strip and clean my sizer die immediately after finishing with sizing. The first case through it after that can benefit from an extra bit of lube.
Yes, I strip and clean my sizer die immediately after finishing with sizing. The first case through it after that can benefit from an extra bit of lube.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I use both Dillon and Midway spay lube and haven't noticed any lube migration to other dies.
I use both Dillon and Midway spay lube and haven't noticed any lube migration to other dies.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
Ditto on what Rob01 said. Let the One Shot propelant evaporate for a minute or so and it works great. Thousands also loaded here trouble free.
Ditto on what Rob01 said. Let the One Shot propelant evaporate for a minute or so and it works great. Thousands also loaded here trouble free.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
I use Dillon spray lube when I size rifle cases. Put the brass in a shallow cardboard box, just one layer of brass, spray the brass and shake the box to roll the brass around, give it another quick spray, and your ready to size. I haven't had any issues with the lube contaminating other dies. After the brass is loaded I tumble it in a Dillon case cleaner with corn cob media to clean the lube off.
I use Dillon spray lube when I size rifle cases. Put the brass in a shallow cardboard box, just one layer of brass, spray the brass and shake the box to roll the brass around, give it another quick spray, and your ready to size. I haven't had any issues with the lube contaminating other dies. After the brass is loaded I tumble it in a Dillon case cleaner with corn cob media to clean the lube off.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hogshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-size: 11pt">Ditto on what Rob01 said. Let the One Shot propelant evaporate for a minute or so and it works great. Thousands also loaded here trouble free.</span> </div></div>
I think that in the interest of fair play, this needs to be stated again, as One Shot has the dubious reputation of being the lube with the most stuck cases in the history of all mankind.
If you follow the simple instructions, of letting it sit for one minute and you move quickly thereafter, you'll be fine.
It is expensive and a can doesn't go too far, but it does cut down on lubing and delubing.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hogshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-size: 11pt">Ditto on what Rob01 said. Let the One Shot propelant evaporate for a minute or so and it works great. Thousands also loaded here trouble free.</span> </div></div>
I think that in the interest of fair play, this needs to be stated again, as One Shot has the dubious reputation of being the lube with the most stuck cases in the history of all mankind.
If you follow the simple instructions, of letting it sit for one minute and you move quickly thereafter, you'll be fine.
It is expensive and a can doesn't go too far, but it does cut down on lubing and delubing.
Chris
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the rcbs lube pad and the lube that came with it. The lube is super thick. Wouldnt it foul up the chamber if i leave it on there? </div></div>
If you mean the chamber of your rifle, it's time to stop and take a deep breath and read what has been posted.
ONLY Hornady One-Shot spray case lube has been presented as a "no cleaning necessary" option. In my experience, it degrades in our atmosphere to leave a sort of a high-traction film on the cases, which I don't like. I clear the stuff off every output bin of ammo by placing it on a nasty stained but WASHED shop towel (former bath towel) and spray it with carb cleaner. Cleans up much faster than any other lube.
No one has suggested that a roll-on lube or a more "thick" traditional spray lube should be/could be just left on the cases.
If, on the other hand, you mean the "chambers" of the other two or three dies, take a different type of break and deep breath, and getcha some more book lernin' before you hurt yourself.
Book lernin' includes posting these questions and getting beat up just a little bit. I happen to totally respect questions like "book X sez this, but whatzit really mean?"
In .45 ACP with lead bullets, my problem is lube migration from the bullet lube (traditional 50/50 Alox/Beeswax formula). I have to swab out the seater die every 200-400 rounds or so. It's just part of the price I pay for using something that *really* works to reduce leading and make barrel cleanup 10x as easy as those 9mm lead loads. Literally a 90-second job, once or twice an hour if I'm doing that much in one sitting.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nessal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use the rcbs lube pad and the lube that came with it. The lube is super thick. Wouldnt it foul up the chamber if i leave it on there? </div></div>
If you mean the chamber of your rifle, it's time to stop and take a deep breath and read what has been posted.
ONLY Hornady One-Shot spray case lube has been presented as a "no cleaning necessary" option. In my experience, it degrades in our atmosphere to leave a sort of a high-traction film on the cases, which I don't like. I clear the stuff off every output bin of ammo by placing it on a nasty stained but WASHED shop towel (former bath towel) and spray it with carb cleaner. Cleans up much faster than any other lube.
No one has suggested that a roll-on lube or a more "thick" traditional spray lube should be/could be just left on the cases.
If, on the other hand, you mean the "chambers" of the other two or three dies, take a different type of break and deep breath, and getcha some more book lernin' before you hurt yourself.
Book lernin' includes posting these questions and getting beat up just a little bit. I happen to totally respect questions like "book X sez this, but whatzit really mean?"
In .45 ACP with lead bullets, my problem is lube migration from the bullet lube (traditional 50/50 Alox/Beeswax formula). I have to swab out the seater die every 200-400 rounds or so. It's just part of the price I pay for using something that *really* works to reduce leading and make barrel cleanup 10x as easy as those 9mm lead loads. Literally a 90-second job, once or twice an hour if I'm doing that much in one sitting.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
Another for Dillon spray lube, just wipe it off after resizing. Better to use lube than to get casing stuck in resizer. Don't know of any ill effect on getting lube on the other press parts, except that it may attract or adhere debris...but then just wipe it off.
Another for Dillon spray lube, just wipe it off after resizing. Better to use lube than to get casing stuck in resizer. Don't know of any ill effect on getting lube on the other press parts, except that it may attract or adhere debris...but then just wipe it off.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
the one shot works well for us,i had one problem in the beginning from not letting the lube dry,and the next problem came after we had sprayed more casings than we had time to size,a few days later came back to the bench and noticed that there was some difficulty in sizing the first couple . third one stuck. after using the one shot for a while now it seems that it is our preference.
the one shot works well for us,i had one problem in the beginning from not letting the lube dry,and the next problem came after we had sprayed more casings than we had time to size,a few days later came back to the bench and noticed that there was some difficulty in sizing the first couple . third one stuck. after using the one shot for a while now it seems that it is our preference.
Re: How do you resize without lube on a progressive?
Yeah on the time window on One Shot. I use it on deprimed cases that have spent quality time in the tumbler with SS media. I vibe clean all loaded rounds with untreated walnut w/a little odorless mineral spirits. Minimal effort, and such shiny rounds!
Yeah on the time window on One Shot. I use it on deprimed cases that have spent quality time in the tumbler with SS media. I vibe clean all loaded rounds with untreated walnut w/a little odorless mineral spirits. Minimal effort, and such shiny rounds!
